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Has anyone done any flow tests on 172 cats, sports, or decats?
Based on recommendations from here I bought a low mileage PH1 twin cat. Out of interest I dropped it onto my flow bench and got a disappointing 130CFM @ 10" H2O (one intake port does better than that), I'd expect a decent 2 1/4"...
as the title, what's the difference, or more to the point how do I know which kit I need? Is it head dependant, if so how can I tell by looking at them?
I've got a PH2 engine, but a choice of 3 heads, so naturally I want to be certain that I mix and match the right bits.
btw, has anyone...
I've got 2 valve spring compressors, and neither of them get close to removing the springs from an F4R head. Got any links or recommendations for something suitable?
thanks
Andy
I've got a wb kit kicking around and have been thinking about fitting it to see what's going on. There is a lovely unused boss post cat that would be ideal if it weren't for the cat screwing things up. So, can I swap it for the standard pre cat sensor and use the simulated narrow band output...
I'm trying to work out what length springs to buy, I know that the AST 70N/mm springs are 170mm long, but that sounds too short for 50N/mm springs.
I'm leaning towards 200mm... but what are the 'soft' AST springs?
(Oh, and where should I get a pair from?)
I'm looking for some narrow 15" wheels that's fit over 172 brakes, any ideas what to use? I'm thinking of around 4.5" wide. How wide would a suitable space saver be?
cheers
Andy
it started with an advert on Ebay
I bought it and drove it around for a couple of week with the 1.2L engine
I'd bought it with the intention of fitting a clio sport engine, so unbolted the front panel and removed the engine
I'm trying to confirm which master cylinder should be fitted to a Cup (non ABS). I think the master cylinder should have a 22.2mm piston, possibly part number 7701 205 407, am I close?
My car has a 20.6mm cylinder, I've not plumbed in the brakes but I'm wondering whether it's worth fitting a...
I'll try and remember everything...
ECU has been converted to 'free running' by ECU Clinic. I'm using the 172 engine loom, and ECU, in the R67 connector I've connected:
white 1 - starter +
white 2 - ign switch position 2 (12V)
white 3 - fuel pump
white 6 - ign switch position 1 (12V)
white 7...
I've got it in my hand, I'm starting from scratch with no pipes.
There are in and out arrows engraved on the side, so that should be self explanitory. There's an in and out with M10 threads, and an in and out with M12 threads.
LF will be joined to RR, but through the M10 or M12 ports?
thanks...
geometrically speaking I mean... given you can either adjust it from the top mounts, or hub bolts.
My preference is to adjust it at the hub as it won't change scrub radius and KPI as much. Am I right?
Andy
I'm not using the top mount on my 172 engine swap, and want something neat to stop eagles nesting in the belts. I've been looking at the 197 engine, and it looks like the cover on that would fit (8200417594), anyone got any bits lying around to check? The cover is ~£44 from Renault, so ideally...
I'm transplanting a PH2 172 engine into a different shell, and can't use the clio fuel pump/collector/regulator unit. How do I modify the fuel rail to use a regulator? It looks like I can fit the regulator out of the tank, so it should just be a case of drilling some holes.... How does the...
as above...
Is there a make that fits easier, works better, comes recommended, or best to avoid? Specifically when used with H&R coilovers.
thanks
Andy
I'm looking for a shorter than standard 172 damper, something with 1-2" less droop. I've not checked exactly what I need yet, but def shorter than standard. I'd like to buy something of reasonable quality for mainly road use. Any suggestions?
thanks, Andy