Stud and nut info

[danh90]

Just been having a browse around for my new spacers and came across a comment from chip that if using on track and constantly changing wheels, stud and nut would be better than wheel bolts due to the ally thread on the spacer or something..

How does the stud and nut kit work simply thread bar into the hub and nut the wheels on?

Anyone ever had issues with them coming loose?

Also is it only the pure Motorsport kit you can get or is there other options?

Are they better if swapping wheels around often?

 

[danh90]

Anyone

 

[Fletcher]

I've personally heard nothing but good things about the pure motorsport stud kit. I plan on ordering the PMS stud kit soonish.

IIRC demon tweaks also sell a similar kit.

They make wheel changes much easier and quicker!

 

[Jamie86]

You can buy individual studs and nuts from rallydesign as well.. and Fred as well iirc..

 

[LONGBAR]

I have some on my car. Makes life much easier changing wheels
got them from ebay.

 

[danh90]

You got a link to the ones you bought bud?

 

[LONGBAR]

Search 280618824799
I bought 60mm ones incase I ever decide to buy bigger brakes.

 

[danh90]

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/wheel-nuts-bolts/a-i-tech-double-thread-conversion-stud

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/wheel-nuts-bolts/a-i-tech-aluminium-open-wheel-nut

So would these be upto the job and perfect for track use??

 

[sam JFM]

Yup but the pure motorsport kit is pretty much the same.and cheaper!

 

[Space Cadet]

The quality of the PM stuff is always top so I personally wouldn't buy from anywhere else. I have the PM stud kit (as well as the full bearing kits, beam strengthening kit and wishbone strengthening kit).To answer your first question they screw (held in place with some thread-lock) into the hub in place of your normal wheel bolts. You then place your wheel on the hub with the studs sticking through the 4 holes in your wheels and then you screw on four nuts. As mentioned it makes changing wheels sooooo much easier mainly because the wheel locates easier and its held in place while you screw the nuts on.

 

[Martin.]

I'm looking into doing a stud an nut conversion on mine. A friend uses a company called Grayston and has said they've been perfect for him over the years. A little bit cheaper than PM too I think.. Although I have no dought that the PM kit is top notch.

Trying to understand how locking nuts would work has been confusing me though and I'm not sure I'd feel comfortable without them.

 

[Space Cadet]

I haven't heard of Grayson so cant comment either way, but these are not something you want to actively be looking to save money on. The PM kit is tried an tested and not IMO too much money, I've had them on my car for 2-3 years and had no problems whatsoever. You wont be able to use locking nuts, the kit comes with specific nuts to use on the studs.

 

[Martin.]

Can you not order locking nuts to suit? Surely you must be able to get around it somehow.

 

[Chip-mk1]

If you get studs which are just long enough not go right through the nuts then you can use locking wheel nuts.
Wouldnt work on the pure kit though as they have such a long spigot onto them (which helps prevent cross threading).

 

[Space Cadet]

Beat me to it.

 

[Chip-mk1]

The ones to avoid IME are these type:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-...Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item5642253dd8

Hardly surprising for the money I guess, but they just come undone for a past time if used hard I found, so I swapped to hockley ones which were epic, although the pure ones are nearly as good and a lot cheaper.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Search 280618824799
I bought 60mm ones incase I ever decide to buy bigger brakes.

Tried those cheap ones, they were litter TBH. Would never use them again, had to tighten the wheel every session and sometimes didnt even make it to the end of a session before I could hear it wobbling.

Used them for literally one trackday then threw them in the bin!

 

[danh90]

PM kit it is then like was mentioned erlier no point scrimping on a few ££'s with things like this..

I'm running 25mm spacers front and 15 rear how will this work cos my fronts bolt to my hub and that's where the studs will be going?

 

[bartebk]

I've got Pure Motorsport ones, to be fitted, looked at cheaper but took advice from fellow members and decided on PM ones

 

[Chip-mk1]

PM kit it is then like was mentioned erlier no point scrimping on a few ££'s with things like this..

I'm running 25mm spacers front and 15 rear how will this work cos my fronts bolt to my hub and that's where the studs will be going?

Bolt the front 25mm spacer on then the studs screw into the front spacer, and on the rear the studs go into the car as per normal then the 15mm spacer just slides over them.

I run my PM kit on the turbo that way on the front as I have 30mm spacers.

 

[Space Cadet]

Bolt the front 25mm spacer on then the studs screw into the front spacer, and on the rear the studs go into the car as per normal then the 15mm spacer just slides over them. I run my PM kit on the turbo that way on the front as I have 30mm spacers.

Chip, looks like my setup is the same as yours, any reason why on the rear the studs screw directly into the hub and the spacer slides over it? I'm currently running 25mm front and 20mm rear but the fronts have the studs screwed into the spacer and then the spacer bolts to the hub. I've just ordered a 30mm spacer from Dan@M.A.D. on here which I will pop on the front with studs screwed into the spacer and then put my 'old' 25mm spacer on the rear with the studs already screwed into the spacer. Is this going to work?

 

[Chip-mk1]

Chip, looks like my setup is the same as yours, any reason why on the rear the studs screw directly into the hub and the spacer slides over it? I'm currently running 25mm front and 20mm rear but the fronts have the studs screwed into the spacer and then the spacer bolts to the hub. I've just ordered a 30mm spacer from Dan@M.A.D. on here which I will pop on the front with studs screwed into the spacer and then put my 'old' 25mm spacer on the rear with the studs already screwed into the spacer. Is this going to work?

For the 15mm spacer that was mentioned there isnt enough meat on the spacer to allow it to bolt to the hub, so they are the slide on type instead.
There has to be enough thickness for the metal to be strong enough to not sheer off with the loads going through it and still enough room for the head of the bolt, if you dont have that you cant do bolt to hub.

 

[Space Cadet]

Thanks Chip, that makes perfect and obvious sense. I will simply bolt my existing 25mm spacer with studs already attached onto the rear and then bolt the new 30mm spacer onto the front and take the studs out of the rear and screw them into the new spacer on the front. I cant remember from memory how the rear disc and hub is arranged, the disc contains the bearings so do the studs screw directly into the discs? If so do you happen to know what torque the nut/nuts that hold the disc on need to be tightened to please? Presumably also I will need to remove the rear callipers to remove the discs, do you also happen to know what torque the calliper bolts need to be tightened to? Sorry for the questions, thanks Mark

 

[Chip-mk1]

Thanks Chip, that makes perfect and obvious sense. I will simply bolt my existing 25mm spacer with studs already attached onto the rear and then bolt the new 30mm spacer onto the front and take the studs out of the rear and screw them into the new spacer on the front. I cant remember from memory how the rear disc and hub is arranged, the disc contains the bearings so do the studs screw directly into the discs? If so do you happen to know what torque the nut/nuts that hold the disc on need to be tightened to please? Presumably also I will need to remove the rear callipers to remove the discs, do you also happen to know what torque the calliper bolts need to be tightened to? Sorry for the questions, thanks Mark

The rear spacers just bolt on like you normally would a wheel mate, you dont need to touch the disk or caliper, you just take the wheel off, bolt the spacer in its place with the bolts provided with the spacer, and then just screw the studs into the spacer.

 

[Space Cadet]

Thanks Chip, I need though to remove the studs already in the rear disc to screw into the new 30mm spacer that will go on the front, these screw in with an Allen key from behind if my memory serves me. So I need to remove my disc - was just after the relevant torque settings for when I have to reassemble if you knew them off the top of your head. Thanks Mark.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Thanks Chip, I need though to remove the studs already in the rear disc to screw into the new 30mm spacer that will go on the front, these screw in with an Allen key from behind if my memory serves me. So I need to remove my disc - was just after the relevant torque settings for when I have to reassemble if you knew them off the top of your head. Thanks Mark.

Dont know what studs you have so cant comment mate.

Most studs screw in from the outside, certainly the pure ones do for example, so you just unscrew them, then fit your spacers, then screw them into your spacers.

 

[Space Cadet]

Thanks Chip, they're definitely Pure studs so may be like you say I can just unscrew them from the outside, which will be a lot easier!! Thanks again, Mark

 

[Chip-mk1]

If they are the Pure ones like this:
http://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/details.php?itemid=130

Then 100% certain they definitely just screw in from the outside, no maybe about it.

 

[Space Cadet]

Bonza, thanks Chip!

 

[Chip-mk1]

Presumably when you fitted them originally (or someone else did) they will have used the loctite, so bear in mind they will be a little stiff to come out, but they should still be fine with just a 5.5mm allen key.
However if it feels like the Key is going to slip/round then lock two wheel nuts together on the stud and use them to undo it instead.

And dont forget to use some new studlock when they go back in.

 

[Space Cadet]

Presumably when you fitted them originally (or someone else did) they will have used the loctite, so bear in mind they will be a little stiff to come out, but they should still be fine with just a 5.5mm allen key.However if it feels like the Key is going to slip/round then lock two wheel nuts together on the stud and use them to undo it instead.And dont forget to use some new studlock when they go back in.

Thanks Chip. Just re-read the Pure guide so you are of course correct in that they screw in from the outside, was a good job that I read it because the studs only need to be tightened to 20nm - which doesn't sound a lot to me but they are of course the experts. Good idea regarding using two nuts, will give that a go regardless so don't risk rounding the Allen key slot undoing them. I've got some red thread-lock, but have a feeling that the different colours are different strengths will this be strong enough?

 

[Fred@BTM]

can i suggest running a tap through all threaded holes first, always a good idea!

 

[Space Cadet]

can i suggest running a tap through all threaded holes first, always a good idea!

Thanks Fred, will do.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Thanks Chip. Just re-read the Pure guide so you are of course correct in that they screw in from the outside, was a good job that I read it because the studs only need to be tightened to 20nm - which doesn't sound a lot to me but they are of course the experts. Good idea regarding using two nuts, will give that a go regardless so don't risk rounding the Allen key slot undoing them. I've got some red thread-lock, but have a feeling that the different colours are different strengths will this be strong enough?

You need a STUD lock not a NUT lock basically mate, colours arent a good guide, they vary.

Dont forget the stud gets pulled on by the nut, so although it doesnt sound very tight once the nut is wound on and stretching the stud its actually very well held into the hub then.

also +1 for fred's recommendation on cleaning the threads up.

 

[Martin.]

Interesting read cheers guys.

What if you don't have a torque wrench? Is it that much of a risk to do the nuts up by hand (Or the studs with the allen key too actually)?

I've done all my cars to hand strength over the years and never had any problems.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Interesting read cheers guys.

What if you don't have a torque wrench? Is it that much of a risk to do the nuts up by hand (Or the studs with the allen key too actually)?

I've done all my cars to hand strength over the years and never had any problems.

No problem at all IMHO, id be quite happy doing them by feel, the studs just need to be "nipped up" and then the wheel nuts just done the same as you would a normal set of wheel bolts.

Obviously the "correct" way is to torque them, but if you are confident in your own judgement on the normal wheel bolts its no different on these.

 

[Space Cadet]

You need a STUD lock not a NUT lock basically mate, colours arent a good guide, they vary.Dont forget the stud gets pulled on by the nut, so although it doesnt sound very tight once the nut is wound on and stretching the stud its actually very well held into the hub then.also +1 for fred's recommendation on cleaning the threads up.

Thanks Chip, I've just spoken to Nick at Pure who is going to send me out some recommended stud-lock, so will have the correct stuff regardless.

 

[Chip-mk1]

Ideal

 

[danh90]

Great info in this thread thanks chip pretty much everything covered regarding fitting studs,spacers ect

Great help

 

[Chip-mk1]

No problem, Happy to help as always mate