My Kangoo Cup Dci Build Thread

[ashleyt33]

Right folks! Again a load of progress today, which is nice........

Engine loom totally out the car now.

Engine Loom by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Also managed to get the damn interior loom out after finishing stripping the rest of the rear of the car.

Interior loom by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

So a few pics of the donor as it stands at the moment.

Front Stripped by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Rear Stripped by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

To keep the donor rolling I fitted the std kangoo lower arms, hubs and dampers and dropped it back on the wheels it came on, should help me move it into the barn a little easier.

 

[ashleyt33]

We started doing some stripping on the engine side of things today to.

Removed fuel pump and sender.
Removed pedal box with master cylinder and servo.
Removed the gearbox and starter.
Removed alternator.
Removed aircon pump.
Removed water pump.
Removed P/S pump.

I refurbished a few of the pulleys so everything looks nice and clean, and blew over them with etch and a coat of satin black.
Then we attacked the block with a wire wheel on the air die grinder to clean things up.

I collected a pile of parts today ready to go on:
Cambelt kit with tensioners.
Aux belt kit with tensioners.
Thermostat.
Water pump.
Engine oil.
Coolant.
Power steering fluid.
Gearbox oil.
Brake fluid.

I am taking the engine over to Mick at Diamond Motors in Nottingham first thing tomorrow morning and he is doing me a SUPER SOLID by fitting me a new dephaser, the timing belt kit, new crank bolts, dephaser bolts, cam seals and dephaser seals, so the engine should be in top form by lunch tomorrow

When we get back, its time to shift the donor and start stripping the Kangoo.................

 

[ashleyt33]

Also nipped to Clio Spares to pick up a std top engine mount for the time being as the donor mount is pap. Will replace with a full set of Ktec mounts when I know its all in and working.

 

[barnesautos]

Very nice progress (subscribed)

 

[ashleyt33]

So I think the wiring loom should drop in seen as I am going to convert the dash in the kangoo over to the phase 1 clio 172 dash. Only issue i can see may be the heater box, but it will get to that when the kangoo dash is out.

As far as the rest of the interior wiring loom is concerned, I think will have to splice in the following to the kangoo loom:
Interior light
Both rear light clusters
Number plate lights
Heated rear screen (might leave this as I am gonna replace with some polycarbonate windows from work)
Rear door lock servo
Side loading door servo, parallel wired to the rear door servo

From a mechanical point of view, the engine and box swap is more or less sorted. Going to have to drill the subframe so I can locate the 172 4th mount, and the exhaust could be a pain in the ass.

The Kangoo exhaust exits on the drivers side unlike the clios. I am going to be using a Ktec side exit from a 5 turbo to keep the exhaust as simple as possible, but cannot find a 172 decat pipe anywhere except Ktec, and I am not paying that kind of money just so I can mate the 2.5" sleeve of a side exit onto a decat pipe with the middle section flange removed, so if anyone has a 172 decat knocking around PM me!! Using the side exit has a few benefits from my point of view, ease of route as it will sit just nice in the tunnel the std exhaust ran in and there is a nice gap that it can run across as it exits just under the rear edge of the side door, and its 2.5" bore will come in handy for any future plans.

I am not 100% sure what will happen when I come to fit the 172 fuel pump and sender in the kangoo tank, hoping at worst that I can just fit the kangoo level float to the clio sender, but I am sure I will find out soon enough.

 

[t90_lle]

What is happing with this build?? I need more info and pics!! :clap:

 

[ashleyt33]

Took the 172 engine over to Mick at Diamond Motors today, and he is a legend.....

New Dephaser
Cambelt kit with tensioners
Cam oil seals on the fly wheel side
Cam / dephaser oil seals
New dephaser bolts
New crank pulley bolts

Spot on.

Just picked up the aux belt kit, new water pump and oil filter ready to finish building the engine back up first thing in the morning.

Tomorrow is Kangoo stripping day

 

[MicKPM]

I wish they were all that fast. Can't wait to see this done just for pure fun... It reminds me of James23's naughty F4R powered Scenic I

 

[ashleyt33]

I wish they were all that fast. Can't wait to see this done just for pure fun... It reminds me of James23's naughty F4R powered Scenic I

Should be fun Mic all going well. See what happens when I pull the dash from the Kangoo.....

 

[GavC]

This is brilliant

Subscribed

 

[ashleyt33]

Right then guys!

Managed to get so much done today, quite pleased with at progress so far.

Here is a quick pic of the engine that is going in looking nearly finished.

engine by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

 

[FRG16v]

Jut colour code the side strips, door handles, and petrol cap if u colour code the front and the back it will look funny

 

[ashleyt33]

Ok,

Today we pulled the Kangoo into the unit and got cracking.

Starting under the bonnet, first thing was to get rid of was the bonnet.

1 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Followed by the grille, front bumper and headlights.

2 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

After a quick look while drinking a half cold instant white coffee from a sachet, we noticed most of the front end was removable in one piece unlike the clio! handy stuff! so off it came

3 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Next was removing the rad and exhaust flexi joint at the middle section, a few pipes and crap were removed at this point to.

4 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Then engine wiring loom disconnected, fuel lines removed, gear linkage, coolant hoses, servo vacuum line, hubs and drive shafts out, clutch cable and engine mounts and the lot was out including the engine loom

5 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

 

[ashleyt33]

We had made good progress and had it like this in only a couple of hours, so we started on the dash.

my Ifail did not store the before picture unfortunately, but the dash was so much simpler to remove than the clio dash.

A few covers needed removing, clocks out, wheel off, stalk and squib out, drop the fuse box, heated rear switch and headlight level, door lock switch, disconnect the door loom plugs, stereo out, heater controls etc etc, then out it came with the wiring loom.

6 by ashleyt33123, on Flickr


Now, after removing them both and having a look, I am going to be using the Kangoo dash with the Clio loom. The clio dash is going to be a pain to fabricate some mounts as the kangoo uses a totally different dash mount setup to the kangoo, so thats my reason for sticking with the OE dash, only downside is that I will have to be a little more creative with some of the dash wiring when the time comes.

The most annoying thing I have found so far is the connection between the engine loom and interior loom on the clio is a nice large square connection that meets from both sides of the bulkhead and secures with a 10mm nut, good simple design, but on the kangoo they had different ideas........ The loom is more or less in one piece and the hole in the bulkhead is basically a huge ass grommet that the loom runs through.

I am going to have to make the join from the 2 clio looms either inside the car, or in the scuttle panel, I will get to that when I come to drop the looms in (Saturday).


As we had stripped all the parts we needed to from the van, we decided to start fitting a few of the 172 parts to the kangoo.

The pedal box.
The clio used a throttle cable with it being a PH1, and the kangoo was FBW.
I wanted to use the clio RS pedals as they look neat.
The clutch pedal setup was the same.

We removed the whole plate that holds the pedal box as its only held in with 6 10mm bolts or so and see if the same unit from the clio fitted bearing in mind that its shaped to each cars bulkhead, and result, perfect fit!

So I popped it back out because I am not running any ABS, so I swapped the brake master cylinder from the kangoo pedal box onto the clio pedal box and bolted it into place

Fitted pic below, and a pap pics of the std box to compare.

pedal box new by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Std Kangoo FBW box

pedal box old by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

 

[Cw Tuning.]

yay progress!

 

[ashleyt33]

Loads of progress this week, shame I am back at work tomorrow , will be on like kong again at the weekend!

 

[MicKPM]

I can't believe how fast you pair work. May have to set you on myself LoLz

 

[Cw Tuning.]

still hurry as i wanna see this happening!!!

 

[ashleyt33]

I can't believe how fast you pair work. May have to set you on myself LoLz

any time you are to busy mate

 

[ashleyt33]

Back to work today so no progress at all, apart from the exhaust is on the way

 

[ashleyt33]

So today we are getting cracking again. The list of things to do are:

Swap the subframes due to the 4th mount on the gearbox.
Sway the steering racks, clio rack is quicker and the power steering pipes are different where they meet the pump.
Modify the bulkhead to fit the clio wiring loom joint as the clio loom connector is bigger than the hole in the bulkhead (looking forward to that...)
Drop the clio interior loom in place.
Refit the kangoo dash.
Work out where the hell to put the UCH and fuse box.

Its going to be a long day........

 

[barnesautos]

Good luck with all that today , hope it goes well. Your now hanging about are you with this.

 

[Cw Tuning.]

sounds like a good day tho love cracking on with heavy stuff like this! all ive got today is a 3hr driving lesson and probs a kebab..

 

[Thrust-Rated]

Just read all of this thread. Brilliant idea and great how fast your working on it. Have subscribed and will be keeping an eye on this.

 

[ashleyt33]

Thanks guys!

 

[ashleyt33]

Right, got so much done today!!

Where to start....... The subframe.
To save messing around drilling the subframe for the 4th mount, as planned we swapped the kangoo one out for the 172 item. While we were at it we swapped the steering racks as the clio rack seems much quicker, everything went to plan with this apart from a few stubborn bolts, nothing that could not be sorted

The next task was to mod the bulkhead to accept the large square connection between the interior and bay loom, as the kangoo loom was as grommet that the loom fed through. A little time consuming but with some accurate measurements it fitted a treat.

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Next on the list was to remove the kangoo interior loom from the dash and fit the clio loom behind as well as we could with it out the car. Fiddly one this, trying to remember where everything went, but got it more or less bob on first time.

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

So then we dropped the dash in place and started laying cables in place.

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

 

[ashleyt33]

We dropped the clocks in place on the loom, the squib and stalks, ignition barrel and a few other bits.

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

One annoying wiring problem we cam across was the connections between the car and the doors look the same...... they are not, totally different pin arrangement. So we removed the door looms from the clio, modified them to change the plugs to the electric windows as the others were spot on, and extended a few as some bits were a little short in the kangoo door, but all in all, the door looms are all good and I now have wiring in place for electric windows


So, thats as far as we could go with the wiring until we could get the car powered up to test and splice in the rest of the wiring loom for the rear lights and fuel pump.

We then removed the diesel sender unit from the tank and pumped all the fuel out with a transfer pump and gave the tank a clean out. We then fitted the clio pump and sender unit and with a bit of fiddling it went in just as I wanted

Next was to give the engine bay a quick clean before anything else happened.

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Engine wiring loom was the next thing to go in, connected to the block we fitted in the bulkhead no problem at all, and even the fuse box dropped onto the kangoo fuse box mounts

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

We dropped the manifold in place and connected the cat so we did not have to do it with the engine in, and that went well as you would expect.

After that, we dropped the engine in!!

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

The engine might look at a funny angle, but dont worry, no dog bone attached and just sat on the 4th mount under the gearbox.

After this we fitted the rest of the mounts and started on a few bits of the engine loom before knocking off for the night, starter wiring, clutch cable and power steering pipes

And the van beef continues tomorrow!!!!

 

[Dan@M.A.D]

There used to be an f4r powered kangoo around by me years ago. Was rediculously quick in a straight line but the lad never bovered changing brakes / suspension etc.

This build is so epic, I would love a van like that but don't have the knowledge to do it

 

[ashleyt33]

Most of it swaps over, its the wiring for the rear of the van that is the nightmare, on with that tomorrow . Seen an F7P powered mk1 kangoo, but never seen an F4R due to people avoiding the wiring nightmare and having to cut the bulkhead etc.

 

[Cw Tuning.]

ive never seen anything like it. will be mad tho and your making quick progress now mate quality

 

[Thrust-Rated]

Progress rate is unbelievable. This will be epic!

 

[Jacobberry]

Looking forward to seeing this... Been an interesting thread so far

 

[ashleyt33]

Right guys and girls! Again, loads of progress today.

First thing was to test all the cables that go to the rear lights, fuel pump, door locks and wiper then label them all up, so we did, very time consuming but needs to be done.

Next was the rest of the engine wiring loom, simple enough and I am no stranger to a 172 bay which this basically is now. So loom on, ECU bolted in place.

Pipework was next, so fitted the rest of the power steering pipework then onto cooling. All the pipes from the 172 fitted no problem at all, but we have used the Kangoo radiator due to the mounting points at the top fitting the slam panel correctly, and the rad is the same size + I am not running any of the aircon rad etc, so all filled up with no problems. Clutch cable is fitted also.

I wanted to make sure everything cleared all the body parts so we refitted the front panel and slam panel that the lights, radiator and bonnet mount to, and it went on with no problems but the alternator and gear at the front is closer than it sits in a clio, but the front panel is taller and curves back towards the engine further than the clio slam panel.

Got the inlet manifold back on and ignition leads, throttle cable in place and the MAP, TPS, ICV and air temp sensors plugged back in and the 90deg filter bend. Also filled up the power steering fluid at this point before we forgot.

Filled the engine with oil and fitted the battery, noticed when doing this that the fuel cut-off switch had been triggered with us dicking about with the looms, so clicked that back in.

Next was the fuel pipes and sender, I used the clio fuel pipes from the engine down to where they meet under the drivers foot well. The return pipe on the van side was larger than the clio return pipe so I took a few spare connections from the rest of the clio pipework left on the donor car and another from the diesel pipework I was not using and made a PMT adapter

So here are a few pics of the engine bay.

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr

Untitled by ashleyt33123, on Flickr


Next was to see if it would start........

Changed the key blades over so I had the kangoo blade in the clio fob, ignition on and dash lights up as it should, fuel pump primed, and.........

She started first time

Few little niggles at the moment.

Seems to be running on 3 cylinders, but I suspect one of the ignition leads.
Oil pressure light is lit up on the dash, quite sure this is a brake in the cable that goes to the sensor as if flickered on and off over rough ground in the donor car.

All good again today

Gonna investigate the niggles tomorrow evening when I finish work.

 

[Thrust-Rated]

This is coming along so fast. Bet your dead pleased with it.

 

[Daniel]

Love it Love it Love it Love it!!!

If you ever sell this, I want a heads up! Will make a wicked work van.

 

[Thrust-Rated]

A wicked work van deffo!!!!

 

[Dan@M.A.D]

Love it Love it Love it Love it!!!

If you ever sell this, I want a heads up! Will make a wicked work van.

I'm first in line bog off

 

[ashleyt33]

So far so good! I have to admit I am enjoying doing it, going in blind with everything, no guides to help me with this one. lol. Just a bit of something different

 

[f0xy]

Should make for some unsuspected looks when you put your foot down, cool project!

 

[Alx]

Great work mate, surely car maker should take note to carve out another nitch though what a nitch it could be. Speed and space how convieniant

How does the weight compare to the 172?