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Subtle Install...



  172 cup
After advice from the CS.net audio gurus

List of wants:

Headunit in glove box (already have the unit nice kenwood with 4by50watt output)
Good sound quality up front (never take passengers)
100% stock appearance (nothing cut to fit eg parcel shelf)
Plenty bass
No unnecessary weight
£300 to spend including fitting somewhere as audio electrics = a massive NO for me.

What do I need? I know what i think but I don't know much tbh!
 
  a low one
how come you want a headunit in the glove box dude, isnt that slightly impractical?

cant help you with all off it, but for the bass maybe look into the under seat subs? hidden underneath the passenger seat so it wont be seen and will get some nice bass.

or a flase floor in the boot, have the sub and amp underneath it with PC fans?

upgrade your door speakers, theres plenty around and will only depend on budget and quality which you buy.

Hope this helps a bit
 
  172 cup
Standard headunit in the dash, just looks like a radio in a 1.2. Would probably blank it over though once the new ones fitted :)
 
For better sound quality don't you want to plug the ipod in via usb(if the head unit is compatible) and if that happens then its easier to just use the headunit in the middle? With a removable fascia. Also how subtle are you after, will havin a sub and amp in the boot hidden by parcel shelf not be enough?
 
  Stripped yozza'd cup
just buy an oem looking head unit.... I would strongly advise against putting it in the glove box.

For the speakers, if you want decent bass out of door speakers, they need to be amped, sealed well and dynamated. Otherwise you'll have lots of rattles and vibrations and s**t sound quality.

I HATE under seat subs. They're not even close to as good as a decent 10" built into to side of the boot.... it will take up next to no room and look classy if done well.

I would also advise buying some rear speakers, it will sound odd just running on fronts. They can be crappy coaxials running on HU power, just to provide some rear fill and pull the sound stage back a wee bit.

£300 for all of that is asking a bit much really. I would start with some decent, well fitted components in the front, leave the standards in the rear. Have the fronts amped and leave a spare channel (or two, depending on the amp chosen) to run a sub later.
 
  172 cup
I already have 2x400watt amps in the loft and a pair of 10" subs in boxes which I could get DIY with and fit in the side of the boot I guess.

Why is the headunit in the glovebox a bad idea? Its just for security really as badges etc are constantly getting pinched off my car.
 
  172 cup
For better sound quality don't you want to plug the ipod in via usb(if the head unit is compatible) and if that happens then its easier to just use the headunit in the middle? With a removable fascia. Also how subtle are you after, will havin a sub and amp in the boot hidden by parcel shelf not be enough?

My HU im planning on fitting has a removeable fascia, a USB input and IPod hardwired in (which is the option I'll be taking)

Sub in the boot is an option, wanted to avoid the clutter/weight tbh and i thought there might have been a better option out there through a good combination of speakers/setup.
 
  a low one
door speakers will never better a sub mate. having a sub isnt going to ruin the performance on your car, there not that heavy lol
 
  172 cup
door speakers will never better a sub mate. having a sub isnt going to ruin the performance on your car, there not that heavy lol

Not about ruining performance buddy, my hefty frame does that! Rear of the car sits low, I avoid carrying ANY weight in the back as it causes rubbage.

It appears that taking the subs out their current boxes and fitting them neatly in the boot may be an idea, that's something I can manage!

Brands to choose for door speakers? I used JL audio in the past and they seemed good...
 
  a low one
how low are you? in terms of mm?

the subs need to be in the boxes mate for them to correctly produce the sound iirc. you can build your own sub box though to the correct dimensions
 
  Stripped yozza'd cup
you'll never get the same low end punch out of door speakers, but they can be very very good if done well.....
I'd start with this, you may find you're happy with it.

JL audio are good, I'm a fan of DLS.
I'm guessing from what you've said that you're more interested in volume than SQ?

What amps are they that you have?
 
  172 cup
you'll never get the same low end punch out of door speakers, but they can be very very good if done well.....
I'd start with this, you may find you're happy with it.

JL audio are good, I'm a fan of DLS.
I'm guessing from what you've said that you're more interested in volume than SQ?

What amps are they that you have?

Nah I want it to sound good more than loud, been through the door rattling loadsa speakers and bass phase back when I was 17! Hence asking advice and checking from many sources before I spend the pennies.

They are MTX amps I think, used to run em bridged with two subs in the boot of an old car.

Does the size of the box really matter, as if I was to "adapt" it it would be pretty snug as the current boxes are Mahoosive.
 
  a low one
the current boxes may be too big for the speakers, ive got a 12" sub in a flase floor in my boot and the box is only 10" deep at a guess, and that was built to the correct spec for the speaker.
 
  Stripped yozza'd cup
the size of the sub enclosure is EVERYTHING. Can be the difference between it sounding fantastic or utter s**te.

If you want SQ, I would really suggest putting your money into a very good amp and some very good components. You'll be amazed at how good some properly installed door speakers can sound. You can get excellent punchy mid-bass out of some nice components. The only thing you miss out on is the real arse shaking lows, just due to the lack of size of the cone compared to a sub.

Have a look at JL audio components and either JL audio or DLS amps. Both can be found pretty regularly on fleabay. Then take it to get it fitted.
 
  172 cup
C2-600 JL Audios are looking like a good choice to me, or can the doorcards have the C2-650 6.5" versions fitted without butchering the door. I assume one of my amps will be sufficient to run the components as with dynamat + fitting im already + £300 and can't really afford one!

I might go for a sub in the spare wheel well at some point as I've already got most of what I need. Is there any need to upgrade rear speakers still?
 
  Stripped yozza'd cup
Rear speakers are only for a bit of fill, doesnt really matter. Just get some decent coaxial speakers and stick them in the standard holes, running off the HU.

Not sure about your amp tbh.... MTX make SPL stuff really, not SQ. I'm guessing they're two channel? Any ideas on RMS power per channel?
 
  172 cup
Well the "less than £300" failed miserably, why have I got to be so impulsive!

£500 later with more and better equipment than I was intending on buying and my install should be sounding sweet in a couple of weeks.

Front door speakers, new amp, top grade wiring, fibreglass kit for the spare wheel well and I'm a happy skint fella. Once it's installed I'll get a few pics up but it hopefully won't be showing much lol.
 


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