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MKIII 138
the worst response to these threads is "learn to drive" "dont floor it in 1st" etc.. stupid comments imo
last wed on the way to work both my usual ways in were blcoked with traffic i had left enough room in the road to turn around safell go back to another route without traffic, however the righ hand lane was clear and so any cars coming out of the city would be doing around 50-70mph of course im not one to leave it to chance i checked it was clear and then quite quickly behind me came another car as i had turned and was straigght it was time to accelarate so as not to inconvienience the car now hurtling towards me (must have sped up once he/she had seen me) ok no probs.. 0-60 in 6.22 at least officially 6.5..... foot down 3/4 of the way so 90% throttle whilst rolling at 10mph and .... bang, bang, bang,... not going very fast forwards... 2nd gear.. bang bang.. at then finally late in 2nd i had established some sort of grip and made it upto speed.
im tired of people saying "learn to drive" it doesnt take much driving skill to go forwards in a straight line rolling already and unless you shudder off in 2nd and muller the clutch as you cant release of you will stall then i find it hard to understand how i could drive any better ??? how much effot should i put in to setting off from a junction, the clutch pedal is stiff, it bites too high so unless you rev you could stall as there is a perceptable dip in power as the cluctch is fully lifted and the accelarator is pressed, hence why launching is about the right revs.
even simple moderate junction exits are a pain, off course too little and you will stall and too much and your engine will bang like fook unless its bone dry, and your tyres are hot.
its a s**t piece of design, wheels spin is ok, i expect that in a powerful lightweigh fwd car, but banging actually makes the situation worse as the wheels bounce.
why do people talk crap about 0-60`s on here when knowones car can get the power down unless its dry, ohh hang on we live in the UK where its either, rainy, slippy, icy, snowy etc.. there was two weeks of summer this year big wow !
i love the cup once moving and i loved my 172MKII when moving but getting it to move due to heavy clutch, high bite point, heavy revs, axel tramp (or whatever is causing it) makes moving a b**ch + combine with the 172`s lathargy at low rpm and its a c**k to get moving compared with any other normal everyday car.
last wed on the way to work both my usual ways in were blcoked with traffic i had left enough room in the road to turn around safell go back to another route without traffic, however the righ hand lane was clear and so any cars coming out of the city would be doing around 50-70mph of course im not one to leave it to chance i checked it was clear and then quite quickly behind me came another car as i had turned and was straigght it was time to accelarate so as not to inconvienience the car now hurtling towards me (must have sped up once he/she had seen me) ok no probs.. 0-60 in 6.22 at least officially 6.5..... foot down 3/4 of the way so 90% throttle whilst rolling at 10mph and .... bang, bang, bang,... not going very fast forwards... 2nd gear.. bang bang.. at then finally late in 2nd i had established some sort of grip and made it upto speed.
im tired of people saying "learn to drive" it doesnt take much driving skill to go forwards in a straight line rolling already and unless you shudder off in 2nd and muller the clutch as you cant release of you will stall then i find it hard to understand how i could drive any better ??? how much effot should i put in to setting off from a junction, the clutch pedal is stiff, it bites too high so unless you rev you could stall as there is a perceptable dip in power as the cluctch is fully lifted and the accelarator is pressed, hence why launching is about the right revs.
even simple moderate junction exits are a pain, off course too little and you will stall and too much and your engine will bang like fook unless its bone dry, and your tyres are hot.
its a s**t piece of design, wheels spin is ok, i expect that in a powerful lightweigh fwd car, but banging actually makes the situation worse as the wheels bounce.
why do people talk crap about 0-60`s on here when knowones car can get the power down unless its dry, ohh hang on we live in the UK where its either, rainy, slippy, icy, snowy etc.. there was two weeks of summer this year big wow !
i love the cup once moving and i loved my 172MKII when moving but getting it to move due to heavy clutch, high bite point, heavy revs, axel tramp (or whatever is causing it) makes moving a b**ch + combine with the 172`s lathargy at low rpm and its a c**k to get moving compared with any other normal everyday car.
1
172beast
Adjust the engine mounts, it'll help no end, did the top mount and one under battery on my old un and it pretty much eliminated the knocking, just moved the mounts forward more, only few mm but stopped it.
M
mark Saville
Either convert to rear wheel drive or drive in reverse!
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
1
172beast
Its the mounts yes, just adjust em, not hard, I got a mate to pull the engine forward while I moved the mount as far forward as poss then tightened it up good and proper, did same on mount under battery and it solved it. They'll slip back again like but like 20 minute job to adjust em again, mine lasted about 20k until I sold it and didn't need adjusting again like.
® Andy
ClioSport Club Member
Illiad V6 255
If it's when the wheels are spinning initially then it's mostly tramp ... wheels are scrabbling for traction and bounce a bit.
If it's knocks/vibrations when more generally at full chat then it's most likely the mounts. As you can see most owners have the problem since standard 172 mounts aren't up to the job ... and so as engine twists on full power it knocks or touches stuff. Not much clearance in there. My 172 used to touch the manifold against the heat shields and vibrate.
Given the age of your 172 I don't reckon you'll be able to use the uprated K-Tec bottom mount unfortunately. Mk1s have a more traditional dog bone ... with big circle at one end and small at the other.
If it's knocks/vibrations when more generally at full chat then it's most likely the mounts. As you can see most owners have the problem since standard 172 mounts aren't up to the job ... and so as engine twists on full power it knocks or touches stuff. Not much clearance in there. My 172 used to touch the manifold against the heat shields and vibrate.
Given the age of your 172 I don't reckon you'll be able to use the uprated K-Tec bottom mount unfortunately. Mk1s have a more traditional dog bone ... with big circle at one end and small at the other.
it's a very frustrating problem.I've had my 172 on an 02 plate for 6 months now and my only gripe is the knocking i've replaced all engine mounts.Problem still there so i replaced the bottom mount with the k tec one.Guess what it's better but it's still there.I'm now thinking its the exhaust i had made buy long life is to heavy for the mounts and when the judder starts it sounds like a ska band
MarkCup
ClioSport Club Member
This engine mount mod that seems to cure it...does the modification itself...
1. ...actually stop the engine moving or
2. ...relocate the engine just slightly so it doesn't catch whatever it was banging on in the first place?
1. ...actually stop the engine moving or
2. ...relocate the engine just slightly so it doesn't catch whatever it was banging on in the first place?
ive put a guide of how to stop the grumbling in the low gears, its a sticky at the top of the mechanical page.
E91 M Sport
Big G said:Happened in my Fiesta Zetec-S, happened in my 182 and it happened on my M roadster today - so it does indeed occur on rear wheel drive
lol, is that because you've been driving too fast!
E91 M Sport
I bet, its been damn cold down here too, but thankfully fwd is a little more predictable (or is that just being boring )
)yeap, has got pretty bad on yours then, once youve undone the dog bone mount, you may even be able to wobble the bracket, thats how bad mine got at one point!
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