ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Camera settings.
- Thread starter Waitey
- Start date
Put the camera on Shutter Priority (S on Nikons I think...) and take a reading to see what aperture it needs (do this outside the car). Now put the camera on M and dial in those settings. Putting it on M means that the shutter speed and aperture won't change. Now mount the camera and take some test shots checking that the histogram is ok.
You may also be seeing some reflection off the windscreen. In that case you need a polarising filter. This reduces the light the sensor sees so make sure you attach it before you take the readings. Also put the camera onto manual focus and make sure the camera is focused on, say, the end of the bonnet. This will stop the camera hunting for a focus point and just take the picture. You might also want a remote camera release cord so you can fire the camera as you drive.
I've done this at night with a tripod in the passenger footwell and my camera set to 1 second. I used the flash to light the inside of the car and a remote release fire it. This meant I got some cool light streaks outside the car with the inside of the car also lit. I can post some pictures when I get home if anyone is interested...
You may also be seeing some reflection off the windscreen. In that case you need a polarising filter. This reduces the light the sensor sees so make sure you attach it before you take the readings. Also put the camera onto manual focus and make sure the camera is focused on, say, the end of the bonnet. This will stop the camera hunting for a focus point and just take the picture. You might also want a remote camera release cord so you can fire the camera as you drive.
I've done this at night with a tripod in the passenger footwell and my camera set to 1 second. I used the flash to light the inside of the car and a remote release fire it. This meant I got some cool light streaks outside the car with the inside of the car also lit. I can post some pictures when I get home if anyone is interested...
Last edited:
How fast were you going? If you set a slow enough shutter speed you could be doing 10mph and it would seem like a lot faster! Key is to play around and see which shutter speed and road speed give the best feeling while eliminating any chance of camera shake. It's all a bit trail and error at first. Remember though to note down which settings DO work then you can use them again!
I'll post some of my ones tonight.
I'll post some of my ones tonight.
Drive faster and speed up the shutter, say half a second, lots of movement and less camera vibration...
But your just going to end up with more shake in the car?!
Now its dark I'd try it again using the flash but for 8 seconds
Pink & Blue 182, JDM DC2
LOL well said that man. f**king freezing. lol.
RB 182 Cup
Aah....a man who knows what he's talkin about.
Rear curtain sync.....that's what its called.
Cracking technique, again all down to trial and error though for that ELUSIVE shot.
Best of luck lads.
That's the one, couldn't think of the proper name.
Just incase you're unsure waitey, on the D50 hold down the flash button and rotate the dial until you have a flash symbol with "REAR" written under it.
Oh and go with manual focus, at f22 or somewhere around there it pretty much won't matter as long as it's near the infinity end of the focus ring.
...and, get the Nikon ml-l3 remote control if you haven't already, only £15 but so so useful.
Good choice! I used mine for fireworks last week, it would have been almost impossible without it.
Similar threads
