Replacing the clutch on a 1.4RT?

[donsrno1]

Is it fairly easy to DIY changing the clutch on a Mk1 1.4RT?

Is it possible to change the clutch by just moving the gearbox to the side? I was looking today and there isn't much room for the gearbox to move across but was under the impression that you could just move it to the side?

Would I need a hoist of any sort when doing the job and if not how can I support the gearbox when removing it so as not to have it resting it's weight on the input shaft?

I haven't done any job like this before on the car so just want to check it wouldn't be beyond my abilities but from what I have been told it's not too difficult - just a bit fidly and time consuming.

Thanks.

 

[edde]

yep pull the box to the side undo the hub nut and pull the box out.
Its DIY in the way if you want to try and rewire a house its not impossible just follow the manual but it can be annoying.

 

[donsrno1]

Do you just mean removing the driveshafts from the hubs and leaving them connected to the box? I hadn't thought of doing that - I was thinking of removing the driveshafts from the box itself.

 

[RSTuning]

If you remove the 5th speed cover and drop both N/S subframe bolts slightly it will give plenty of clearance or room to take the full box out.

Paul

 

[donsrno1]

damn, I was hoping I wouldn't have to drop the subframe. Is it reasonably easy to drop the subframe?

And also, what do you mean by 5th speed cover? Is that the bit at the very end of the gearbox?

 

[donsrno1]

BTT, theres got to be a few more on here who have done this?

 

[RSTuning]

Sorry mate, yes the bit on the end! It is usually black unless someone has painted it. As for the subframe this is a piece of piss. Just undo the two N/S bolts (don't take them out tho). There is also a stabiliser bar which you will need to remove from the inner wing. Just make sure you use your common sense and ensure everything is out of the way and you should have no probs. Be careful with the 5th speed tho as there is a plastic clip which is easy to break.

Paul

 

[RSTuning]

Also make sure you support the engine with a jack and wood chock so you are able to lowerand raise as required.

Paul

 

[donsrno1]

cheers mate.


Is it simple enough to just support the box sufficiently by hand when removing it or do you need some sort of jack under the box when removing.

What about putting it back on - do you need a jack/hoist to support it or is it possible to do it just by hand?

Edde - what do you mean by saying just undo the hub nut - do you mean on the drivers side so that you just leav that driveshaft in the box but remove it from the hub?

 

[edde]

Is it simple enough to just support the box sufficiently by hand when removing it or do you need some sort of jack under the box when removing.

What about putting it back on - do you need a jack/hoist to support it or is it possible to do it just by hand?

Edde - what do you mean by saying just undo the hub nut - do you mean on the drivers side so that you just leav that driveshaft in the box but remove it from the hub?

You need a jack on the exhaust or similar its very heavy you'd never hold it up yourself.
You can move the box back into place by hand its heavy though 'd end up using a jack as I'm a weekling.
Hut nut = the nut in the center of the hub which holds the driveshaft on.
You can leave the drivesfat on yes and pull the hub out as far as possible if you wnat.

 

[donsrno1]

You need a jack on the exhaust or similar its very heavy you'd never hold it up yourself.
You can move the box back into place by hand its heavy though 'd end up using a jack as I'm a weekling.
Hut nut = the nut in the center of the hub which holds the driveshaft on.
You can leave the drivesfat on yes and pull the hub out as far as possible if you wnat.

Thanks mate - I thought it would be too heavy to do by hand but wanted to see what others who have done the job before did. I'll need to find myself another trolley jack as I'll need one to supports the engine.

When you say jack on the exhaust - do you mean the gearbox? why would I need to jack up the ehxaust?????

I know what the hub nut is but just wondered about how you advised doing it. I'll probably just remove the drive shafts from the box as that way there won't be anything connected to it - which means less things I can break LOL.

Thanks.

 

[edde]

Thanks mate - I thought it would be too heavy to do by hand but wanted to see what others who have done the job before did. I'll need to find myself another trolley jack as I'll need one to supports the engine.

When you say jack on the exhaust - do you mean the gearbox? why would I need to jack up the ehxaust?????

I know what the hub nut is but just wondered about how you advised doing it. I'll probably just remove the drive shafts from the box as that way there won't be anything connected to it - which means less things I can break LOL.

Yes sorry your right gearbox not exhaust, I must have been tired.
You could always jack the engine up and when you remove the gearbox mount lower the engine onto a block of wood etc and use the jack then to hold the box up.
I'd personally remove the whole hut or hub and suspension strut on the passenger side. On the other then remove the driveshaft pin and pull that side driveshaft out the way with the hub.
Once the driveshaft on the drivers side is free then remove the drivers side driveshaft (drain the gearbox oil as the passenger side driveshaft hold this oil in). Then jack the box up and remove it.
There a list of other bits to remove though get a Haynes manual as that will list them all with pictures.

 

[donsrno1]

Thanks mate. I'll be removing the struts on both sides anyway (wait for another post soon, LOL) as I'm going to be fitting lowering springs whilst doing the clutch anyway. I've got a haynes and i've had a look throught the job but wanted to find out from some people who have done the job themselves.

Did you find you had to drop the subframe edde, or was there enough room without doing that? Did you totally remove the box from the engine bay?

 

[edde]

I didn't do mine I watch a Renault mechnaic do mine as I'm lazy plus its a Williams so a bigger engine with the same room.
I'd chnage the bottom end ball joint ie the bit which matches the hub to the bottom suspension bar as this does make a difference to handling feeling.
The mechanic didn't drop the subframe though.
If your nearing anw camblet time I'd be tempted to take the whole engine out chnage all the fluids check for rust do the cambelt etc as its much easier doing these things with the engine out.

 

[donsrno1]

When the guy did yours how did he get enough room to move the box across - did he remove the arch liners?

Cambelt was done about 3,000 miles ago so thats not needing done and also I don't have any way of getting the engine out and not really anyone who knows much about cars to help so I'll just try and get it all done with the engine in. I really need to clear out my garage though as theres no room for my car at the moment, lol.

I was thinking of changing the ball joints anyway as I put on a second hand one when I had to change the hub a while ago as the gaitor on it had split (was going to the scrappy anyway and needed the car sorted soon) but I want to replace it. I think I'll just buy a couple of them off of ebay as they are only £6.50 on there. Hope it's easier than last time though - I tried to get one of the bolts off for 2 hours in the dark but the bugger wouldn't move and my hacksaw didn't have any blades - a mate and an angle grinder was called in in the end :evil: .

 

[edde]

When the guy did yours how did he get enough room to move the box across - did he remove the arch liners?

I was thinking of changing the ball joints anyway as I put on a second hand one when I had to change the hub a while ago as the gaitor on it had split (was going to the scrappy anyway and needed the car sorted soon) but I want to replace it. I think I'll just buy a couple of them off of ebay as they are only £6.50 on there.

New ones are £10 or so anyway.
My car doesn't have arch liners but I think you would need to remove them to push the box out.

 

[donsrno1]

OK, thanks for all the help mate. I'll probably bring this back up when I start the job and f**k something up lol. I don't even have to replace the clutch TBH as it's the release bearing thats needing done but if I'm taking the box off I suppose I might as well do the clutch.

Does anyone know how much a clutch would be from renault? How much are they elsewhere?

I might get one off ebay for about £40 but I know that with the renault ones you get a clutch alignment tool as well which might be worth it and also it's a genuine renault part so I would imagine would be a bit better.

 

[donsrno1]

One more thing actually - what do I need ot use to get the pin out of the drivers side driveshaft? I presume that I would need to buy a new one for re-fitting the clutch?

Are there any other things that need to be replaced when putting everything back together?

 

[edde]

I'd say a new clucth shound be under £65 I think thats about the list price for the Williams one. I'd always go for a Renault official one its so much better I had a performance one from a famous company and it cracked round the springs plus it was massivly heavy. Even though my cars tunned the stock one is lighteron the foot, better made and never been any toruble even with the extra power.
Just use a screwdriver to get the roll pin out. I'd get a new pin though whilst your at it as its only 10p and if you do break the pin (you can easily do this particulaly if the driveshaft hasn't been put back in correctly. Its a pain having to go back to Renault for one.
Change the gearbox oil for new stuff as well.

 

[donsrno1]

Thanks, again. I'll just use a screwdriver for the pin. I'm planning on replacing:

• Driveshaft pin
• Gearbox Oil
• Hub to strut bolts
• Balljoints

Can't really think of what else to replace at the moment. I've decided I', going to keep my car for a while yet (was going to sell) so I want to et everything done properly.

I've noticed recently when it's been really cold that I think the clutch is slipping, when it does slip does it almost feel like one huge flat spot?

The reason is that the revs climb but not all that quick, but there is no power as they climb, and I'm not sure if it's just that the engine is cold and doing this for some reason or the clutch slipping?