Rob's F4R'd Dynamique Track Car

ROB91 · Aug 15, 2011

Christopher said:
Awesome as ever dude. Great progress!

You coming to the Manchester meet in a few weeks?

Cheers, its getting there lol.

Yep just seen the thread haha so ill ne there.

ROB91 · Aug 15, 2011

Bren Rogers said:
Get the rest of them polycarb windows in you lazy git!!

From looking at your engine pay I really want to relocate my battery so I can have my airbox sat straight... although I think there would still be a few things in the way. looks so much tidier.

Ill get them in once a cage is in, pointless putting them in now as the rear quarter windows will need to come out for the gussests to be welded in, then i have to pay for a window guy to come out..... give it time lol......

Yeah think a few things need moving out the way in order to do it although i cant remember what exactly.

ROB91 · Aug 27, 2011

Yet again ive not really done much on the car since the last update. Ive really enjoyed driving the car this last couple of weeks. The topmounts have made a massive difference to the way the car drives now. Round corners it feels great, holds the road really well, the steering feel's so direct. Solid topmonts and no powersteering are working really well.

Seem to be getting into a little bit of a trend with the car now. Go a few weeks without even touching the car then all of a sudden i pull my finger out and get a few more bits. Recently i have removed my standard dogbone mount that had the powerflex bushes in and fitted a solid coops dogobone mount. Got hold of a RS stamped lower inlet, and finally got my hands on a RS tuner. Been after one for a while now, so should be putting a map on the car sometime next week. Will get some pics up of everything when i get chance this weekend.

Fletcher · Aug 27, 2011

Good buy Rob. The 98 performance map is great!

ROB91 · Aug 27, 2011

Fletcher said:
Good buy Rob. The 98 performance map is great!

Thanks. Ive not really looked into any of the maps yet. Is that what you have got on??

ROB91 · Aug 27, 2011

As i mentioned before i have fitted a Coops solid dogbone mount instead of the standard dogbone with the powerflex bushes. Few things ive noticed for the short time are.... The gear change feels alot more direct now than with the powerflex bushes. Feels better when i put my foot down aswel presume its because the engine doesnt move back and forward anymore and the last thing is the amount of vibration i get throught the car now lol

Few pics from when i put it on.......

Went from this, the standard mount..........

To this the solid mount......

And a few pics once fitted........

Going to put a 5th mount on the front of the engine when i pick up some metal next week. And a quick pic of my recent purchase......

f0xy · Aug 27, 2011

Your O/S driveshaft isnt on all the way, lol

Fletcher · Aug 27, 2011

ROB91 said:
Thanks. Ive not really looked into any of the maps yet. Is that what you have got on??

Yeah I run either that or the overrun map Rob.

bmh.01 · Aug 27, 2011

f0xy said:
Your O/S driveshaft isnt on all the way, lol

Glad I wasn't the only one

. Still on 1.2 shafts?

f0xy · Aug 27, 2011

Lol. Its on 172 shafts/single piece O/S

bmh.01 · Aug 27, 2011

Close back up with it on the ground then i'd hope. Ph2 2 piece affair shaft is better imo.

ROB91 · Aug 27, 2011

bmh.01 said:
Close back up with it on the ground then i'd hope. Ph2 2 piece affair shaft is better imo.

I hope so. Ill have a look one day this weekend when the weather clears up abit.

coxxy · Aug 27, 2011

whats that solid dogbone mount????

Fred@BTM · Aug 27, 2011

^a good way to rattle your teeth out

daveski · Aug 27, 2011

Any info on the dogbone mount anywhere?

coxxy · Aug 27, 2011

Fred@BTM said:
^a good way to rattle your teeth out

ive still got a thud when i change gear with poly flex in. wouldnt you recommend then?

JackJack · Aug 27, 2011

coxxy said:
ive still got a thud when i change gear with poly flex in. wouldnt you recommend then?

Checked the condition of the other mounts?

ROB91 · Aug 27, 2011

Gear changes are alot smoother and more direct with this mount on.

Fred your right.... quite alot of vibration throught the car now.

The mount is mainly used on the mk1 valvers and williams clio's.

Fred@BTM · Aug 27, 2011

coxxy said:
ive still got a thud when i change gear with poly flex in. wouldnt you recommend then?

99% its the upper gearbox mount

Thrust-Rated · Aug 28, 2011

just spent a good few hours reading this project, its great. something i wish i had the knowledge to do with my 1.2 (just going to hold out and get a 182 in january (Lazy))

fairplay for putting all the time and effort in too, along with f0xy.

don't forget to update

ROB91 · Aug 28, 2011

walmsley69 said:
just spent a good few hours reading this project, its great. something i wish i had the knowledge to do with my 1.2 (just going to hold out and get a 182 in january (Lazy))

fairplay for putting all the time and effort in too, along with f0xy.
don't forget to update

Cheers, wouldnt have got it done without jords input tbh lol.

Will keep it updated haha.

So plugged my RS tuner into the car yday so that i could get an unlock code sent through. Will have a look through the available maps later on as i now have the email with the unlock code on

.

ROB91 · Sep 3, 2011

I finally got round to fitting my RS lower inlet and my freshly sprayed fuel rail guard the other day. Didnt take all that long to do. Engine bay looks alot tidier and neater with the fuel rail guard now on. I sprayed the fuel rail guard and inlet with the same paint i have used for the rest of the bay, Hammerite Matt Black BBQ paint. Looks quite good once it has all dried and minimal prep is needed before adding the paint.

Before painting i used a wire brush over both the inlet and the fuel rail guard to remove a few bits of crap that were on it. Then wiped it over with a damp cloth before painting.

And the finished result.....

Whilst that was drying which take 10 mins or so i started to remove all the upper engine mount, strut brace and inlets. I jacked the engine up on one of the bottom corners of the sump to take the weight.

Trial fitted the fuel rail guard to see what it was like

. Then removed the strut brace and airbox........

Upper inlet removed.........

Lower inlet removed........

RS inlet fitted.......

Then put everything back togeather.

As mentioned earlier in the thread i got an RS tuner. Should have the map on the car by tomorrow i hope, had a few other things to sort out regarding software ect ect......

Mcaff · Sep 3, 2011

what's the difference with the rs stamped inlet mate?

ROB91 · Sep 3, 2011

Its just a bigger bore all the way through, comapred to the standard inlet.

Mcaff · Sep 3, 2011

ah i see cheers mate. cars looking great btw

Whiteley · Sep 3, 2011

Should have matched them while it was all off.

When's the next trackday?

Fletcher · Sep 3, 2011

Engine bay looks tidy Rob. Puts mine to shame.

f0xy · Sep 3, 2011

You missed out the bit where you removed the lower inlet with all the dirt and stones were still against the cylinder head and everything went down the ports, lol. Im sure you shouldn't be allowed near cars....... :clown:

Gray · Sep 3, 2011

f0xy said:
You missed out the bit where you removed the lower inlet with all the dirt and stones were still against the cylinder head and everything went down the ports, lol. Im sure you shouldn't be allowed near cars....... :clown:

LOL

School boy error!!!

p@blo · Sep 3, 2011

f0xy said:
You missed out the bit where you removed the lower inlet with all the dirt and stones were still against the cylinder head and everything went down the ports, lol. Im sure you shouldn't be allowed near cars....... :clown:

D'oh! Looking good Rob

ROB91 · Sep 4, 2011

f0xy said:
You missed out the bit where you removed the lower inlet with all the dirt and stones were still against the cylinder head and everything went down the ports, lol. Im sure you shouldn't be allowed near cars....... :clown:

Yeah i know, the rig up hoover bit saved the day tho...... was going to leave that bit out hahaha...

ROB91 · Sep 4, 2011

Whiteley said:
Should have matched them while it was all off.

When's the next trackday?

Oulton i think mate, beg of november.

Cheers fletch its getting there now.

ROB91 · Sep 4, 2011

Gray said:
LOL

School boy error!!!

Yeah i know

sall good now tho hehe.

Bren Rogers · Sep 4, 2011

f0xy said:
You missed out the bit where you removed the lower inlet with all the dirt and stones were still against the cylinder head and everything went down the ports, lol. Im sure you shouldn't be allowed near cars....... :clown:

LOL

ROB91 · Sep 4, 2011

Seeing as ive had the metal sat in my garage to make myself a 5th mount for a few days now, i finally had abit of free time along with jord to get one made. There was alot more work involved in making it than i first thought but it was all worth it. And the end result was great. Took about 4 hours of grinding, measuring, welding, drilling, abit more gringing then spraying but it looks great. Took alot of pictures along the way. The main ourpose of putting the 5th mount on is to further reduce any engine movement along with the solid dogbone.

Firstly i started out with a 250 x 250mm sheet of 3mm thick steel plate. I cut this in half so that i could make both parts of the 5th mount.

Then we drilled a hole in the subframe so the the rubber could be fixed directlty to the subframe.

Jord had brought one of his spare blocks with him so that we could measure and find the positions of all three bolt hole for the 5th mount to be mounted to.

Then we cut out a rough template using paper so we could get the rough shape and positions of the bolt holes.

Marked all three holes up on the paper template.

Then transfered the paper design onto the sheet of metal and cut it out with the grinder to get the rough shape.

Then we made a slight notch in the sheet of metal so that it would clear the water pump housing yet sit flush onto the block.

Then abit more grinding.................

All the holes were drilled into thge metal for the three bolts to go through to the block.

A trial fit confirmed that all three bolts lined up with the holes in the block perfectly.

Then we had to drill a hole in the bottom of the subframe large enough to fit the nut and a socket through.....

We then set about cuttin out and shaping the piece of metal the would attatch the metal frame of the mount to the rubber......

Once we had the correct shap and size we drilled holes for the bolts to go through and attatched it to the rubber part of the mount.

We then went round all the edges of the mount with a paddle disc to get rid of any sharp edges and to define the shape abit more.

Now that we had both parts of the mounts made up and cut out we got a spare piece of roll cage tubing to reinforce the mount. This would stop any flex of the mount.

We took a few measurements of the angle we want the mount to sit at so that it is forcing the engine against the dogbone mount.

Got the welder at the ready.......

Once we had cut the roll cage tube to the correct length, and with the correct cuts so it will support the two pieces of metal, jord set off with the welder.