ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Got caster yo



  SQ5
Ph1 has a different way to mounting the bumper.

Ph2 have an awkward bracket, just use a hammer and hit it away
 

Matt Cup

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon Cupra
PH1 better?

I've twatted mine, but as some of the bolts have rusted, so I've had to do it with the bumper in situ.
 
Chip did you switch to 172 cup track rods?

Reason I ask is I need new track rods but the cup ones are about 16mm longer and are Renault only.

But if you didn't switch track rods I guess you must be in the same situation as if I fitted non genuine non cup track rods.

The ones I looked at would still penetrate just over 20mm into the TRE just not sure if that is enough.

Thanks
Mark
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Im still on the standard track rods, the difference was only about 2 turns of thread mate, literally about 3-4mm, so not worth swapping to anything else.

No idea why the cup ones would be so much longer, purely to homologate for use with the cup racer bottom balljoint setup I would imagine.
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
Just to bring this alive again.

What about re drilling the rear hole on the wishbone as well, surely this would add extra castor also.
 
The problem I have found with moving the ball joint too much is the clearance with the wheel arch :(! I can only move it a little bit with the 205's on and then it catches

The only option for me is adjust and the top and bottom to keep the wheel in the middle of the arch or cut out at the wheel arch
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
I mean move the inside hole backwards and then the outer hole forwards, this should increase the castor more without moving it too far forward.

I think that's what I mean anyway.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Yes you could add even more like that, but I already have as much as I have clearance for in terms of the wheel and the metal in front of the arches, but on a racecar with all that cutout you could go even further.
 
I mean move the inside hole backwards and then the outer hole forwards, this should increase the castor more without moving it too far forward.

I think that's what I mean anyway.
I know what you mean as I thought the same, but with the top of the strut staying in the same place then you have to move the wheel forwards to get more caster. By moving the inward hole further to the rear you are just increasing the angle of the ball joint but not moving the wheel forward so no increase in caster :(

It could give you more caster but will just keep causing even more clearance problems
 
I do understand what you mean too mate, but the angle of caster cannot be increased without the wheel moving forwards at the same ratio as increasing the angle :( (Unless you move the strut backwards at the top which then counteracts it)
 
  Cup In bits
Agreed James one end the pivot point has to move, either strut top or ball joint pin has to move forward or back to get more but i think what tony is saying you could turn the ball joint to more of an angle getting some more caster without it being off the side of the arm. Space is obviously an issue but you can chop away most/all of the bumper bracket then I guess the next point is the front bib of the arch that Kenny has cut out??
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
Agreed James one end the pivot point has to move, either strut top or ball joint pin has to move forward or back to get more but i think what tony is saying you could turn the ball joint to more of an angle getting some more caster without it being off the side of the arm. Space is obviously an issue but you can chop away most/all of the bumper bracket then I guess the next point is the front bib of the arch that Kenny has cut out??


You got it.:)
 
Yes I agree you could get plenty more caster by moving the rear bolt, I was just trying to clear up that when Tony was saying 'this should increase the castor more without moving it too far forward' it won't make any difference to how much the wheel moves forwards as that will be the same amount as you increase the caster.

My bumper bracket has been chopped right back and yes the main area where it catches is when you apply lock is where Kenny has open the arch out!
 
about 3/4 when the suspension is sat on the ground, when I then slackened off the springs (to get an idea for when the suspension is under load) it was catching at about half lock but this time in the middle section of the arch :(
 
haha I can see myself getting choppy with the inner arches.

Im pretty sure my car runs lower than most. FML
Haha I have already marked mine up for trimming but i'm scared of grinders lol!

That is the thing, i am having the catching issues and my car is high compared to how most of you guys have them
 
  Mental 172 Cup
Has anyone checked it see if this affected the camber in anyway at all? On a standard damper setup with no camber bolts surely it would give you a little bit of positive camber as in theory your bringing the hub inwards at the bottom but the stop is staying the same
 
  Cup In bits
You would increase static positive camber slightly by doing this but nothing to worry about. Caster is free camber, as you increase caster it increases your dynamic camber during cornering which in reality is all camber is there for, to keep the contact patch as big as possible.
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
Has anyone checked it see if this affected the camber in anyway at all? On a standard damper setup with no camber bolts surely it would give you a little bit of positive camber as in theory your bringing the hub inwards at the bottom but the stop is staying the same

Yes.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Has anyone checked it see if this affected the camber in anyway at all? On a standard damper setup with no camber bolts surely it would give you a little bit of positive camber as in theory your bringing the hub inwards at the bottom but the stop is staying the same

Its a couple of mm or so at most that it moves in, so maybe a fifth of a degree or something like that, I have camber bolts on my h&r coilovers so not an issue for mine but you are right its potentially something else to consider if you dont have any way of adjust the camber.
 
  Mental 172 Cup
Fair enough.. I understand the way caster affects the handling and what it does. Also I can imagine its only miniscule that it moves and is easily overcome with camber bolts which cost peanuts now a days. Was just interested to see if anyone has checked how much difference it makes.
 
  Audi A6 & 172 Cup
This was partly why I opted to make new engine mounts, as mad as it may seem.
There's nothing stopping you tweaking the nearside inner arch but when you look at getting some more clearance on the offside the engine mount is smack bang in the way. Granted you could still chop bits of the inner arch away but you would be cutting bits of the engine mount away too.
 
  172 race build
sorry to reopen this old thread but was the general consensus that your best off going with the cup spec? Mine is a track only ph2 172 so not afraid of a little cutting. ive modified the wishbones like chip did at the beggining and the car does seem to just rub on the inside arches but i have nowhere to push the car and find out how bad it is before going out on track. do i need to drill a hole somewhere between standard and the extreme castor? (and obviously weld up the old hole) just dont want to turn up at a trackday and have to go home after 5 mins because i need to modify my wishbones because the tires are rubbing.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Depends on how high you are, rubbing on full lock is not a problem for a track car but rubbing during hard cornering is.
Cup spec is a safe option but the more the better and only way to find your max amount is testing it.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
I would say from looking at them both that the wishbones probably give marginally more.

Both is obviously the winning option though, although I prefer my pure design ones so I think I might got some made that are similar but have caster built into them at some point.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
IIRC they were about 60 or 70 quid a side when we bought them for my mrs daily.

Yes I love the feel of a clio with plenty of caster.
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Good thing about going AST, is you can then add the cup wishbones in later too mate.
I kind of regret getting the pure topmounts as its silly not adding a degree up there too really.
 


Top