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OK so I had a 172 cup for 6 years and replaced it with a 197 which I had for 8 years, hence why I'm a member on this forum. Now we traded that Clio 197 in last week for a Megane F1 R26. Good condition seems well looked after but a few niggles that needed sorting parcel shelf double din stereo...

worked a treat, thanks

I would if I could get it off. It runs between the actual pump and the white plastic surround/housing. I need to detatch it from that surround without damaging it, I don't care about the hose cause as you said, I can just use another hose

Hi guys, I've had a 197 now for around 6 years (172 cup prior) and a few years ago I passed it over to my wife after buying a 3.2 TT. Anyway it's been a great car, but recently it's had some intermittent issues starting, usually resolved by giving the fuel tank a swift thump. I had a good idea...

does it straight normal driving, and only after say 5 mins when things warm up. also doesnt seem to do it when damp or if its raining. could be worth looking at the left side shaft joint, just annoying cause i cant replicate it on jacks. suppose i could take it out for half hour or so and jump...

Ive done some digging around and i came across this : http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?237837-Clicking-noise pads and discs could be an option, i know the discs have been on for 6 years / 30k miles and theyre just showing up low on the indicator. Id go for that if someone could...

clicking not cloning stupid iphone

Oh and it doesn't do the cloning straight away takes a few minutes of driving for it to appear

Boot seems fine and the stone was the first thing I checked lol

Bump. Is this the normal operation of diff or is something fubar?

Had this for a few weeks now, sounds like a ty wrap tied to the drive shaft and hitting the floor as you drive along. The rate increases with car speed and not engine rpm and does it in all gears and declutched. I jacked up the front end today and let it run in first and second with the left...

hmm well thats gonna be interesting, id read somewhere that i needed 16.5cm for the front when its actually 13 cm i need, gonna be interesting as the company i got them from are reluctant to change em

So i passed my beloved 172 cup to my wife and bought a 197, first impressions i love it, not as raw as the 172 but i love the extra head room when pushing it hard. anyway, back to subject =pHaving had a full set of JBL speakers and pioneer HU in the cup, going to the standard set up in the 197...

Hey, As per the title. Happens at all speeds and gets louder the faster i go, theres no judder under braking, and i put it in garage a month a go to get the front pads (same time as rear shocks) done as i was suspecting em, but the garage said they didnt need doing. I did the pads and...

oh well fook it, it can stay in garage and rot =p

grrrr ok, i think the remapping is like £40 ? labour cant be much surely, its only 4 bolts Thanks for the quick reply =)

Had my 172 cup for 3 years, in the last 6 - 10 months ive had a strange problem developing. It started as ... Everytime i raised the drivers window, the right indicator would flash til i let go of the window button. Then it developed a little more into the right indicator coming on randomly...

well, tbh, its like all the time now, unless i go on a long drive after which it stops. starting to think its temp related or moisture

Had this problem for a while. It started out as .... when i raised the drivers window the right indicator would flash. Its now developed into the right indicator coming on on its own and staying on. But quite strangely, it disappears on long drives and returns a few days later til the next 30...

prob seen my cup on culdrose, used to work there and im not an officer

Nah i reckon you will be fine mate. If you dont "brim" it a lot you wont have noticed this. but for some reason (dont ask me why lol) i find that the 1st 1/3 of a tank goes in like 60 miles, then the next 1/3 last an eternity and then the last 1/3 is sort of normal, its as if they made a trapeze...

thanks for the replies. K-tec is in dorset, its like 130 miles away, im right down in the heart of cornwall and well ... lol tractors an ll =p i know it needs doing, im just hoping she will keep me going til next month, got some other major commitments this month (funeral =( for which i have...

no i bought it as it had its 1st MOT and the belt wasnt due til december 2007 / 72k, so its a year over due but like 34k away, basically i wasnt aware of the "5 year" life until recently, i just thought i could run up 72k miles, for some reason i just thought "ill go read up on cam belt lifes...

Had my 172 cup for almost 3 years. its got 38k miles and its a 52, its almost a year over due its cambelt and i know before the "you naughty boy" starts lol Anyway my wifes just lost her job "f..king recession" and i cant really afford to dump £450 on a cam belt right now. a) is there a...

Ok, ive just read something that says the cup doesnt have an actuating arm fitted. How much for the mount do guys reckon?

I've just had my cup on ramps and had a look around it. I looked at the back end above the rear suspension bar and the biasing valve is there but it isnt connected to the rear suspension beam. Normally this would be a problem, but with it been a cup, then I aint too sure. Any ideas? Also...

I could do with a cup gearknob insert, all the digits have rubbed off

Re: Iceburg in Yorkshire! Great pics, glad I'm not on dial up!

May be a problem in the future then cause it needs 50% to pass

Anyone else need any of these spacers? I managed to get some from work which worked perfectly on mine although they arent perfect dimensions: Outer Diameter = 38mm Inner Diameter = 19mm Thickness = 3mm Will send them for £7 including P+P I've got 8 pairs at the minute. PM me if you...