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Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project [Year 3 - Engine and Chassis Rebuild]
JDM Dc2
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
One of the jobs on my to-do list was to paint/powdercoat the most recent seam welded subframe. After I welded up the first one and had it powdercoated, then realised it was bent and would not fit the car I got another one from Northy.
It was welded up and put straight onto the car before Oulton Park (which I missed) and was just bare metal. Ive got away with it over the past few weeks due to the decent weather, but even so it had started to rust. Its not stopped raining today so decided to make the effort and get it off once I got home at 5pm.
30 mins later everything was disconnected and the subframe just needed lowering down from the car...
Removed the steering rack...
Ideally I would want to get this powdercoated, but I just havent got the time to wait for it to be done and the car be in bits. So I picked up some cheap Hammerite - £9 for 2.5 Litres. Winston if your reading this, Brooky saved the day again LOL.
Got on with painting...
All painted up - just leaving it to dry tonight then back on tomorrow. Another job off the list I guess!
Oh, another small delivery this morning too...
Managed to win a 172 Cup master cylinder on eBay for £10 earlier too, cheapest I could find before that was £30-£40. Should do the job a bit better than my current Mk1 1.2 master cylinder
More soon!
One of the jobs on my to-do list was to paint/powdercoat the most recent seam welded subframe. After I welded up the first one and had it powdercoated, then realised it was bent and would not fit the car I got another one from Northy.
It was welded up and put straight onto the car before Oulton Park (which I missed) and was just bare metal. Ive got away with it over the past few weeks due to the decent weather, but even so it had started to rust. Its not stopped raining today so decided to make the effort and get it off once I got home at 5pm.
30 mins later everything was disconnected and the subframe just needed lowering down from the car...
Removed the steering rack...
Ideally I would want to get this powdercoated, but I just havent got the time to wait for it to be done and the car be in bits. So I picked up some cheap Hammerite - £9 for 2.5 Litres. Winston if your reading this, Brooky saved the day again LOL.
Got on with painting...
All painted up - just leaving it to dry tonight then back on tomorrow. Another job off the list I guess!
Oh, another small delivery this morning too...
Managed to win a 172 Cup master cylinder on eBay for £10 earlier too, cheapest I could find before that was £30-£40. Should do the job a bit better than my current Mk1 1.2 master cylinder
More soon!
JDM Dc2
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
thought you ran the ZS master cyl.?
thought you ran the ZS master cyl.?
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Nope, Adams didnt fit, and it was only a 16mm piston which is the same as the BeeBop/Mk1 1.2 master cylinder. The 1.2 one was only ever fitted as a quick fix to cure the issue I had with having to pump the pedal numerous times to stop, and I never got round to sorting it properly...
The 172 Cup cylinder is 23mm piston, which is substantially bigger, and larger than the standard Valver one. Hopefully it will give a better pedal feel and shorter travel. The pedal at the moment has quite a lot of travel before it does much...
Nope, Adams didnt fit, and it was only a 16mm piston which is the same as the BeeBop/Mk1 1.2 master cylinder. The 1.2 one was only ever fitted as a quick fix to cure the issue I had with having to pump the pedal numerous times to stop, and I never got round to sorting it properly...
The 172 Cup cylinder is 23mm piston, which is substantially bigger, and larger than the standard Valver one. Hopefully it will give a better pedal feel and shorter travel. The pedal at the moment has quite a lot of travel before it does much...
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Yeah pretty much.
Dogbone Mount
Track Rod Ends
Steering Column
2x Support Arms (13mm's)
4 x Subframe Bolts
And lower it down. Bit more of a pain in the a*se if you have PAS though, and still a pain if your using any sort of F7 manifold that goes down under the subframe... Its pretty easy on this as the F4 downpipe goes above the subframe through the gap!
Yeah pretty much.
Dogbone Mount
Track Rod Ends
Steering Column
2x Support Arms (13mm's)
4 x Subframe Bolts
And lower it down. Bit more of a pain in the a*se if you have PAS though, and still a pain if your using any sort of F7 manifold that goes down under the subframe... Its pretty easy on this as the F4 downpipe goes above the subframe through the gap!
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
why two more R888's?
know anywhere selling them dirt cheap?
why two more R888's?
know anywhere selling them dirt cheap?
Track valver + Ibiza FR
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Are you flipping joking! I know how much you paid for these, £50 and we're talking
Yours for £70 a tyre
Are you flipping joking! I know how much you paid for these, £50 and we're talking
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
14's plskthxbixx
14's plskthxbixx
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Right then...
Subframe was dry so set about re-fitting it to the car. I thought I would fit the 'new' driveshaft Jams picked up for me at the same time, so I didnt have to strip stuff down to do it.
Drained the box oil, removed the shaft...
Then fitted the subframe, connected everything up. Rerouted a few bits like the clutch cable and a few wires etc..
Then the 'new' driveshaft...
Re-filled the gearbox oil, connected up the hub/track rod end/etc. Everything tight and back on the wheels, sorted - or so I thought.
Took it for a quick drive, anything above 20mph and you get a horrendous vibrating noise which I instantly thought was driveshaft related. Got the car rolling and clutched down - same feeling/noise. Got it back and jacked it up, no play in the shaft, although it was a bit 'notchy' when turning the wheel off the floor. Pushed and pulled a few things but everything seemed fine. Took it for another run and exactly the same, couldnt go above 20mph as the wheels would have probably dropped off.
By this point I was pretty pissed off, so got it up on stands again and drained the box oil. Removed the hub and 'new' driveshaft, and put my old one back in place. Bolted everything back together and re-filled the gearbox oil. Back on its wheels and out for a run again - perfect! No vibrations or anything, just how it was.
Completely f*cked driveshaft? I thinkso.
Right then...
Subframe was dry so set about re-fitting it to the car. I thought I would fit the 'new' driveshaft Jams picked up for me at the same time, so I didnt have to strip stuff down to do it.
Drained the box oil, removed the shaft...
Then fitted the subframe, connected everything up. Rerouted a few bits like the clutch cable and a few wires etc..
Then the 'new' driveshaft...
Re-filled the gearbox oil, connected up the hub/track rod end/etc. Everything tight and back on the wheels, sorted - or so I thought.
Took it for a quick drive, anything above 20mph and you get a horrendous vibrating noise which I instantly thought was driveshaft related. Got the car rolling and clutched down - same feeling/noise. Got it back and jacked it up, no play in the shaft, although it was a bit 'notchy' when turning the wheel off the floor. Pushed and pulled a few things but everything seemed fine. Took it for another run and exactly the same, couldnt go above 20mph as the wheels would have probably dropped off.
By this point I was pretty pissed off, so got it up on stands again and drained the box oil. Removed the hub and 'new' driveshaft, and put my old one back in place. Bolted everything back together and re-filled the gearbox oil. Back on its wheels and out for a run again - perfect! No vibrations or anything, just how it was.
Completely f*cked driveshaft? I thinkso.
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
that's bad news for me then, I was worried about my M/C as it's the same dia as yours, feels like a lot of travel in my car. I was thinking about trying another brake bleed as I didn't spend too long doing it. I'll be interested to see how you get on with this, maybe I'll try a swap next time it's all in bits.
Bad news on the driveshaft. I suggest you buy a new CV and swap that in.
that's bad news for me then, I was worried about my M/C as it's the same dia as yours, feels like a lot of travel in my car. I was thinking about trying another brake bleed as I didn't spend too long doing it. I'll be interested to see how you get on with this, maybe I'll try a swap next time it's all in bits.
Bad news on the driveshaft. I suggest you buy a new CV and swap that in.
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
The suspension needed setting up so the 205/50 R888s would fit on and run fine, so it all had to come off to be adjusted and setup from scratch.
The other day I did the drivers side, then got to the passenger side and the coilover would not budge, the height adjustment rings were siezed. So I had to put the drivers side back to how it was and then sort it today...
My coilovers have had grease on the threads and then duct tape over them, but it seemed to make no difference and they were still crusty as f*ck. The locking rings would just not move - so off it all came...
Stripped it down to the shock and locking rings, then LOTS of Heat, C-Spanners and a Hammer they started to move...
Although there were a few bits of metal shavings/crap left in the threads, had to pick it all out with a blade...
Then ran the locking rings up and down the coilover with copper grease on the threads until they spun freely by hand. The whole reason I needed to adjust the coilovers in the first place was to raise it slightly to fit the R888's on, so I raised it 4 threads from where it was, 40 from the bottom now.
Cleaned up the springs etc and re-assembled them...
Then fitted back to the car...
I did both sides, both run freely now but I need a better method of protecting the threads - f*ck doing any of that again!
Also, adjusted the top mounts before I set the camber on the shock. Added more camber and mroe castor on the top mount to move the shock away from the tyre, then set 2.6 degrees negative on the hub/shock...
Last job was the tracking now everything had changed. Took a while to get right but its pretty much spot on now - even though the passenger side track rod end locking nut was siezed, more heat and eventually got there!
More soon.
The suspension needed setting up so the 205/50 R888s would fit on and run fine, so it all had to come off to be adjusted and setup from scratch.
The other day I did the drivers side, then got to the passenger side and the coilover would not budge, the height adjustment rings were siezed. So I had to put the drivers side back to how it was and then sort it today...
My coilovers have had grease on the threads and then duct tape over them, but it seemed to make no difference and they were still crusty as f*ck. The locking rings would just not move - so off it all came...
Stripped it down to the shock and locking rings, then LOTS of Heat, C-Spanners and a Hammer they started to move...
Although there were a few bits of metal shavings/crap left in the threads, had to pick it all out with a blade...
Then ran the locking rings up and down the coilover with copper grease on the threads until they spun freely by hand. The whole reason I needed to adjust the coilovers in the first place was to raise it slightly to fit the R888's on, so I raised it 4 threads from where it was, 40 from the bottom now.
Cleaned up the springs etc and re-assembled them...
Then fitted back to the car...
I did both sides, both run freely now but I need a better method of protecting the threads - f*ck doing any of that again!
Also, adjusted the top mounts before I set the camber on the shock. Added more camber and mroe castor on the top mount to move the shock away from the tyre, then set 2.6 degrees negative on the hub/shock...
Last job was the tracking now everything had changed. Took a while to get right but its pretty much spot on now - even though the passenger side track rod end locking nut was siezed, more heat and eventually got there!
More soon.
JDM Dc2
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Nice Blow torch
Glad you got that sorted!
Nice Blow torch
Glad you got that sorted!
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Made my own camber guage then use some maths to work out the angle...
Tracking wise I use some straight sections of metal, ruler and some maths - works well enough for me for now. The amount it comes apart I cant be bothered forking out £30 every week to have it done by some monkey at a tyre place lol.
Made my own camber guage then use some maths to work out the angle...
Tracking wise I use some straight sections of metal, ruler and some maths - works well enough for me for now. The amount it comes apart I cant be bothered forking out £30 every week to have it done by some monkey at a tyre place lol.
Paddy_g46
ClioSport Club Member
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Is the 172 item a straight swap or do all the lines need modification?
Is the 172 item a straight swap or do all the lines need modification?
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Ive got a guide thats half finished with contributions from various people, need to crack on and finish it off really.
Already wrote a wiring guide and a few other bits that have been used by quite a few people now, just needs the parts/fitting one finishing. Il try and get it done over the next week or so!
Ive got a guide thats half finished with contributions from various people, need to crack on and finish it off really.
Already wrote a wiring guide and a few other bits that have been used by quite a few people now, just needs the parts/fitting one finishing. Il try and get it done over the next week or so!
Paddy_g46
ClioSport Club Member
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
I would really like to see the parts guide so please get that done asap!
Also, have you managed to wire up the oil gauge pod to the f4r?
I would really like to see the parts guide so please get that done asap!
Also, have you managed to wire up the oil gauge pod to the f4r?
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Yeah, you have to use a T-Piece on the front of the engine - so you can run the oil pressure switch and oil pressure sender from the same hole (Back in Feb/March 2009 in this thread).... Oil level/temp works too, just gotta swap the sensor from the front of the 172 block near the sump for the Mk1 item
Yeah, you have to use a T-Piece on the front of the engine - so you can run the oil pressure switch and oil pressure sender from the same hole (Back in Feb/March 2009 in this thread).... Oil level/temp works too, just gotta swap the sensor from the front of the 172 block near the sump for the Mk1 item
maynard
ClioSport Club Member
ph2 172 track car
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
cracking stuff, i don't think my gcse maths pass will be of much use if i tried to attempt it myself!
cracking stuff, i don't think my gcse maths pass will be of much use if i tried to attempt it myself!
TVR Cerbera
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
I have the formula on an excel spreadsheet if you need it
I have the formula on an excel spreadsheet if you need it
Re: Mk1 F4R/172'd Track Car Project
Bloooor came down this morning as he wanted his K-Tec short shifter swapping for a different one - as the K-Tec one was rattling and he didnt like the feel of it.
After a lot of messing around with the circlip for the gear housing under the car between the exhaust, managed to get it removed and swapped round. Mainly because I was being lazy and couldnt be bothered removing the exhaust to get better access.
I had agreed to have his K-Tec short shifter off him to replace mine on the Mk1, as a lot of you know my gear knob used to fall off all the time and was generally s*hite lol.
Mk1 vs K-Tec...
Again I was lazy and couldnt be bothered removing my exhaust or gear housing to get to the circlip properly - mine seemed to be even tighter and took ages to get out. Got it off in the end and the old shifter removed...
Bloooors attempt at fixing the rattling spring inside the knob, lol...
Fitted the shifter into the housing, more time wasted f*cking about with the circlip when getting it back in but it seemed to go together fine...
Outer sleeve and the knob fitted...
Done! As always when Bloooor comes down there was no shortage of laughs, got quite a bit more done on his car and hopefully he is sorted to go to Le-Mans now.
More soon!
Bloooor came down this morning as he wanted his K-Tec short shifter swapping for a different one - as the K-Tec one was rattling and he didnt like the feel of it.
After a lot of messing around with the circlip for the gear housing under the car between the exhaust, managed to get it removed and swapped round. Mainly because I was being lazy and couldnt be bothered removing the exhaust to get better access.
I had agreed to have his K-Tec short shifter off him to replace mine on the Mk1, as a lot of you know my gear knob used to fall off all the time and was generally s*hite lol.
Mk1 vs K-Tec...
Again I was lazy and couldnt be bothered removing my exhaust or gear housing to get to the circlip properly - mine seemed to be even tighter and took ages to get out. Got it off in the end and the old shifter removed...
Bloooors attempt at fixing the rattling spring inside the knob, lol...
Fitted the shifter into the housing, more time wasted f*cking about with the circlip when getting it back in but it seemed to go together fine...
Outer sleeve and the knob fitted...
Done! As always when Bloooor comes down there was no shortage of laughs, got quite a bit more done on his car and hopefully he is sorted to go to Le-Mans now.
More soon!
