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what machine polisher do you recommend
- Thread starter sweeney23
- Start date
kestrel das-6 is what i use, Nice and Light and Easy to control.
This was the Package I got -
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Kestrel_DAS-6_Menz_Kit_1_1.html
Then purchased a couple of extra compounds to give me the full range of Cut i wanted
This was the Package I got -
http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Kestrel_DAS-6_Menz_Kit_1_1.html
Then purchased a couple of extra compounds to give me the full range of Cut i wanted
Have a read here - http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859
Will tell you ALL you need to know and so much more about Polishing
Will tell you ALL you need to know and so much more about Polishing
so you all say dont go for the meguirs 1 then
1.2 Dynamique billabong
i use an ultimate detailing machine (UDM) and it seems to work well, especially for beginners as its less aggressive than some so a bit more on the safe side (obviously different pads and cutting compounds will effect this) mine came as part of a sonus kit from autopia (had to import it back then but they are now more readily available) there are better products that the sonus stuff but to start off with they are fine
this thread maybe of some use
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=267499
this thread maybe of some use
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=267499
Last edited:
1.2 Dynamique billabong
is this the kit you are using buddy http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/meguiars/deep-crystal-3-step-system.aspx
the kit still uses a form of cutting compound in the form of the 'restore polish' albeit a mild one however it is important to realise that it is the combination of pad and polish which determines how aggressive it is. Therefore even with a mild polish if you use and aggressive pad it is still possible to cause damage to the paint work. Most professionals will use a standard rotary polisher as they are quicker to achieve the results - however they are also quicker to burn the paint surface if you are unsure what you are doing. Dual action random orbital polishers like the UDM are much easier for beginners as pad isnt spinning in the same location. it may take a little longer to achieve the same results but for me i would rather play it safe and do it this way than risk having to respray a whole pannel.
http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/sonus/das-ii-machine-polishing-kit.aspx
the sonus polish kit above is the same as mine (but not with a UDM) in first stage the polish has larger particles which makes the cutting more aggressive and is design to remove swirl marks, in the second stage the polish has a finer grain which gets even smaller as the polish is worked in and is used to remove lighter marks left by the first process. the final stage is a standard polish to bring out the final shine / finish. i then use a 3rd party wax. The meguiars kit seems to be similar but combines stage 1 & 2 of the sonus kit into one and then provides you with a wax.
the kit still uses a form of cutting compound in the form of the 'restore polish' albeit a mild one however it is important to realise that it is the combination of pad and polish which determines how aggressive it is. Therefore even with a mild polish if you use and aggressive pad it is still possible to cause damage to the paint work. Most professionals will use a standard rotary polisher as they are quicker to achieve the results - however they are also quicker to burn the paint surface if you are unsure what you are doing. Dual action random orbital polishers like the UDM are much easier for beginners as pad isnt spinning in the same location. it may take a little longer to achieve the same results but for me i would rather play it safe and do it this way than risk having to respray a whole pannel.
http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/sonus/das-ii-machine-polishing-kit.aspx
the sonus polish kit above is the same as mine (but not with a UDM) in first stage the polish has larger particles which makes the cutting more aggressive and is design to remove swirl marks, in the second stage the polish has a finer grain which gets even smaller as the polish is worked in and is used to remove lighter marks left by the first process. the final stage is a standard polish to bring out the final shine / finish. i then use a 3rd party wax. The meguiars kit seems to be similar but combines stage 1 & 2 of the sonus kit into one and then provides you with a wax.
Chris205
ClioSport Club Member
Many Things
I first started off using my mates Porter cable on my clio, it did correct around 85% but now I have my rotary I can get it to go pretty much 100% correction, I have done on my bonnet and it looks brilliant
Best thing to do is start with a dual action and once you're more confident buy a rotary, rotary's are pretty cheap anyway, I know the silverline and kestral rotary's are identical apart from colour
As for compounds, Ive always used 3m, Tried some poor boys compound and for cutting its no gd, but for finishing its spot on
Pads - I started off using 3m 3 stage pads (green, yellow and blue) Ive now moved on to a flexi pads cutting pads and still use the 3m finishing pads
Best thing to do is start with a dual action and once you're more confident buy a rotary, rotary's are pretty cheap anyway, I know the silverline and kestral rotary's are identical apart from colour
As for compounds, Ive always used 3m, Tried some poor boys compound and for cutting its no gd, but for finishing its spot on
Pads - I started off using 3m 3 stage pads (green, yellow and blue) Ive now moved on to a flexi pads cutting pads and still use the 3m finishing pads
