Pug 205 gti
where in cardiff are you from chap?
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New: F7P Turbo Project
- Thread starter Nickharding
- Start date
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- Tags
- turbo
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
im in a village about 12 miles from cardiff, right next to the airport, called rhoose, You mate?
Pug 205 gti
ah i know, im from brecon but im in cardiff all the time. if you need any help with the car buddy give me a pm
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Ah cheers dan, gonna drop you one now 
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Thanks Jon, but it seems different to the one i posted? things dont match up? for example, 31 says not connected, but on that sheet says its one of the grounds for the "knocking sensor"?
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Will scan the sheet i was following when i get in and post it up, i got danno 172 coming over a week tomorrow to give me a hand, we think we can sort it all in one day, should be do able.
1
16vturbolee
I have an f7p turbo if i can help with anything bud....
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Thanks Lee, what boost, turbo and compression are you running?
1
16vturbolee
just over 1 bar. t28, low comp fully forged.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Ah right, im running 7psi (to start with) t25/t28 turbo, and machined pistons, gonna go forged when its all in and i know everything works, 200bhp as a starting point will do me for some time, Hopefully .
.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Danno 172' has very kindly offered to come over for the day on sat to help me work out the loom, get on with soldering, labeling, getting it wrapped etc, will most likely take all day, looking forward to meeting my 1st cliosport member though!
Very kind of him, Will take pics as we crack on, will post them up on sunday.
Very kind of him, Will take pics as we crack on, will post them up on sunday.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Dan couldnt come down last sat due to being ill but hopefully will be down this weekend, im still having problems finding out what loom i have, is a nightmare, going to the scray yard in a couple of hours, got my old man to take me, will be collecting a few bits, my 1.2 connector, Altonator bracket to get loose PAS, there are a few mk 1's in my local scrappy, some new in i think, so will try and collect a couple of brackets, New hazard switch etc, Update later.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Went to the scrap yard last night, managed to fine 2 PH1's and a 172 sport, i took the master connections from all, just so i got something to look at and incase i mess something up. For the 3 sets of connections he only wanted £2, bargain i thought considering i had a load of fuses and a hazard switch in my back pocket. Couldn't find a altonator bracket though, They are £18 from renault, Il either pay that, or make something my self.
The one in the middle is the one i will be using, thats from the sport. The 2 on the outside are from the PH1's. The only reason i will be using the one from the sport is because there is more rows with more pins in it, so i can move the pins to the correct location more easily.
The loom is now fully labeled. here is a pic from above, not a very good one though sorry.
Lee (My brother) come down from Bristol today to give me a hand, he has missed not having stuff like this to fiddle with, and said he wanted to give me a hand, We used all the info we had to hand and managed to get the entire loom labeled.
Here is the info i had to hand..
This is one of Foxy's that he kindly sent me.
After i had chopped my white and brown off, labeled them to there positions on the block, (A1 - A2, etc) I soon realised something wasen't right, after a short chat to Jord to explain how my blocks dont match up with his diagram, he told me there are 4 phases, 1, 1.5, 2 and 2.5, i think mine was a 2.5 but not sure, after a short while me and Lee got auto data working (2009 Copy) and had the data handy from that.
We worked most of the loom out from the pin data to the ECU, but the other wires and connections we couldnt work out, we had to Jord's info and work it out from there, along with the diagram in the haynes manual..
In the end, we worked it out, that what i had, was this..
So as the loom sits at the mo, nearly everything is labeled, there are 2 relays, and 2 connectors that i aint yet worked out, but wont take me long.
I have started to bind it back together from the ECU end, although the other end is a complete mess.
For me to use this engine with 172 clocks, i have to adjust the wiring, thats why i got those connections from the scrap yard last night.
After talking to Jord last night, the rev counter gets its reading from the TDC sensor, so i can tap into the signal wire on the loom side and run that off to join the connector block i got from the scrap yard, about to do this in a min so will get pics after.
I also removed the connection for the Carbon Canister, and also removed the oil level/temp guage connector and sensor, as this will not be used because there is no gauge for this on the 172 clocks.
I also replaced a wire because it had cooked, on the connection to the carbon canister, engine vibration must have made the lead move back and forth alot and in the end wore one of the wires away, now at some point it has re-touched again and shorted, cooking the wire, completly, now luckily this was a wire that could be stripped anyway, but when this must of happened it cooked some other wires around it, so i snipped out the bad bit and soldered in some new cable.
Also, a few months ago i bought a TDC sensor, it can be used on many Renaults, turns out was the wrong one for my engine and i lost the reciept, so i just cut the male off the TDC wire, and will solder on a female so it can plug into my loom, Job done.
Inlet manifold will be going on tomorrow. More pics later.
The one in the middle is the one i will be using, thats from the sport. The 2 on the outside are from the PH1's. The only reason i will be using the one from the sport is because there is more rows with more pins in it, so i can move the pins to the correct location more easily.
The loom is now fully labeled. here is a pic from above, not a very good one though sorry.
Lee (My brother) come down from Bristol today to give me a hand, he has missed not having stuff like this to fiddle with, and said he wanted to give me a hand, We used all the info we had to hand and managed to get the entire loom labeled.
Here is the info i had to hand..
This is one of Foxy's that he kindly sent me.
After i had chopped my white and brown off, labeled them to there positions on the block, (A1 - A2, etc) I soon realised something wasen't right, after a short chat to Jord to explain how my blocks dont match up with his diagram, he told me there are 4 phases, 1, 1.5, 2 and 2.5, i think mine was a 2.5 but not sure, after a short while me and Lee got auto data working (2009 Copy) and had the data handy from that.
We worked most of the loom out from the pin data to the ECU, but the other wires and connections we couldnt work out, we had to Jord's info and work it out from there, along with the diagram in the haynes manual..
In the end, we worked it out, that what i had, was this..
So as the loom sits at the mo, nearly everything is labeled, there are 2 relays, and 2 connectors that i aint yet worked out, but wont take me long.
I have started to bind it back together from the ECU end, although the other end is a complete mess.
For me to use this engine with 172 clocks, i have to adjust the wiring, thats why i got those connections from the scrap yard last night.
After talking to Jord last night, the rev counter gets its reading from the TDC sensor, so i can tap into the signal wire on the loom side and run that off to join the connector block i got from the scrap yard, about to do this in a min so will get pics after.
I also removed the connection for the Carbon Canister, and also removed the oil level/temp guage connector and sensor, as this will not be used because there is no gauge for this on the 172 clocks.
I also replaced a wire because it had cooked, on the connection to the carbon canister, engine vibration must have made the lead move back and forth alot and in the end wore one of the wires away, now at some point it has re-touched again and shorted, cooking the wire, completly, now luckily this was a wire that could be stripped anyway, but when this must of happened it cooked some other wires around it, so i snipped out the bad bit and soldered in some new cable.
Also, a few months ago i bought a TDC sensor, it can be used on many Renaults, turns out was the wrong one for my engine and i lost the reciept, so i just cut the male off the TDC wire, and will solder on a female so it can plug into my loom, Job done.
Inlet manifold will be going on tomorrow. More pics later.
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R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Can anyone please confirm what is the feed for the TDC sensor? pin 11 or 28? .. one should be an earth and one a signal? .. i need to tap into it for my rev gauge to work..
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Yeh we talked about it and were still not sure, he told me to check it with a multimeter, but cant seem to get hold of one!
Thanks Dude.
You hate electrics?
I done a loom before for the same engine but not in this depth, its easy when you got the info i posted above, just took a while to get through.
Thanks Dude.
You hate electrics?
I done a loom before for the same engine but not in this depth, its easy when you got the info i posted above, just took a while to get through.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Decided to have a bit of a clean up in my room today, and take a look at the top half of the engine to have a break from working on my loom.
I noticed that the thermostat housing pipe was digging into my desk not making it sit level and probs putting alot of strain on the housing it self, so went and got some blocks from the burner in the garage and stuck it on that to clear it from hitting.
Decided to get the inlet manifold back on, after my new nuts turning up with crimped ends, so as you do them up they bite the thread tight so vibration wont un do them, a new gasket lying there, thought i may as well get this on, so i did.
I was going to remove the sump plug as i got a new washer for it to put in place, my socket fitted perfectly, but just munched it, so now need a new plug, bit annoyed about that.
Tomorrow will be removing the Oil Level/temp sensor from the block because i removed this connection from the loom as i wont be installing this gauge in my clio.
Just about to start wrapping the loom, Update soon.
I noticed that the thermostat housing pipe was digging into my desk not making it sit level and probs putting alot of strain on the housing it self, so went and got some blocks from the burner in the garage and stuck it on that to clear it from hitting.
Decided to get the inlet manifold back on, after my new nuts turning up with crimped ends, so as you do them up they bite the thread tight so vibration wont un do them, a new gasket lying there, thought i may as well get this on, so i did.
I was going to remove the sump plug as i got a new washer for it to put in place, my socket fitted perfectly, but just munched it, so now need a new plug, bit annoyed about that.
Tomorrow will be removing the Oil Level/temp sensor from the block because i removed this connection from the loom as i wont be installing this gauge in my clio.
Just about to start wrapping the loom, Update soon.
Rob
ClioSport Moderator
Hi mate, said I'd have a read, just sat and read the lot, would love to have the funds/space to give what your doing a go, love wiring, so I'd love the challenge! LOL!
Looks a nice project so far, insurance is really gonna bum ya, I know you said the company would sort it, but I guess time will tell.
As for not having a multi meter, they are dead cheap mate, just pick one up from an electrical store.
Looks a nice project so far, insurance is really gonna bum ya, I know you said the company would sort it, but I guess time will tell.
As for not having a multi meter, they are dead cheap mate, just pick one up from an electrical store.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
All good then i guess! - I cant wait to get the big ends, mains and thrusts next, and get the crank up off the floor.
Sorry about earlier on msn, some little t**t got my password and i had to change it very quickly.
The only thing with funding is my birthday is a week today (20th) and im sitting my theory test (paid for) on the 23rd, il be booking my parc a couple of weeks after with lessons inbetween.
I need front disks and pads for my clio then im good to go. MOT is in feb i think, if i remember LDS (local motorfactors) said i could get Apec stuff (not the cheap stuff) for 40 all in, if i remember, not bad at all.
But when this engine is done, will be my every day car, so will have to make sure its reliable.
Getting there though, Good luck with the sale of your car too
Sorry about earlier on msn, some little t**t got my password and i had to change it very quickly.
The only thing with funding is my birthday is a week today (20th) and im sitting my theory test (paid for) on the 23rd, il be booking my parc a couple of weeks after with lessons inbetween.
I need front disks and pads for my clio then im good to go. MOT is in feb i think, if i remember LDS (local motorfactors) said i could get Apec stuff (not the cheap stuff) for 40 all in, if i remember, not bad at all.
But when this engine is done, will be my every day car, so will have to make sure its reliable.
Getting there though, Good luck with the sale of your car too
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Can someone please tell me what this connector is for? It is a 2 Pin Female connector. It is also the 1st connector back from the relays/main connection.
The wires from this connector do not go back towards the ECU or in that direction, each wire goes to a different Relay, any ideas?, this is the only connection unlabeled on my loom :O
The wires from this connector do not go back towards the ECU or in that direction, each wire goes to a different Relay, any ideas?, this is the only connection unlabeled on my loom :O
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Thanks for getting back so fast Rob, can anyone else confirm this?
Cheers.
Cheers.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Ah right, brill, just sent you a PM actually
Clio Hybrid / S3
Can't find any pictures i'm afraid but basically the the large pipe from thermostat housing to rad has a small pipe coming off into the external pump at the bottom. It has a pipe that goes into the side of the pump also which joins the pipes that connect to the engine water pump, drivers side radiator and oil cooler (and the metal pipes that go around the block)
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Yeah perfect, just found a pic of this, Thanks alot! will be stripping this out now
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Todays 2 hours of progress:
Decided to take the top half of the engine out to the garage and rest it ontop of the block to see if the cambelt Lee bought was the right one. On the pics were you can see the belt, notice i havent fitted the oil pump drive pulley as this has to go on after the plastic cover, that only goes on after the crank has been put back in.
Turns out it was the right belt though, pic..
As posted above, i removed the oil level/temp sensor from the loom, this has obviously left me with a hole in the block, i got my father to bring home a bung but turned out to be the wrong thread, so i just snipped the wires off the sensor saw'd the sensor bit off so it just remained to be a metal bung blocking the whole, one wrap of PTFE tape and jobs a good 'un
General Pics..
^^ Will look mint when i order my new manifold, turbo will ne built up as soon as i have a shaft, pics of core being built coming soon.
You can see from my previous post above that i was unsure what one of the sensors was, this was my only unlabeled sensor and i couldnt work it out from the files i had because it went from an earth to a relay, turns out it was an External water pump connector, well i done away with this when i took ownership of the engine, in the next few pics it is in place as i have no pics since i stripped it out.
I do have a pic of my new earth point which will go to the chassis.
I had to fit the loom to the engine to make sure everything still reached the sensors, because since i had unwrapped the entire loom it started to loose shape, managed to get it all back in shape 1st go and luckily everything reached. I dont happen to have a gearbox (will be using a 172 box) so i am unsure to if the reverse light switch is going to reach, if it dont will just have to extend the wires.
Pics of loom on engine and labeled..
The only things left to do on the loom are:
- Replace the Lambda sensor connector
- Replace the 4 injector connectors as they are all broken
- I also need a female TDC connection (for the sensor side) because when Lee bought the TDC sensor, it was the wrong one, will work fine when it has a new connection on, so i cut it off on the sensor side ready to solder the new one on, may as well use it, its brand new!
Pic of my new earth point after soldering and shrink wrapped..
In the end, not a bad 2 hours work.
Decided to take the top half of the engine out to the garage and rest it ontop of the block to see if the cambelt Lee bought was the right one. On the pics were you can see the belt, notice i havent fitted the oil pump drive pulley as this has to go on after the plastic cover, that only goes on after the crank has been put back in.
Turns out it was the right belt though, pic..
As posted above, i removed the oil level/temp sensor from the loom, this has obviously left me with a hole in the block, i got my father to bring home a bung but turned out to be the wrong thread, so i just snipped the wires off the sensor saw'd the sensor bit off so it just remained to be a metal bung blocking the whole, one wrap of PTFE tape and jobs a good 'un
General Pics..
^^ Will look mint when i order my new manifold, turbo will ne built up as soon as i have a shaft, pics of core being built coming soon.
You can see from my previous post above that i was unsure what one of the sensors was, this was my only unlabeled sensor and i couldnt work it out from the files i had because it went from an earth to a relay, turns out it was an External water pump connector, well i done away with this when i took ownership of the engine, in the next few pics it is in place as i have no pics since i stripped it out.
I do have a pic of my new earth point which will go to the chassis.
I had to fit the loom to the engine to make sure everything still reached the sensors, because since i had unwrapped the entire loom it started to loose shape, managed to get it all back in shape 1st go and luckily everything reached. I dont happen to have a gearbox (will be using a 172 box) so i am unsure to if the reverse light switch is going to reach, if it dont will just have to extend the wires.
Pics of loom on engine and labeled..
The only things left to do on the loom are:
- Replace the Lambda sensor connector
- Replace the 4 injector connectors as they are all broken
- I also need a female TDC connection (for the sensor side) because when Lee bought the TDC sensor, it was the wrong one, will work fine when it has a new connection on, so i cut it off on the sensor side ready to solder the new one on, may as well use it, its brand new!
Pic of my new earth point after soldering and shrink wrapped..
In the end, not a bad 2 hours work.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Thanks mate.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Yeh i know, but there isn't a gauge for it on the mk 2 clocks, so its not needed, so whats the point?
Its pretty easy to keep an eye on your oil level.
Its pretty easy to keep an eye on your oil level.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Wanna get me a pic and show me were? if its were you think, my oil pressure warning light will be linked to that.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
Not sure, dont on my 1.2 clocks? i aint heard of this??
Its not needed anyway, just keep an eye on it every now and then, Although my oil pressure warning light will be going to the "Oil squirter" symbol on the clocks.
Its not needed anyway, just keep an eye on it every now and then, Although my oil pressure warning light will be going to the "Oil squirter" symbol on the clocks.
R5 GTT EFI Clio.
No its not, Its the oil level/temp sensor, I labeled these to show you.
The Oil Pressure sender which i have labeled above, will have an after market sensor going in it with a T peice, so the oil pressor sensor is in one, and the oil feed to the turbo comes out the top of the T.
What i may do, is instead of having a T on the back, i could move the oil pressure sender and T to go were the oil pressure warning light is, and have both coming out of that, so on the back its just feed and return to the turbo, would this be a better idea?
I just dont want any cables close to excessive heat, all it means is i would have to extent one more cable so it reaches around to the front of the block?
Thoughts?
The Oil Pressure sender which i have labeled above, will have an after market sensor going in it with a T peice, so the oil pressor sensor is in one, and the oil feed to the turbo comes out the top of the T.
What i may do, is instead of having a T on the back, i could move the oil pressure sender and T to go were the oil pressure warning light is, and have both coming out of that, so on the back its just feed and return to the turbo, would this be a better idea?
I just dont want any cables close to excessive heat, all it means is i would have to extent one more cable so it reaches around to the front of the block?
Thoughts?
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