ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Where can I order Kent Cams or Piper Cams online
- Thread starter kkchan
- Start date
you really want ot have a look at the full specs before you buy, so contact either kent or piper (i would go with kent) and ask them to fax you full specs. compare this with your standard cams as they usually advertise completely fake stats and specs. Get them to gaurentee that it will provide the claimed 12BHP advertised or you get your money back. They will inevitably say that "well, the 12BHP can only be found with such and such mods" (usually head work).
To a fair extent you wanna grade performance cams by their duration although valve lift is also very important. The first grade of performance road cam is usually around the 270/275 degree duration mark with up to 10% more lift than standard. It should be worth about 4% to 7% extra power with some loss of tractability under 1500 rpm. The next step up in road cams is those with durations in the high 270s to high 280s degrees region and should have up to 20% more lift than standard. Ideally these cams want to be used with cylinder heads modified to flow well at these higher valve lifts. When trying to choose between cams go for the highest lift you can find without exceeding the duration that will give you the tractability you are after.
Finally, I find it very irritating that performance cams arent usually properly ground so that they time in at the recommended setting on the standard pulleys. This is done quite deliberately to make you buy an adjustable pulley too. There is absolutely no reason why a cam ground on a new blank cant have the lobes in exactly the correct position with respect to the standard keyways to ensure perfect timing. I suggest that everyone write to the manufacturer before they buy a cam to ask if it is guaranteed to time in properly with the standard pulleys.
hell yeah, but you will only see the power if the head is up to it. The single major limiting factor to aengines power is not capacity, but inlet valve size. So the bigger you can get the inlet valve, the larger the inlet port can be (before you hit a waterway) the more air you can flow and the more fuel you can burn. So, if you can find a tunning company nearby to open up the ports for you then stick in a mild/fast road camshaft, about 275 degrees. Anyway, when you choose the cam, choose the one with highest lift. But if you do get the ports opened, make sure the company has a flow bench, so the can show you the before and after flow figures, otherwise they *WILL* con you out and charge sh*t loads for nothing.
HI Ben,
I have install a K&N cone filter for more air intake.
http://home1.pacific.net.sg/~spider/new1.gif
http://home1.pacific.net.sg/~spider/new3.gif
http://home1.pacific.net.sg/~spider/new5.gif
http://home1.pacific.net.sg/~spider/new8.gif
Very nice and tidy, and a good place o put it. but afraid it wont do much on its own. You might want to get some exhaust heat wrap to decrease underbonnet temp, it will help. And maybe paint the heatshield silver to reflect more heat, and the ducting from the filter to airbox might want to be covered in some sort of foil to reflect heat.
My brothers in singapore and says that tax on cars is so expensive!!!
hi Ben,
How do I decrease the underbonnet temp?
Thanks for the advise, will definitely look for some sort of foil to reflect heat.
yeah...cars in Singapore has a lifespan of 10 yrs...after that, have to pay again to attain the car & also have to pay higher tax. Imagine a brand new Clio 2.0 RS 172bhp cost 44,942GBP!
yeah, my bro is running a 1.6 audi A4 which he hates as its so slow, he used to have a M3 BMW here in the UK, but he just cant afford a car in singapore....but jesus!!! 44 grand.
The best way to decrease the temp in your engine bay is tow wrap the exhaust manifold and down pipe in a special type of heat wrap. It keeps the exhaust temp inside the pipes and not radiating into the engine bay, also, using foil to reflect heat and sealing areas around the sir filter and ducting cool air from outside is as much as you can really do in such a hot country. Also, when you wanna go fater, turn off your aircon as it saps between 4-10% of the engines power depending on size of the compressor.
not really vacuum cleaner tubing...its not rubbery though...but dark in colour all the same...
am intending to experiment using alum aircon insulation material sandwiched between 2 layers of ordinary alum foil...dunno if it will work...
your opinion please, ben?
tks in advance...
kona
www.renaultcarclub.com
BenR, you seem to be the authority on the matter. I want more power!!!!
Its a Clio 16v 93, Full Magnex exhaust + Decat, (Currently - Ramair induction...Will have a Pipercross Viper on as soon as I can get my hands on one) Ecoteck valve. These are the only engine mods I have. I toyed with getting an FSE power boost valve but have had mixed responses and frankly is just more childs play. A Dastek ECU chip looks like a good starting point. Other than this, what are the best engine mods to get done and what is the best order to carry them out.
hi Ben,
another question....does this thing works? A magnet that clips on fuel lines
http://www.magnetizer.com/engine.htm
Save Gas -Save Money - More Miles Per Gallon
10-15% Average Fuel Savings
+ 5% Increase in Horse Power 1
+ 50% Reduction of Carbon Monoxide & Hydrocarbons
Sanctioned Internationally as Emissions Reduction Equipment
Helps Pass Emission Testing
High Octane Performance With Lower Octane Fuel
Save $ Per Gallon at The Pump
Improve Performance - Quicker Starts
Better and Faster Running
Maintains Cooling System Efficiency
Stops Scale Build-up and Corrosion in Engine
Reduced Wear 0n O2 Sensor and Catalytic Converter
No Tools Required - Just Strap on in Minutes
ok.....wow
KK - no the magnet wil do nothing, and the ecotek will do a little. I had one for a while, but it broke, didnt really notice much. and tuninng it is a pain in the arse, as sometimes it wobbles loose and screwes itself. Cutting the brake servo line is not a problem, as its just a vacuum pipe. But for 40 quid, why not.
Kona - good idea with the aircon wrap and foil, sounds like a good idea, maybe you could cover the airbox in it too, as this will be hot too.
tohowe - Well, the PBV will only increase fuleling by replacing the regulator and forcing more in. This is because fuel is normally burnt at 15:1, and the pbv will decrease that to 12:1, making more eficient use of the air available. Set it up wrong and it will suck.
in my opinion of getting mods the order should be:
1 filter (the new viper will rock!!!)
2 exhaust
3 datsek uni chip
4 head ported and flowed anlong with the inlet manifold and exhaust manifold
5 cams ( fast road and nothing above)
6 balance and knife edge crank, and increase comp ratio
7 bigger inlet valves
8 faster car
i deally you would want to get the cams and head done at the same time, but if money prevents this, get the head work done forst, then you increase from the new cam will be more fun!!
For a cheap cooling option. I wrapped my induction hose that leads from my K&N (located in the wing) in nothing more than kitchen foil (dont laugh!).
I used a 5 metre length of the heavy duty turkey wrap and then folded it length ways to create a pocket of air. Then used this as normal heat wrap and secured it with hose clips.
It picks up much better now when Ive been sitting in heavy traffic.
Thanks for the advice Ben....looks like I need to start saving!
On the ecotek thing. The only reason I put it on was because one of my mates fitted one to his Pug and battered on about it making the throttle response smoother amongst other things. Cos my car is nine years old it was a bit jerky accelerating and de-accelerating heavily in traffic, its much smoother now......and gargley.
forget the tin foil chaps...get a pipercross viper.
Actually..£250...hmmm whered I put that tin foil....
Dont look like it. Currently...
5 GT Turbo 1397cc (including heat shield) 6/87>8/90 VFC062
5 Super GT Turbo (including heat shield) 1984>8/90 VFC062
19 Sport 16V 1990>10/95 VFC048
Clio 1.2 Mpi Mk2 (including silicone hose) 1998> VFC160
Clio RSi II/III 1991> VFC045
Megane 1.6i 11/95> VF046
Damnit, why havent they brought one out for the old school 1.8 valver, but have for a 1.2 Mk2!!!Makes no sense to me. No offense to 1.2 Mk2 owners!
Ive sent Pipercross an email enquiring about when they are likely to have a full range.(more importantly, one for my car)
allo benr...
got my k&n air filter replaced...battery water has seeped into the bugger over time and the material got eaten up
at the same time, mechanic took out the heatshield which was slightly eaten by the battery water and resprayed for me to silver to reflect the heat, like you mentioned...very happy
thanks for your suggestion!
kona
www.renaultcarclub.com
Similar threads
