*I've already searched* What connections/wires do I put Maplin resistors into ?

[D1CKY]

After buying 3.3ohm and 3.9ohm resistors (3.6ohm ones were out of stock)from Maplin and following various guides on here.

My airbag light still won't go off.

The wires under the passenger seat used to turn the light off if you wiggled them.
But fails to do it now, and I thought resistors would be the fix.



Assistance in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

See pics below.

DRIVERS SIDE

PASSENGER SIDE

 

[scotty2hotty81]

Are you sure you haven't put a fault in the system? And it needs resetting with a diagnostic machine.

 

[Big Bob]

Have you tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery after your sure they are in place ?

 

[D1CKY]

Are you sure you haven't put a fault in the system? And it needs resetting with a diagnostic machine.

I was thinking that.
Does anyone know if its possible to do this ?

Have you tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery after your sure they are in place ?

The battery was disconnected since 4.30 this afternoon and only been reconnected before I posted this thread.
​

 

[Dan519]

resistance is way too high for airbag. 2-2.5k is the ideal range. if you put too high resistance in, the computer sees open circuit

 

[Jekyll]

I've got mine in the 2 middle ones on the black. Never had any issues.

 

[James28]

resistance is way too high for airbag. 2-2.5k is the ideal range. if you put too high resistance in, the computer sees open circuit

3.3 has been fine for me.

 

[D1CKY]

3.3 has been fine for me.

Thats why I bought 3.3 ones.
I've not heard of anyone using 2-2.5 ones.

I will double check them later.

Maybe I will have to get 2-2.5 ones :dapprove:

 

[D1CKY]

I've got mine in the 2 middle ones on the black. Never had any issues.

Did you put any resistors in the grey block ?

What size of resistors did you use ?

 

[Jekyll]

I had normal 182 seats and then bought trendlines so i needed to wipe out the lights. Off the top of my head i think they're 3.3 but if not they was 3.9. Ive had a look and the grey block is still connected to existing wires so ive only put the resistor in the black block above.

 

[Dan519]

don't trust the technician that worked in safety systems test and simulation for 4 years then. your call LOL

 

[sprintcup]

don't trust the technician that worked in safety systems test and simulation for 4 years then. your call LOL

This what Dan has said^^^^^^
But has he fitted 3.3ohm or 3.3k as he stated in the first post, as this is nearly a short circuit 3.3 ohm is nothing or have I read this wrong?

 

[Dan519]

well spotted Russ, 3.3ohm is almost nothing, 3.3kohm is quite a lot, but you might get away with it

 

[sprintcup]

I assume they use a voltage comparator similar to what we use in the Lift industry to monitor open and closed circuit within a range on Motors, ref thermistors are 1.8k- 2.6k
I'll be doing this after this season finishes Dan as they weigh quite a lot but I'm looking to get hold of 2 old connectors cut them off and hard wire the resitor in, don't fancy driving around with resistors just plugged in, sorry to hijack your thread.

Regards Russ.......

 

[MG cup]

don't trust the technician that worked in safety systems test and simulation for 4 years then. your call LOL

Just the man to explain why my Cup doesn't have the light on with buckets and aftermarket wheel? Light blanked?

 

[Sean6545]

Why some people want to completely deactivate their airbags/pre tensioners is beyond me. Madness.

 

[D1CKY]

Sorry i asked :S

What rating of resistors do i need then ?

Are the ones i have suitable ?

As one person says to use on rating and someone else says to use another rating.

 

[D1CKY]

Anyone any ideas how to turn these lights off ?
As they used to go out by wiggling the wires under the seat and now they don't.


The wires described in various guides/threads on here are different to the ones on my car.

Can anyone confirm the resistors I need ?

As there seems to be no definitive answer to the rating you need to fit

Until the 2-2.5 Ohm resisistors I have ordered arrive.

 

[Sean6545]

If it is the connectors under the seats that's causing the light to come on, all you need to do is remove the connector from the loom, and solder the wires Perminanly.

 

[Dan519]

If it is the connectors under the seats that's causing the light to come on, all you need to do is remove the connector from the loom, and solder the wires Perminanly.

no, that will leave the light on permanently. You need to replicate the presence of a pyrotechnic squib (airbag triggering device) so resisters are necessary

 

[Dan519]

Just the man to explain why my Cup doesn't have the light on with buckets and aftermarket wheel? Light blanked?

couldn't tell you. No side airbag in cup seats so that presents no issue. if the pre-tensioner is still there for the seatbelt then that will stop lights coming on. The wheel should definitely throw a light though

 

[Sean6545]

no, that will leave the light on permanently. You need to replicate the presence of a pyrotechnic squib (airbag triggering device) so resisters are necessary

I'm confused as to what the op is trying to do? Trying to fit buckets and fooling the ecu into thinking the bags are still there. Or trying to fix a general open circuit / connection problem?

 

[D1CKY]

I'm confused as to what the op is trying to do? Trying to fit buckets and fooling the ecu into thinking the bags are still there. Or trying to fix a general open circuit / connection problem?

My car has been of the road for a year or so and is now running again and ready/awaiting a MOT which I cannot get as I have airbag/SERV lights I can't turn off.


I have always had an issue regarding the Airbag/SERV lights being illuminated.
I used to be able to get over this airbag/SERV lights issue by wiggling the wires under the passenger seat and this would extinguish the light.

Now wiggling the wires doesn't do anything, the airbag/SERV lights stay illuminated regardless.

This explains my questions regarding resistors.

The 3.3 Ohm and 3.9 Ohm resistors I have purchased (as per guides/threads on here) seem to do f**k all and lights stay illuminated.

This is why I have started a thread, as after trying the above resistors to the black connectors coloured wires as per guides/threads on here does bugger all.
My grey connectors are now reconnected (after finding more airbag/SERV light threads), please ignore pics above regarding these.

I hope this clears up any confusion.

And I am welcome to any advice that people may have.

If only I had someone with CLIP nearby as the nearest is a local Renault dealer over 20 miles away, which driving there with no MOT and tax ain't the greatest of ideas.

 

[Sean6545]

So presuming the seat bags are still the fault causing the light to come on, (it could be something else now tbh and a code read is the only way to see what).

Unless there's a problem with either of the seat airbags, doing what I said to do will cure the fault. Nine times out of ten its the connector that's the issue.

 

[D1CKY]

So presuming the seat bags are still the fault causing the light to come on, (it could be something else now tbh and a code read is the only way to see what).

Unless there's a problem with either of the seat airbags, doing what I said to do will cure the fault. Nine times out of ten its the connector that's the issue.

I am beginning to think that too.

I guess I best get on eBay for a code reader.

The battery has been disconnected and the under seat connectors have been removed and the wires soldered together and yet again I still have a f**king airbag/SERV light illuminated
​
I thought I'd try it to rule them out as the light used to go out with a wiggle of the wires before, indicating a loose connection.

I guess I need someone local to Aberdeen with CLIP that can scan it for a few beers if the code reader brings up nothing.

That way I will know what fault is logged and keeping the light illuminated.

 

[Sean6545]

You don't necessarily need clip for a fault code read but you probably won't get anywhere with an eBay code reader.

 

[D1CKY]

You don't necessarily need clip for a fault code read but you probably won't get anywhere with an eBay code reader.

I thought it was worth a try.