Power!!! (induction kit)

[jon_d_h]

Hi

I have recently bought a clio 182, it has a itg carbon induction kit but when I put my foot down, it makes more noise than go anywhere. There is a cold air feed pipe that could be fed somewhere but I cant see where it will fit. Could the traction control cause it to take of slower?

Is there anything I can do?

Cheers

 

[StevenW]

LOL! sorry to say but an induction kit won't make you're car noticeably faster

 

[jon_d_h]

Yes, I know, it came on the car and Im not sure if its restricting the air without the cold air pipe fitted.

 

[sammyhale22]

Replace it with a 91-97 Espace 2.9 V6 RT airbox, they are about £60 From renault and the best airbox setup for these engines.

 

[jon_d_h]

Sounds like an idea. Have you or has anyone got a photo of one fitted to a clio? Also, why are they the best for my engine?

Cheers

 

[Aluco]

There loads of threads on them you can probably find them with a search as I don't know enough about them to inform you

 

[Lagerlout]

Replace it with a 91-97 Espace 2.9 V6 RT airbox, they are about £60 From renault and the best airbox setup for these engines.

That's bulls**t.

Unless you're planning on modding the car further you'd be better off sticking with a panel filter in the standard airbox. And modification to the air intake alone is never going to make a massive difference on these cars.

The ITG Maxogen is the best available. I had one (with inlets/remap/decat/zorst) and when I took it off and replaced it with the standrad setup it pulled much less at higher revs and felt strangled. Don't listen to all the "home made" maxogen b****cks. It's for people who are too tight or poor to buy a Maxogen.

 

[smitchell1]

At £300 the maxogens are quite expensive but the next best thing I found is the standard air box with uprated panel filter, removed the accoustic valve and the top CAF, JMS Tuning have been doing development on this issue and this seems to get the better gains over the induction kits (apart from a maxogen)

Any gains from an IK etc are always very minimal anyway!!

 

[Pauldredge]

i'll buy it off you for a tenner?

 

[Stava]

why does taking the top caf off make a difference, aren't you going to suck in hot air from the around the engine?

 

[smitchell1]

Cos once you remove the accoustic valve and that CAF pipe you have the coolest part of the engine flowing air straight into the air box from down in the wheel arch.

Its just what they reckon gives the best gain other than a maxogen from what they have tested??? Mine def pulls harder but then it does have matched inlets, remap, panel filter etc.

Try it and see what you think?

 

[Stava]

yeah will do this weekend mate, cheers. Was thinking of getting a bmc cda and using my foglight to mount a caf.

I'll see how the acoustic valve removal goes.

 

[smitchell1]

Yeah there is a guide in the guide section on how to do it, takes 15mins or so.

You'l get a bit of induction roar from taking the CAF out aswell.

Let us know what you think.

 

[Mark One]

sorry. So you say it has an ITG carbon IK?

Thats a maxogen? Correct me if im wrong?

 

[Stava]

cant find the guide to remove the acoustic valve, dont suppose you can give me the link can you?

 

[Jonny1*2]

Yeah there is a guide in the guide section on how to do it, takes 15mins or so.

You'l get a bit of induction roar from taking the CAF out aswell.

Let us know what you think.

Think its on the cliotrophy forum

sorry. So you say it has an ITG carbon IK?

Thats a maxogen? Correct me if im wrong?

Sounds like it to me. I'll take it off you for a fiver if so

 

[Jonny1*2]

http://cliotrophy.co.uk/forum/viewto...valve&start=60

 

[Stava]

cheers guys

 

[Gstar2006]

What's the top CAF look like and where's the info on suggesting should be removed?!?

As for people telling the OP to ditch his Maxogen in favour of a V6/espace setup!?!? WTF. That setup was thought up in an attempt to copy the ITG solution.

 

[Jonny1*2]

which top caf you on about? the standard box?

 

[smitchell1]

Yeah the standard airbox the CAF that comes out of the side of the airbox is the one you want to take off.

Seach "accoust valve removal" and it should bring up a link from cliotrophy.net

 

[Shotgunsjay]

waste of time and money

 

[jon_d_h]

sorry. So you say it has an ITG carbon IK?

Thats a maxogen? Correct me if im wrong?

Yes, that what Ive got. It came on the car when I bought it. So you would recomend leaving this on? I would have though that for the price paid for it, It would be better than standard. I have a CAF pipe with it but is not fitted and was wontering if it would be worth fitting or not?

Cheers

 

[Tom@JMS]

In a nutshell:

The advantages you will see from expensive Induction kits are nearly non existent, in some cases like a Viper the kits can be very detrimental! The most cost effective option is the ITG panel filter dropped in the standard box - done. One of the best aspects of this is that it is life long - you will never need to buy another panel filter again aside from cleaning it once in a while.

The next part of the equation is to remove the acoustic valve, a limiting valve that was designed to reduce engine noise to comply with Swiss regs IIRC.

You can remove the valve & leave the cold air feed (although it is very poor and often very narrow near the airbox where it is bent past the battery) so you can also replace this with a neoprene feed down to the same location as the acoustic valve was once positioned. Some people mount this in the fog light hole/front grill for a direct feed, but of course you can then run into all sorts of problems with water ingress etc, so not really worth the risk for such a minimal (if any) increase in power.

The last reason why people buy kits such as the Simota Aeroform is to gain that induction roar, this noise can be obtained in a similar fashion in the 1*2s by just removing the right hand CAF (looking in the bay from the front of the car) from the standard box completely, the difference between having the feed & not is minimal, and the airbox will generate a much throatier note as a result.

Removing the feed also takes the acoustic valve out of the equation so there is no need to remove it (unless your a weight saving freak lol)

Hope that helps.

 

[smitchell1]

^^^^^^ Well put Tom, i was getting there!!!! lol

 

[jon_d_h]

Ok cheers for the advice.

I think I will leave the ITG on for now. With the ITG on, will the accustic valve already be removed as was it part of the standard air box which has been removed?

Cheers

 

[Stava]

Cheers pal, I think I'll put the money towards some r888's instead.

 

[smitchell1]

If the CAF isnt there the prob but if it is then possibly not as it sits down by the horn, best way to find out is take the wheel off and peel back the arch liner and if its there you'll see a big black valve unit sitting above the horn!!

 

[Jonny1*2]

In a nutshell:

The advantages you will see from expensive Induction kits are nearly non existent, in some cases like a Viper the kits can be very detrimental! The most cost effective option is the ITG panel filter dropped in the standard box - done. One of the best aspects of this is that it is life long - you will never need to buy another panel filter again aside from cleaning it once in a while.

The next part of the equation is to remove the acoustic valve, a limiting valve that was designed to reduce engine noise to comply with Swiss regs IIRC.

You can remove the valve & leave the cold air feed (although it is very poor and often very narrow near the airbox where it is bent past the battery) so you can also replace this with a neoprene feed down to the same location as the acoustic valve was once positioned. Some people mount this in the fog light hole/front grill for a direct feed, but of course you can then run into all sorts of problems with water ingress etc, so not really worth the risk for such a minimal (if any) increase in power.

The last reason why people buy kits such as the Simota Aeroform is to gain that induction roar, this noise can be obtained in a similar fashion in the 1*2s by just removing the right hand CAF (looking in the bay from the front of the car) from the standard box completely, the difference between having the feed & not is minimal, and the airbox will generate a much throatier note as a result.

Removing the feed also takes the acoustic valve out of the equation so there is no need to remove it (unless your a weight saving freak lol)

Hope that helps.

nicely put mate. i've got a v6 box i'm toying with putting on, but not expecting gains from it. More noise change and an bigger air feed. Might not bother though. Is the standard box and itg filter ok for when you're looking at increasing power and remap? I know filter can make a difference when you start to tune.

 

[Tom@JMS]

nicely put mate. i've got a v6 box i'm toying with putting on, but not expecting gains from it. More noise change and an bigger air feed. Might not bother though. Is the standard box and itg filter ok for when you're looking at increasing power and remap? I know filter can make a difference when you start to tune.

The standard box and ITG panel filter is the most cost effective option, compliments the remaps but doesn't cost the earth. That's why we include it in our basic Stage 1 tune with the Group N remap.

The v6 airbox is another option, especially on cups as you can route the CAF to the space in the upper grill where the aricon sits in the 182s. It uses larger feeds and is just as effective as the standard box, however the general theme is that people just do not realise that the standard box is a very effective designout of the factory!

 

[Stava]

where do you get your itg filters from and how much?

 

[smitchell1]

ITG will cost about £40 ish????

 

[Stava]

where from pal?

 

[smitchell1]

Ktec do them and we get discount there so I reckon you'll get it for £35??

Im running a K&N panel in mine, with matched inlets, remap, the air box mods stated above and ss zorst and its brilliant, no different really to ITG that i can tell and you can get them in most tuning shops.

 

[clio_luke]

In a nutshell:

The advantages you will see from expensive Induction kits are nearly non existent, in some cases like a Viper the kits can be very detrimental! The most cost effective option is the ITG panel filter dropped in the standard box - done. One of the best aspects of this is that it is life long - you will never need to buy another panel filter again aside from cleaning it once in a while.

The next part of the equation is to remove the acoustic valve, a limiting valve that was designed to reduce engine noise to comply with Swiss regs IIRC.

You can remove the valve & leave the cold air feed (although it is very poor and often very narrow near the airbox where it is bent past the battery) so you can also replace this with a neoprene feed down to the same location as the acoustic valve was once positioned. Some people mount this in the fog light hole/front grill for a direct feed, but of course you can then run into all sorts of problems with water ingress etc, so not really worth the risk for such a minimal (if any) increase in power.

The last reason why people buy kits such as the Simota Aeroform is to gain that induction roar, this noise can be obtained in a similar fashion in the 1*2s by just removing the right hand CAF (looking in the bay from the front of the car) from the standard box completely, the difference between having the feed & not is minimal, and the airbox will generate a much throatier note as a result.

Removing the feed also takes the acoustic valve out of the equation so there is no need to remove it (unless your a weight saving freak lol)

Hope that helps.

well said mate. that is the same setup as i am running on mine. standard box, itg pannel filter, no top caf, no acoustic valve.

also, removing the acoustic valve when the top caf is removed will allow more air to circulate, due to the acoustic valve not blocking airflow from the wheel arch vents. very small amount but i thought i would say it anyway.

 

[ben_p]

Why are people removing cafs and fitted panel filters to get 1-2hp!. All the time and effort for no gain, I dont think there is much gains to be had (that you would notice) unless your spending HUGE amounts of cash when going down the NA route!

I learnt the hard way! tuning clios on a budget sucks, you get no gain! I just spent 4.5k on getting a extra 20-25hp! Which on the road is nothing! I wish i had left it at 220hp lol!, maybe its myself i need to pretch too!

 

[smitchell1]

Ouch thats a lot of cash!!!!

Maybe its just wishfull thinking but i think mine def pulls better with whats stated done, but you need to compliment it with inlets, remap to get the best out of it.

 

[ben_p]

Yeah, In the real world 5-10 hp is not much at all! I d be amazed if you could notice it on the road!
The sound is nice mind, but I think people spend £300 on a ITG etc and maybe feel a bit disapointed then end up putting inlets, remap etc chasing 185-190hp! But guess we all just waste cash on cars! Better than coke!

 

[Tom@JMS]

Why are people removing cafs and fitted panel filters to get 1-2hp!. All the time and effort for no gain, I dont think there is much gains to be had (that you would notice) unless your spending HUGE amounts of cash when going down the NA route!

Its a relatively cheap upgrade, on 4.5k & 25 bhp you spent £180 per bhp!

With a panel filter you spent £40 per bhp, even if you only get 1

 

[ben_p]

lol