ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Subframe mount lower suspension arm hole wear - check your Clio!



I've ordered another 2 washers from Renault same as the one pictured above - only £1.98 for two - welding them in place tomorrow will post pic's and let you know if it stops the noises.....and put the part number up for the washer....

They do have these 2 washers available?? Do u have the part number?
thanks!
 
  RS RIP
Thanks for the pics GavinJ. I've been away all week with no internet access and also haven't had a chance to chase up the dealer for a progress report.

For repairs a number of people on Oz Renault Sport have had the 12mm high tensile washers welded in place and reported a big improvement.

Are you sure about the 12mm, cause this would mean 1,2 cm !? A reallllly thick washer :eek:

My Renault specialist said that in the track cars they have also encountered this and they welded two half moon shapes, almost like these washers, on there !!
 
  Not a poxy Renault
Had a look at mine today (drivers side only) The hole on the bolt head side is enlarged about 3mm, its perfectly round and I can't find any signs of excessive movement causing the widening of the hole. There is no swarf, the bolt has no excessive marks (I'd expect a big groove all around it) and there are no signs on the outside of the frame to suggest the bolt has been wandering. It looks like the hole has been manufactured too big. 2005 182 on 35k:
IMG_1346.gif

IMG_1347.gif
#
IMG_1342.gif
 
  172 Phase 1 & 172 Ph
Right guys i collected the washers today and had them welded in place by my dad, I hadn't looked at the passenger side until today and it had similar wear to the d/side but not as bad, so we did both sides.

The noise on mine was quite loud and could be clearly heard by passengers so much so that they would ask what the clunking was, but in the 8 mile journey to drop my dad off neither of us heard a sound, so result!! so it seems this was indeed the cause of my noise and no doubt the answer to quite a few other peoples mystery noise....

Part number for the washer is - 77 03 053 987 and its called a Rondelle Plate (12 mm) and is £0.99 +vat each.

Will get a picture of the washer welded in place off my phone shortly.
 
  172 Phase 1 & 172 Ph
Washerwelded.jpg


***Bolt pictured is another 12mm bolt as we didn't was to damage the original when welding - we used this to line up the washer - Original bolt refitted after***

Welded area was rust proofed with waxoil after this photo.
 
  RSC 182 Cup
:) Glad to see you got a positive result and fixed the suspension noise Gavin. Has the handling improved as well- all the Aussies who have fixed it have said it has?

PPTom, the hole is enlarged through wear. Even looking at your pics the edge of the hole isn't neatly formed like it would be if drilled that way. Most of the ones I've looked at also show a thickening around the edge of the hole where the subframe metal has been compressed from the bolt moving. I think it's more a case of the soft subframe metal being compressed rather than worn- hence the lack of swarf. The reason the bolt isn't worn is because it's made from a harder metal. (PS: If the hole is supposed to be that big Renault Australia wouldn't be investigating my 182.)
 
Last edited:
  172 Phase 1 & 172 Ph
Cheers Murcod, not sure about my handling as one of my rear shocks has decided fail and piss fluid out so the handling is somewhat interesting at the moment, but got a new shock on order so will let you know when this is fitted.
 
  RSC 182 Cup
Well, an interesting development:
I got in contact with the dealer, Renault have got back to them claiming that the "number 1 hole" (i.e. the one with the wear) is deliberately made larger "for ease of assembly on the production line"
icon_rolleyes.gif
. Renault claim to have measured a new subframe -> however they didn't include the measurements from it (I've asked for the dealer to get that info from Renault- or for a picture with the bolt in place in a new sub frame.)

It still doesn't explain:
1. The knocking noise and how at least two people have cured it by welding on washers,
2. The improvement in handling reported by many people who have gone the washer route,
3. The visible difference in hole sizes in the posted pics
4. The "thickening" of the metal around the hole edge/ lip,
5. The hole elongation reported by at least one Aussie owner and a Renault Specialist Mechanic,
6. How two people can claim the hole in their sub frame isn't enlarged like the others!?
 
Last edited:
  Not a poxy Renault
By the way, on mine I have had no knocking. The only time I ever had is when the ball joint failed on the drivers side wishbone. I replaced the balljoint without replacing the wishbone and have therefore never tampered with the offending bolt. The edge of the hole on mine doesn't look neat because its dirty, its not burred up as the picture might suggest. And I would expect at least some wear on the bolt shaft if its displaced 1.5mm of metal around the whole of the perimeter. The Renault explanation 'seems' plausible, just so long as everyones bolts are correctly torqued, which would explain the washer fix (bolts removed and re-fitted therefore re-tightened) On the other hand, being cynical, they could just be fobbing you off!
The thing is, it took Renault 7 attempts to fix my leaking headlight washer jet and that was with help from their 'technical department' they are such a big company that its even trouble for them to get info. The only way to be sure is if somone could confirm from the original drawings, which is highly unlikely to ever happen
 
Last edited:
  172 Phase 1 & 172 Ph
I just find it hard to believe it would come out of a factory like that, as i'm pretty sure its quite important to have a 'zero tolerance' on any steering/suspension related component, as that sort of movement cannot be beneficial surely?

As for the larger hole to help ease of assembly, i had no problems getting the bolt in and out with it just jacked up using the factory sill jack and in a production line i should imagine those components are assembled in much more ideal working environments....

But like Tom the only true answer is to get some actual dimensions off renault - or if anyone on here who works in dealership could measure a new subframe if they had access to one...

Driven mine again today for 30 + miles and my noise has 100% dissapeared after welding those washers in place.
 
  RSC 182 Cup
I've got no doubt in my mind that they're not telling the entire truth about the hole size. I will be taking it a lot further. ;)

I've even thought about ordering a new sub frame on the condition that they'll pay for it if the hole isn't larger like they claim. Apparently there are none in Australia so I don't even know where they got the measurements from- or if it's Renault Australia who have given that response or Renault France.....

Bottom line is (if I do order a new one) the new subframe could magically get drilled out before I received it :rolleyes:. I've lost faith in them from their dubious response.
 
  Vw caddy tdi
Critical error in my opinion, renault need to address 172 design issues before producing inferior components! The bolt shaft would not wear because is a heat treated tensile bolt where as the subframe is a mild steel mounting piont.
 
  Clio 172 Ph1
So maybe Renault made this hole larger after all? If on 4500km car and on 130 000 car hole is the same.
Strange...
 
  182 cup
Apologies but I’ve skipped some/most of the thread, could someone with an engineering background please explain why the enlarged whole seems perfectly round when in reality the actual motion is mostly up and down.

If this doesn’t make any sense then I’m blaming the four glasses of ron Zacapa rum I’ve just swallowed. :drunk:
 
  ph1 172
OK, one of the Aussie guys found this old thread from 2006 mentioning the same problem. Note the size of the hole and the vehicle has done only 4500km!


123309076_3de3f6f539_o.jpg

if that hole had been caused by the bolt, i would expect to see thred marks on the inside of the hole. A threaded bolt cannot leave the hole smooth on the inside!
 
  ph1 172
IMG_1346.gif


where as this one looks like the bolt has made it bigger. This is the wear you would expect from braking (pushing the rear bolt in)

Apologies but I’ve skipped some/most of the thread, could someone with an engineering background please explain why the enlarged whole seems perfectly round when in reality the actual motion is mostly up and down.

the wishbone doesnt hold the weight of the car, the shock does. The wishbone stops the wheel from flapping back and forward or in and out, both of which will wear it like above.
 
  Not a poxy Renault
^Thats mine I have seen it up close and personal and can assure you that its not worn. I don't think you can draw conclusions from a photograph. By the way, just to qualify my opinion, I graduated as an Engineer 12 years ago and I've spent a couple of years looking at metal fatigue whilst working at an F1 engine manufacturer.

Once again, I have no knocking problems and never have in the last 16k miles of ownership (2 years) and therefore no cause to suspect anything is wrong.
 
  RSC 182 Cup
if that hole had been caused by the bolt, i would expect to see thred marks on the inside of the hole. A threaded bolt cannot leave the hole smooth on the inside!

The bolt has been reversed for the photo- it actually gets inserted through that end and the non-threaded section beneath the bolt head would make contact there. ;)

For anyone who thinks there is no movement, here is a pic from the same car with a view of the marks left by the bush inside the subframe mount. Now tell me if the bush is moving or not in that pic. It shouldn't move at all.

123309112_095018047d_o.jpg
 
  RSC 182 Cup
A cut and paste from OZRS of the latest news:

Another update:

I talked to the RAA Technical Department this morning (Roadside assistance organisiation for UK people.) They weren't too sure if it was an issue or not from the pics of mine and the three 172's. I'm going to forward more photos. They did however say that the centre part of the bush and the bolt should NOT move at all (ie. rotate or move around in the hole.) The rubber section of the bush is supposed to allow for the wishbone (lower arm) movement.

I also just got off the phone to MNR (local dealer)- Renault have not come back and supplied the measurement specs for the rear hole or photos as requested (no surprise there really
icon_rolleyes.gif
). Josh read out their technical explanation - which does make a bit more sense as to why the hole would be larger, it was something along the lines of this:

"The rear hole is larger to allow for manufacturing tolerances. It's larger to allow the wishbone to align itself when the front and rear wishbone bolts are tightened - so the softer sheet metal the subframe is constructed from is not deformed ."

(that's from memory, so only a rough explanation.)

Oh, and he got me a price for a new sub frame - try $1900 list price!
icon_eek.gif
In the "Price of Parts" thread two people (in the past) have been quoted around $1057 IIRC, looks like the price has gone up.
 

Tav

  Clio 197
Might be worth skipping your dealer and contacting Renault direct?

Entirely possible that they are manufactured too large in the first place and also possible that this become a problem later in a cars life.
 
I asked my garage friend to check. He said slightly worn.
But end up he loose the bolt and tighten up again.

Problem solved so far after 2 days of driving!!! I am so happy!!! This problem had annoyed me for 1 year already.

Usually, the noise would get worst when the weather get warmer.
 
  Vw caddy tdi
Obviously when welding washer in place to correct above faults this will slightly effect the final wheel position including camber, castor and tracking ? My question is ifso how to determine the exact position to weld the new tensile washer/ id 12mm as the wear is not uniform? How should the washer be placed in the correct position?? with the lower arm removed? with or without bolt in place? or with lower arm fitted to car ?
 
  Vw caddy tdi
Obviously when welding washer in place to correct above faults this will effect the final wheel position including camber, castor and tracking ? My question is ifso how to determine the exactly position of the new tensile washer/12mm should be as the wear is not uniform? How should the washer be placed in the correct position? with arm removed and bolt in place from reverse? or with arm fitted in position under load on the car ?
 
  MK2 FRS/Mini Type R
I have this knocking / creaking noise when turning going over speed bumps etc...

Reading this thread has given me mixed opinions about the wear in the hole. The only solution I have seen that makes sense was from Butler205.... is this the proven cure then?? a set of poly bushes!??
 

ripp

ClioSport Club Member
  182 FFAT
I am going to order a new subframe in about a month and will tell you guys the price and hole diameters.. worth mentioning that I have the powerflex arm bushes, and unfortunately the outer sleeves supplied came out of the arm a little bit and made some grooves in the subfame mountings..
so if someone is going to fit powerflex bushes I suggest to weld the outer sleeves to the arm like I did in order to fix a future problem
 
Obviously when welding washer in place to correct above faults this will effect the final wheel position including camber, castor and tracking ? My question is ifso how to determine the exactly position of the new tensile washer/12mm should be as the wear is not uniform? How should the washer be placed in the correct position? with arm removed and bolt in place from reverse? or with arm fitted in position under load on the car ?

Castor will be unaffected by welding the washer in any position, and the camber and toe are adjustable so welding the washer on will cause you no problems.

As with any work carried out on the suspension, it is always advised to have geometery rechecked once the work is complete.

I'll be fitting some poly bushes later in the year, so i'll keep an eye out for this hole's condition.

Chris
 

ripp

ClioSport Club Member
  182 FFAT
my 182 suffered an accident so I will certainly need the subframe and both lower arms.. speaking of that can anyone give me the part no for the 182 subframe and maybe a price?.. oh, and is it identical to the 172 subframe?
 
  172 cup & 182
The rear bolt hole on both sides (the ones near the steering-rack) are slightly oversize compared to the rest this helps to align the front suspension.

The problem arises if the bolts are not torqued up properly and can move about to enlarge the holes.

The pictures only appear to show one bolt that was loose and enlarged the hole,
the rest look normal.
 


Top