Perhaps just general tossbags then?
As if they'd tell you "not for the general public" - get over yourself you total knob!
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Lumpy idle / tick over on 182
- Thread starter Davyboy888
- Start date
Perhaps just general tossbags then?
As if they'd tell you "not for the general public" - get over yourself you total knob!
2003 Clio 172
More questions...........
1.) Given that I suspect that the horse shoe is not going to go in once the crank is locked at tdc. Will the pulley locking tool be sufficient to hold everything while i loosen the intake pulley?
2.) Do i need to make any consideration for the position of the innards of the dephaser when I am bringing the intake cam into line? Or is that tough enough to not move while i do this?
I am sure there will be many MANY more before I even open the bonnet
J
1.) Given that I suspect that the horse shoe is not going to go in once the crank is locked at tdc. Will the pulley locking tool be sufficient to hold everything while i loosen the intake pulley?
2.) Do i need to make any consideration for the position of the innards of the dephaser when I am bringing the intake cam into line? Or is that tough enough to not move while i do this?
I am sure there will be many MANY more before I even open the bonnet
J
2003 Clio 172
Pinging @Davyboy888 @bloke @fleabay and @Turbo steve
Hoping to get guidance before apocalypse weekend here :|
Admins, would I be better spinning this into a separate thread? I thought seeing as it seems super identical to Davy's it might be prudent to keep my waffle in here
J
Hoping to get guidance before apocalypse weekend here :|
Admins, would I be better spinning this into a separate thread? I thought seeing as it seems super identical to Davy's it might be prudent to keep my waffle in here
J
2003 Clio 172
Stumped last night as my 14mm hex was missing ffs. New one bought and ready to go today.
Managed to get the butchered aux tensioner bolt replaced though so at least I got that done.
Getting the feeling that the exhaust cam is out a fraction too. Will see once I get the inlet freed up.
In terms of what i can get away with without pulling the aux belt and crank pulleys off.... if I have to loosen the exhaust pulley.....will the belt lose its tension?
In my head....the belt as a whole is under tension...even with the pulleys loosened.....is that correct?
Also...the guide mentions "horsing"
the pulley tool gears up.....how horsed up is horsed?Finally.....can someone let me know the torques for the pulley bolts and dephaser seal for reassembly? The manual references DaNM........is that different to NM?
Sorry, brain farting here.
J
2003 Clio 172
Lol.
No bud.....some member did a word document and mentioned "horsing" the pulley locking bolts up really tight.....just trying to work out if there is an official figure
J
Ol’ Tarby
ClioSport Moderator
Clio 220 Trophy
I think horsing may be the equivalent of FT....
2003 Clio 172
2003 Clio 172
Right. That was awful. Anyway.......got it timed and checked many times. Struggled to get the elusive horse shoe slipping in....seem to be some rough edges on the cams where the tool goes. Looked like it should go in but it rarely did......even when everything was locked up.
Anyway.......it goes in with a bit of a heave.
Started and ran seemingly smoother.....but perhaps I wanted it to. Not sure. Doubting myself a bit.
Waiting for it to cool and gonna check timing again and to get a pic (forgot)
Down side is my MAP reading which is still aroind 500.
J
Anyway.......it goes in with a bit of a heave.
Started and ran seemingly smoother.....but perhaps I wanted it to. Not sure. Doubting myself a bit.
Waiting for it to cool and gonna check timing again and to get a pic (forgot)
Down side is my MAP reading which is still aroind 500.
J
The Renault manual states Idle manifold pressure - 320 to 500 mbars
2003 Clio 172
LOL! It literally took me the whole weekend bud......I had it timed up (or so i thought) about 8 times, no joke.........even had it back together and running and split it all apart again. Hell of a job to be honest. But......at least I have had a punt at "THE JOB I NEVER WANTED TO DO" and seem to have come out unscathed. :smiley:
I can see that unless you were absolutely on point with it every time, it would be hard to charge an amount in labour that wouldn't shaft you.
I can also see why some general mechanics will get it close, but not right. I doubt many would have went as far as I did to have it as close to perfect as I did.
yeha.....pin in (proper tdc) and horse shoe literally slips in and slides about.
Haven't touched the map sensor or injectors buddy....spent that budget on the Renault timing tools *sigh* but worth it IMO. Still noticed a slight hesitation on pick up today but I am still scared to gun it. even though I used Fred(tm) torque figures on the dephaser bolt :smiley:
I guess they are the next port of call depending on cost etc. Any thoughts on which one to pick first?
J
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If you don't like the readings from your map sensor I'd do that first, but a new set of injectors does make a significant difference to knackered old ones.
Bite the bullet and stick both on a credit card, do em together and enjoy the improvement
2003 Clio 172
Fk sake man..........I never want to do that again lol but I do agree, after a few times I knew the steps and was getting better.
If I had room on my cards.....I would probably do just that fella. Have to be a bit measured these days
J
Renault Clio RS 182
@jinjur So sorry for not dipping in here... notifications are no longer coming through on eMail to me and I was really busy with work. You seem to have done everything right and if your MAP reading is 400-500, you're fine. The F4R is a lumpy motor but there's certainly a difference between 'timing out' lumpiness and 'normal' lumpiness. It's a truly awful job to do and thinking back on it, if I were to do it again, I'd drop the motor and replace the clutch also. A huge well done though and welcome to 'the club' !
Renault Clio RS 182
In terms of MAP sensors etc... I've swapped the MAP sensor a few times and it's not made any difference. You can pick them up second hand on eBay for about a tenner, so it's a cheap thing to try out and 'eliminate from your inquiries' if you're minded to do so. It's probably not worth it though.
From my own experience the injectors either work or they don't... and if they don't the ECU tends to switch them off and you'll know all about it. I wouldn't recommend replacing them 'to see if things improve' as it's just too expensive. An alternative may be to try a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank, it's not that expensive. I've bought a bottle of it but haven't yet tried it out, so if you wanna wait until I do so I can give you the verdict. I think my Clio is probably as good as I'm gonna get it right now though.
From my own experience the injectors either work or they don't... and if they don't the ECU tends to switch them off and you'll know all about it. I wouldn't recommend replacing them 'to see if things improve' as it's just too expensive. An alternative may be to try a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank, it's not that expensive. I've bought a bottle of it but haven't yet tried it out, so if you wanna wait until I do so I can give you the verdict. I think my Clio is probably as good as I'm gonna get it right now though.
My 172 has exactly the same idle problem, belts were changed 12 months ago by a "specialist" (was first thing I had done to it, cost me almost 2x the purchase price of the car). I have since changed plugs, injectors, leads, coil pack, crank sensor, speedo sensor, cleaned throttle body. Still idling rough and hesitating on acceleration.
It seems to me that if the timing is out, the horseshoe won't fit correctly when the crank is locked at TDC. (If it did fit, the timing wouldn't be out.) I'm guessing the process needs to be:
1) lock crank at TDC
2) loosen cam pulleys
3) align the cams and insert the horseshoe
4) tighten the pulleys
Thanks.
It seems to me that if the timing is out, the horseshoe won't fit correctly when the crank is locked at TDC. (If it did fit, the timing wouldn't be out.) I'm guessing the process needs to be:
1) lock crank at TDC
2) loosen cam pulleys
3) align the cams and insert the horseshoe
4) tighten the pulleys
Thanks.
Renault Clio RS 182
Ya it sounds like you've the same problem as the rest of us ! Your procedure's more or less right. Do check the position in the window on the bell housing though and make sure you use the Renault tool to lock the pulleys and NOTHING ELSE !
Given that so many people are suffering from this having had it done by specialists, I wonder is there something else awry. I did mine myself, so I've no-one to blame other than myself. I put mine down to the fact I was unable to get the pulleys fully locked because I was using an aftermarket pulley holder rather than the Renault OEM kit... and I do remember the belt 'buckling up' as I tightened the pulley. Could that the at the root of all of these ? I wonder are these 'specialists' using dodgy holders ? Or is that the belts stretch after a while and the timing [being so sensitive] just goes off ?
Given that so many people are suffering from this having had it done by specialists, I wonder is there something else awry. I did mine myself, so I've no-one to blame other than myself. I put mine down to the fact I was unable to get the pulleys fully locked because I was using an aftermarket pulley holder rather than the Renault OEM kit... and I do remember the belt 'buckling up' as I tightened the pulley. Could that the at the root of all of these ? I wonder are these 'specialists' using dodgy holders ? Or is that the belts stretch after a while and the timing [being so sensitive] just goes off ?
Funny thing is, apart from the hesitation off idle, the car is averaging about 7 litres per 100 km fuel consumption (ie, really good) and drivers very nicely. On track this car hits ~150 km/h at the end of the straight at Queensland Raceway, compared to ~160 in my other 172.
I suspect that most F4Rs are driving around with badly set timing.
One thing, in post #142 the horseshoe fits in the slots nicely but it hasn't been bolted into the head: the horseshoe has a bolt hole and the head has a thread to accept it. Maybe it needs to be bolted down tight too to prevent movement.
I'm doing my own belts next time, I don't think I could do a worse job TBH. I just changed the rhs drive shaft myself and am doing the front strut top mounts this week. Very satisfying and quite easy to work on.
I dunno what Clio RS are worth in the UK but here in Australia you can pick up a nice 172 with 140,000 km on the odo for about AUD$5,000 -- add a couple of thousand dollars more for 182s. To put this into perspective the going rate for a timing belt change at a non-dealer is about $1,200.
I suspect that most F4Rs are driving around with badly set timing.
One thing, in post #142 the horseshoe fits in the slots nicely but it hasn't been bolted into the head: the horseshoe has a bolt hole and the head has a thread to accept it. Maybe it needs to be bolted down tight too to prevent movement.
I'm doing my own belts next time, I don't think I could do a worse job TBH. I just changed the rhs drive shaft myself and am doing the front strut top mounts this week. Very satisfying and quite easy to work on.
I dunno what Clio RS are worth in the UK but here in Australia you can pick up a nice 172 with 140,000 km on the odo for about AUD$5,000 -- add a couple of thousand dollars more for 182s. To put this into perspective the going rate for a timing belt change at a non-dealer is about $1,200.
Renault Clio RS 182
@Vaughan In post 142 he's just slotting it in to show us that it went easy. You're right, it would be bolted in when you're doing the job.
In terms of car performance, mine drove absolutely fine with the timing out. It pulled fine through the rev range and topped out nicely too. All the perceptible problems were at idle.
In terms of car performance, mine drove absolutely fine with the timing out. It pulled fine through the rev range and topped out nicely too. All the perceptible problems were at idle.
