Stefan.
ClioSport Club Member
Love the attention of detail and hands on with it all.
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Bumblebee 2 featuring LY R26
- Thread starter Brigsy
- Start date
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate. Its finally coming together and the list is getting shorter.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Sunday update.
Not had much joy sourcing a used handbrake guide tube. New oem NLA and its 50/50 chance a used one will be useable.
As this is a guide tube it has no tension on it so just guides the cable via rear footwell into the centre console. Its quite a basic tube so had a go at fabricating something up myself.
1m of 12mm od alloy tube from B&Q. Expanded the end - needed a proper pipe expander really but got it with a socket knocked in.
Mocked up using knackered oem
Tweaked for smoother curves
Fitted, about half hours work. Works spot on, ill rock this until i find oem.
Handbrake works well and no binding anymore with new cable.
Dash had a mark on it where an old phone holder was fitted, Le Shark now covers it complete with squeezy eyes if you need to squeeze to destress 🤣
Previous owner said the gearcable popped off a few times and it had a bracket to hold it made at a local specialist, had a look today as thinking about a short shift. Found this crock of shite that looks to be welded on. New cable is only £50 ish why not fix it properly!?
This reminds me why i do all the repairs to my own cars.
Thanks for reading!!
Not had much joy sourcing a used handbrake guide tube. New oem NLA and its 50/50 chance a used one will be useable.
As this is a guide tube it has no tension on it so just guides the cable via rear footwell into the centre console. Its quite a basic tube so had a go at fabricating something up myself.
1m of 12mm od alloy tube from B&Q. Expanded the end - needed a proper pipe expander really but got it with a socket knocked in.
Mocked up using knackered oem
Tweaked for smoother curves
Fitted, about half hours work. Works spot on, ill rock this until i find oem.
Handbrake works well and no binding anymore with new cable.
Dash had a mark on it where an old phone holder was fitted, Le Shark now covers it complete with squeezy eyes if you need to squeeze to destress 🤣
Previous owner said the gearcable popped off a few times and it had a bracket to hold it made at a local specialist, had a look today as thinking about a short shift. Found this crock of shite that looks to be welded on. New cable is only £50 ish why not fix it properly!?
This reminds me why i do all the repairs to my own cars.
Thanks for reading!!
01RS,03 EP3,99 Evo 6
Great work as always😁 
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Thanks all. Took it out for a test run and all is good regarding handbrake.
Theres a slight knocking on the passenger side front, i reckon its the spherical bearing in the compbrake top mount or the anti rotation link as i fitted a good used pair i had i stock which were tight, but maybe not tight enough.
Ive ordered a pair of new delphi anti rotation links and have emailed compbrake regarding top mount, will get to the bottom of it.
Drives decent though overall like a good meg should.
Theres a slight knocking on the passenger side front, i reckon its the spherical bearing in the compbrake top mount or the anti rotation link as i fitted a good used pair i had i stock which were tight, but maybe not tight enough.
Ive ordered a pair of new delphi anti rotation links and have emailed compbrake regarding top mount, will get to the bottom of it.
Drives decent though overall like a good meg should.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Fitted a set of my compomotive mo6 with new michelin ps5 mid week.
Loving the look over stock wheels.
Planned on taxing it on the 1st and taking it for a ride out. As i cant leave nothing alone i investigated the strut top knock on Sat. There is a small spacer which is missing and the spherical bearing is worn. The original top mounts are shot so its resumed usual position for now.
Cracked on with a few small jobs on Sunday morning. Rubber hanger was shot on the rear and barely hanging in there so replaced for powerflex poly hanger.
Xenon level sensor bars were missing front and rear, common issue on meg2. I measured up the ones fitted on the blue meg and made some up with m6 balljoints off ebay for bonnet struts.
Front
Rear.
The xenon ecu is smashed/knackered. Ive sourced one off a breaker so should have them working correctly soon. Suprised they work at all currently but are working with fixed level.
Next job was to make up vac pipe and map sensor brackets. I have a few offcuts of alloy about so copied the ones fitted to the blue meg..took about 20 mins to make the pair.
Fitted.
It will be back together this weekend and back down for geo again if all goes well.
Thanks for reading!!
Fitted a set of my compomotive mo6 with new michelin ps5 mid week.
Loving the look over stock wheels.
Planned on taxing it on the 1st and taking it for a ride out. As i cant leave nothing alone i investigated the strut top knock on Sat. There is a small spacer which is missing and the spherical bearing is worn. The original top mounts are shot so its resumed usual position for now.
Cracked on with a few small jobs on Sunday morning. Rubber hanger was shot on the rear and barely hanging in there so replaced for powerflex poly hanger.
Xenon level sensor bars were missing front and rear, common issue on meg2. I measured up the ones fitted on the blue meg and made some up with m6 balljoints off ebay for bonnet struts.
Front
Rear.
The xenon ecu is smashed/knackered. Ive sourced one off a breaker so should have them working correctly soon. Suprised they work at all currently but are working with fixed level.
Next job was to make up vac pipe and map sensor brackets. I have a few offcuts of alloy about so copied the ones fitted to the blue meg..took about 20 mins to make the pair.
Fitted.
It will be back together this weekend and back down for geo again if all goes well.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Going back to post above i wasnt happy with the compbrake top mounts as the small spacers were missing. Looked at all options and oem are pretty expensive and no camber adjustment. To fix current ones spacers and bearings around £100 from compbrake. As i love destroying my bank balance i looked at the PMS meg2 top mounts and went that route.
Ordered and arrived next day. Sexy
The engineering is superb. One of the best aftermarket top mounts ive ever seen. Leagues ahead of compbrake, bc, and the ast ones i have on the kangoo.
Main reason i went for these is they do not raise the rideheight as designed not to.
PMS vs oem.
Compbrake in comparison add 10-15mm to rideheight which is sub standard on oem shocks/lowered springs..ok with coilovers maybe.
As with all pms products it fits exactly how it should.
Set negative camber as much as available on standard diameter springs as they hit the turret if you go for more. Its -2deg so thats fine for what i need.
Fitted and back on its wheels. Taxed and on the road.
Straight down for geo and dialled in 10 mins of toe overall. Camber -2 deg as above and castor is around 5.4. Thrust angle is now zero.
Looks much better with everything new!
Now drives excellent. No knocks or nothing, as straight as a die. Turn in is awesome, and its absolutely planted on the back roads like a good r26 should be!
Also improved the overall cabin rattles and creaks as ive adjusted the boot latch to pull boot closed tighter. The boot used to creak when going over bumps etc, and now no noise with it adjusted. Done the same to the blue meg years ago and its like night and day.
Took it out for some datalogging on the evening. Started raining so didnt go too mad.
Noted coolant temps when cruising are slightly higher than expected between 90-92deg. In comparison megs are usually in the 80s unless your driving quick.
The bumper under tray is missing so airflow is not forced through the rad pack so id say thats the issue. Done the same on the trophy and refitted it and dropped a few degrees off temps. Ill bang a new thermostat in just incase.
Washed the bird s**t off it on Sunday and it rained as expected.
Progress has been a little slower than expected but were back road legal and only a few jobs left. Get the snagging finished and get a trackday done soon hopefully!
Thanks for reading.
Going back to post above i wasnt happy with the compbrake top mounts as the small spacers were missing. Looked at all options and oem are pretty expensive and no camber adjustment. To fix current ones spacers and bearings around £100 from compbrake. As i love destroying my bank balance i looked at the PMS meg2 top mounts and went that route.
Ordered and arrived next day. Sexy
The engineering is superb. One of the best aftermarket top mounts ive ever seen. Leagues ahead of compbrake, bc, and the ast ones i have on the kangoo.
Main reason i went for these is they do not raise the rideheight as designed not to.
PMS vs oem.
Compbrake in comparison add 10-15mm to rideheight which is sub standard on oem shocks/lowered springs..ok with coilovers maybe.
As with all pms products it fits exactly how it should.
Set negative camber as much as available on standard diameter springs as they hit the turret if you go for more. Its -2deg so thats fine for what i need.
Fitted and back on its wheels. Taxed and on the road.
Straight down for geo and dialled in 10 mins of toe overall. Camber -2 deg as above and castor is around 5.4. Thrust angle is now zero.
Looks much better with everything new!
Now drives excellent. No knocks or nothing, as straight as a die. Turn in is awesome, and its absolutely planted on the back roads like a good r26 should be!
Also improved the overall cabin rattles and creaks as ive adjusted the boot latch to pull boot closed tighter. The boot used to creak when going over bumps etc, and now no noise with it adjusted. Done the same to the blue meg years ago and its like night and day.
Took it out for some datalogging on the evening. Started raining so didnt go too mad.
The bumper under tray is missing so airflow is not forced through the rad pack so id say thats the issue. Done the same on the trophy and refitted it and dropped a few degrees off temps. Ill bang a new thermostat in just incase.
Washed the bird s**t off it on Sunday and it rained as expected.
Progress has been a little slower than expected but were back road legal and only a few jobs left. Get the snagging finished and get a trackday done soon hopefully!
Thanks for reading.
01RS,03 EP3,99 Evo 6
Those wheels really suit the car!!!
Darren S
ClioSport Club Member
A great thread this - just read it through from the start.
Have to complement your attention to detail and commitment to it.
When is it going to be up for sale?
Have to complement your attention to detail and commitment to it.
When is it going to be up for sale?
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate! I love the look of the compomotives on it.Those wheels really suit the car!!!
Cheers mate! I did underestimate the work required to this initially but its getting there now. I thought i could turn it around in a weekend or so but definitely not the case.A great thread this - just read it through from the start.
Have to complement your attention to detail and commitment to it.
When is it going to be up for sale?
As for selling it, i might let it go in the new year. I had a serious think the other day and i have way too many toys sat about doing nothing. Ill use it as intended for a trackday or two and go from there.
Cheers mate! Next owner can clean that up, ive coated it in anti corrosion s**t so be coated in road muck soonCan't believe you didn't clean that strut before refitting all the stuff
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
No more projects next one is going to be bmw so i can sit on my arse and do nothing in my spare time
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Ive been away with work this week and the mrs has been using the meg daily. Said it drives awesome and its not broken down so id say its a job well done!
Drivers side window has packed in however, well it is a fcuking renault aint it so something had spoil it
Used it lastnight.
Noted headlamps are pretty crap even though xenon and the lenses have been polished.
The lighting ecu was wrecked so the self levelling does not work on the xenons. Id sniped one off a breaker to fit. Bumper off in 2 mins, headlamp out and fitted
Headlamps still not doing the level setting when turned on. Hooked up clip and ecu still not recognised.
Dug out the workshop manual for diagnostics.
Connectors were good. Time to check fuses and its the upc one. Right piss on taking battery out etc.
The 7.5amp fuse was indeed popped. Not suprised considering the state of the xenon ecu. I actually think its dragged on the floor at some point.
Put it all back together. Does it work? Does it fcuk so that was pretty fruitless.
The headlamps work ok and ive adjusted the level on the drivers one manually as it was pointing at the floor. Had same issue on blue one years ago when lowered had to wind lamp adjustment manually to max. The xenons work right on the blue one however iam suspicious of the level sensors on that as both bars popped off years ago and made no difference to the lights!!
The headlamps still work ok so i might revisit one day when really bored and start pinning the wiring. Until then it can wait!!
Thanks for reading!!
Ive been away with work this week and the mrs has been using the meg daily. Said it drives awesome and its not broken down so id say its a job well done!
Drivers side window has packed in however, well it is a fcuking renault aint it so something had spoil it
Used it lastnight.
Noted headlamps are pretty crap even though xenon and the lenses have been polished.
The lighting ecu was wrecked so the self levelling does not work on the xenons. Id sniped one off a breaker to fit. Bumper off in 2 mins, headlamp out and fitted
Headlamps still not doing the level setting when turned on. Hooked up clip and ecu still not recognised.
Dug out the workshop manual for diagnostics.
Connectors were good. Time to check fuses and its the upc one. Right piss on taking battery out etc.
The 7.5amp fuse was indeed popped. Not suprised considering the state of the xenon ecu. I actually think its dragged on the floor at some point.
Put it all back together. Does it work? Does it fcuk
so that was pretty fruitless.The headlamps work ok and ive adjusted the level on the drivers one manually as it was pointing at the floor. Had same issue on blue one years ago when lowered had to wind lamp adjustment manually to max. The xenons work right on the blue one however iam suspicious of the level sensors on that as both bars popped off years ago and made no difference to the lights!!
The headlamps still work ok so i might revisit one day when really bored and start pinning the wiring. Until then it can wait!!
Thanks for reading!!
Yeah that won't last will it 🤣.No more projects next one is going to be bmw so i can sit on my arse and do nothing in my spare time
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
His and Hers together. Blue one had a quick clean before its mot last Tuesday.
Check out the camber on pms top mounts on the yellow meg vs stock top mounts on the blue meg.
Give the carpet a wet vac and fitted some nice oem r26 mats that ive had in stock from breaking the red r26 years ago. Give the steering wheel a quick rub over with some ipa that removed years of grot and took it back to a matt finish. The red band stitching is knacked, looped some electricians tape round it to take your eye off it.
Changed sidelights for osram led ones to replace the piss yellow standard ones.
Been having a bit of fun in it on the commute too.
His and Hers together. Blue one had a quick clean before its mot last Tuesday.
Check out the camber on pms top mounts on the yellow meg vs stock top mounts on the blue meg.
Give the carpet a wet vac and fitted some nice oem r26 mats that ive had in stock from breaking the red r26 years ago. Give the steering wheel a quick rub over with some ipa that removed years of grot and took it back to a matt finish. The red band stitching is knacked, looped some electricians tape round it to take your eye off it.
Changed sidelights for osram led ones to replace the piss yellow standard ones.
Been having a bit of fun in it on the commute too.
The Chubby Pirate
ClioSport Club Member
Golf R
Great thread, wish i was as handy as you are with spanners👌🏽
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers all appreciate the feedback.
A few jobs to do and hopefully get a trackday in soon!
The sidelights are these ones @SteveC_1879
Seem ok..agreed absolute minefield when looking for a set.
A few jobs to do and hopefully get a trackday in soon!
The sidelights are these ones @SteveC_1879
Seem ok..agreed absolute minefield when looking for a set.
Yarp
ClioSport Club Member
Clio 182
Fantastic cheers! I’d given up tbh 😂.
Halfords have them for £8.64 on trade so might just nip in there and grab them. At least that way I can take them back if they pack up
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Whipped bumper off in dinner hour today to sort light issue out, first day its not been raining and actually had time. Annoyingly passenger dipped headlamp which had totally failed was working again which made diagnostics tricky.
Fitted new 6000k D1S bulbs and a new ballast to passenger headlamp, quick test and working.
Had a look at the lighting ecu wiring whilst in the area, i fitted the 2nd hand ecu a while ago but had no comms with it on clip and not working so left it. Peeled loom tape back a little and found the issue straight away, snapped canbus wire.
Wiring was pretty corroded so chopped it back a bit and spliced a new bit in.
Dual wall heatshrink to finish.
Headlamps on and noted motors moving with ign on.
Hooked up clip and no multiplex issues anymore. Lighting ecu available for diagnostics.
Faults stored as expected so had a look in, old ones from previous car it was fitted to.
Cleared the old variable pas fault that was stored and first time its had a clean slate.
After clearing the old stored but not active multiplex fault on the pas ecu the cruise/speed limiter works again. Not 100% sure that this fixed it or coincidence, had tried a spare switch in previously but no joy so guess something had happened.
Much brighter now. Id say thats a win.
Thanks for reading all!
Whipped bumper off in dinner hour today to sort light issue out, first day its not been raining and actually had time. Annoyingly passenger dipped headlamp which had totally failed was working again which made diagnostics tricky.
Fitted new 6000k D1S bulbs and a new ballast to passenger headlamp, quick test and working.
Had a look at the lighting ecu wiring whilst in the area, i fitted the 2nd hand ecu a while ago but had no comms with it on clip and not working so left it. Peeled loom tape back a little and found the issue straight away, snapped canbus wire.
Wiring was pretty corroded so chopped it back a bit and spliced a new bit in.
Headlamps on and noted motors moving with ign on.
Hooked up clip and no multiplex issues anymore. Lighting ecu available for diagnostics.
Faults stored as expected so had a look in, old ones from previous car it was fitted to.
Cleared the old variable pas fault that was stored and first time its had a clean slate.
After clearing the old stored but not active multiplex fault on the pas ecu the cruise/speed limiter works again. Not 100% sure that this fixed it or coincidence, had tried a spare switch in previously but no joy so guess something had happened.
Much brighter now. Id say thats a win.
Thanks for reading all!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Macro run today.
Stripped out rear is perfect for the chicken, crisps and sweets run
Still getting the odd whiff of oil looks to be leaking slightly on the turbo oil return gasket or top part of the oil return where it had the chemi metal bodge. Had it on my mates lift looking earlier and cant see hardly anything just a slight bit of oil on the joint. Its not even leaving a drip of oil. Ill prob whip turbo off to inspect as will be easiest option.
Borescoped the turbine wheel through lambda hole and dry as a bone. Slight damage to the turbine wheel possibly this was on the engine that blew up previously. Boosts ok to be fair.
ill sort it soon.
Stripped out rear is perfect for the chicken, crisps and sweets run
Still getting the odd whiff of oil looks to be leaking slightly on the turbo oil return gasket or top part of the oil return where it had the chemi metal bodge. Had it on my mates lift looking earlier and cant see hardly anything just a slight bit of oil on the joint. Its not even leaving a drip of oil. Ill prob whip turbo off to inspect as will be easiest option.
Borescoped the turbine wheel through lambda hole and dry as a bone. Slight damage to the turbine wheel possibly this was on the engine that blew up previously. Boosts ok to be fair.
ill sort it soon.
Last edited:
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Done a bit more today.
Bumper undertray was missing which was not helping with airflow to the rad pack. Expensive as fcuk to buy new for a flat bit of plastic and unobtanium 2nd hand unless buying a full bumper.
I bought a povo spec megane bumper undertray which was no where near when offered up so that was a waste of time. I have a couple of ph1 225 front bumpers in the lockup and thought it was worth a look to see if ph1 undertray could be modified to fit.
Turns out, ph2 uses the exact same undertray and it fits perfectly even though the bumper design is slightly different between ph1 and ph2.
Small bit of original left in place
Offered up against ph1, identical. Test fit and goes straight on.
Originally rivited on, used rivnuts instead as have them in stock
Fitted. Centre bolt on front subframe was snapped so had to drill it out and tap it.
Daft hour to do that so moved onto next job, fuel pump. Bought a bosch pump from autodoc, same one i use in the blue meg at 300hp so adequate for this. Easy job as no back seats in. Sender was covered in s**t and looked like original and took half a tin of brake cleaner to get the crap off the top. Actually looked fairly clean when removed so dury out if changed or not. The bosch pump was slightly diff from the original pump when removed which had no branding on it but fitted OK so sent it.
s**t in the strainer as expected
Back together, fired straight up when primed and seemed to idle a little smoother, unsure if placebo or not but revs as normal.
With any fuel system repairs or mods - afr check should be done just incase something has changed, saves melting a piston or 3.
Dug the oldskool innovate lm1 wideband and sniffer clamp. Still a great bit of kit had it around 15 years and tuned many a gtt on it.
Datalogged the ecu parameters with Rstuner. Full throttle/boost afr 11.8 which is spot on so no problems with new pump.
Coolant temps are a little more stable with bumper undertray fitted, however on a good full throttle pull you can see around 100deg which is too high for my liking. Its fine when driving normally though. Temp gauge never moves off the mark as per any renault of this era, i assume itll need to be 105deg+ to see it shift up a notch.
Its currently got the old aftermarket megane 2 valeo rad off the Kangoo fitted which is not the best for cooling as its not got as many bars as the original rads. Ive got an oem renault rad to fit and waiting for a new thermostat to arrive. This should sort it as the kangoo dropped from high 90s down to high 80s when kicking its head in with a new oem renault rad.
Ill sort it soon as i plan on doing cambelt/waterpump at the same time.
Thanks for reading!!
Bumper undertray was missing which was not helping with airflow to the rad pack. Expensive as fcuk to buy new for a flat bit of plastic and unobtanium 2nd hand unless buying a full bumper.
I bought a povo spec megane bumper undertray which was no where near when offered up so that was a waste of time. I have a couple of ph1 225 front bumpers in the lockup and thought it was worth a look to see if ph1 undertray could be modified to fit.
Turns out, ph2 uses the exact same undertray and it fits perfectly even though the bumper design is slightly different between ph1 and ph2.
Small bit of original left in place
Offered up against ph1, identical. Test fit and goes straight on.
Originally rivited on, used rivnuts instead as have them in stock
Fitted. Centre bolt on front subframe was snapped so had to drill it out and tap it.
Daft hour to do that so moved onto next job, fuel pump. Bought a bosch pump from autodoc, same one i use in the blue meg at 300hp so adequate for this. Easy job as no back seats in. Sender was covered in s**t and looked like original and took half a tin of brake cleaner to get the crap off the top. Actually looked fairly clean when removed so dury out if changed or not. The bosch pump was slightly diff from the original pump when removed which had no branding on it but fitted OK so sent it.
s**t in the strainer as expected
Back together, fired straight up when primed and seemed to idle a little smoother, unsure if placebo or not but revs as normal.
With any fuel system repairs or mods - afr check should be done just incase something has changed, saves melting a piston or 3.
Dug the oldskool innovate lm1 wideband and sniffer clamp. Still a great bit of kit had it around 15 years and tuned many a gtt on it.
Datalogged the ecu parameters with Rstuner. Full throttle/boost afr 11.8 which is spot on so no problems with new pump.
Coolant temps are a little more stable with bumper undertray fitted, however on a good full throttle pull you can see around 100deg which is too high for my liking. Its fine when driving normally though. Temp gauge never moves off the mark as per any renault of this era, i assume itll need to be 105deg+ to see it shift up a notch.
Its currently got the old aftermarket megane 2 valeo rad off the Kangoo fitted which is not the best for cooling as its not got as many bars as the original rads. Ive got an oem renault rad to fit and waiting for a new thermostat to arrive. This should sort it as the kangoo dropped from high 90s down to high 80s when kicking its head in with a new oem renault rad.
Ill sort it soon as i plan on doing cambelt/waterpump at the same time.
Thanks for reading!!
01RS,03 EP3,99 Evo 6
Top work as allways!
It´s coming along really nice the car
It´s coming along really nice the car
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers sir! Its coming together slowlyTop work as allways!
It´s coming along really nice the car
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Super busy but managed an hr on the r26 today to sort the drivers side window.
The window was working when i bought it but failed. Stripped it down and briefly worked when the wiring was moved. Assumed temic module or motor was knackered so stuck it back together and purchased a 2nd hand loom and reg.
Stripped down today to fix, plugged new reg in and still not working. Plugged new door loom in and tested new reg, working. Plugged in the original reg in and worked so faulty loom.
Was going to simply swap door loom out but the one i have is from a dci 175 so no light on doorcard. To save adding wiring to the new loom as bit of a carry on, i had a look at the old loom.
Stripped back the tape on the old loom starting at the regulator wiring as noted a new plug had been spliced on but joints hidden under tape. Once tape was removed, the fault was pretty obvious.
Chopped off the corroded end of wire back to good copper and spliced a new piece of wire in.
Plugged in and working straight away so was potentially a free fix. Still good drivers door temic and regulator are fairly hard to find so handy to have spares as they are a known weak point on the megs.
All back together and drama over.
Thanks for reading!!
Super busy but managed an hr on the r26 today to sort the drivers side window.
The window was working when i bought it but failed. Stripped it down and briefly worked when the wiring was moved. Assumed temic module or motor was knackered so stuck it back together and purchased a 2nd hand loom and reg.
Stripped down today to fix, plugged new reg in and still not working. Plugged new door loom in and tested new reg, working. Plugged in the original reg in and worked so faulty loom.
Was going to simply swap door loom out but the one i have is from a dci 175 so no light on doorcard. To save adding wiring to the new loom as bit of a carry on, i had a look at the old loom.
Stripped back the tape on the old loom starting at the regulator wiring as noted a new plug had been spliced on but joints hidden under tape. Once tape was removed, the fault was pretty obvious.
Chopped off the corroded end of wire back to good copper and spliced a new piece of wire in.
Plugged in and working straight away so was potentially a free fix. Still good drivers door temic and regulator are fairly hard to find so handy to have spares as they are a known weak point on the megs.
All back together and drama over.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
In earlier updates i changed the lower part of the turbo return pipe due to oil leaking onto the manifold. Not enough for massive concern but enough to cause a whiff of oil when pulling up at traffic lights.
When lower part of oil return pipe was replaced, noted chemi metal all over the top part from a previous bodge. Replaced lower pipe and little difference and still weeping a bit as i reused the old gasket.
The problem with diagnosing this leak is visibility is terrible from top and bottom.
This is the view from the bottom when on a lift.
Access looks ok in pic but subframe is right in the way.
Exhaust and driveshaft, and gearbox too.
In reality its a right carry on to gain access to inspect and even harder to change parts.
Close up of return pipe join separating the two pipes with phone wedged in.
As seen wet with oil. I tried to borescope the return area, but was inconclusive to what was the source of the leak as again, access terrible.
To check turbo i took the pre cat lambda out and used the borescope to inspect the turbine wheel to see if it was weeping oil and any oily deposits, to see if the rear turbine seal was leaking.
Looked pretty dry so assumed OK.
Came to the conclusion that the leak was either the top part of the oil return pipe or the top return pipe gasket. The top hard pipe can crack and is right above the exhaust manifold so was a candidate.
As above access is terrible so quickest route was to take the cold side of the turbo off which is not too bad to do. Half hour and the turbo core is out.
With turbo removed i was still not 100% if it was the gasket, oil return pipe or core leaking as basically oil all over. The top part of the oil return pipe had tons of burnt oil on the outside and a dent in it for some unknown reason as somebody has been in the area before.
Turbo after clean up.
Took a gamble on it being the gasket leaking and dripping onto the manifold.
I had a spare top return pipe in good nick, so cleaned the joint faces up so they were perfectly clean and fitted new oem gaskets on both joins and torqued to suit. All back together in 2.5hours total.
Took it for test drive, giving it a few miles to burn the oily residue off. Was skeptical if fixed or not, but seems to be OK and no more oil fumes on idle. Done 50miles and checked the return pipe as can get hand down the back and all seems to be dry so will run it and monitor. If it comes back ill change the turbo core.
A few parts have been arriving so more work to do soon.
Thanks for reading!!
In earlier updates i changed the lower part of the turbo return pipe due to oil leaking onto the manifold. Not enough for massive concern but enough to cause a whiff of oil when pulling up at traffic lights.
When lower part of oil return pipe was replaced, noted chemi metal all over the top part from a previous bodge. Replaced lower pipe and little difference and still weeping a bit as i reused the old gasket.
The problem with diagnosing this leak is visibility is terrible from top and bottom.
This is the view from the bottom when on a lift.
Access looks ok in pic but subframe is right in the way.
Exhaust and driveshaft, and gearbox too.
In reality its a right carry on to gain access to inspect and even harder to change parts.
Close up of return pipe join separating the two pipes with phone wedged in.
As seen wet with oil. I tried to borescope the return area, but was inconclusive to what was the source of the leak as again, access terrible.
To check turbo i took the pre cat lambda out and used the borescope to inspect the turbine wheel to see if it was weeping oil and any oily deposits, to see if the rear turbine seal was leaking.
Looked pretty dry so assumed OK.
Came to the conclusion that the leak was either the top part of the oil return pipe or the top return pipe gasket. The top hard pipe can crack and is right above the exhaust manifold so was a candidate.
As above access is terrible so quickest route was to take the cold side of the turbo off which is not too bad to do. Half hour and the turbo core is out.
With turbo removed i was still not 100% if it was the gasket, oil return pipe or core leaking as basically oil all over. The top part of the oil return pipe had tons of burnt oil on the outside and a dent in it for some unknown reason as somebody has been in the area before.
Turbo after clean up.
Took a gamble on it being the gasket leaking and dripping onto the manifold.
I had a spare top return pipe in good nick, so cleaned the joint faces up so they were perfectly clean and fitted new oem gaskets on both joins and torqued to suit. All back together in 2.5hours total.
Took it for test drive, giving it a few miles to burn the oily residue off. Was skeptical if fixed or not, but seems to be OK and no more oil fumes on idle. Done 50miles and checked the return pipe as can get hand down the back and all seems to be dry so will run it and monitor. If it comes back ill change the turbo core.
A few parts have been arriving so more work to do soon.
Thanks for reading!!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Its not the best mate. I probably should have sorted this whilst subframe was off but had so much other stuff to do so left it.
Ikea
I've just enjoyed reading this from the start, thanks for recording all this great work fo everyone!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
I was expecting the same mate as seen it a load of times on the r5gtt's. Not done loads of miles yet but up to now seems to be ok touch wood!
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Cheers mate. Its getting there slowly
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates
Intercooler on the r26 was a crap tube and fin gpi, chinas finest which looked terrible and performed as s**t as it looked from datalogs, 20+deg above ambient temps on boost. On turbo cars low charge temps are always king to keep the engine happy with nice cool dense air, which releases more power and keeps the engine away from detonation.
Upgrade was needed. Bar and plate are always king for cooling. Browsing 70mm airtec on ebay and got an offer on one new for a great price so hit the switch.
Arrived a few days later. Nice bit of kit, good quality welds and nice air duct.
Had a good used oem valeo rad to fit so done it all in one shot.
Front end off and stripped in half an hr.
Parts all over as usual.
Rad fitted, also replaced thermostat and filled with fresh type d coolant. Fitted an 83deg meg 250 stat as thats what i run in all my f4r's.
Airtec intercooler fitted, straight on no mods required. Was going to replace aircon condensor but the aftermarket one was wrong so had to refit the original. Ill revisit that before summer.
Back together in 1hr30, looks nice and discreet.
Main reason for changing rad was due to the higher coolant temps on boost. I had an aftermarket valeo rad with less bars than oem rad, temps were around 89-92 on cruise which is acceptable, but shooting up to around 100 when on it. Dash temp gauge never moved but they never do unless stupidly hot.
Its typical for the aftermarket rads for megane to cause overheating when used hard. Oem are quite hard to find now so good used had to do. Coolant temps appear to be bang on now on datalogs, around 83-87deg on cruise and into the low 90s on boost. That will do.
The Airtec works excellent from the datalogs. Charge temps 1-2deg higher than ambient temp on boost.
Infact it appears to work a bit too good compared to the gpi and its causing it to overboost a little and closed loop boost control is reigning in the boost by closing the throttle. Very familiar this had the same issue on the Kangoo!!
Boost pressure measured vs map.
Not to worry as ive planned in booking it into Efi for a map.
Intercooler on the r26 was a crap tube and fin gpi, chinas finest which looked terrible and performed as s**t as it looked from datalogs, 20+deg above ambient temps on boost. On turbo cars low charge temps are always king to keep the engine happy with nice cool dense air, which releases more power and keeps the engine away from detonation.
Upgrade was needed. Bar and plate are always king for cooling. Browsing 70mm airtec on ebay and got an offer on one new for a great price so hit the switch.
Arrived a few days later. Nice bit of kit, good quality welds and nice air duct.
Had a good used oem valeo rad to fit so done it all in one shot.
Front end off and stripped in half an hr.
Parts all over as usual.
Rad fitted, also replaced thermostat and filled with fresh type d coolant. Fitted an 83deg meg 250 stat as thats what i run in all my f4r's.
Airtec intercooler fitted, straight on no mods required. Was going to replace aircon condensor but the aftermarket one was wrong so had to refit the original. Ill revisit that before summer.
Back together in 1hr30, looks nice and discreet.
Main reason for changing rad was due to the higher coolant temps on boost. I had an aftermarket valeo rad with less bars than oem rad, temps were around 89-92 on cruise which is acceptable, but shooting up to around 100 when on it. Dash temp gauge never moved but they never do unless stupidly hot.
Its typical for the aftermarket rads for megane to cause overheating when used hard. Oem are quite hard to find now so good used had to do. Coolant temps appear to be bang on now on datalogs, around 83-87deg on cruise and into the low 90s on boost. That will do.
The Airtec works excellent from the datalogs. Charge temps 1-2deg higher than ambient temp on boost.
Infact it appears to work a bit too good compared to the gpi and its causing it to overboost a little and closed loop boost control is reigning in the boost by closing the throttle. Very familiar this had the same issue on the Kangoo!!
Boost pressure measured vs map.
Not to worry as ive planned in booking it into Efi for a map.
Brigsy
ClioSport Club Member
T.Turbo
Updates.
Weathers turned crap so decided to go back to stock wheels for a couple of months.
Planned on doing it on sat but far too cold
Sunday was better so loaded up the R26 van with original wheels on linglong gallopalong shite tyres and good used michelin ps5 that i was given a while back with 4-5mm of tread.
Down to the local garage and my mate swapped the tyres over to the michelins and used the 4poster to fit them, saves messing about at home.
Looks alright to be fair. Prefer the comps but they will do for the couple of months of bad weather we have.
Thanks for reading!!
Weathers turned crap so decided to go back to stock wheels for a couple of months.
Planned on doing it on sat but far too cold
Sunday was better so loaded up the R26 van with original wheels on linglong gallopalong shite tyres and good used michelin ps5 that i was given a while back with 4-5mm of tread.
Down to the local garage and my mate swapped the tyres over to the michelins and used the 4poster to fit them, saves messing about at home.
Looks alright to be fair. Prefer the comps but they will do for the couple of months of bad weather we have.
Thanks for reading!!
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