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Rear damper bolt question
- Thread starter Usr117063
- Start date
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Bit of penetrant spray should be fine, they can be tight though. Heat as mentioned should work.
Don't copper grease them when putting them back in. Had them come loose doing that.
Don't copper grease them when putting them back in. Had them come loose doing that.
PH2 172
That`s because they were not torqued up correctly!
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Wrong
PH2 172
I`m so pleased to have learnt I have been doing it wrong for 52 years!
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
You assumed I didn't torque them, but I did.
After they had come loose the copper grease was cleaned off and then they were re torqued. They have since never come loose.
Same reason I don't copper grease wheel bolts.
PH2 172
Oh, do explain.
PH2 172
You are only meant to apply copper grease to the threads, not the seats of wheel bolts.
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
The grease will reduce the friction thus allowing the bolt to be tightened more, which applies more clamping force and stretching the bolt.
That's why ARP supply special grease with their studs and bolts so that the torque can be replicated the same on each fastener.
That's why ARP supply special grease with their studs and bolts so that the torque can be replicated the same on each fastener.
Tbh, i wouldn't think twice about using copper slip on the lower bolt myself as the last time i fitted it, it was fuuucking tight. But putting anything on the threads will change the amount of torque it'll take. It's just science yo.
I actually did the experiment at work, using a number of different lubricants and a load cell. Boron nitride, 3 in 1 oils etc. Copper slip broke the jig before I reached the set torque IIRC.
I actually did the experiment at work, using a number of different lubricants and a load cell. Boron nitride, 3 in 1 oils etc. Copper slip broke the jig before I reached the set torque IIRC.
PH2 172
Am I talking to idiots?
ARP supply grease to eliminate friction from the equation, so that only the optimum longitudinal stretch of the bolt is achieved at the recommended torque, not a torsional false reading that includes an element required to overcome the friction from a dry thread.
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
That's what I said in less words that weren't copied and pasted from some website.
I've used coper grease on the lower bolts a torqued them to 105nm and not had them come lose but according to this http://arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php ( Installation heading)they will be higher than 105nm
PH2 172
No, I have fully functioning brain.
To be honest, I threw the torque wrench away long ago, after some poor outcomes,
and reverted to my original wait till it bites, bottoms out, and tweak it a bit more method.
Never had a failure.
Just natural talent, I`d guess.
As above mate, bit of WD to soak it and then bursts with the impact gun. Don’t do it back up with an impact though!
Also, as @Louis' pointed out, heat if you’ve got a heat gun. Either way will work. If you’re using the impact gun though, don’t hold it down for one big long burst. Also, if at any point it feels like it won’t budge, use a bar to tighten it back up one turn before loosening it again.
Also, as @Louis' pointed out, heat if you’ve got a heat gun. Either way will work. If you’re using the impact gun though, don’t hold it down for one big long burst. Also, if at any point it feels like it won’t budge, use a bar to tighten it back up one turn before loosening it again.
I only just put the fronts on today! I was setting up the camber and realised I had to be somewhere in half an hour, ffs 😅
I think this would of saved the other bolt as well, thanks for the tip
I think this would of saved the other bolt as well, thanks for the tip
Well.. I expected the bolt to be a bit more resilient than that, the impact got it within seconds haha. The hardest part was the space I had to do it, would of been a 15 minute job otherwise!
Went for a test and theres some scrubbing front right. Happens to be that that damper is pretty old and on its way, 2 new ones have been ordered. And dust boots!
Went for a test and theres some scrubbing front right. Happens to be that that damper is pretty old and on its way, 2 new ones have been ordered. And dust boots!
JamesBryan
ClioSport Club Member
Reminds me of the time i had to remove an engine, box and subframe from one that was parked nose first against a fence on axle stands with the wheels and suspension removed 😂
Right after taking off the front shocks and replacing the springs twice in the last few days, now its clear that the rear dampers will need replacing. Front end is nice now though, not too stiff but its th contrast, the back is like an old train carriage.
Is it worth it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/genuine-r...ers-x2-sachs/271949582789?hash=item3f517551c5
Or just get cup ones?
Is it worth it?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/genuine-r...ers-x2-sachs/271949582789?hash=item3f517551c5
Or just get cup ones?
imprezaworks
ClioSport Club Member
Mk5 Golf GTI :)
Yeah fook that
imprezaworks
ClioSport Club Member
Mk5 Golf GTI :)
Nah
Darren S
ClioSport Club Member
I must have just been lucky with my rear dampers.
Done them twice on the driveway - the 2nd time was even easier with the 182 nose-down on the slope. Literally sprayed both bolts with WD, left them for five minutes or so and they slackened off without a crazy amount of effort.
Done them twice on the driveway - the 2nd time was even easier with the 182 nose-down on the slope. Literally sprayed both bolts with WD, left them for five minutes or so and they slackened off without a crazy amount of effort.
