Removing ABS Module?

[Tom Johnson]

After rewiring the track car the ABS module isn't wired up and the pedal feels different? (Not sure if it is different or if it's just in my head)

Want to remove the module but not sure of the best way of doing it.

Can the original master be used by pumping the fronts into one port and the backs into the other or do I need the 172 cup 4 port master and either tee two ports together or blank one port off for the rears so I can run a bias valve?

Any advise anyone can lend will be much appreciated

Cheers Tom

 

[Cub.]

.

 

[Cub.]

The easiest way to sort removal of the ABS is to swap the MC, brake lines with the Cup setup and put in the Cup bias valve.

Basically source a cup setup and swap it all over. That is what I did on mine, along with removing the ABS module / pump and relevant loom. It triggers the light on the dash, so if you need an MOT it can become problematic. I got past that with some 'dash magic' and I have a set of Cup clocks to put in mine at some point which should solve it long term.

PS. Without the ABS module plugged in, I believe you will be running 50/50 brake bias (problem I kept getting with mine, hence me removing it) and that is not a pleasant setup for track. Trust me.

 

[Djw John]

Which is the same way as we have done it.

 

[Tom Johnson]

Can you not use the original master cylinder?

Why is the cup master needed?

 

[Paprika123]

Can you not use the original master cylinder?

Why is the cup master needed?

Cup has 4 outputs, normal has one iirc.

 

[Tom Johnson]

Yes thats correct but the original does diagonals ie front right, rear left from one port and front left, rear right from the other so I was thinking I could change that so one does the fronts and the other does the rears via a bias valve??

Unless the pressure output is differnt this seem easier the buying a different master with 4 ports then either teeing two ports into one or blanking one port off the run through a bais to the rears