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Icemans Britcar Endurance project 182



  BMW Z4
Older cars didn't have it in the first place.

Remove it all, if you get caught then you can't race. Choice is yours.

Yeh they only have to glance down and see holes in your crossmember and you're done. I don't think cooling will be an issue with this larger rad as it is also thicker cored. The Polo rad was fine just ran a bit hotter on a hot day is all so I'm changing it before it causes problems. This rad looks more racey too which is good for my bling fix this month ;) as I am not allowed to have a Darth Vader bumper :quiet:
 
  Audi A6 & 172 Cup
Is there a link to the technical regulations for this series? Only interested as there's a chance I might be tempted to enter a few of these events at some point.

By the MSA book, they define the "Unitary Chassis" as between the wheel centres so you should be free to do as you please with the the front crossmember. It would seem a bit daft for a series to impose their own regulations that efficetively over rule the MSA's own blue book.
Not wanting to get the wooden spoon out here but in a recent picture of the Burpspeed car they appear to have put some holes in the inner section of the rear 1/4 panels, that is a definite no no in the eyes of the MSA as that is between the wheel centres and classed as part of the chassis. Unless of course the Phase 1 cars came with those holes, in which case I stand corrected but I've never noticed them on any other phase 1 car.
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
Is there a link to the technical regulations for this series? Only interested as there's a chance I might be tempted to enter a few of these events at some point.

By the MSA book, they define the "Unitary Chassis" as between the wheel centres so you should be free to do as you please with the the front crossmember. It would seem a bit daft for a series to impose their own regulations that efficetively over rule the MSA's own blue book.
Not wanting to get the wooden spoon out here but in a recent picture of the Burpspeed car they appear to have put some holes in the inner section of the rear 1/4 panels, that is a definite no no in the eyes of the MSA as that is between the wheel centres and classed as part of the chassis. Unless of course the Phase 1 cars came with those holes, in which case I stand corrected but I've never noticed them on any other phase 1 car.

i did think this, but was then later educated they were done by a motorsport specialist (not someone who is responsible for making holes in golf courses...xxx)
 
  BMW Z4
Ok so we still have a small leak (Couple of drops) gearbox side which I am assuming is from the bloody main cap stoopid French system.

SO

I have bought a syringe and the correct sealer but before I take the gearbox out and the sump off what IS the correct procedure for sealing that f**king c**ting b*****ding cap
 
  Lionel Richie
oh that, are you pushing the crank seal in far enough? no one EVER does on most of the engines i see! I don't use the renault sealer either, if you can shove a torch up into the engine you can then check to see if its 100% sealed, any light coming through - start again!
 
  BMW Z4
Do you apply sealer to the feet and then squirt it in both sides using the syringe till it comes out the sides of the cap? ill check the large O ring
 
  Lionel Richie
no, that never works, i smear it round the block side, checking the corners (just a bit) then squirt it into the grooves and smooth off with my finger

then insert into block and tighten the bolts bit by bit, then torque up, replace crank seal MAKING SURE its all the way in (normally neeeds a whack with a rubber hammer!)
 
  BMW Z4
no, that never works, i smear it round the block side, checking the corners (just a bit) then squirt it into the grooves and smooth off with my finger

then insert into block and tighten the bolts bit by bit, then torque up, replace crank seal MAKING SURE its all the way in (normally neeeds a whack with a rubber hammer!)

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I see.

Ill do it that way. Just gotta take my gearbox off

AGAIN :banghead:
 
  BMW Z4
Hi Ash

Oil temp is on the top of the laminova and is an OMEX blue sensor. I had an adapter welded onto the laminova for this by Mik so the temp gauge sits in the oil flow.

Oil pressure is in the front of the engine using an adapter.

Water temp I have 2 of those. Both are OMEX blue sensors on the thermo housing, one on the top feeds my dash and one on the side feeds the ECU. I will have to ask Troy the reason he used two of them.



Mark.

PS
want pics?
 
Thanks for that Mark :) My oil temp used to be on the cooler too but has never worked so just trying to get it all working for the next race

Ahh good stuff I was going to use a T piece for the pressure so I will order one of those now!

Good idea by Troy as then you have two different readings so you can check I am going to fit a second to mine over winter :)

Thanks for the help Mark!
 
  BMW Z4
Hi Guys

So I have made a concerted effort to get to the bottom of my leaking main crankshaft seal. I think I have finally figured it out with the help of a couple of people on here :)

Look at the pics. See the red arrows, there is a recess there on the main cap. It sits further in than the block (top half) I think when I have been tapping the seal in flush ALL THE WAY round because the bottom half (the cap) sits further in this makes the seal wonky at the bottom and thus it slightly leaks.

With this new seal as you can see I have tapped it in not quite flush at the top (Block) and this has left what looks like a bit more black proud at the bottom although it is level all the way around as I have checked A LOT. I am hoping this one will not leak :)


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Am I right and does that new one look right? I could tap it in a little bit more at the top but didnt want to if not needed..

Mark..
 
Last edited:
  Cup In bits
Im sure someone with more f4r experience will confirm but if there's room to knock it back then do so, there should be a polished part on the crank where previous seal sat and that's what I would aim for unless you can feel a groove when running your finger nail over the polished part then I would move seal accordingly to avoid the lip and not affect clearance with flywheel.
 

MicKPM

ClioSport Trader
  Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
Looks about right to me chap. As above though there's normally a ring that helps.
 
  BMW Z4
Looks about right to me chap. As above though there's normally a ring that helps.

Ill give this one a go then :) Is it right that I have a lip there on the cap? Some other pics i have looked at show it as flush with the block but mine sits inwards slightly?

Mark.
 
  BMW Z4
Put it back together and this time started it up without bothering to refit the subframe, glad I did as it leaked again :banghead:

:banghead:

:banghead:

Took it all off again and this time it did look like it was leaking from the sump gasket at that end! So took the sump off and will fit a new gasket tommorow dohh

:banghead:

:banghead:

I still need someone to tell me if that main end cap should be flush with the block or if it is ok recessed a bit like mine is??????????????????????????????????????????????? Obviously the engine ran ok with it like that because I won at Cadwell LOL

Questions

1. Is my main cap ok like it is?

2. Do you put sealer on the sump gasket or fit dry?
 
  BMW Z4
Hi Guys

So I have now fitted yet another new oil seal and a new sump gasket but this time after taking extensive measurements I figured out that if you whack the oil seal all the way home the seal falls off the back of the crank dohhh. The optimum for my crank is to leave a lip of between 2.5 to 3.5mm so I did. As you can see I still have a leak although the oil seal and main cap are both bone dry now.

The leak appears to be coming from either the sump bolts or a hairline crack in the sump that I can't see. Do they crack there? Is that common?

Anyway i have ordered a new sump now



SNV82715.jpg



The face of this is wet up to the bolt


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As you can see this is totally dry now


SNV82718.jpg



The drip, its not much which leads me to think its just a very small crack.


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Mark

PS
I had a MASSIVE DOHHHHHHHHHHHH Moment. I bolted it all back together and started it up without putting the oil back in the sump Oooopppsss. Thankfully I realised within about 15 seconds and turned it off. Refilled the oil and started it again and have 42psi oil pressure at 4000 rpm and 18 at idle when hot. Sounds ok too, no rattles :) Think I caught it in time phewwww.... I guess it helps it was slick 50d...
 
Last edited:
  182 trackday racer
That oil is almost certainly coming trom one of the bolts. I have not been working on one single clio that was not like that. Nothing to worry about IMO
 
  Clio 172
Have to admire your persistance with this leak Mark, I would have thrown the towel in by now and taken it somewhere to be sorted. Kudos to you sir.
 
  BMW Z4
Have to admire your persistance with this leak Mark, I would have thrown the towel in by now and taken it somewhere to be sorted. Kudos to you sir.

It's nearly ran out!!

I was under the car for the 4th time, or was it the 5th time (I forget it's been so many now) to take the box off and was cleaning gasket off the bottom of the block and moved my long bladed stanley to my left hand and then rubbed the block with my right hand and sliced my thumb on the blade (Deep) I just looked at it and shouted out f**k ITTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT really loud and then went in the house and packed in.

Got a new sump coming tommorow and am gonna put some sealer on the threads of ALL those bolts too as each one goes in. Why and how does it leak from the bolts though? That's the main cap bolt. Does the thread go all the way through into the engine on that one and then you get leakage down it? Or does the oil somehow get past the sump gasket and then drip down the thread.

God I hate that cap design :mad:

Another thing. Do you torque up the sump before or after lining it up with the gearbox mount holes. The first time I did that the holes were slightly out of alignment and I had to loosen the sump a bit and then put the bolts through and then re torque the sump up!


Mark the oh so persistant one...
 
  BMW Z4
Hi Guys


Here are some pictures of my Saxo power steering pump behind the bulkhead. As you can see the pipes run straight down from there to the rack, quite neat really.



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Mark
 
Nice work on the PAS Mark, Its on my list for November :) My pipes are knackered so wanted to get some made do you have any details of what pipes you went with or did NMS do those for you?
 
  BMW Z4
ahh! I've fitted a few dry and never had any leakage problems

So just to get this right as my new sump is arriving tommorow.


1. You fit the gasket dry

2. But you put Rhodorseal on the end cap where the gaps are?


I am also gonna put rhodorseal on the bolt threads themselves to make sure as it does indeed look like the oil is coming down the bolt hole somehow. Damned if I can see how that happens though as the gasket goes around each bolt!!!!


Ok as for PS pipes ill take pics of the them on the rack as it's off at the mo and will post tommorow so you can see the bottom ok


mark..

PS
Had my shells out to check them after starting her up with no oil in and they are fine :)

PPS
I had a custom ally bracket made by Mik for my pump and then mounted it on 4 of those feet with rubber in the middle.
 
  BMW M135i
ahh! I've fitted a few dry and never had any leakage problems
Depends how well the cap(s) have been sealed in the first place. I've never know one not leak without it, hell they'll still leak with it. Can take a few thousand miles to show on a road car but it accumulates.
 
  BMW Z4
Can you please send me the link to that PDF as that IS different to the one I have!!!! The torque order is way different and there is one more bolt too, always wondered why I had one left LOL..
 
  BMW M135i
That's because it's for a 774 lump from a mk2 rs megane, the sump is different as the bell housing pattern is different.

The sealing procedure is the same though, the top picture is a 730/732/736/738 lump as the 774 doesn't run an aux driven water pump. It's just the tightening sequence that's different.
 


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