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Take top dash off.. remove headlight height adjuster panel, remove 2 screws underneath, remove the two screws above dials, remove wires, take speedo cable out.
Big bulbs just twist out, replace bulb, put back in. Then do the above in reverse. 10min job!
Blue bulbs wont work, though - the dials have an orange lense to them.. so it comes out brown - red would work, Id imagine!