How long was it ran like that for, do you know?
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Overrun Remap! Bit more than i expected!!
- Thread starter Kingy720
- Start date
How long was it ran like that for, do you know?
Is there a designated thread for this video? Wouldn't mind reading some of the comments.
Fletcher
ClioSport Club Member
My bad 
Last edited:
There was. Cornering technique was covered extensively.
Black Gold 182
If i drive below 4.5k it doesnt do it, only minor burbles. So its only really happening when i drive the car hard/hardish, which is pretty rare. I'd say i'll be rarely hitting over 4.5k once or twice a day....is this enough to cause damage? I really cant make my mind up. Going through bridges/tunnels etc is absolutly hilarious no matter how much of a C*** i look but i dont really NEED the map and if its going to do damage with how much i will use it i'll probably switch to the 98 RON map.
After driving the car today i must say im even more impressed with the actual map. The revs drop considerably slower when changing gear, and as i like to change pretty slow and gentle its made the gearbox seem like it changes a hell of alot smoother. Before when changing gently somtimes the revs would drop a little too much and it would cause jerky changes or the actual gear slotting into position would feel a little notchy as it wasnt properly rev matched. Now its made the car an absolute pleasure to drive.
Yes it will cause damage. See it as each time it pop's, your getting a punch in the face. One of those will break your nose. Just when is the question.
Just to drag this back up.
Did a datalog on one earlier.
It showed an AFR of around 22:1 and ign advance -18 through to -13 degrees.
Looks safe
Awesome Dan, thanks for remembering. Very interesting numbers and still a bad idea haha
and for the people who don't understand that and carry on "cos its wicked", those figures are..................infact, just carry on being wicked
Please explain them for people who doesn't know what it means!
Ol’ Tarby
ClioSport Moderator
Clio 220 Trophy
Why is it Chip is always banned when ya need him lol
Exactly what I was thinking!
BoatNonce
ClioSport Club Member
AFR, or air fuel ratio, should be 14-15ish to one in an ideal world (think it's something like 14.7). Higher number means lean, lower means rich. Lean causes detonation (basically an explosion instead of a burn) and raises exhaust gas temperature.
Ignition advance is when the spark plug fires relative to the piston. 0 is top dead centre, when the piston is at the very top of the cylinder, positive numbers mean the spark occurs whilst the piston is coming up, and negative is when the piston is coming down (or retardation, which is a pretty good word for this really). That amount of retardation will generate a lot of extra heat which again leads to increased exhaust gas temperature.
Basically it adds up to burnt out exhaust valves and a generally f**ked engine.
Ol’ Tarby
ClioSport Moderator
Clio 220 Trophy
Have you copied and pasted that from one of Chip's old posts? Lol
BoatNonce
ClioSport Club Member
Nope, I wrote it.
Basically what mcg said.
14.7:1 (14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel) is what's known as the stoichometric mix (stoich), or perfect chemical burn. On cruise, (I.e 70mph in 5th) you want it to be as economic as possible, so lean it out slightly. Around 15-15.3 is acceptable. Any more than this and it's too slow of a burn and means less power, and there fore more throttle etc.
On full throttle you want it to be rich, this is because the burn of the fuel is hotter than the melting point of the piston and you add fuel to this to partially cool it down, but it also produces a more controlled burn being rich. You want really between 12.4 and 13 really, but the odd spike above 13 won't do any harm, aslong as it's still below 13.5, on an NA engine anyway, with boosted applications you want to be below 12:1 really, my supercharged one was a proper angry engine at 12:1, but for safety it was mapped to 11.5:1.
With ign advance, it's adding the spark advance (advance is timing it to get the peak amount of burn/cylinder. What you really want for peak power is an ignition value that puts peak cylinder pressure at around 15 degrees after TDC generally. But it's not always possible. That's why sometimes more boost can mean no more power as you have to r****d the timing to avoid det and then end up with peak pressure too late. But is to get it so that the burn is not fighting the piston on its compression stroke, this is what's known as det, and common indicators of this are broken spark plug tips, and burnt out pistons (or is very common on the F4, broken ring lands) mapping these takes time and knowledge, rushing them creates issues as does lack of knowledge/ignorance. When mapping ignition, taking an engine into det is not great for them, but absolutely unnecessary on a dyno, as you can monitor the tractive effort on a certain point and keep adding ignition until it stops making more power. After this there is zero point in adding more ignition, as it will not make any more power, but start getting towards the danger zone
14.7:1 (14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel) is what's known as the stoichometric mix (stoich), or perfect chemical burn. On cruise, (I.e 70mph in 5th) you want it to be as economic as possible, so lean it out slightly. Around 15-15.3 is acceptable. Any more than this and it's too slow of a burn and means less power, and there fore more throttle etc.
On full throttle you want it to be rich, this is because the burn of the fuel is hotter than the melting point of the piston and you add fuel to this to partially cool it down, but it also produces a more controlled burn being rich. You want really between 12.4 and 13 really, but the odd spike above 13 won't do any harm, aslong as it's still below 13.5, on an NA engine anyway, with boosted applications you want to be below 12:1 really, my supercharged one was a proper angry engine at 12:1, but for safety it was mapped to 11.5:1.
With ign advance, it's adding the spark advance (advance is timing it to get the peak amount of burn/cylinder. What you really want for peak power is an ignition value that puts peak cylinder pressure at around 15 degrees after TDC generally. But it's not always possible. That's why sometimes more boost can mean no more power as you have to r****d the timing to avoid det and then end up with peak pressure too late. But is to get it so that the burn is not fighting the piston on its compression stroke, this is what's known as det, and common indicators of this are broken spark plug tips, and burnt out pistons (or is very common on the F4, broken ring lands) mapping these takes time and knowledge, rushing them creates issues as does lack of knowledge/ignorance. When mapping ignition, taking an engine into det is not great for them, but absolutely unnecessary on a dyno, as you can monitor the tractive effort on a certain point and keep adding ignition until it stops making more power. After this there is zero point in adding more ignition, as it will not make any more power, but start getting towards the danger zone
182
The blue ones my car :0 - but this video is of the previous owner! No pops and bangs anymore!!
