Red immobiliser light staying on????

[NDrako]

Hi guys, im new to this forum after just purchasing a Clio Sport 172 on a 51 plate. You may know the car as it was previously owned by a guy called Paul Armstrong in the Cheltenham area who was on this forum. Reg no. S2 PBA.

Anyway down to the fault...
Since i purchased the car 2 weeks ago its had intermittent problem with the immobiliser where the red light would flash rapidly when i turn ignition on. But only recently its got alot worse and taking me 10 minutes or more to start the car up.
The red light will stay solid alot more and sometimes it cranks for 2-3 secs and cuts out the crank. Iv tried squeezing the fob while ignition is turned on, turned it off, then on for 30 secs, back off for 30secs and then crank but no luck. A specialist lock smith was at my garage the other week and he put both my keys in a device which read the key and both came back ok with the code still in the two keys.
Iv also read up after spending hours researching similar problems that it could be a broken wire in the ecu loom but unsure where to start as its definitely immobiliser related due to the rapid flashing red light.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as i love the car and dont wana get rid or spend ridiculous amounts of money on parts and new keys. I am a mechanic but as we all know Renaults are renowned for electrical faults and wiring problems which is so annoying as there lovely cars.

Thankyou.
Nick

 

[Owen.C]

Both keys are just as bad and you've change the key battery?

 

[NDrako]

Yes both as bad and both still got the code. He changed the batteries for me as well as a piece of mind but still no luck.
Its only this last week its got alot worse. Doing pretty much every time i lock and unlock my car..or maybe thats just a coincidence.

 

[Dave Hester]

Try changing the decoder ring in the ignition barrel, any ring from a ph2 clio will be fine and u can get one from a scrappy for less than a tenner

 

[MicKPM]

I've only ever changed one decoder ring over the years and that was because someone broke it with a screwdriver forcing off the column plastics... They're normally bomb proof!

If the keys are okay I'd personally suspect a UCH fault.

Mick

 

[NDrako]

What do you mean UCH fault? Not trying to be dull or nothing but all these abbreviations are starting to get me down a little
Do you reckon i should change the decoder ring just incase? I really would like to know what the solid red light means as appose to the fast flashing red light which i know is definitely immobiliser related.

 

[MicKPM]

States of the warning light have been covered before chap (to death and then some).

LED flashing @ 1Hz - System armed (normal with key out)

LED flashing @ 4Hz - System armed (Security check failed, key not recognised/authorised to start vehicle)

LED on solid - Key recognised and authorised to start but system node, gateway or other fault present. Unable to start vehicle so system still armed.

Its also possible you've got a wiring fault but finding these can be easy or mega hard depending on where the fault actually lay which without CLIP and its network test procedures you will struggle to find unless you get lucky and see a physical break. The UCH is what controls everything and if you don't understand any of this I wouldn't touch it as you're more likely to do more harm than good. If you want to gamble on the induction coil then by means have a go as it may work... I've worked on these cars for more years than I care to count anymore and honestly I've changed one that actually needed replacing.

Mick

 

[NDrako]

Right ok thanks..at least i know what they all mean.

Today i put our Launch X431 diagnostics machine on my Clio and it had a few stored codes in the UCH section and Engine electronics. Bearing mind the problem has not happened since yesterday morning, where it happened nearly ever time i used the car.

UCH;
DF069 Siren circuit, Short circuit to +12v
DF069 Siren circuit, Open circuit or short circuit to earth

Engine;
DF057 Upstream oxygen sensor circuit
DF135 Break pedal sensor circuit
DF235 Cruise ctrl speed limiter, fault on one of the two break pedal contacts.

These codes are all memory and not present/active but would any of them be relevant to the problem? I cant see they would be but i could be wrong.

 

[Fred@BTM]

open engine fuse box and wiggle everything, that normally fixes them

 

[NDrako]

Hahaha i like your style, but i really need a permanent fix as im a fuss ass and dont fancy being stuck miles from home with a car that will not start.

 

[MicKPM]

Fred is ace at electrics - fix it with fire is also another option

 

[largespiced]

Exact fault as mine at the moment, I am at a loss with it really. Subscribed

 

[NDrako]

Im going to wait until the weekend and strip all the looms back by the ECU and engine fuse box and see what i can see.. Theres no chance in hell ill be taking my car to a Renault main dealer!!!

 

[MicKPM]

Non of the faults listed above would cause a solid red light. Can you clear the codes or does it attempt and fail?

 

[NDrako]

The codes cleared but i haven't put the diagnostics back on to see if they have re-appeared yet.
Its got to be immobiliser related though as the red light will flash fast around the same time the red light goes solid, if that makes sense.
Today i started my car up at lunch time and it went straight to solid red.. After fiddling by locking and unlocking, taking the key out of the ignition and back in, it went to a fast red flash.. after more playing it eventually disarmed and i could start the car. All this took around 7mins or so.

 

[largespiced]

This thread is an exact echo of my problems, I could almost be writing it myself! I am tempted to book it into a auto spark

 

[Fred@BTM]

Hahaha i like your style, but i really need a permanent fix as im a fuss ass and dont fancy being stuck miles from home with a car that will not start.

That is the proper fix! You own a french car, tough tits!

 

[MicKPM]

This thread is an exact echo of my problems, I could almost be writing it myself! I am tempted to book it into a auto spark

If you're close to Nottingham pop it in and I'll fix it properly for you. I've had two X65 Clios, a Laguna II and a Kangoo this week alone with similar issues... Must be the weather

Mick

 

[NDrako]

This thread is an exact echo of my problems, I could almost be writing it myself! I am tempted to book it into a auto spark

If you do find anything please please please get back to me as this is really annoying me now!!!! Anything i find will be up on this thread almost instant.

 

[largespiced]

If you do find anything please please please get back to me as this is really annoying me now!!!! Anything i find will be up on this thread almost instant.

yeah of course mate. I tend to do the old 30 second trick and this mainly cures it. Seems to get better and then worse. I have been told a new key would cure it, but its a large expense to "try"

 

[MicKPM]

A new key is likely to cure this yeah but it may also be a UCH fault... Something else not cheap!

Easiest thing, and I say this not as a trader simply trying to extract £25 from your pocket, is have it plugged in on CLIP!

This will do more than "code read" as firstly it will inspect the digital network signals to see if its a wiring fault. Then, if that passes you can move on to the UCH to see if the key is being recognised or not (this tells you if its the key or the UCH as being the fault).

£25 to know is better than guessing on a £140 key or a £380 UCH. You could replace the lot I guess for £100-140 with a matched second hand set but I try and steer people away from this unless money is their primary concern as these parts are starting to get old now and they do have a finite life span.

Mick

 

[NDrako]

Right Largespiced... might be on a winner!
A mate of mine just rang me and gave me some very useful info.
Sit in the car, close all doors and if the red light starts flashing fast on ignition, turn the ignition off and squeeze the button on the key and keep it pressed (yes your car will try locking but dont worry), with your finger/thumb still pressed turn the ignition on to the sec stage and your light should go out or stop flashing. Release your finger off the button and crank. Just worked on mine a treat.
It apparently resets the immobiliser which yes its gona be a temporary fix for now but theres more...
Iv noticed my car doesn't stay locked on the first press of the key when walking away from my vehicle... its unlocks its self, almost like the door/boot isn't closed.
Well iv learnt that when this happens the car will beep to say somethings wrong so when it eventually locks the car will immobilise itself so when you next come to your car and open it and shove your key in the ignition and turn it will still be immobilised from previous. I hope this makes kind of sense...
Wether these symptons are the same on your clio i would not know but give it a try and let me know.

 

[NDrako]

Sorry forgot to add im putting all this down to a faulty door/boot/bonnet sensor. My mate reckons if you get an after market alarm system fitted i.e Cobra, Toad etc, then they can by pass all this with there alarm system and them being professional alarm fitters who specialise in immobilisers and stuff.

 

[largespiced]

Nice... Mine does normally work by pushing the key fob in while turning the key, but even with the light stop flashing it can still not start, crank but not always start. It only cranks for a few seconds and then stops cranking again.

 

[largespiced]

Also... Found a company who can programme the immobiliser out of the ecu, will share the link when on a pc next if you like.

 

[MicKPM]

You cannot "reset" the immobiliser!

It is the key at fault... Squeezing it whilst holding the button does nothing but prove a fault on the PCB with the exciter. In fact I'm like Ducan Valentine and "I'm out"

 

[JaredHasNoBrain]

Has anyone tried what "nDrako" has said? Im not finishing work till 6 so when I hear a slight solution excites me.
I've had my 172 for nearly 3 weeks, I bought it, drove it home, showed my mates and after the 3rd day its been sitting on my drive lifeless, Kind of a buzz kill So please someone help, I've tried nearly everything apart from going to a electricion!

 

[largespiced]

Decided to bite the bullet and buy a rather expensive key. After talking to a local Renault dealer they said they feel its the key, as 99% of faults seen with Clios and immoblisers are key related. As I only have one key they said it made it trickier to test the car, but anyway, its ordered and now need to wait for it to arrive in. Will let you know the results

 

[NDrako]

Decided to bite the bullet and buy a rather expensive key. After talking to a local Renault dealer they said they feel its the key, as 99% of faults seen with Clios and immoblisers are key related. As I only have one key they said it made it trickier to test the car, but anyway, its ordered and now need to wait for it to arrive in. Will let you know the results

Let me know what happens with the new key issue mate... Really interested to see what happens. Mines got alot worse lately and really doing my nut in now

 

[largespiced]

I got stuck at tesco garage last night, very embarrassing, got it going, saw a friend, would not go again. Got home, stopped it. Tried again and perfect! Renault are pretty insistent a flashing light is going to point towards the key. Mine has gone from holding in the button and it working to just not! I think it would make sense its the key, got to a point that squeezing it has no effect any longer. Will let you know what Renault say.

 

[GrahamS]

LED on solid - Key recognised and authorised to start but system node, gateway or other fault present. Unable to start vehicle so system still armed.

Mick

Holy thread revival Batman

Got this problem at the moment intermittently on the DCI, does the same with both keys so that rules them out.

What can I check before getting clip plugged in. Nothing shows on RS tuner

 

[MicKPM]

UCH is most likely cause i'm afraid then

 

[GrahamS]

MicKPM Thanks Mick, doesn't sound kind on the wallet to me. oh great! What do I need to change/have programmed to sort that then. I'm breaking my 182 at the moment so would any of the bits from that help me out.

I'll make sure I don't break the news to my girlfriend until I know what to do

 

[MicKPM]

As per this

A new key is likely to cure this yeah but it may also be a UCH fault... Something else not cheap!

Easiest thing, and I say this not as a trader simply trying to extract £25 from your pocket, is have it plugged in on CLIP!

This will do more than "code read" as firstly it will inspect the digital network signals to see if its a wiring fault. Then, if that passes you can move on to the UCH to see if the key is being recognised or not (this tells you if its the key or the UCH as being the fault).

£25 to know is better than guessing on a £140 key or a £380 UCH. You could replace the lot I guess for £100-140 with a matched second hand set but I try and steer people away from this unless money is their primary concern as these parts are starting to get old now and they do have a finite life span.

Mick

 

[mark smith87]

My ph1 172 has developed this fault today. Came out to it and unlocked ok using the remote key fob. Tried to start the engine and it ran for a few seconds then stalled. Tried to restart it and the red warning light in the centre of the instrument panel started flashing fast while turning the key. It's never done this before. I have owned the car five and a half years and it's always been reliable. I had a broken wire on the loom from the ecu a couple of years ago and that got sorted by an auto electrician who replaced the broken wire. The battery is in good condition so it's not a low voltage issue. I have tried both remote keys but not tried holding the button in while I turn it in the ignition barrel. I also have a key that doesn't have a fob on it that opens the doors and boot manually. Typically it would have to go wrong the Friday before Xmas. I don't use the car much at the moment so its possible the engine bay is a bit damp after all the foul weather.
Any suggestions how I can get the car running without resorting to getting it towed to a garage?

 

[MicKPM]

You can't. Red flashing light is key not authorised to start the vehicle. Chances are it is going nowhere and a new key is required.

 

[Ciaran5003]

You can't. Red flashing light is key not authorised to start the vehicle. Chances are it is going nowhere and a new key is required.

What does solid red light, which won't go out mean?

 

[GrahamS]

UCH is most likely cause i'm afraid then

Just wanted to follow this up. We solved the problem our DCI by changing the ecu relay (7700414484) and there have been no problems since.

I've also since come across a solid red light twice on a kangoo and my DCI. Kangoo was solved with the relay again. My DCI has a loose gearbox earth.

What does solid red light, which won't go out mean?

Check both above points for solid red light. Do all your wiper/window/locking functions work. If they are also dead it's a sign of UCH failure. Relays are located in the engine bay fuse box. Look for the smallest ones.

 

[MicKPM]

What does solid red light, which won't go out mean?

Solid red LED means the key is valid and authorised to start but there is something on CAN not working so the vehicle will not start

 

[Ciaran5003]

Solid red LED means the key is valid and authorised to start but there is something on CAN not working so the vehicle will not start

Gonna have to get it towed to a garage then.