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Home brew almost sheep boost bus build ect



  SQ5
Haha! Legend!

So that one bracket is all that's needed? Will that then fit with a cup alternator setup and retain PAS?
 
No affraid not, I am in the process of making the other parts as seen in the pics, this plate is mainly for the blokes that have the charger already and need a stronger plate, but will hopefully get a complete package built

60ECD48B-4A56-400B-BA0F-39F77D5710C5_zpswbsfhdry.jpg


6A89DF23-5501-4A67-B192-5FD13B64D15D_zps4zkeckoi.jpg


A42369D2-EFDF-43E1-9FA7-19DDCF7D14C3_zpstma7ulau.jpg
 
So had a little bit of a play around with my set of Omex brackets this week and came to a decision, i am going to ditch off the k tec style brackets and go with the Omex ones.
Due to them having a tendency to fracture, i have now made them from mild steel so they will be far stronger although a bit heavier

so got them back today and started a trial fit

D8E93899-2430-486E-B2C8-C91973253387_zpspils3cnt.jpg


68A8A2DF-73A3-43EF-8901-2A205C09E341_zpsbqzxznar.jpg


very easy to fit, and does away with the aux belt tensioner pulley and all associated brackets, and the option is there to easily remove the power steering pump too if you have epas

here is a trial kit i made today for a fellow cs member

5D3A5473-0D33-4D99-923F-22381763A945_zpsscksghzt.jpg


as you can see he has no power steering hole cut, so drill and tap a hole, add a idler pulley and use a slightly shorter belt = p/s pump gone
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
So had a little bit of a play around with my set of Omex brackets this week and came to a decision, i am going to ditch off the k tec style brackets and go with the Omex ones.
Due to them having a tendency to fracture, i have now made them from mild steel so they will be far stronger although a bit heavier

so got them back today and started a trial fit

D8E93899-2430-486E-B2C8-C91973253387_zpspils3cnt.jpg


68A8A2DF-73A3-43EF-8901-2A205C09E341_zpsbqzxznar.jpg


very easy to fit, and does away with the aux belt tensioner pulley and all associated brackets, and the option is there to easily remove the power steering pump too if you have epas

here is a trial kit i made today for a fellow cs member

5D3A5473-0D33-4D99-923F-22381763A945_zpsscksghzt.jpg


as you can see he has no power steering hole cut, so drill and tap a hole, add a idler pulley and use a slightly shorter belt = p/s pump gone
Now that I like!! How much for the brackets out of interest?
 
having a bit of a clio club weekender this weekend
6B390A87-B483-4D86-BC51-B2D428C08D91_zpsfda5zcg1.jpg


managed to get the engine back together, all cam belt covers done up and the charger mount bolted on

645957D5-138B-4EFA-A2A7-24C653773258_zpsdygagdfq.jpg


plan was to get it placed in the bay this weekend but when checking over stuff i noticed i have no exhaust studs at all, how i missed that i dont know
so plans have hit a dead end, i now need 9 exhaust studs @ about £11 each iirc

anyone have some sitting about on a dead engine?
 
so had another rubbish day today, one of those day's where nothing went right
started on my break lines, wanted to give them a bit of heat protection from the manifold, whilst last in afghan i rob..emm acquired some heat sheathing from a dead vehicle
fairly good stuff, will be adding a zircoflex sheet over the top of this too to protect the master cylinder and fluid reservoir

C330D9AF-404D-463D-A8B2-1A7C361E00BB_zpsf0dkj3t5.jpg


i then attempted to remove my omex temp sensor from the coolant block, snapped it straight out now have a gaping hole in the side of it
time to get the welder out
3770D8DB-151B-4207-B8EB-93BAAAE0666B_zps4g6wafg5.jpg


so i moved on to re-do my door cards "motorsport" velcro was no longer cutting it, done all the fronts so started on rears and popped my head in to have a check of everything

217461D2-B2EE-410B-A8E7-91AFD20D09D0_zps4uqjtn7z.jpg


my car has developed the PH-RUST problem, absolute ball ache of an area to get to, so spent all day rubbing it down, prepping and painting it with Hammerite rust beater
932FC864-46D5-42C1-A886-08267F8C1010_zpsd023bvom.jpg


If you have a ph 1 go and check it out as its getting a common problem now and its better to tackle it now rather than when its too late
so annoyed i wrapped on it and decided to wash it for the first time this year and ditch it in the car park.
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
so had another rubbish day today, one of those day's where nothing went right
started on my break lines, wanted to give them a bit of heat protection from the manifold, whilst last in afghan i rob..emm acquired some heat sheathing from a dead vehicle
fairly good stuff, will be adding a zircoflex sheet over the top of this too to protect the master cylinder and fluid reservoir

C330D9AF-404D-463D-A8B2-1A7C361E00BB_zpsf0dkj3t5.jpg


i then attempted to remove my omex temp sensor from the coolant block, snapped it straight out now have a gaping hole in the side of it
time to get the welder out
3770D8DB-151B-4207-B8EB-93BAAAE0666B_zps4g6wafg5.jpg


so i moved on to re-do my door cards "motorsport" velcro was no longer cutting it, done all the fronts so started on rears and popped my head in to have a check of everything

217461D2-B2EE-410B-A8E7-91AFD20D09D0_zps4uqjtn7z.jpg


my car has developed the PH-RUST problem, absolute ball ache of an area to get to, so spent all day rubbing it down, prepping and painting it with Hammerite rust beater
932FC864-46D5-42C1-A886-08267F8C1010_zpsd023bvom.jpg


If you have a ph 1 go and check it out as its getting a common problem now and its better to tackle it now rather than when its too late
so annoyed i wrapped on it and decided to wash it for the first time this year and ditch it in the car park

179FB35D-EAEE-4F36-87DB-F9BB89D5C8D5_zpseqdjucox.jpg
Unproductive days are the choice of winners mate. I had one on Friday and Saturday so I feel your pain.
Bit of a t**t about finding that rust as well!
 
So had a fairly productive week last week, managed to get all my exhaust studs In and tightened

Then fitted my charger to find out it was 120 degrees of rotation out

826ED748-E1B8-4E4C-A90A-6873202DDAB3_zpsatoilx3r.jpg


Looks ok but is actually upside down
View from top
4986BFF3-4024-4F6C-A66B-6CB8672A314B_zpsmrsvjle1.jpg


So after some in depth reading I found the housing was user adjustable with lots of warnings and cautions in the tech docs I dived straight in, marked it up and adjusted
29673335-6722-49B5-A61D-47EC45B567AA_zpswebhbitc.jpg


E9342645-C92C-4F9E-8623-311C6DF7E7FF_zpst159szke.jpg


The torque settings were a nightmare to find anywhere, found them after about 40mins it's 9nm for the 2 bolts if your looking

2B5F766B-3AAD-4061-89BF-86A5FA91DBD7_zpsl6lfbqzf.jpg


Looks much better

685CA8FF-0CDC-491C-917A-1F243EE9FDE6_zpsftli4xjv.jpg


Just need to machine a few of the pulleys and it's good to go
 
  SQ5
68598ec71dc8859705b2586b6e8fbd67.jpg


9dd0341cb71dbd33d88209c81a4608b7.jpg


I don't know if any of those help at all?!

My inter cooler was right at the supercharger so just had a small 90 bend straight onto it.
 

Joah

ClioSport Club Member
looking good. I read on the rotex site that the oil canister should be below the supercharger, but this is pretty impossible with the location on the clio, did it work ok with it as in the picture above @DannyR ?
 
Looking good mate, you would still be better off with an auto tensioner, but I like the look of the brackets, they look nice and sturdy.

All the info you need is available on the rotrex website. If you google rotrex manual it's literally the first link that comes up.

They give you lots of warnings about rotating the snail but in reality if you are careful it's a piece of cake.

The oil cooler and canister should indeed be below the the charger to stop the oil draining back, but this is not so important on the C30 range as they have better seals to stop the oil leaking out.
 
  SQ5
looking good. I read on the rotex site that the oil canister should be below the supercharger, but this is pretty impossible with the location on the clio, did it work ok with it as in the picture above @DannyR ?

I've had several and all were fine, as you say it's impossible but other cars run with it higher up
 
I've had several and all were fine, as you say it's impossible but other cars run with it higher up


Difficult but not impossible, my canister is mounted level with the inlet of the charger and still easily accessible to check the oil level.
 
Do you have a Pic of where yours is located James ?
I was going to look at making a bracket to replace the carbon canister and have it down level with inlet

Don't think I have taken any pics of the location of the canister. I made a little aluminium bracket for the canister and filter, and it is located just in front on the lower gearbox mount. It is level with the inlet of the charger but you can still easily reach in and check the oil level.

My engine is out and on the bench at the moment waiting for me to get my arse in gear and rebuild it. So I will get a pic for you.
 
so working this weekend so need to stay on camp
so this weekend the plan is to get it in

so pushed it on the ramps on my own good job i had my weetabix this morning

E113AE49-E937-47B0-8D47-B01B8ECB6B76_zpsjclykmss.jpg


got the bits all lined up ready to go
0AB20547-0157-457D-9870-2168BF1A92A0_zpsipcenkpt.jpg

gave the flywheel a scrub to get all surface rust off and used brake cleaner to clean it all

love a bit of art
1A489328-9923-4469-A9C8-7B4726815120_zpsaypwzulw.jpg


then bolted it all up using my alignment tool

CF09E403-934D-477F-BAA7-DA9332C79648_zpsgqzsgl9h.jpg


gearbox on 1st time was rather happy with myself tbh
64962FB6-F202-415F-A7AD-48E32A0A2AA6_zpsqsa1kbrv.jpg


hopefully get it in fairly easy this weekend
 


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