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391. Zygalski - '05 182 20k, starting to melt top right
I agree about the watchdog petition.
I think if 100+ of us emailed them then Renault would definately be a feature on the show.
According to what's on the lacquer can:
"...Use 1200 grit wet & dry abrasive paper and plenty of water to achieve a matt surface. Removal of the glossy paint surface is necessary to produce the correct lacquered finish..."
I think if you don't sand the finish back you may get that sort of...
Ok so does the 2.0l 16v decal go on before or after the lacquer layer - I'm really not sure?
Ady reckons before the lacquer & I tend to agree.
Anyone else got any ideas???
Briefly:
* key plastic surface with 600 wet & dry
* remove dust with tack cloth (or wash)
* 3 or 4 coats of plastic primer (15 minutes + between each coat)
* leave 24 hours then key again with 600
* remove dust as before
* 4 or 5 coats of colour (15 minutes + between each coat)
* leave 24 hours...
Should be fine.
I used 800 and 1500 wet & dry. The plastic primer has taken perfectly well after keying with the 800.
From start to finish, painting the engine cover is a 3 day job unless you want to risk ballsing it up.
My advice would be
1) Use a battery charger even if indicator is green
2) Take time to make sure you download the correct .rst & .cal files for your ECU from your chassis number (read the manual for explanation!)
3) First thing once you plug in is to read the original ECU & save to your laptop...
Maybe the smaller wheels making the car 1 inch lower also plays a role.
After all, people go on about the 3mm lowering from the suspension pack making a difference & 1 inch = about 24mm
Doesn't the weight of the standard alloys contribute to the handling quality of the car?
I can't imagine they'd go to the lengths of designing signature alloys on a performance hatch if the weight of 'em was just a pure disadvantage.
Because the whole process takes about 1 1/2 hours from start to finish.
If you're tinkering around with the ECU & lose power you could be in deep s**t.
Remember to turn off power to the battery charger (£27 well spent) before you touch the leads because a spark could blow up the battery & you'll...
Hi.
I assume I just unscrew it, prime & then spray on heat-resistent gloss. Leave for a few hours, then stick on the new decals if I can find them?
Anyone got any tips on this job?
I've got a black gold 182.
Thanks.
:)
So if the RR shows 140 bhp atw (and from what people say that seems about right) then you can say 20% max loss atf which means a true engine bhp of 175.
26% transmission loss to generate the 189 bhp atf on a car that's been well looked after & has very low miles seems rather far fetched to me!