Just bled my brakes - advice needed

[grey_uk]

Just fitting new Willwood calipers to my 172 cup and after bleeding my brakes the brake pedal has some travel:

When engine off:
Pump the pedal to build the pressure and it goes rock hard - is this right, should you have to pump it to build the pressure or should it already be hard

When engine on:
There is about an inch of travel before there is any feel and it feels slightly softer than it was with the engine off then it gets to a point when it’s hard.

I’ve completely replaced the fluid and I’m almost 99.9% sure there is no air in the system.

Sorry for the stupid questions, any help appreciated.

 

[mini-valver]

Feels softer with the engine running because the servo is assisting it.

What procedure did you use to replace and bleed?

 

[grey_uk]

Feels softer with the engine running because the servo is assisting it.

What procedure did you use to replace and bleed?

Hi,

originally i got the wife to sit in the car a press the pedal while i opened and closed the nipple but because the pedal felt soft i got a ezibleed kit and did it that way although i had trouble getting and fluid from the rear left caliper. it was fine if you depressed the pedal tho.

this is the order i followed:

Rear right
front left
rear left
front right

i think thats the correct order.

Dont get me wrong when driving the brakes are brilliant, i was just expecting the pedal to feel alittle more firm.

 

[mini-valver]

You need to start furthest away from the mastercylinder.

So you start at the left rear then right rear, front left, front right.

 

[crazycup_racer]

with a soft hammer or the handle of a screw driver tap the side of the caliper when bleeding. This will free up any trapped air. They are a pain in the ass. Running the engine to give you assistance while bleeding has worked well before!

 

[grey_uk]

with a soft hammer or the handle of a screw driver tap the side of the caliper when bleeding. This will free up any trapped air. They are a pain in the ass. Running the engine to give you assistance while bleeding has worked well before!

Do you think there could still be air in it. Is what i'm feeling not right?

 

[grey_uk]

You need to start furthest away from the mastercylinder.

So you start at the left rear then right rear, front left, front right.

I got the order from Renault tech note. so many people have so many views.

I'll give it a go though as what you're saying makes sence.

Cheers

 

[Henry]

should the calipers you've got be a good match for the std master cylinder? (eg. it's not known to change the pedal feel, due to increased piston size, etc)

 

[grey_uk]

should the calipers you've got be a good match for the std master cylinder? (eg. it's not known to change the pedal feel, due to increased piston size, etc)

They should be ok, i got them from Jam-sport and other people that have done the same really rate them.

 

[Henry]

presumably still air in it; could there be a prob with the rear compensator?

assume the pads are bedded in

 

[grey_uk]

presumably still air in it; could there be a prob with the rear compensator?

assume the pads are bedded in

Pads are all bedded in, really strange as it works fine when depressing the pedal just not on the ezibleed.


Do you think it still has air because of the travel, is this not normal?

 

[Henry]

i'd check with someone who's got the same calipers and master cylinder - it's just that, if you up the surface area of the piston/s in the caliper, you'll alter the pedal feel - what you've got might be as they are

if they're supposed to give a solid pedal, right at the top, it must be trapped air. check it out in the morning; if the pedal feels any different, there'll be air in it somewhere

 

[Henry]

might help: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=273579&highlight=wilwood+master+cylinder

 

[LouisQ]

You dont always get the air out first time. Drive it for a few days and repeat