Changing disks and pads.

[MDP91]

Finally managed to get some new brembo disks and pads all round (inc bearings) and I finally have the time to fit them on Sunday possibly. I have done pads before but never disks, and never rear brakes. Are they hard to do yourself, I am aware of what needs doing but not having ever done disks before I want to ensure I do it correctly and safely. What do I need to watch out for etc?? I'm debating weather to have a crack at it or just wait and get someone like James Stone to fit them for me?

Cheers,
Mark

 

[Terry172]

There is a couple of guides in the Guides area mate.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?408371-Fitting-Front-Rear-Discs-Pads-braided-lines-and-handbrake-adjustment-on-182&highlight=Brake

Another one in there is the fubarnet one at the top as a sticky

 

[MDP91]

Nice one thanks mate. Only thing that is bothering me is the torque settings??

 

[Owen92]

To just change the discs and pads you don't have to disconnect the brake fluid hoses from the caliper. Just support the caliper so it isn't hanging on the brake hose or likely to fall. Also remover the brake fluid reservoir cap before pushing the pistons back.
It's also good practice to fit new hub nuts (didn't read all the way to see if the guide mentions that)

 

[MDP91]

Yeah cheers mate, I know most of that from when I have done pads before, am I going to need a torque wrench for the disks??

 

[micheal leck]

G 172 is the one to c, gd stuff to

Lecky

 

[Cupman29]

Open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back as not doing this can damage the abs system or master cylinder seals.

 

[MDP91]

G 172 is the one to c, gd stuff to

Lecky

In regards to what? I have already got my brakes from him

 

[MDP91]

Open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back as not doing this can damage the abs system or master cylinder seals.

Thank you.

 

[micheal leck]

My bad ha ha

Lecky

 

[DrR]

Open the bleed nipple when pushing the piston back as not doing this can damage the abs system or master cylinder seals.

I've never heard anyone do that????

 

[Jay.S]

I've never heard anyone do that????

No people usually open the brake reservoir under the bonnet and then wind the piston in. I used this method worked fine.

 

[DrR]

No people usually open the brake reservoir under the bonnet and then wind the piston in. I used this method worked fine.

Same, unduing the nipple seams silly idea to me.

 

[Jay.S]

I suppose it would do the same thing but it seems a lot more hassle and messier than the other method.

Infact thinking on don't do that as when it comes to bleed the brakes its done in a certain sequence.

 

[Owen92]

No need to crack off the bleed nipple, never seen anyone do that for replacing discs and pads. Doing that just causes more work as you will have to bleed the brakes.

 

[Cupman29]

I've never heard anyone do that????

No people usually open the brake reservoir under the bonnet and then wind the piston in. I used this method worked fine.

Same, unduing the nipple seams silly idea to me.

I suppose it would do the same thing but it seems a lot more hassle and messier than the other method.

Infact thinking on don't do that as when it comes to bleed the brakes its done in a certain sequence.

No need to crack off the bleed nipple, never seen anyone do that for replacing discs and pads. Doing that just causes more work as you will have to bleed the brakes.

According to Mr Haynes manual it is the way to do it for a few reasons.

1) The seals in the abs system and master cylinder can be damaged.
2) The fluid behind the piston will have the most sh*t from the caliper that you don't want being pushed back through the system.
3) The fluid in the caliper will have been exposed to more heat and so will have deteriorated more than the rest in the system.

It's the way I've always done it and no need to bleed the brakes as long as you close the nipple immediately after
pushing the piston back. Then just top up the reservoir with fresh fluid. Each to their own!

 

[Owen92]

According to Mr Haynes manual it is the way to do it for a few reasons.

1) The seals in the abs system and master cylinder can be damaged.
2) The fluid behind the piston will have the most sh*t from the caliper that you don't want being pushed back through the system.
3) The fluid in the caliper will have been exposed to more heat and so will have deteriorated more than the rest in the system.

It's the way I've always done it and no need to bleed the brakes as long as you close the nipple immediately after
pushing the piston back. Then just top up the reservoir with fresh fluid. Each to their own!

But the fluid will only be pushed back, it won't be mixed in with the 'fresh' brake fluid further up the system.

 

[Cupman29]

But the fluid will only be pushed back, it won't be mixed in with the 'fresh' brake fluid further up the system.

The volume of fluid behind the piston when fully extended goes a long way in a brake line. Particularly the front as they are larger pistons and shooter pipes.

 

[Terry172]

Nice one thanks mate. Only thing that is bothering me is the torque settings??

Just changed pads and discs all round. Also flushed and replaced the fluid with ATE Blue which you can get from Eurocarparts for £14 per litre and I only needed one. The great thing with it being blue is you can see when the old fluid has been replaced.

The only torque setting is the rear hub nut, which is written in the guide as being 172Nm +/- 10%, which can be re-used if the thread is not damaged and just use some lock tight. All other bolts and screws can be done by feel i.e. do them up and give another 1/4 turn. Wheel bolts are 100 to 110Nm.

 

[Cupman29]

40nm for the caliper to carrier and 80nm for carrier to hub for the fronts.

 

[Gavin J]

Oh and make sure you refit the spacer behind the rear discs.....