If I only I had S15 money kicking about. TBF, I'd spend S15 money on something else boosted and Jap. There's a big list.
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TBH, I may as well just try something else if I'm going to get another car. If the chassis turns out bent, I'll have to!
RX7 (FC/D), JZX100, Toyota MarkII, Evo 4/5/6 or R32 GTR are the winners ATM.
RX7 (FC/D), JZX100, Toyota MarkII, Evo 4/5/6 or R32 GTR are the winners ATM.
Renault Clio 1.2 16v
Please, pleeeaase get an R32 GTR!!!
Insurance is the big factor.
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
+1
Only ever seen one for sale, up at Keighley cars. I'll never buy from those pirates.
I could live with that.
Seemed stupidly expensive when I looked into it with a couple of the big importers.
I'm not being funny but wouldn't I have to pay full VAT? Surely the car could be seized or something if customs found out?
no lol, say the car costs 5000 to buy... the importer will charge you 5k still but they take 2 payments, first will be the receipt for the car they normally put it through as 800 or 1000 quid, you then make a second payment of the remainder which isn't put on the receipt... so you pay tax on 1000 instead of 5000.... not exactly illegal more of a loop hole.
With a trackday looming for a friend's birthday at the end of October, I've decided I best sort out my handling issues and fit some parts that have sat around for months.
So I've finished stripping the spare diff, now to clean it all up and fit my kaaz...
Also after waiting for the energy suspension bushes to arrive, I got my arms finished off. Energy bushes in the lower arms, DW ones in the uprights. The ball joints are Nagisa Auto roll centre correcting doodahs, not cheap, but easier than cutting up arms and cheaper than the ready made alternatives. Neither bush brands are a perfect fit but they're good enough not to move anywhere they shouldn't, so decided they'll be OK...
So get the diff built up and shimmed up for the backlash, await front balljoints from Japan, polybush front lower arms and fit balljoint, fit new tie rods and tie rod ends, fit new rear subframe with diff, arms etc, align, enjoy.
So I've finished stripping the spare diff, now to clean it all up and fit my kaaz...
Also after waiting for the energy suspension bushes to arrive, I got my arms finished off. Energy bushes in the lower arms, DW ones in the uprights. The ball joints are Nagisa Auto roll centre correcting doodahs, not cheap, but easier than cutting up arms and cheaper than the ready made alternatives. Neither bush brands are a perfect fit but they're good enough not to move anywhere they shouldn't, so decided they'll be OK...
So get the diff built up and shimmed up for the backlash, await front balljoints from Japan, polybush front lower arms and fit balljoint, fit new tie rods and tie rod ends, fit new rear subframe with diff, arms etc, align, enjoy.
Edition 30
Overnight my arse. Takes a few weeks usually thanks to customs.
Cheers dude.
Cheers dude.
Exactly. It's the UK end that's useless, as usual!
Fiesta ST-3
I really need to see this in the flesh.
f**king brilliant!
f**king brilliant!
Had a valve snap on an 18 right before heading up to the BDC in Sunderland. No wonder it was losing air. Had to stick the 17s on the front, and on the Saturday night, we gave them a good charge up and got them in the darkest part of our campsite...
That was the first time I'd ever seen them glow so intensely, and to me, it was worth it!
That was the first time I'd ever seen them glow so intensely, and to me, it was worth it!
Cheers guys. 
Finally some time to myself and the car! Hoping to get a fair bit done this week, and should also be closer to taking it off the road for welding this winter as long as my workspace doesn't fall through.
Haven't touched the diff since I last posted, so today I've painted up the casing, backplate & output shafts...
Nothing fancy, just wire wheeled up, zinc primer then gloss black or aluminium. Ordered the input and output seals from Nissan today as the outputs had definitely leaked on this, and might as well do the input for piece of mind. Unfortunately, I've got a fortnight or so wait for them
Also got some Moog Tie Rods and Ends through the post a few weeks back...
Nascar approved Asia Spec apparently lol.
Haven't touched the diff since I last posted, so today I've painted up the casing, backplate & output shafts...
Nothing fancy, just wire wheeled up, zinc primer then gloss black or aluminium. Ordered the input and output seals from Nissan today as the outputs had definitely leaked on this, and might as well do the input for piece of mind. Unfortunately, I've got a fortnight or so wait for them
Also got some Moog Tie Rods and Ends through the post a few weeks back...
Nascar approved Asia Spec apparently lol.
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
LOL @ Asia Spec.
Thanks Andy.
More little bits to keep it ticking over.
Bolted the pinion ring to the Kaaz LSD, it's not torqued or got loctite on, as I may have to use some little engineering trickery to get the backlash correct with the few shims I have...
Also put the diff bushes into the casing after a couple of days leaving them in the freezer. Needed a bit of winding in with my patented "Super long M12 bolt & super thick penny washer bush pressing device", but nothing too strenuous...
In theory I could build the whole thing up now, but can't be bothered until I get the oil seals.
More little bits to keep it ticking over.
Bolted the pinion ring to the Kaaz LSD, it's not torqued or got loctite on, as I may have to use some little engineering trickery to get the backlash correct with the few shims I have...
Also put the diff bushes into the casing after a couple of days leaving them in the freezer. Needed a bit of winding in with my patented "Super long M12 bolt & super thick penny washer bush pressing device", but nothing too strenuous...
In theory I could build the whole thing up now, but can't be bothered until I get the oil seals.
TBH I plan on dropping it in when I rebuild the other engine. 6 months, optimistic. Far more to sort out chassis wise before then.
I'll find out when I put this subframe on. If all looks as it does now, the chassis is twisted, then I have to decide WTF to do!
Been a quiet 2 months LOL.
Anyway, a colleague of mine moved into the village a while back, and had offered me their "garage" to rent cheaply to sort the car out.
I had to smash a load of cabinets out and pull down a fence to get the car in! Also resealed the windows and door, and laid a carpet down to lay on.
The car has sat in there for nigh on a month now, but today progress began. Started off trying to get it in the air, but the battery has gone flat. So I used the crap scissor jack to get the front on wood and the rear tow eye to get the rear on wood, then I could jack it properly.
My friend Gaz who painted the car came round to give me a hand, and we got the exhaust and subframe off, then removed the diff from it. Had to take the prop out with the diff as it was the easiest option, which I can sort later.
Anyway, all I have left to remove now is the rear coilovers, fuel tank and bumper, and I can begin poking around for rust. Oh the joys!
Anyway, a colleague of mine moved into the village a while back, and had offered me their "garage" to rent cheaply to sort the car out.
I had to smash a load of cabinets out and pull down a fence to get the car in! Also resealed the windows and door, and laid a carpet down to lay on.
The car has sat in there for nigh on a month now, but today progress began. Started off trying to get it in the air, but the battery has gone flat. So I used the crap scissor jack to get the front on wood and the rear tow eye to get the rear on wood, then I could jack it properly.
My friend Gaz who painted the car came round to give me a hand, and we got the exhaust and subframe off, then removed the diff from it. Had to take the prop out with the diff as it was the easiest option, which I can sort later.
Anyway, all I have left to remove now is the rear coilovers, fuel tank and bumper, and I can begin poking around for rust. Oh the joys!
Spent a couple of hours in the garage tonight, stripping down parts already removed.
I'd knocked up a spanner at work yesterday with a welder's watchful eye to lock up the diff I'd started refurbishing, to loosen the centre bolt and remove the input flange...
This puppy was so tight my 24" breaker bar was bending big time. So I had a brain wave, and remembered Gaz who helped on Monday had left a 240v impact gun in the workspace in case I needed it. Popped that baby on it and the nut span off easily. Bearing pullers on the flange, and it's off. Need to change that oil seal, however, the ABS sensor shroud is in the way, so I need to look into that...
Faced with something I could easily break, I decided to make some room again by dismantling the bent subframe. This left with me with a pile of bits I need...
The Whiteline ARB, unsurprisingly, starting to rust after a year, alongside some parts I can sell...
Then before coming in, I split the rear section of the prop from the old diff. Now, everybody moans these bolts are a b**ch to remove because a normal ring spanner won't fit. This is easily resolved by chopping 2 of the 5/6 protruding threads off the end of the bolts with a hacksaw. Now, should I ever need to remove it in situ, it'll be a piece of piss...
Not bad going for a man who spends the full day in the cold playing with spanners anyway, usually meaning I can't be bothered to spend a few more hours of my own time doing it!
I'd knocked up a spanner at work yesterday with a welder's watchful eye to lock up the diff I'd started refurbishing, to loosen the centre bolt and remove the input flange...
This puppy was so tight my 24" breaker bar was bending big time. So I had a brain wave, and remembered Gaz who helped on Monday had left a 240v impact gun in the workspace in case I needed it. Popped that baby on it and the nut span off easily. Bearing pullers on the flange, and it's off. Need to change that oil seal, however, the ABS sensor shroud is in the way, so I need to look into that...
Faced with something I could easily break, I decided to make some room again by dismantling the bent subframe. This left with me with a pile of bits I need...
The Whiteline ARB, unsurprisingly, starting to rust after a year, alongside some parts I can sell...
Then before coming in, I split the rear section of the prop from the old diff. Now, everybody moans these bolts are a b**ch to remove because a normal ring spanner won't fit. This is easily resolved by chopping 2 of the 5/6 protruding threads off the end of the bolts with a hacksaw. Now, should I ever need to remove it in situ, it'll be a piece of piss...
Not bad going for a man who spends the full day in the cold playing with spanners anyway, usually meaning I can't be bothered to spend a few more hours of my own time doing it!
