The everlasting ph1 ITB Build **GREEN-BUILD STARTS AT PAGE 100**

[Nafoff]

I wouldn't cut threads into the bolts, High tensile are normally manufactured with a rolled thread rather than a cut thread for strength, Just order bolts

Exactly this, after speaking with my neighbour, he said: They are heat treated after they have thread cut into them so are not very easy to cut new thread into, you will just end up making a mess or f*ck the die. I will be looking into new bolts for the inner 2 bolts on both sides. these will have to be 100mm.

What happened to the old bolts? Can you not just get them all plated?

They are terrible and don't have any head on, I am replacing all new throughout anyways

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
Progress has been very slow. As previously mentioned there is an illness in the family and basically it completely f*cking sucks. It is escalating super quick and is just such a sad scenario. This is pretty much my whole focus at the moment and making sure I maintain the support that is needed. This means that the car is taking a back seat a bit again, life has to get in the way this time and obviously I am not that fussed about it...

but, I am getting little bits of time on it to try and keep it moving forward slowly.
One of the first things I needed to sort was shorter bolts for the rear beam bolts, these were ordered from Cromwells and then the rear beam mounts were um, mounted.
It sat with just the mounts on for a while until I got a second pair of hands (to make it easier) to help lift the beam up, the beam was mounted and then also the rear shocks. For the rear shocks I had been given some Nylon bushes, this should help stiffen them up some more.

I then checked over the rear hubs, organised the nuts, bolts and washers out and then mounted these up, followed by the Whiteline arb - I have decided the mounts for this will be coming back off for a lick of paint.

A nice hint at how the green, black and yellow will work.
I then wanted to move to the inside and start mounting things up so I can work out routings for the brake and fuel lines. The main items to get mounted up were the pedal box and the steering column (both of which had already been cleaned, painted and stored away).
The pedal box mounted up great but before I fitted the steering column I wanted to remove the extra collar that was no longer needed.

With that sorted it was mounted up, perfect and the black sits really nice with the green. I have also fitted a new bolt to the steering column height adjuster. should work a treat.

Next up is to fit the fuel tank, gear stick, handbrake and seat side mounts and possibly the false floors. This will allow me to figure line routings and these can then get mounted up.... Slow and steady wins the race... except in an actual race, then you just lose

 

[scotiamr2t]

Good to see more progress, but also sorry to hear about the family illness

 

[Paul172sport]

Looks absolutely stunning.
Any chance you could share the spreadsheet of the bolt information?

Hope it all comes together nicely for you.
Colour combo is spot on

 

[Nafoff]

Any chance you could share the spreadsheet of the bolt information?

Check out this thread, lots of chat about it and an image of the spreadsheet.
https://www.cliosport.net/threads/nuts-and-bolts.814078/#post-11567380

 

[haimsey]

Good progress still. Colour scheme looks great!
Sorry to hear you’ve had bad news in the family

 

[t90_lle]

Just started from page 100... great progress from what I’ve seen so far... subscribed... :up:

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
It has been increasingly hard to get work done on the car recently, but progress has been made and albeit slow... progress is progress. I have had to settle for completing little jobs so I can easily dip in and out, all the jobs need doing though so if it doesn't matter on the order they are getting done.

So with the rear beam (previously fitted) now in place I wanted to look at mounting the fuel tank back up. Everything was cleaned up and then fitting commenced.
It is worth noting now that before I am fitting anything onto the car I am polishing and waxing the body. Some may thing this is mental for a track car and totally necessary but whilst I have a completely bare shell why would I not do this? Ultimately it will protect the car a little more, prolong its life and hopefully will mean that water and dirt just beads off therefore making it cleaner and easier to work on...

Fuel cap riveted in, so glad I decided to go out of the way to get black rivets.... it makes a difference. I do now need a fuel filler cap without a lock now though, I was told the twingo's come like this but have not been able to find anything out, anybody any ideas?

After fitting up the rear-arb previously I wasn't happy that the mountings were all galvanised rather than black so those came back off and were turned black, its not going to make me quicker but my OCD wasn't happy about it... These were all painted and re-fitted. Also the new fuel hose between the filler neck and the fuel tank was fitted. All looking good.

I had perhaps jumped the gun a little bit refitting the stub axles as I was chatting with James Ashton again about shimming the rear axles. He had some old shims that I could take off of him and although we currently don't know how my rear beam is I decided to add the shims ^20,^30,<10 and <10,^30,^20 each side respectively.

Next up was the rear brakes, these are pretty crucial to get in as this will really help me determine how to run the brake lines. The discs were mounted up (with spacer that people lose/forget) and the hub nuts were tightened up to torque. For anyone wondering about the short stud, this was for a locker, I may have to look into replacing those in future.

I then ran into a problem, the replacement calliper mount bolts that I ordered from cromwells are way to long, by a long way...
I am now going to have to order new lengths... and update my spread sheet. More importantly that put me out of stride slightly as I had momentum and really set to get this done.

I needed to re-evaluate and look at progressing elsewhere.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
With the focus to have as much/many of the interior items in as possible so I can work out the fuel and brake line routings I set about looking into those bits, For some of this to go back in though it needed some coats of paint. It is a little frustrating because it doesn't seem like you are achieving much but ultimately I won't be happy if it isn't done right.

First up to fit was the Cup race roof scoop. The holes were already made prior to paint so all I had to do was bolt it up. I added a tiny bit of sealant around both sides of the scoop to prevent water ingress and rattles, this was then tighten down. I added the drain but there is not a nice routing for this and I am fully aware that this is probably not going to work due to the angle so am keen to see what anyone else has done.

The handbrake also needs to go in so I can figure out where my control panels and brake bias valve is going to sit. This was one of the items that needed a coat of paint.
Whilst I was at it with the handbrake I found out a couple of other items that I knew needed to go satin black - I have boxes of parts everywhere and I am really keen to start minimising these so any parts I can get done and bolted up are getting sorted too.
Front and rear diamonds and rear hub nut covers - these are all now drying.

Speaking of boxes and boxes of items I have a "panel fitting" box that is just getting in the way. Quite a lot of these bits could go back on so I started to address these and have lost a box. This should technically be a quick job, but as I previously mentioned every paint panel is getting a protection polish & was so it took a little bit longer....
The rear boot rubber is on now on though, so are the breather flaps (name?)....

Closely followed by the passenger door rubber and then the side skirt mount clips, again so happy I went for black rivets - not that anyone will see them....lol
Talking of colour coding, I ONLY use colour coded (to the car) tools:tonguewink:

That pretty much filled my weekend, along with stripping and re-painting one of my bikes and also visiting Sunday Scramble at Bicester Heritage.
Progress will be slow again the next few week as we have a fair bit on. But also something exciting that may indirectly effect the clio.

With the family illness my wife and I are very much changing our outlooks on things. Alongside this we may have the chance to purchase a very cool campervan. This may shape what we do in the near future, it may not... but if we purchase it, it is going to get used a lot - how does this effect the clio - well it will make a bloody good tow vehicle. :up:

 

[haimsey]

Coming along nicely :up:
Black rivets are a nice touch!

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
So the car isn’t finished, and a little way off. But today my wife and I put a deposit on a tow vehicle...

It seems I have a thing for green.

 

[Chambers_RS]

Looks military

 

[green]

Beastly looking van!... clios comming along nicely I

 

[Nafoff]

Looks military

Its not military, but close - ex police riot van in its previous life.

Beastly looking van!... clios comming along nicely I

It was a friends, fully kitted out and self reliant. I will post more pictures up in future but reluctant whilst it is still with the current owners

 

[20vKarlos]

That’s a bloody awesome camper!!
All the green stuff in this thread is bloody lovely!

Can they wait for more pictures of this!!

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
We now have an agreed date to collect the van being the start of next month - very excited about that.

As for the car, progress is still very slow - time is still very short and I am having to make do with doing little jobs as and when I can (mainly evenings). This update must cover a couple of weeks - a little frustrating but in the grand scheme of things does it matter...

I have lots of boxes and bags of bits for the car so I have been trying to filter those down a bit too so even though it may not directly be speeding the shell work up, it makes space in the garage therefore making these easier. These boxes contain things like - door sills and side skirt clips (the drivers side now also done)

and things like door trims, and badges...

As I posted in the previous update I also painted several bits, some being the badges (front and rear). I finished these up, fitted the front diamond to the bonnet along with the aerocatches.

I also got the rear aerocatches fitted but when I came to fit the rear diamond it appears I need to cut more out of the tailgate (where the badge button sits), quite frustrating - I am wondering if there is a better approach to running the button)

Other bits I got painted were a couple interior parts, such as the handbrake. This has also now been fitted. The interior bits are priority really as they will allow me to work out space for running the fuel and brake lines (before I drop the engine in), all sat there ready to go.

Part of the interior fit out will be running the custom loom. I bought this of James Ashton a fair while ago and handily we now live very close so in a week or 2's time he will be coming over to help run that, I think once that happens things may move a fair bit quicker. Hopefully...

 

[Danith]

This beast is still going?! NICE!

 

[Nafoff]

This beast is still going?! NICE!

Going is a bit far fetched.... update soon though

 

[Danith]

Sorta meant the car/thread remember this from years ago

 

[Nafoff]

Sorta meant the car/thread remember this from years ago

Knows mate, only messing.... It is a bit of an old thread... ha

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:

Again it doesn't really feel like lots has been achieved but everything seems to take longer than you originally think. I am also not going to rush it for no reason...
As previously mentioned the interior loom was to be run, this has to be tied in with fitting of the carbon floors, again everything was prepped with wax as it won't ever be touched again hopefully.

James very kindly offered to come help fit his old loom - the knowledge and tools would be priceless as we needed to tweak some items. All the loom items were unboxed and laid out to see routings, the carbon floors were also placed in to work things out.

Holes needed to be made in the bulkhead for the connections. This is where time gets added as the holes need to be as snug as possible and also once made need to be painted and let to dry... well thats an easy +24hrs.... but it is worth while.

You can see the 3 holes above. With those made, painted, dried and then applied with grommets we set about running the loom. The connections that pass through these holes needed to be de-pinned. There were also some parts of the loom that needed adjusting to match my set-up and the differences to James' set-up... still looking well neat in the engine bay and scuttle area.

There are a couple extra wires in the scuttle area that I may not need initially but good to have the option in future, one of these will be for the exterior kill switch to be mounted under the windscreen in the scuttle. You can see that we have mounted the wiper assembly up so thats another job done. All of these need to be finalised and P-clipped in. With most of the interior and front light loom routed we could then look at how these came back to the passenger carbon floor mounting.

Pretty happy with how its going. As mentioned above all the wires need P-clipping but I will also then be running the fuel lines and brake lines before I finalise where they will be clipped. I also want to get the seat side mounts in to truly figure out space.

Away from the interior another small/quick job I was going to do was to fit the rain gutter trims. I say quick... it was meant to be but I was supplied the wrong clips, very hard to notice but they were mm's different, it took a while to sort this as they had to be special order from France but with them now I will get round to this shortly.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:

I have had to order some parts, 1 of these being the new aux belt... 1 for new and 1 for spare.

I need/want to order a few more parts also, but just need to check prices, a couple of bits of interest are the PMS strut brace and the PMS shifter kit...
I also need to order a firewall grommet for one of the inner scuttle panel areas, but found these at an ok price on ebay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seals-It...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

I plan to get some more time on that this week, so more car updates soon hopefully.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE (non car)

There is a reason this has been delayed a few weeks in that I haven't been around for the past 2 weeks. 2 weeks ago I headed out to the Isle of Man TT. What an experience, pretty crazy a bike passing you at 200mph only a metre away... Properly enjoyed it and great to share it with my dad as part of his bucket list.

The other reason was picking up our new (to us) van, so stoked with it, proper bit of kit and it is totally self sufficient. We picked it up and headed for West Wales, so nice to just totally switch off. I have attached a few more pics below - should make a great tow/support vehicle for the clio too.

Solar panel, large electric awning, full water filtration system, LPG and electric boiler, shower, compostable toilet, double bed, garage with MTB mount tray, lots of storage in the garage and the living quarters, rear view camera, DAB/satnav/camera headunit. Can't wait to just keep using it....

 

[haimsey]

Van looks amazing, good purchase ?

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:

So I managed to get out to the car tonight, but it was short lived due to frustration of the situation. This then frustrated me even more as I feel like I need to crack on... In the grand scheme of things though its just a car, its just money and/or time...

After having a good look at the brakes for my build I think I need to consider my options. They been stored for about 5+ years, I am not happy with the painted finish at all (I am unsure when I thought it was decent), but more importantly I also want them to be as refreshed/as new as the rest of the build - they are quite important.
I think my options are

1. Buy new OE items
2. Get these calipers refurbed
3. Look at aftermarket solutions

Option 3 may be out as I have brand new lines ready to go, Carbon Lorraine pads, grooved discs and Motul fluid waiting to go for the OE items so just looking up pricing.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:

I have followed up on the brakes and am at a bit of a stalemate with what to do.
Refurbs are around £100 per calliper, new items are cheaper but have a long lead time and one of the rears isn't even available...

Currently I am unsure what to do. As the rears a re a little stiff it has been suggested to remove the dust seals on the carrying pins and grease the pins (leaving the seals off), and then just seeing how they fair. I guess they are a bolt on item so I can always change them out in future.

With the above spinning in my mind I needed to cover off some of the other jobs to keep the little bit of momentum.
First job was to seal the cockpit. I am unsure why this hole is here, it was made a while back and forgotten about, but now it will cause an issue.

So a Seal-it seal was ordered and has been mocked-up to fit, all holes have been repainted to protect the paint. I will then cover the inner side with a bit of sealant before I rivet it in place.

The next couple of jobs are to help determine the routing for the brake, fuel lines and loom inside the car. First up was to fit the drivers side false floor. This was a little tight but eventually (in a sweaty mess) this was fitted, I guess the tighter it is the less it will rattle.

Next up was fitting the seat sidemounts. These needed slightly re-drilling so time was taken to measure up, get the seating position right before making any holes.

It was great to get the seat in and get a feel for what it will be like. With all the holes drilled I gave the sidemounts a quick re-coat of paint aswell as the seals-it metal edging. The sidemounts will be fitted once dry and then I will be starting to run/work out the loom and lights routing.

IF ANYONE HAS SUGGESTIONS ON THE BRAKES, PLEASE SHOUT OUT

 

[Rubicon_]

Lovely mate, van is cool also!

In regards to brakes im about to do my rears when the beam is off. Going to strip down get them blasted then either powder coat or just spray them myself with new seals etc. Atleast you know theyll last then.

£30 for new seal kit both sides.

 

[NorthloopCup]

I think I’ve got some rear calipers mate that are good. I’ll look in the garage and let you know. To you, they’ll be FOC.

 

[green]

In regards to taking the seals off the calipers...In my experience it’s only a short fix..road grim etc gets in and they start to bind again.
Rebuild or new I’m afraid.

 

[Nafoff]

Lovely mate, van is cool also!
In regards to brakes im about to do my rears when the beam is off. Going to strip down get them blasted then either powder coat or just spray them myself with new seals etc. Atleast you know theyll last then. £30 for new seal kit both sides.

I may look into this approach, perhaps before or after the car is assembled. As you say if they are done at least you know....

I think I’ve got some rear calipers mate that are good. I’ll look in the garage and let you know. To you, they’ll be FOC.

Will fire you a message mate.

In regards to taking the seals off the calipers...In my experience it’s only a short fix..road grim etc gets in and they start to bind again. Rebuild or new I’m afraid.

Interesting to hear that. The car is going to be a track car with very very little road use. I have been told this approach should be alright aslong as I keep applying grease.

 

[haimsey]

With regards the rear brakes, I’ve got screen shots on my iPad, can’t remember who posted it, where 197/200 rear calipers had been used on a 1*2. All that needed doing was a bracket making for the abs sensor.
I’ll have a search see if I can find the thread

 

[Nafoff]

With regards the rear brakes, I’ve got screen shots on my iPad, can’t remember who posted it, where 197/200 rear calipers had been used on a 1*2. All that needed doing was a bracket making for the abs sensor.
I’ll have a search see if I can find the thread

That could be perfect... mainly because I have no abs too

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:

A little bit more done (although nothing with the brakes, I need to sort that really).
More prep on the interior and sorting little bits that all seem to take time.

The Seals-it firewall gromit had dried from paint and with some black sealant on the rear was riveted to the bulk head. The wire was de-pinned and threaded through along with the roof scoop drain.

The armteck mointing plate had also finished drying so this was also mounted up (first to the armtech and then to the carbon floor)

I also received an order I made from PMS a couple of weeks back. I previously had ordered the top mounts but didn't order the strut brace. As they all need to be fitted together if you are going to I thought I best future-proof and order this now - DONE. But whilst I was placing the order I thought I ought to treat the car to a new shifter also - I have heard a lot of good things about the PMS shifter and with pretty much no other options out there this was ordered, and then promptly mount upon the day of receipt.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
Things have been pretty busy lately, with family and also with some mtb racing so priorities have not been on car progression, but now that has passed I am beginning to refocus on the car.

As seen in the previous post I managed to get the PMS shifter in. My aim was to get all the items inside the car in so I can then figure the brake and fuel lines around them. Most items were already in but one item I needed to figure out was the control box. The loom for this is quite short so the control box should sit nicely on the tunnel, I just needed to figure out how.

When I purchased this set-up it came with a bracket but this didn't really sit in a nice area on mine. I mounted the drivers seat and tried the bracket infront of the shifter (to far away) and there wasn't enough space to angle it towards me behind the shifter so I decided to mount it directly to the PMS shifter.

I measured a lot of times, checked that the rivnuts would not foul the shaft underneath and then marked everything up.

The holes were then drilled and the rivnuts fitted.

The control box is exactly the same height as the bottom of the shifter (with space for the loom at the base), nice and neat.

Pretty pleased with that.
Next up and as I had the rivnut tool out I also needed to look at mounting the anderson plug connector.
Again I measured up several times, drilled and then fitted the rivnuts, these were given a nice coat of green also and allowed to dry before bolting the anderson plug in.

I then removed the drivers seat and bolted it to the passenger side as that will be the constraint for space and running the brake and fuel lines.
all is looking good though.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
So with all the items pretty much inside the car I needed to take a first look at the line routing. A couple of bits that needed sorting before this and to allow me to get things right were the AC pipe delete engine bay panel and the brake master cylinder.

Master cylinder in.

and the AC delete panel bolted up (with black hardware)

Now this is where the confusion starts a little.
I opened the pack to the Pro-line brake line kit and started to route it from the rear. I am very confident that I have the rear through to the bulkhead right...

But it was from the bulkhead/engine bay side I am unsure on... I didn't have anything to reference initially so these have only been placed...

I am pretty sure this is in-correct, and when I get it correct I am hoping that the passenger side will not be too long and the drivers side will not be too short.
I have found some reference material (shown below) but if anyone can post some advice that would be great.

 

[robzracing]

You last screen shot is my car. Assuming you have the same kit as me, I had to move my bias valve forward of the handbrake to have enough length to reach the MC. But then again it probably depends on where you are coming through the bulkhead.
PM me if you need more info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nafoff]

You last screen shot is my car. Assuming you have the same kit as me, I had to move my bias valve forward of the handbrake to have enough length to reach the MC. But then again it probably depends on where you are coming through the bulkhead.
PM me if you need more info.

Cheers chap, the bit that I am most unsure of is the where it comes out of the master cylinder, but I will use your image to try and work it out...
Although my kit looks different as I have a second T-piece - I think that is what is confusing matters.

 

[robzracing]

I can see now you have the non Cup MC. That’s why you have the second tee piece. I’ve seen that mounted on the inner wing to the left of the MC looking from the front but I would have thought either side should be ok.
Might be worth speaking to Mitch at Proline. He was really helpful while I was trying to work mine out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Nafoff]

I can see now you have the non Cup MC. That’s why you have the second tee piece. I’ve seen that mounted on the inner wing to the left of the MC looking from the front but I would have thought either side should be ok.
Might be worth speaking to Mitch at Proline. He was really helpful while I was trying to work mine out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty sure I have the Cup master cylinder, I just have currently placed the lines in completely the wrong place. What makes you think it is the incorrect master cylinder mate?

I have messaged mick and will follow it up later. ?

 

[vroomtshh]

does your master cylinder have 2 or 4 ports?