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ilya's 172 #BECAUSE_RACE_CAR

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#1
Hello everyone!
I think it's time to start my own build tread.
Mainly to keep record of what has been done to the car and how I butcher it up in the only way I know how :) and perhaps to get advice and pointers from fellow members!

Little history,
Russian born, living in the uk for the past 20years. By day I am commercial product photographer and by night self convinced racecar driver ha ha.. aren't we all lol. Only joking! I've been racing my Daily for a few years now. Done 20+ track days so still a newbie! Lots to learn!
I came to realisation that as Awsome as my car is on the track!!! It's way to expensive to run and way to heavy!!
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So for about 6 months I been planting a ceed to my wife that I want a proper race car :) dedicated machine I can trash around the track and spend our family money on lol. She seemed to be ok with it after I said it's a way of saving money on petrol and brake pads lol! What a lie that was!

So in March 2017 after searching for a few months, for car to buy I came across this "gem"
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Was at 99p auction with a no reserve a non runner, finest pile of French poop! I though it was perfect! 83k miles, zillion owners, clutch pedal on the floor, non running, mouldy interior, questionable service history, no MOT Or Tax. etc.. so after few days it turned out I owned this skip on wheel for just over £400.! result!
Got it delivered home and to my surprise! Very straight body and almost no rust!!! Some surface rust underneath but that's to be expected! So after a quick wash, it was quite clear that I got a decent shell of a car IF I can get it to run lol!
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Changed oil and coolant, checked spark plugs, new battery, few blows with a hammer on the starter motor and guess what!!! It's alive!

So now that I have a running motor, I knew that first thing to do would be sell/trash all interior and other bits Race cars don't need! Get it ready to be caged!
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Compared to my Audi this car is a breeze to disassemble! No headen fixings or special tools needed! Literally 13mm spanner, screwdriver and a large hammer haha! Very satisfying!
So interior was out and after a proper chemical clean was in very very good condition!
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sold for around £200. £30 for spare wheel and £20 for the tools.. so now the car cost me less than £200 :) a runner with little to no rust, which ever way you look at it a bargain I think!

Next step was to get rid of the sound deadening.
I went with dry ice method! And Naptha for the residue clean up.

Dry ice was easy! Spread, wait, knock with hammer and pick up the bits! Unsurprisingly weights a lot!
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Cleaning up the residue was a bit of a pain! Partly because naptha is so freaking volatile so even with a carbon mask it was giving me a headache! Even tho this was done outside with all doors open.


Now that the car was clean ish.. was time to remove some bits from the engine including drive shafts to be rebuilt. Inlet manifold and throttle body I sent away to be port matched and polished/painted.
Air con was removed, as well as complete heater matrix.
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So now the car was ready to be caged!
Woohoo because race car! Defo didn't want bolt in jobies! So decided to go with custom cages clubman 6point and add a few extra bit for extra protection and cool kid points Haha! Decided to take to JCWELDFAB in Wellingborough. They did my exhaust on my rs4 and are really really good when it comes to fabricating and the official installers for custom cages.

Now was time to decide what I wanted to do with a car.. hmm. I knew that after a while I would want to enter some kind of competition racing so wanted my mods to be future proof. So gave Ktec a call and ordered most major components from them. Like suspension, brakes, exhaust, few engine components, group N clutch, lightweight fly wheel, Steering wheel, Oil cooler etc. Suspension wise decided to go for their 750 club Spax suspension set up with solid top mounts and black line Polybushes. Brakes decide to keep standard but rebuilt calipers with height carbon discs and CL6 pads, steel lines, rbf660 fluid etc..
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Also ordered 182 manifold and wrapped it up in heat-shield wrap.
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Got pure motor sport shifter, rear axle strengthening kit, air con delete kit and plates for the front suspension arms..
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Xmas came early! But still no car :)
So decided to do a bit of welding. Unfortunately made a noob mistake and got 1.4 rear axle with a smaller antiroll bar in the Center. But not to worried as I can as PMS antiroll bar if it's too soft.
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Now we are in May 2017.
Decided not spend any more on the car before I actually get it back fully caged!

So I started thinking where am I going to build and keep my race car? Hmm.. old garage was basically shed for accumulation of junk and even if it was clear was too small for a race car garage (insert smiley face here lol)

So the idea was to extend the existing garage and widen the new section to use as workshop and remove front wall to make open plan car port, make new roof and job is done!! How hard can it be?
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Well surprisingly a lot of work lol, but nothing too difficult again if you own a big hammer and a box of nails and have access to inter webs for occasional advice on building and materials.

Luckily I have a few friends who were willing to help out with a few jobs here and there like brick laying, digging and roofing, basically anything that involves hard labour.. I mean lifting heavy things lol

Below is a quick 101 in to how to build a glorified man cave.

1. Dig foundations
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2. Lay concreat
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3. Lay the bricks
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4. Put down steel lintel
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5. Surgically remove old roof while building new one so not to move to much junk out of an existing garage. Because to lazy haha.
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6. Modify doors
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7. Electrical first fix
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8.Put down the floor tiles. Went with cheapest most durable option. Pressed concreat tiles. Basically what councils use for paving. Extremely hard wearing, decent looking and cheapppp!
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9. Weld a work bench
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10. Pretend you are Jackson Pollock and paint the walls.
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11. Clad the outside walls with cedar cladding.
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12. Second fix electrics
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13. Test figment on your other car :) sit back, open a beer and contemplate on own goal achievements.
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Now we are in August 2017
Decided I need a compressor since I am going fibreglass panels and most of the car will need painting as well as inside and the cage!
+added benefit of air tools

50L twin piston 3hp 14.1cfh burisch compressor fits very snug between the Bench and the wall.
Also added a shop line with air filter/oiler for tools.
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Got back the Clio! All caged and looking eager he he.
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So first thing first was to add a few bits to the roll cage. B pillar gussets, door bar gussets and 2 extra bars. One behind the seat and one underneath the dash.
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Remove doors, glass and boot. Ready for figment of fiberglass panels before the thing can be prepped and pained!!!
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So that's about it for now :)
Next updates will be a little smaller ha ha this was 6 months worth of stuff!
 

JB21

ClioSport Club Member
#3
Great read mate, cant believe it took you 20+ track days to realise that the Audi was not really an appropriate track car, bet it cost an absolute fortune in consumables.

Subscribed :up:
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#4
Great read mate, cant believe it took you 20+ track days to realise that the Audi was not really an appropriate track car, bet it cost an absolute fortune in consumables.

Subscribed :up:
Thank mate! lol I knew rs4 wasn't ideal but boi it's amazing on the track!!!
For example full day at snetterton would consume around 2 tanks of Tesco finest :) race pads just for the front are £400. Usually dead after 4 full days.
oil... well it takes 10L for starters. And you cant put your any old Halfords stuff in lol.. amazingly capable car!!! But heavy!
 

JB21

ClioSport Club Member
#6
Thank mate! lol I knew rs4 wasn't ideal but boi it's amazing on the track!!!
For example full day at snetterton would consume around 2 tanks of Tesco finest :smile: race pads just for the front are £400. Usually dead after 4 full days.
oil... well it takes 10L for starters. And you cant put your any old Halfords stuff in lol.. amazingly capable car!!! But heavy!
Yeah used to have a tuned Mazda 6 MPS which is similar in weight as an RS4 and lasted all of one track day before I sold it and bought the Clio, near double the costs of consumables compared to the Clio, bet the Audi is more than quadruple the consumable costs of a Clio.:tired:
 
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pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#7
Actually they have gone down in price you can potentially pick one up with 130k ish in the clock, for 14k ish.. will need 2-3k to put it right but nevertheless.
But nothing beats the high revving V8 ;)
 

JP83

South Central-Oxfordshire
ClioSport Area Rep
#9
Looks awesome!
I also have a sub £400 banger I've turned into a track car, and it's sporting green bits! 😂
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#14
Trial fitted the fiberglass boot. And ph1 lights.
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made a long backing plate out of aluminium to spread the load. Will need to order some locking pins as well as not planning to use original lock.
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Cut off the door brackets for hinges and ordered some countersunk m8 bolts so I can trial fit over the weekend. Get this beitch ready for paint!
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Also removed the interior loom... to say I am puzzled by what to do with it now is an understatement I want complete new wiring ideally.
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Also trial fitted the Mk1 dashboard. Will need to make some brackets to attach securely to the cage
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Stuiemc

ClioSport Club Member
#18
Where did you get your fibreglass panels from? I quite like the grey colour they come in. Do you have to drill your own holes etc or so they come pre drilled?
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#19
Where did you get your fibreglass panels from? I quite like the grey colour they come in. Do you have to drill your own holes etc or so they come pre drilled?
From CCF-fibreglass
Google them. Great quality and nice fitment . But you do have to drill/cut all your own holes. Also for the doors you need to reuse original fixings that actually welded to doors. So they will be trash afterwards..
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#20
Over the bank holiday weekend didnt have a chance to do much. But some progress had been made.
Fitted PMS shifter.
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Also welded some brackets and trial fitted the MK1 dash.
Quite pleased with how it looks.
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Test fitted the seat, and lowered the steering column in to position. And asked a mate to make car noises ha ha..
all looks good so far.
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But not 100% happy how the seat will be attached. Originally bought x-low subframes but now decided to weld proper seat mounting rails. So they will be up for sale in the next few days and more welding woohoo!
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#21
Made a start on the interior loom. Thought I would practice on the rear one first. So far so good. :) but to be fair it's nothing compared to the main one. Just need to wrap it properly before fitting.
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Also removed old seat frames. Should be able to weld new rails over the weekend! Fairly easy job with a spot weld drill bit
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EVO 4LEX

ClioSport Club Member
#22
Nice work!! Out of interest, in your last pic of the drivers side there is another spot welded piece that runs up towards the pedals.. does this have any purpose or do you think it could be removed too?
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
#29
That'll be staying put if I ever get to that point then!
Cheers Mark and I hope you're keeping well pal!
Yeah I'm good thanks mate! You?

Yeah I read about it and decided against removing it.. for 500g or so it isn't worth it! At least the other ones are gonna be replaced with CDS tubes so structural integrity not compromised.
If you're planning on putting the cage through to the strut tops you'd be fine to remove it tbh.
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#31
Yeah I'm good thanks mate! You?

If you're planning on putting the cage through to the strut tops you'd be fine to remove it tbh.
Yeah don't think I am gonna do that. Won't be able to reach around the tube for welding. Unless I drop the cage through the floor, but than I should have gone for multipoint cage in T45 rather than 6point in CDS... this should be absolutely fine! Actually I do I have a question, I wanna add one more bar (on each side) going from bar behind seat to top of rear mount. Question is, can it be welded to horizontal bar (blue in picture. Easier to weld around) or it has to be welded to vertical (red in picture. Impossible to weld around as is)
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pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#32
Sorry to hijack, but which bit are you referring to?

Also @pule333 What on earth have you got on your feet mate?!? 😂
This bit
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And those are rubber crocks I think haha. Like slippers but rubber. And that's not me by the way. My kiwi friend. You lucky he is wearing anything at all on his feet! What is it with kiwis and walking bare foot everywhere!?
 

JP83

South Central-Oxfordshire
ClioSport Area Rep
#33
This bit
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And those are rubber crocks I think haha. Like slippers but rubber. And that's not me by the way. My kiwi friend. You lucky he is wearing anything at all on his feet! What is it with kiwis and walking bare foot everywhere!?
Ahhh, we'll let you off then. My South African friends are the same. Not so much when they visit here though. Haha.
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
#34
Yeah don't think I am gonna do that. Won't be able to reach around the tube for welding. Unless I drop the cage through the floor, but than I should have gone for multipoint cage in T45 rather than 6point in CDS... this should be absolutely fine! Actually I do I have a question, I wanna add one more bar (on each side) going from bar behind seat to top of rear mount. Question is, can it be welded to horizontal bar (blue in picture. Easier to weld around) or it has to be welded to vertical (red in picture. Impossible to weld around as is)
View attachment 1332816
Well you could weld it there, but it won't have the same strength. It's all about the triangulation mate with a cage to create the strength of the safety cell.
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#35
Well you could weld it there, but it won't have the same strength. It's all about the triangulation mate with a cage to create the strength of the safety cell.
Yeah I realised that. That's why was asking.. how can it be welded on the side close to the bPilar? There is literally few inches of space there.

Surely with it welded to horizontal bar the cage will be stronger if not welded at all due to tight space.?
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
#36
Yeah I realised that. That's why was asking.. how can it be welded on the side close to the bPilar? There is literally few inches of space there.

Surely with it welded to horizontal bar the cage will be stronger if not welded at all due to tight space.?
Sorry mate, wasn't wanting to come across as condescending! Apologies if it did though!
You'd have to leave it all loose and then weld it all up in stages. The usual way with weld in cages is to drill holes in the floor for the cage feet to pass through, then that allows you access to weld around everything. It's a fuckin faff though mate. Try and position it as close to the triangulation point you can weld it all the way around would be my advice. The rest of the main cage will do the job of protecting you anyway.
 

pule333

ClioSport Club Member
#37
Sorry mate, wasn't wanting to come across as condescending! Apologies if it did though!
You'd have to leave it all loose and then weld it all up in stages. The usual way with weld in cages is to drill holes in the floor for the cage feet to pass through, then that allows you access to weld around everything. It's a fuckin faff though mate. Try and position it as close to the triangulation point you can weld it all the way around would be my advice. The rest of the main cage will do the job of protecting you anyway.
Ahh no no mate don't worry your weren't condescending at all :) thanks for your advice! But last thing I wanna do is drop the cage down just for this 2 extra pipes... will take your advice. Need to measure few more times and see how close I can get it to body and actually weld around!
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
#38
Ahh no no mate don't worry your weren't condescending at all :smile: thanks for your advice! But last thing I wanna do is drop the cage down just for this 2 extra pipes... will take your advice. Need to measure few more times and see how close I can get it to body and actually weld around!
Ah good stuff mate! What cage you got out of interest?
 

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