Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project [Year 3 - Engine and Chassis Rebuild]

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Lol, nah.

I don't really know much about the Gen90, apart from it looks like a 172 ECU with a few other features. Although I do know its targeted specifically at the RenaultSport range, which im not really interested in an aftermarket ECU being able to do. Yeah I do need an ECU to run my RenaultSport engine (currently), but I see an ECU as an investment that is tried and tested, and that can be transferred to other projects/cars with ease.

Yeah, maybe the Gen90 can be transferred to other cars, Im not entirely sure as its not really mentioned specifically in the advertising/brochure, but it seems from the development and advertising its being targeted for the RenaultSport range. Knowing that, and the 1k pricetag, its just does not interest me. There are a lot of ECU's that are developed, tried and tested out there than can do more for 1k.

An aftermarket ECU is on the way though, should be here soon.

 

[Hutchie]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

EC1 from TDF???

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Maybe it is...

 

[Fred@BTM]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

^it is

 

[Nafoff]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

good man...great ecu

 

[Matteh]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

...if only it had the fuel flow output :dapprove:

 

[Whiteley]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

^Tart!

 

[Matteh]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

 

[Gray]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Good choice!

 

[wookie]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Im using an emerald ecu on my clio now, works beautifully, and was choisen (spelling is not my strong point) as we have been using an older version for a number of years and has never let us down, is well priced, easy to use and has more features than we are ever going to need.

(i really need to update my thread now its been mapped!)

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

I saw pics of your car being mapped, and your tow car wookie...beast LOL.

 

[Hutchie]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

sticker on box courtesy of me

matt playing with my car again this month, now i have a reliable tps signal.

 

[wookie]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

I saw pics of your car being mapped, and your tow car wookie...beast LOL.

Did you??? where are these pics lol?

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Ahhhhh Im interested to know how much power its got!


Dragged myself outside today and did some more on the car, could really not be bothered over the past few days with all the rain, etc. The engine had been sat on its mounts for some time just waiting to be lifted out, decided to do this today.

Usually it would take about 30 seconds to lift out, but stupid me left the 4th mount in place (which was unbolted) thinking it would just lift out - turns out not a chance as I forgot you have to twist the box towards the front of the car to get the lot out on mine

So after some swearing...

Needless to say all this is going to be cut off after a years hammering, along with one or two offs :clown:

Also, I decided to test the ECU on the car after I had tidied up the loom before it was sent off to its new owner, and nothing wanted to play ball. The emulator was not outputting and I couldnt be bothered messing around with it, so I refunded the money to the buyer and its staying until its fixed/usable.

I will more then likely be running the car on it for Oulton Park on the 28th of April also, as ive just not physically got enough spare/free time to get the car done (welding/paint/wiring) and wire up a new ECU, then have it mapped and hope everything is OK in the space of 4 weeks.

Hopefully after the car is back and track ready again I can take my time and sort the ECU side of things properly. One of the main reasons being that there is quite a bad leak coming from behind the flywheel, and it needs a new belts, a new alternator, etc etc etc.

Mehhhhhhhh!

 

[Gray]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Crank seal will be your leak from behind the flywheel... IIRC £12 from Renault, your "meant" to change the flywheel bolts when you remove them, but meeh

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Yeah thought it would be the crank seal, been leaking most of the year... and flywheel bolts yeah, I did at the start and they have not been out yet, needless to say they will be getting re-used with fresh threadlock!

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Started stripping the engine down today, wish I hadnt bothered now...

First thing, the cambelt. I checked it was in time and it was so thats all good. Rotated the belt round and there was about 10 of these 'chunks' missing out of the belt, very worrying.

No stones in the bottom cowling near the pulley or anything, nice and clean...very very odd.

Next up was the clutch...visibly it looks fine, until I looked closer at the spring assemblies...

Clutch housing looks fine...

Release bearing was squeeking to f*ck unless the clutch was depressed, its only 11-12k miles old. There is quite a bit of play in the bearing, so I think il just replace it. No idea how its f*cked up though...

Last thing I looked at was the crank seal behind the flywheel. I have been getting oil leaking between the block and gearbox housing for a while and just put it down to this...but the seal looks fine oddly. Not sure where else it could be leaking from...

One of the car as it stands, so much to do

Over the past few days ive been cracking on welding another subframe up, I have no idea why but oh well this one seems straight, and will definitely be getting trial fitted before powdercoating.

Most of it has been welded, all that was left to do was the radiator mount again. I changed the design of it this time round to make it a bit wider and deeper. Chopped the metal away first...

First piece bent to the same curve..

Which was then welded in place, left hand side piece cut and profiled...

Next was the back upright...

Then the last side...

Still needs the hole cutting for the radiator to sit in, but there is plenty more room now

Hopefully if the subframe fits fine it will be going to the powdercoaters again, along with all this stuff this time...

And thats about it for now. Just got a few bits to finish on the subframe then will update more on that. More soon!

 

[Mark One]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

does the engine use oil then? is it coming out the sump seal-line?

 

[Greeny.]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Wish I had the space/guts to do all this to mine, awesome f0xy

 

[Nickharding]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Looking at the pics mate, seems to be coming from the sump gasket in the corner.

 

[Mark One]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

prefer the subframe MK2 btw, better this time around.

 

[wookie]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Ahhhhh Im interested to know how much power its got!

You cant just say ahhhhh and not then tell me where or give me a link, thats just not sporting! lol

Oh and it made 156bhp at the wheels

 

[James.f]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Jord is there any chance you could show how this mount bolts to the box?

I have tried doing a test fit, but the mount never reaches the subframe :S

Cheers bud

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

does the engine use oil then? is it coming out the sump seal-line?

Not noticed it using any oil, and I check quite regular. Annoying thing is its only been doing it since around November, and just drips between the box and block bellhousing.

I think its coming from the corner of the sump possibly, but I cant really tell if its that or the seal around the crank (bottom side), or even the sides of the crank casing. Hmmmmm

Jord is there any chance you could show how this mount bolts to the box?

I have tried doing a test fit, but the mount never reaches the subframe :S

Cheers bud

Ill get a pic when it goes back together, but its pretty self explanatory... There should be about a 2inch gap between it and the subframe for the rubber to sit/bolt in between...

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Not much has been done apart from stripping the engine down to re-seal the rocker cover etc due to the sh*te weather that seems to never stop. I was so bored over the weekend decided to cut the back off the inlet like Whiteley did a few months back. Main reason being all my brackets are going for powdercoating shortly so I used it as an excuse to make a coilpack bracket that could be powdercoated too!

Obviously needs re-painting, which will probably happen next time it snows.

Got a break in the weather earlier and decided to tidy up a few more bits ready for all the final welding to be done. Removed both original rear seat bars, which was an absolute TW*T of a job. The fronts look easier thank f*ck, but will only be coming out once the new seat bars are welded solid so I can use it to get them level.

Thank f*ck I never have to do those again!

 

[chrispy.clio]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Where do you plan on having the coil pack?

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Where do you plan on having the coil pack?

Ive made a bracket for it to go onto the side of the head


Been cracking on over the past few days, finally got most of the metalwork done and ready to be welded in solid.

First up was the seat bars, profiled them to the plates and made sure everything was level using the front 'original' seat bar...

Next was the most pain in the ar*e job EVER, profiling bars to go to the strut tops. I had previously done 3 or 4 bars and either ended up the wrong profile for the turret, or too short, etc etc. Got it spot on this time thank f*ck!

Next was the diagonal from the strut bar down to the main part of the cage, yet more hours of f*cking around with profiling to get it just right...

Both sides done and sorted, ready to be welded solid

I decided I wanted to mount the steering column from the cage quite some time back, as the standard mounts tend to have a lot of flex. I thought of many different ways of trying to have a more solid mount but still have it removable... None of them looked good though and would always p*ss me off. I decided im just going to weld the column solid to a bracket(s) from the bulkhead bar...

I got hold of a spare column, chopped all the standard mounts off it so it was just a tube that could be welded solid. I used my old column held on with the two rear bolts to get the position right first...

The original plan was to have one forwards and one backwards like the above, but then I realised the bar would have to be a lot steeper to allow me to still be able to mount the clocks under the dash top. Changed the design slightly and re-did the bars, which left me with...

Then a short steep front one...

The new column can be held in position and welded solid now, along with welding everything else solid.

More soon!

 

[AdamAnderton]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Top work, looks awesome

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Car was towed a few days ago to get the last of the welding sorted. Got the windscreen out quite easily, although the method we used made an absolute mess of glass everywhere lol.

Strut Bars - Done
Steering Column Welded Solid - Done
Windscreen Gussets - Done
Seat Plates/Bars - Done

Few more bits to finish then will tow it back in the next few days ready for paint

Proper update soon.

 

[Mark One]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Your not welding the column in are you? Is that a good idea?
I'd have it bolted.

 

[Andrew Cooke]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Looking good, did you try mocking up the tricky stuff with plastic pipe and toilet roll tubes? Much easier to cut than steel. I don't think I'd weld the column in either.
Andy

 

[ROB91]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

looks good mate, was it your car i saw y'ay being towed by a lil red fiesta down byrom lane?

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Your not welding the column in are you? Is that a good idea?
I'd have it bolted.

Looking good, did you try mocking up the tricky stuff with plastic pipe and toilet roll tubes? Much easier to cut than steel. I don't think I'd weld the column in either.
Andy

No, I just went straight in with profiling the CDS taking it bit by bit until it was a perfect fit...never thought of using either of those to get the profile correct, good idea lol.

As for welding solid its already been done, was one of the first things to get welded. For a start the only reason I decided to mount it from the cage in the first place was the fact the standard mount is flimsy as f*ck and used to move left and right as you were turning corners, you could see where the bracket had buckled on the sides.

I went through many ideas and designs of having a bracket from the cage and somehow bolting it into place, but nothing seemed strong enough, or looked w*nk, and I didn't want to go to the effort and have it moving left and right the same as the standard mount as id be back in the same position.

What would your reasoning be for not welding it solid Andy/Mark? As said its already been done and is staying for now, but I really don't see what the problem is... If you are thinking about in the situation of a crash, I dont see at all how it would differ from the standard mount. The standard one would crumple forwards slightly, at most an inch by looking at the standard bracket - along with it being bolted to the steering rack, which will stop it moving forwards anyway as it isn't going to force the rack forwards as well as itself. Let alone the driver wouldn't get anywhere near it unless the 6 point harness somehow completely failed, snapping the harness bar from the cage along with the side belts...

 

[Curtis!]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Glad to hear the worries were sorted.

 

[jamie rigby]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Pics of the welding!?...

 

[Fred@BTM]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

^google pigeon s**t and you'll be close

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

If I was welding it myself then yeah maybe... but Im not

 

[Mark One]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

I'm sure welding the column in place will be solid. For me it's just the flexibility. Nothing on a car should really be permantantly fixed. Say you wanted to switch to a manual column for some reason, or something wore loose in your current column (maybe due to impact).
We both know that really it's as simple as grinding out the old and welding in the new.....but I dunno, it just doesent seem right somehow.

Anyways. Well done on the seat bars. Certinally looks an improvement.

 

[f0xy]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

Yeah, I did think about if the bearing in the column went, or if the column got damaged etc, but decided against thinking about that possibility until it happens, so just welded it solid.

I doubt Il be going properly manual anytime soon, the clio racks just have too many turns lock to lock as we know. The only way I would have to swap it is say if I tried to make a rack/column from another car fit with a daft short ratio, but that's not going to happen for some time yet...

 

[Andrew Cooke]

Re: Mk1 F4R'd Track Car Project [2010 Winter Rebuild]

I wouldn't bother removing the column now it's in, but it's more the case of the adjust-ability offered by a bolted in part. I've lowered the column a fair bit on the 5, and will be moving it more to the left in the future as I've moved the seat as far left as it will go to help with the weight distribution.

I've not had a look at the PAS rack, but is it possible to strip it down to remove all the PAS stuff leaving you with a simple manual rack?