Ok this is just my way, I take no responsibility for any damage to the car etc.
For a first time this will take (at a guess = 8 hours)
Please remember to note/take pictures of which bolts go where!
On some of my pictures you will see my engine has been removed, this guide is to change with the engine in, the pictures just make good refrence.
1. Get a suitable work space, using a cracker bar loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts, then take your 21 mm swan neck spanner and crack the top mounts of the suspension, jack the car up at the front end and secure with axel stands giving a decent amount of height (at least one and a half times the height of the gearbox IT HAS TO COME OUT FROM THE BOTTOM!!)
Remove the front bumper,
to do this firstly remove the top grill which is held in by two push pins, then under the front of each wheel arch there is a 10mm bolt (its hard to find but common sense would lead you to it) then under the car remove the sump cover (4 x 10 mm bolts) then there should be a further two bolts holding the bumper on attached the sub frame. ***note if you have an mrk1 172 there is two extra 10mm bolts holding the bumper on just below the lights.
3. With the bumper off return to the engine bay and remove the air box, induction bend and vacuum hose, mrk2 172 there is 3-4 10mm bolts holding the box in place and the mrk1 172 is just a rubber strap holding it of, the vacuum hose will pull put and the elbow is secured via a Jubilee clip.
4. Then remove the battery (this is held in by a 16mm bolt on the right-hand side (you will need an extension bar for your socket) once that is removed remove (or move right over the ECU bract and ecu (this is held down by a number of 10mm bolts remove them all and whip ALL THE BLACK BRACKETRY out.
in my pic I have removed the ECU, also there is a couple of bolts holding the PAS line down remove these too DONT DO IT UNLESS YOU HAVE TOO YOU SHOULD JUST BE ABLE TO MOVE IT.
5. Now (with the engine stone cold) get a pair of mole grips and remove the clip holding the water hose to the lower part of the radiator, the water should empty for about 30 seconds, I removed the other water hose around the gearbox too just for ease of access. The this bit is a pain in the arse = look in the pic at fig 2 these are the in and out for the heater matrix the pipes are held in buy clips that need depressing on either side (there hard but once there both in the hose will pull out) then cable tie all the water hoses out the way. I remove the water reservoir too this is held on buy two 10mm bolts
6.Next remove the Dog bone mount on either side 13 or 16mm bolts then just leave it to hang (the dog bone mount is under the engine and is bolts to the gearbox and sub frame)
7. Then remove the inlet Pelham, this is secured again by 10mm bolts (two on the top right at the back, about 6 on the front where it bolts the inlet manifold) then remove all the sensors on it – try and just unclip the loom from them rather than remove the sensors from the manifold as they tend to brake, remove the coil pack this is secured via 4 10mm bolts)I always tape the holes up as there’s bound to be something fall in! There is also a brake vacuum pipe at the back right-hand side this jus t pulls off.
8. Back under the car – remove the exhaust from the cat back (DO NOT REMOVE THE CAT AS THERE A PAIN TO DO)Then remove the gear selector rod (13mm bolt and it just pulls off)
Then at the back of the engine is the exhaust manifold. This held on buy around 8-10.... 10mm bolts remove all these (people all ways get stock on the driver side one as it a bit to find let alone remove) once there all off the manifold should just come of with ease if not a little tap to free it, if it doesn’t then don’t force it you will have missed a bolt!
9. Back under the car take an oil pan and a your 8mm sump key to drain the gearbox oil then re fit the nut with a new copper washer.
10. Then remove the 4 16mm nuts on the top mount don’t remove the whole mount just the 4 nuts
11. Back down the hubs now remove the track rod arms (13mm) bolt to do this either take a trolley jack and jack the base of the joint where it mounts the hub (DO NOT JACK THE METAL ROD) this will allow you to remove the 13mm bolt if you don’t jack it up the bolt will just spin and spin!
Now remove the brake calliper and the brake disk and unclip the ABS plug (you must know how to do this
) just leave the calliper dangling on the hose it should be fine you can remove it if you want but you will have to bleed the brakes.
Then remove both sides of the suspension (2x 19 or 20mm bolts on each side) and the top nut that you previously crack will just spin off. Pull the shocks out and leave it assembled.Then under the hub there is two 17 or 18 mm bolts remove these and remove the drive shaft (on the drivers side it will just slide out) BUT DO NOT REMOVE THE HUB ON THE PASSENGER SIDE UNTILL YOU HAVE REMOVED THE 3 10MM OR 13MM BOLTS HOLDING THE SHAFT SEAL TO THE GEARBOX!!!
12. Now take a bit of wood 20cm by 20cm is fin, place the wood onto of the trolley jack and support the underside of the gearbox DONT PUSH IT UP JSUT TAKE A TINY BIT IF THE WIEGHT!
13. Now remove the lower gearbox mount, it bolts through the bottom of the sub frame into a bracket on the box. Remove the nut from under the frame and then remove all the nuts holding it to the box. The mount won’t come off yet as the thread will be going though the sub frame but later on all will come clear. But make sure all the bolts are off and the earth strap is removed.
14. Now this is hard bit and you can do it with a short cut if you’re confident! The sub frame needs to be dropped on one side
Loosed all 4 bolts (one in each corner) there is also a 13mm or 16mm support arm – remove the bolt. you are going to just drop the frame on the passenger side so make sure the bolts on the drivers has a good few threads on them so they don’t get damaged and support the passenger side of the frame, remove the bolts on the passenger side and the frame will drop onto your support, DO NOT PUSH IT DOWN TOO FAR OR YOU WILL NEED A NEW STEERING RACK ASWELL AS A GEARBOX
15. Now its time to remove the gearbox mount, some people take the top half off first but there is really no need and it just makes more work! The mount has a tap half and a lower half! In no order remove every bolt you can see on both parts there’s about 6 or 7 iirc! Then whip out the mount!
Now its time to remove the box at long last, there box is held in buy around 10 bolts and 3 nuts and the two 10mm TDC sensor bolts, most of them are on the front which you will be able to see! They go round from top to bottom look very hard for all the front ones! Certain bolts bolt to certain parts they all have different sized washers etc so take a pic before you remove as they need to go back there!
now the starter motor is also bolted to the box there are two bolts holding it on (there’s a heat shield which just pulls off), but before removing them you need to remove the power and earth for it, the earth is a 13mm or 16mm brass bolt and the power will just slide off (spade connection) now remove the starter motor (if it will sometimes the box has to come off first) see picture for the start motor bolts and connections.
17. With all the bolts off the box remove the clutch cable and start to pull the box out, it won’t just drop as it has guides holding it on, this is where you need a second person as the box will crush you if it falls on you! Keep pulling and lower your support jack from before a bit tilting the whole engine, it will now be off the runners and with lots of swearing and cuts you will be able to remove it out the wheel arch / sub frame woohoo!
18. I would at this point change the clutch as there only £100 and will normally go at around 40-60k, take you new box and re fit (make sure the clutch fork is fitted correctly and that the spleen fits straight into the clutch.
19. Then re fit the box and bolt it up, make sure you put the starter motor in first! Re fit the TDC sensor and the cables and heat shield to the starter motor.
20. Then re fit the lower gearbox mount to the box.
21. Jack up the sub frame and secure all 4 bolts, support arms and bolt the lower mount on.
22. Re fit the driveshafts and hubs, track rods and suspension components.
23. Exhaust manifold, inlet Pelham and associated sensors
24. Re fit the gearbox mount nice and tight
25. Water lines to the matrix, radiator, block and reservoir
26. Now you need to refuel the box oil. Follow this guide
At the front of the gear box there is a plastic wing nut, remove this it unwinds and can be quite tight!
Get a flexible funnel that will bend into the hole,
take the oil and fill the gearbox until it reaches the bottom of the hole! Leave for 5 mins so it can sink down then double check
Tighten the wing nut back up
27. Now re fit the ECU tray, battery and air box.
28. Double check that all the sensors, hoses, vac pipes, bolts are fitted!
29. Re fit bumper and wheels, sump cover , dog bone mount etc
30. To re fill the water system fill to the max mark, start the car let it run
until it gets hot, once it does the thermostat will open and the water will drop very fast, using a tea towel (be very carful) open the reservoir and fill up to max again.. Let the car run for a while, and keep your eye on the water over the next few days.
31. Drop the car back down onto level ground, then open the wing nut again and double check its at the bottom of the hole, if not top it up via the little black filler on top of the box!
Any problems PM me. And ill give you my number.
For a first time this will take (at a guess = 8 hours)
Please remember to note/take pictures of which bolts go where!
On some of my pictures you will see my engine has been removed, this guide is to change with the engine in, the pictures just make good refrence.
1. Get a suitable work space, using a cracker bar loosen but do not remove the wheel nuts, then take your 21 mm swan neck spanner and crack the top mounts of the suspension, jack the car up at the front end and secure with axel stands giving a decent amount of height (at least one and a half times the height of the gearbox IT HAS TO COME OUT FROM THE BOTTOM!!)
Remove the front bumper,
to do this firstly remove the top grill which is held in by two push pins, then under the front of each wheel arch there is a 10mm bolt (its hard to find but common sense would lead you to it) then under the car remove the sump cover (4 x 10 mm bolts) then there should be a further two bolts holding the bumper on attached the sub frame. ***note if you have an mrk1 172 there is two extra 10mm bolts holding the bumper on just below the lights.
3. With the bumper off return to the engine bay and remove the air box, induction bend and vacuum hose, mrk2 172 there is 3-4 10mm bolts holding the box in place and the mrk1 172 is just a rubber strap holding it of, the vacuum hose will pull put and the elbow is secured via a Jubilee clip.
4. Then remove the battery (this is held in by a 16mm bolt on the right-hand side (you will need an extension bar for your socket) once that is removed remove (or move right over the ECU bract and ecu (this is held down by a number of 10mm bolts remove them all and whip ALL THE BLACK BRACKETRY out.
in my pic I have removed the ECU, also there is a couple of bolts holding the PAS line down remove these too DONT DO IT UNLESS YOU HAVE TOO YOU SHOULD JUST BE ABLE TO MOVE IT.
5. Now (with the engine stone cold) get a pair of mole grips and remove the clip holding the water hose to the lower part of the radiator, the water should empty for about 30 seconds, I removed the other water hose around the gearbox too just for ease of access. The this bit is a pain in the arse = look in the pic at fig 2 these are the in and out for the heater matrix the pipes are held in buy clips that need depressing on either side (there hard but once there both in the hose will pull out) then cable tie all the water hoses out the way. I remove the water reservoir too this is held on buy two 10mm bolts
6.Next remove the Dog bone mount on either side 13 or 16mm bolts then just leave it to hang (the dog bone mount is under the engine and is bolts to the gearbox and sub frame)
7. Then remove the inlet Pelham, this is secured again by 10mm bolts (two on the top right at the back, about 6 on the front where it bolts the inlet manifold) then remove all the sensors on it – try and just unclip the loom from them rather than remove the sensors from the manifold as they tend to brake, remove the coil pack this is secured via 4 10mm bolts)I always tape the holes up as there’s bound to be something fall in! There is also a brake vacuum pipe at the back right-hand side this jus t pulls off.
8. Back under the car – remove the exhaust from the cat back (DO NOT REMOVE THE CAT AS THERE A PAIN TO DO)Then remove the gear selector rod (13mm bolt and it just pulls off)
Then at the back of the engine is the exhaust manifold. This held on buy around 8-10.... 10mm bolts remove all these (people all ways get stock on the driver side one as it a bit to find let alone remove) once there all off the manifold should just come of with ease if not a little tap to free it, if it doesn’t then don’t force it you will have missed a bolt!
9. Back under the car take an oil pan and a your 8mm sump key to drain the gearbox oil then re fit the nut with a new copper washer.
10. Then remove the 4 16mm nuts on the top mount don’t remove the whole mount just the 4 nuts
11. Back down the hubs now remove the track rod arms (13mm) bolt to do this either take a trolley jack and jack the base of the joint where it mounts the hub (DO NOT JACK THE METAL ROD) this will allow you to remove the 13mm bolt if you don’t jack it up the bolt will just spin and spin!
Now remove the brake calliper and the brake disk and unclip the ABS plug (you must know how to do this
) just leave the calliper dangling on the hose it should be fine you can remove it if you want but you will have to bleed the brakes.Then remove both sides of the suspension (2x 19 or 20mm bolts on each side) and the top nut that you previously crack will just spin off. Pull the shocks out and leave it assembled.Then under the hub there is two 17 or 18 mm bolts remove these and remove the drive shaft (on the drivers side it will just slide out) BUT DO NOT REMOVE THE HUB ON THE PASSENGER SIDE UNTILL YOU HAVE REMOVED THE 3 10MM OR 13MM BOLTS HOLDING THE SHAFT SEAL TO THE GEARBOX!!!
12. Now take a bit of wood 20cm by 20cm is fin, place the wood onto of the trolley jack and support the underside of the gearbox DONT PUSH IT UP JSUT TAKE A TINY BIT IF THE WIEGHT!
13. Now remove the lower gearbox mount, it bolts through the bottom of the sub frame into a bracket on the box. Remove the nut from under the frame and then remove all the nuts holding it to the box. The mount won’t come off yet as the thread will be going though the sub frame but later on all will come clear. But make sure all the bolts are off and the earth strap is removed.
14. Now this is hard bit and you can do it with a short cut if you’re confident! The sub frame needs to be dropped on one side
Loosed all 4 bolts (one in each corner) there is also a 13mm or 16mm support arm – remove the bolt. you are going to just drop the frame on the passenger side so make sure the bolts on the drivers has a good few threads on them so they don’t get damaged and support the passenger side of the frame, remove the bolts on the passenger side and the frame will drop onto your support, DO NOT PUSH IT DOWN TOO FAR OR YOU WILL NEED A NEW STEERING RACK ASWELL AS A GEARBOX
15. Now its time to remove the gearbox mount, some people take the top half off first but there is really no need and it just makes more work! The mount has a tap half and a lower half! In no order remove every bolt you can see on both parts there’s about 6 or 7 iirc! Then whip out the mount!
Now its time to remove the box at long last, there box is held in buy around 10 bolts and 3 nuts and the two 10mm TDC sensor bolts, most of them are on the front which you will be able to see! They go round from top to bottom look very hard for all the front ones! Certain bolts bolt to certain parts they all have different sized washers etc so take a pic before you remove as they need to go back there!
now the starter motor is also bolted to the box there are two bolts holding it on (there’s a heat shield which just pulls off), but before removing them you need to remove the power and earth for it, the earth is a 13mm or 16mm brass bolt and the power will just slide off (spade connection) now remove the starter motor (if it will sometimes the box has to come off first) see picture for the start motor bolts and connections.
17. With all the bolts off the box remove the clutch cable and start to pull the box out, it won’t just drop as it has guides holding it on, this is where you need a second person as the box will crush you if it falls on you! Keep pulling and lower your support jack from before a bit tilting the whole engine, it will now be off the runners and with lots of swearing and cuts you will be able to remove it out the wheel arch / sub frame woohoo!
18. I would at this point change the clutch as there only £100 and will normally go at around 40-60k, take you new box and re fit (make sure the clutch fork is fitted correctly and that the spleen fits straight into the clutch.
19. Then re fit the box and bolt it up, make sure you put the starter motor in first! Re fit the TDC sensor and the cables and heat shield to the starter motor.
20. Then re fit the lower gearbox mount to the box.
21. Jack up the sub frame and secure all 4 bolts, support arms and bolt the lower mount on.
22. Re fit the driveshafts and hubs, track rods and suspension components.
23. Exhaust manifold, inlet Pelham and associated sensors
24. Re fit the gearbox mount nice and tight
25. Water lines to the matrix, radiator, block and reservoir
26. Now you need to refuel the box oil. Follow this guide
At the front of the gear box there is a plastic wing nut, remove this it unwinds and can be quite tight!
Get a flexible funnel that will bend into the hole,
take the oil and fill the gearbox until it reaches the bottom of the hole! Leave for 5 mins so it can sink down then double check
Tighten the wing nut back up
27. Now re fit the ECU tray, battery and air box.
28. Double check that all the sensors, hoses, vac pipes, bolts are fitted!
29. Re fit bumper and wheels, sump cover , dog bone mount etc
30. To re fill the water system fill to the max mark, start the car let it run
until it gets hot, once it does the thermostat will open and the water will drop very fast, using a tea towel (be very carful) open the reservoir and fill up to max again.. Let the car run for a while, and keep your eye on the water over the next few days.
31. Drop the car back down onto level ground, then open the wing nut again and double check its at the bottom of the hole, if not top it up via the little black filler on top of the box!
Any problems PM me. And ill give you my number.
