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ilya's 172 #BECAUSE_RACE_CAR

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
Did it pass ? Is it fully road legal now ?

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Just 🤫... yeah all up and running. Did about 5hours of toad testing so far. Main issues fuel gauge is wrong (run out of petrol yesterday) and steering very twitchy and unpredictable. Hard to explain but feels like no feedback, too much assistance (even with epas fully off) and no self centring. Trying to figure out how to solve that. Other than that it’s awesome!


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pule333

ClioSport Club Member
Little update.
Think I figured out why my wheels wasn’t returning. Not enough castor. (I hope I am right)
When last year I bough new wishbones to strengthen I didn’t even realise there were so many different ones.
This is the original that came with the car:
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this is the one I bough (supposedly for 172/182 sport) and had on my car currently
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And this is the CUP wishbones
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Difrence between what I had and Cup is 7.57mm !! Massive! No wonder the wheel didn’t have a tendency to return
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So decided to quickly chop the old ones and reweld to CUP wishbones. Wait for paint to dry and fit back. Ready for Donnington on Monday!
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robzracing

ClioSport Club Member
Better turn-in but more importantly a better contact patch with the wheels turned and under load. Potentially reducing under steer.


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pule333

ClioSport Club Member
Happy to report, it fixed 80-90% of the issues I was having. Now wheel has a tendency to return and there is nice weight to it in corners. Still not 100% not sure why. Perhaps it’s the feeling EPAS gives anyways. Will see how it behaves on the track on Monday! But look at the difference
Before:
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after
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Chambers_RS

ClioSport Club Member
I believe they do. I also have a feeling that only Cup wishbones are sold by Renault now but I may be wrong.


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This is true.

Even at work we have warning notes that arms and rear shocks part numbers are for all Clios bar sports and don’t not sell so we don’t have any issues
 

1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
There's a peice of metal that hangs down on the inside of the front arches where the inner arch and wing rail are welded together, it will probably need grinding flush or hammering flat as in fast corners can scrape on the tyre and cut chunks out. 3 of us had to modify it at Cadwell
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
There's a peice of metal that hangs down on the inside of the front arches where the inner arch and wing rail are welded together, it will probably need grinding flush or hammering flat as in fast corners can scrape on the tyre and cut chunks out. 3 of us had to modify it at Cadwell
Got a picture by any chance?? Struggling to picture it


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1985michael182

ClioSport Club Member
So right at the front of the wheel. I had to use a hammer to bend it out of the way so it wouldn't catch the wheel in hard cornering.
182ff with Oz F1 et37 and 16mm front spacers
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pule333

ClioSport Club Member
Alright, this quite an important milestone update! it's first proper outing on the track! Donnington 20/08/2018
overall very very happy! plenty of power! amazing grip on full slicks! steering works ok.
first, i am gonna spam this with pictures hehe. not for your pleasure but more for the archives hehe.
 

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bloke

ClioSport Club Member
I believe they do. I also have a feeling that only Cup wishbones are sold by Renault now but I may be wrong.


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I thought the same as it does come up as the later one but am sure someone posted that the earlier are still available through Renault but must be special order or something on those lines.
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
there were a few issues through out the day.
main issue was oil temperatures. after a few laps pushing hard, i could easily reach 128-130 deg. not comfortable with that so ordered a bigger oil cooler, 25 row. the one i have is 10 row mocal. also i am thinking the sensor scaling might be slightly off so gonna look in to that as well. funny enough, when i would follow a normal NA clio for 3-4 laps, temps would barely touch 110 deg. so i know its not just overheating but only when you pushing hard. my best time was 1:48
for the international layout (the one with a long hairpin at the bottom) but i think it might not have timed it from correct spots at this time. so realistic time is more like 1:51
second issue was brakes. i actually had them disappear on me once before the hairpin and had to venture into the kitty litter for a little detour. not sure what it is. it has high carbon discs, CL6 pads, and RBF660 fluid. I will bleed the system again just to make sure. but i wasn't happy with the brakes at all. strangely enough, it would happen mostly after long straights. had to pump the brakes most of the time to make them work. need to look at that. could be the pads. or incorrect bedding in.
also i forgot to lock the bonnet on my second outing so this happened... f**k sake what a muppet! here goes £300 quid heated screen..
oh well only have myself to blame...
and almost lost a wheel on the very last lap. as i didnt have spigot rings for my OZ sparco wheels (completly forgot i needed them) so one of the studs got lost. and i ruined on of the hubs in the process. oh well, my fault again.

Next outing is at Rockingham on the 3rd Sep. hopefully, i can fix everything before that date!
 

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ZachB

ClioSport Club Member
Could be knockback on the brakes, happens to me all the time. Apart from the quick dabs Im looking at ap racing anti knockback springs to put in as well which are quite cheap
 

ZachB

ClioSport Club Member
Also I think the rears are really bad for this, just road driving I push the brakes and pull the handbrake up every so often and its clear that the pads are not seated very well as the brakes come up super sharp after I do it, for about 2 stops lol.

Im looking at full Laguna mk1 rear setup which is a separate hub and disc, also the callipers are the same as vx220 ones so there are tons of pad options. Still searching about it as im not sure about the stub bolt spacing. I think I read its what some cup racers used to use
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
Been playing science today lol.
The correct way of scaling a temp sensor. Heat up in a tin of oil to 140deg. And record voltages as it drops.
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Incase someone will find my science useful, here is the sensor I bough: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/163041712258
And here is the table of values. Below 5deg I have estimated it.
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Tags: oil temperature sensor sender voltage scale calibration mv DTA s60pro


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JB21

ClioSport Club Member
Freaking awesome :) more grip than I could handle. Not used to cornering speeds like that


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Gutted i never got to use them. Guessing the DIY heat treatment worked?

Looked on rails at Donny, goes really well and decent peddling
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
Gutted i never got to use them. Guessing the DIY heat treatment worked?

Looked on rails at Donny, goes really well and decent peddling
I don’t have any other reference cos never driven on slicks. But omg!!! I don’t wanna drive on anything else now!


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pule333

ClioSport Club Member
One day you manage to loose some weight, another day you gain a bit 🤣
Decided that brake cooling was ineffective, well nonexistent. So decided to fabricate some deflectors. No idea how well it will work or if it will catch on anything but not gonna weld the ends just yet. Will test at rockingham on Monday first. Tested with wheels on full lock to lock and theee is still half inch clearance. Looks good tho..
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Need some 76mm ducting to direct the air more efficiently
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