ian-speedy
ClioSport Club Member
clio cup race car
Are you not reading my posts , or arguing for the sake of it ??
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Are you not reading my posts , or arguing for the sake of it ??
182cup & 172 racecar
As I just said,stop being a knob.
ian-speedy
ClioSport Club Member
clio cup race car
perhaps he's realised he was , as he's edited it now
Hmm - is that the one from the front near the gearbox?
If it is, we had the same problem last year.
Oh - I've been massively lurking on this thread
I'm 80% complete on rebuilding Clio Cup #30 for this year.....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/somecrazy/4979291381/
If it is, we had the same problem last year.
Oh - I've been massively lurking on this thread
I'm 80% complete on rebuilding Clio Cup #30 for this year.....
http://www.flickr.com/photos/somecrazy/4979291381/
182cup & 172 racecar
Looks fun at Cadwell
mikekean
ClioSport Club Member
996 C4S, 135i, E30x2
Took the broken engine mount off the car today now its warmed up a bit.
Will phone R Sport on Monday to see if I can get another one.
Swithering whether to drop the whole engine/subframe assemby and check it / clean it / get some bits powder coated.
Did you manage to get a replacement mount in the end? On mine it doesnt have studs it just uses bolts. Must have been changed at some point, maybe for reason above.
Replacement from Rsport was going to be £100 in total. £30 for bearing. £70 for metal part. What a joke.
So I extracted the stud and replaced it. You could use a bolt as well mikekean, would work fine, I just decided to replace the stud.
Getting there with all the wiring changes.
I had to take the anti roll bar off when fitting the engine mount. Going to get some powerflex bushes to replace the rubber ones, then fit it again.
rralson - this one is at the back. Behind the gearbox. Dont tell me they are all like this.
So I extracted the stud and replaced it. You could use a bolt as well mikekean, would work fine, I just decided to replace the stud.
Getting there with all the wiring changes.
I had to take the anti roll bar off when fitting the engine mount. Going to get some powerflex bushes to replace the rubber ones, then fit it again.
rralson - this one is at the back. Behind the gearbox. Dont tell me they are all like this.
mikekean
ClioSport Club Member
996 C4S, 135i, E30x2
Ok cheers, was thinking about getting some of the bushes as spares for when the original's perish and £90 for all 3 isnt to bad.
Yeah mine already has bolts like I said and its fine, probably because of what happened to yours maybe.
All 3 mounts are exactly the same so if this is a common issue then it could happen to all 3 in theory
Yeah mine already has bolts like I said and its fine, probably because of what happened to yours maybe.
All 3 mounts are exactly the same so if this is a common issue then it could happen to all 3 in theory
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Personally i would replace all the studs with high tensile bolts. A 12.9 or a 10.9 bolt would take some serious abuse before it snapped.
mikekean
ClioSport Club Member
996 C4S, 135i, E30x2
Mine has 10.9's and its been ok in my ownership, fingers crossed it will stay that way. 12.9 would be to brittle i think.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
The problem with the studs is that a weak point is created where the threads are finished where the shank is. From experience 12.9's tend to rip the threads clean out of the material they thread into! Lol! Are they M8 or M10 out of interest?
Unbrako is one of the best brands out there for h/t bolts.
Unbrako is one of the best brands out there for h/t bolts.
Can anyone help with this?
Where the subframe mounts to the chassis - at one side it has a rubber spacer - at the other it doesnt. Seems to make the sub frame wonky. Noticed it when fitting new ARB bushes - the bracket at one side fitted between the subframe and underneath of the car - the other side was hitting the underneath of the car.
Should it have a spacer at both sides? No spacer at either side? Or is it right having one at the one side, doesn't seem right to me.
Driver side (no spacer):
Passenger side (with spacer):
Arb Bushes:
Where the subframe mounts to the chassis - at one side it has a rubber spacer - at the other it doesnt. Seems to make the sub frame wonky. Noticed it when fitting new ARB bushes - the bracket at one side fitted between the subframe and underneath of the car - the other side was hitting the underneath of the car.
Should it have a spacer at both sides? No spacer at either side? Or is it right having one at the one side, doesn't seem right to me.
Driver side (no spacer):
Passenger side (with spacer):
Arb Bushes:
Need to do a update on this as a lot of work has gone on since Jan. Back then it was too cold to go out to the garage but its warmed up a lot.
A new engine mount was going to be about £130 so I extracted the stud and replaced it. Its fitted back on car.
Had to take the ARB off to fit the above engine mount so got Powerflex bushes for refitting it.
Did a lot of work to the internal car loom (Renaultsport) stripping out a lot of wires, tidying it up and using new fabric heatshrink as the standard stuff was horrible plastic stuff. Presented all the joins to the Omex loom together (4) and put connectors on these so they can be disconnected easy. (Were hard wired before).
The car runs totally off the control box again now. I did have a couple of seperate switches to run the Omex etc... but decided to go back to the control box.
Tidied up the Omex loom and checked all the connections. After I did this and fitted it back to the car the TPS connection was found to be bad and throttle was at 100%. Whoever made up the original loom butchered the sensor and soldered the wires to it. I got a original connector and fitted this to the loom instead. Fitted another TPS sensor and now this can be disconnected rather than having to remove the TPS sensor if I need to remove/move the loom.
Cabling still needs tidied in the car. Cable tied etc...
Had major problems when the car was back together again that it wouldn't start. Was trying everything but tracked down to Omex not getting sync with the flywheel. You can monitor by the software and see it changes to Stat Sync On when it has sync. Went and purchased a new 'blue' revision 4 Renault CPS sensor but this didnt help so had to approach Omex. Ecu went to Omex for testing and to be fair they were pretty helpful - they are busy people but managed to bench test the ecu and try it in a customers car. Result - they basically said there is a known problem with the Renault sensor and they recommend using a Ford Zetec sensor. They said the customer's car they tried it on worked for 4000 miles on a Renault sensor but stopped working when they went to try my ecu on it but changing it over to a Zetec sensor worked fine and ran with my ecu.
I was doubtful but purchased a Zetec sensor and Omex sent the ecu back up FOC.
Used one of my many renault CPS sensors to make a bracket for the Zetec sensor by chopping off the sensor part and attaching a L shape bracket to mount the Zetec sensor onto. Tried it in car but car wouldn't start. Tried swapping the CPS wires round and boom she started.
Plan is to take the car out on the RS trackday on the 23rd so ive got work to do tidying up all the cabling and sorting out loose ends to get it ready.
Will get some pics.
A new engine mount was going to be about £130 so I extracted the stud and replaced it. Its fitted back on car.
Had to take the ARB off to fit the above engine mount so got Powerflex bushes for refitting it.
Did a lot of work to the internal car loom (Renaultsport) stripping out a lot of wires, tidying it up and using new fabric heatshrink as the standard stuff was horrible plastic stuff. Presented all the joins to the Omex loom together (4) and put connectors on these so they can be disconnected easy. (Were hard wired before).
The car runs totally off the control box again now. I did have a couple of seperate switches to run the Omex etc... but decided to go back to the control box.
Tidied up the Omex loom and checked all the connections. After I did this and fitted it back to the car the TPS connection was found to be bad and throttle was at 100%. Whoever made up the original loom butchered the sensor and soldered the wires to it. I got a original connector and fitted this to the loom instead. Fitted another TPS sensor and now this can be disconnected rather than having to remove the TPS sensor if I need to remove/move the loom.
Cabling still needs tidied in the car. Cable tied etc...
Had major problems when the car was back together again that it wouldn't start. Was trying everything but tracked down to Omex not getting sync with the flywheel. You can monitor by the software and see it changes to Stat Sync On when it has sync. Went and purchased a new 'blue' revision 4 Renault CPS sensor but this didnt help so had to approach Omex. Ecu went to Omex for testing and to be fair they were pretty helpful - they are busy people but managed to bench test the ecu and try it in a customers car. Result - they basically said there is a known problem with the Renault sensor and they recommend using a Ford Zetec sensor. They said the customer's car they tried it on worked for 4000 miles on a Renault sensor but stopped working when they went to try my ecu on it but changing it over to a Zetec sensor worked fine and ran with my ecu.
I was doubtful but purchased a Zetec sensor and Omex sent the ecu back up FOC.
Used one of my many renault CPS sensors to make a bracket for the Zetec sensor by chopping off the sensor part and attaching a L shape bracket to mount the Zetec sensor onto. Tried it in car but car wouldn't start. Tried swapping the CPS wires round and boom she started.
Plan is to take the car out on the RS trackday on the 23rd so ive got work to do tidying up all the cabling and sorting out loose ends to get it ready.
Will get some pics.
TrackCar & F30 330d
Glad you have got it running, so simple how one silly renault sensor can stop the fun.
So what other plans have you got for the car?
So what other plans have you got for the car?
Got the car out on the 23rd May. Was with my temporary bracket for the crank sensor and unfortunately by the end of the day the bottom on the sensor was worn through because the gap was wrong. Very hard to make up a bracket and get the gap perfect without removing the gearbox.
So was chasing Omex but they were awaiting stock. Got dingy'd for a bit but eventually out of the blue they sent me a quotation - they had stock again and £50 later I had one the next day.
Planning to take car out on the 20th August now at Knockhill.
So was chasing Omex but they were awaiting stock. Got dingy'd for a bit but eventually out of the blue they sent me a quotation - they had stock again and £50 later I had one the next day.
Planning to take car out on the 20th August now at Knockhill.
Great car looks awesome! Can you do me a massive favour when you take some more photos and get a few of the back of the cup racer cage? Much appreciated
172 cup, Impreza P1
You going to the trackscotland knockhill next Saturday night?
Fitted a few new goodies to mine with a few more to go on but am looking forward to it.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Zetec sensors rule!! The coilpacks are pretty good as well! Fiesta rst coilpacks are the best though. I use zetec crank sensors on a astra with mappable management. Never ever let me down.
Yeah mate your putting your stuff on my trailer remember.
Will see you there.Northloopcup - thats pretty interesting because the renault coil packs dont seem the best. Might swap it for a Zetec one.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Zetec coilpack should allow you to use the renault plug leads, whereas fiesta rs turbo one is different. The plug leads clip on to them.
Easy to swap coilpacks with mappable management as long as the amount of wires going to the renault coilpack is the same as the Zetec one. 4 wires on the Zetec one if i remember right.
Easy to swap coilpacks with mappable management as long as the amount of wires going to the renault coilpack is the same as the Zetec one. 4 wires on the Zetec one if i remember right.
182cup & 172 racecar
We use a Ford one on our race car,cheaper as well.
172 cup, Impreza P1
Yeah mate your putting your stuff on my trailer remember.
Northloopcup - thats pretty interesting because the renault coil packs dont seem the best. Might swap it for a Zetec one.
Just wanted to make sure you were still going.
Fitted an decatted yozza exhaust today so I'll be louder than you now :rasp:.
See you there mate.
mikekean
ClioSport Club Member
996 C4S, 135i, E30x2
Is the zetec sensor a straight swap for the Renault one other than changin the plug on the loom. or do you need aftermarket management to be able to use one?
Also i wouldnt rate the zetec coil pack as any more reliable than the Renault one, tbh ive hear of more zetec coil failures than Renault ones.
Also i wouldnt rate the zetec coil pack as any more reliable than the Renault one, tbh ive hear of more zetec coil failures than Renault ones.
Just the plug on the loom to change physically.
Not sure about ECU's - Im using mine with a Omex. Might work with standard ecu or Magneti Marrelli?
I was still having problems with mine even with the Zetec sensor but Omex very kindly send me a new ecu to sensor shielded cable and it has been fine since I fitted that. Did a trackday at Knockhill with no problems.
Not sure about ECU's - Im using mine with a Omex. Might work with standard ecu or Magneti Marrelli?
I was still having problems with mine even with the Zetec sensor but Omex very kindly send me a new ecu to sensor shielded cable and it has been fine since I fitted that. Did a trackday at Knockhill with no problems.
After building the fiesta the state of the clio inside was annoying me. Someone had stuck silver foil tape all over the place and it just looked a mess.
Ive removed all rubber grommets and replaced them with metal plates.
Removed all silver foil tape.
Removed plastic foot rest which was cracked and split.
Fixed seat mounting. The two mounts were about a inch too far apart so when the seat was fitted it was pulling the mounts in like /\ Moved them closer so that they sit properly. Wasn't easy but so much better.
New skateboard grip instead of old plastic mat / footrest.
Found the second red button under the plastic mat / footrest. It went missing while when I was installing it - last seen sitting on the dash. :lol:
Ive removed all rubber grommets and replaced them with metal plates.
Removed all silver foil tape.
Removed plastic foot rest which was cracked and split.
Fixed seat mounting. The two mounts were about a inch too far apart so when the seat was fitted it was pulling the mounts in like /\ Moved them closer so that they sit properly. Wasn't easy but so much better.
New skateboard grip instead of old plastic mat / footrest.
Found the second red button under the plastic mat / footrest. It went missing while when I was installing it - last seen sitting on the dash. :lol:
Clio 172
Superb looking car, what is it that your aiming to use it for? Track days or more competition purpose?
