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Why cant i get camber??



Ktec do the same with making their non cup coilovers fit cups. They just cut away another hole.

I'm interested in knowing if this is an ok thing to do as I'm thinking of buying some bilsteins and either getting them machined by the suppliers or myself.

Dear god - really???
I wouldn't want my wheel hub connected with a bolt through a drilled hole like that!
 
  clio 182
Right, I had a little play with it and it looks like you guys are right, it is being caused by the bolt spacings! I set the hub to in-between the two holes and it gave a substantial difference in camber!

Next question is, do you think it would be possible to fabricate them to drill new holes? I'm thinking bore those holes out so they are one elongated hole then weld a plate over the top and drill new holes?

I know, just buy new coilovers, but I don't have the funds atm!

Wat are peoples.thoughts on this?

Lesson learnt though, by cheap, buy twice!
 

Scott S

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Flamer & ER-6F
Pre 'adjustment for cup spacing' the holes would look like this.

b87de942.jpg


Out of interest, why did you go for the Eibach bolts instead of the ones supplied with the suspension? I have done the same, but that was because I thought i'd have more adjustment with the Eibach ones but in the end I think there's about the same adjustment.
 
  clio 182
I found the standard ones like putty! The washer just rounded and the bolt would spin freely without adjusting anything. I adjusted mine alot though trying to get a good set up for track.
 
  ITB'd MK1
slotting the hole is fine, it can't go anywhere. However you'll never get more than about 0.5deg of camber. This is why I sell Vmaxx as my budget option, they have completely redesigned brackets for 60mm fitment. Got another higher quality manufacturer working on a new kit too ;)
 
  clio 182
Even if I replated the bottom of the coilover with a plate and redrilled the hole danny?

I think it could work and I have the people and tools to try it out :approve:
 

Si

  RS Clio 172
That double hole is f**king shocking! It's got virtually no edge landing on it. AVOID.
 
  clio 182
That double hole is f**king shocking! It's got virtually no edge landing on it. AVOID.


To be honest it is missing about a quarter of the surface area. Not good in anyway, but not unsafe/dangerous. I just want proper adjustment for camber!
 
  ITB'd MK1
lot of queens who dont understand force application being over dramatic in here. The bolt is a the bottom of the slotted hole, and the majority of the force is downwards, there's NOWHERE for anything to move. Bolt tightness is what holds the shocks securely anyway.
 
  chumpmobile
yeah the bottom hole dont matter surely, the force is going down so the force will be between the top of the hole resting on the top of the bolt?
 
Based on the images, I would suggest the following:

028-4.jpg

The position of full camber vs the lower bolt has changed. The reason this has happened is that if you were to remake the bolt spacing inline with the existing lower hole, you would run out of material.

It's a mess if I'm honest as it has not only changed the bolt spacing (crudely) it has also completely changed the angle at which the hub attaches to the coilover.

If they were mine I would be replacing the lower assembly with a blank / replacement part.
 
Last edited:
  182cup & 172 racecar
Ktec do the same with making their non cup coilovers fit cups. They just cut away another hole.

I'm interested in knowing if this is an ok thing to do as I'm thinking of buying some bilsteins and either getting them machined by the suppliers or myself.

I would say its not ok,but thats just me.

And I would certainly hope a certain "Racing supplier"would not think it was ok as well.
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
lot of queens who dont understand force application being over dramatic in here. The bolt is a the bottom of the slotted hole, and the majority of the force is downwards, there's NOWHERE for anything to move. Bolt tightness is what holds the shocks securely anyway.
No Queen hear Danny,just think about it,when anybody makes adjustment they have to jack the car up to take the wheel off,where is your downward force now.
It's alright if you go to a garage with ramps etc as it can be adjusted from the underside.
 
  clio 182
i am going to refit the suspension as i had it before on standard settings then look into fabricating them, if its going to be hassle i will just leave it and buy some Bilstiens when evrything else is fixed!

Thanks for all the help folks, very much appreciated!
 
  clio 182
Well people its fixed, and it was a simple mistake...i read through this thread again and Fred is the winner

are you pushing on the hub (with the wheel off) when rotating the camber bolt? lower strut bolt has to be loose too

Pushed against the hub with a bit more force and its perfect, the eibach camber bolt was at the front edge of the top elongated hole! Now its at the back i have about 3.5 degrees of camber and the wheel is nicely in the arch!

Thanks for everyones help again and yes i will be getting better suspension in the future!
 
lot of queens who dont understand force application being over dramatic in here. The bolt is a the bottom of the slotted hole, and the majority of the force is downwards, there's NOWHERE for anything to move. Bolt tightness is what holds the shocks securely anyway.

Less of the attitude!

No-one is suggesting it's gonna fall apart - we're stating the fact that when it's jacked up and the bolts are loose for adjustment - you've got a double bottom hole, a slotted top hole and a camber adjustment bolt. There's no way in hell you're going to get anything lined up ever.

It's a s**t design if it's standard. If they're modified like that it's an awful idea. You can't honestly argue differently?
 
  Lionel Richie
Well people its fixed, and it was a simple mistake...i read through this thread again and Fred is the winner



Pushed against the hub with a bit more force and its perfect, the eibach camber bolt was at the front edge of the top elongated hole! Now its at the back i have about 3.5 degrees of camber and the wheel is nicely in the arch!

Thanks for everyones help again and yes i will be getting better suspension in the future!

sweet! :D
 
  R26 F1
Best way to have about 3 degrees of camber is to buy 4 camber bolts, 2 each side.
Then you'll have a possibilites to set both bolts separetely ( 1 bolt is giving about 1.5 degree of camber )
I think it's not a good idea to drill the holes, because when you're cornering hard, bolts may have to lose their positions in holes, especially when you leave the track or track you're racing is very bumpy. I heared about a situation when the car with drilled holes, bumps in hard and fast corner ( about 80 mph ) and suddenly bolts moved very hard in to the holes and right wheel goes outside. Driver was very lucky because he has a possibility to leave the track safe and he doesn't crashed his car. But it's not soo hard to imagine that was so scary situation.
 


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