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My Trip to Antarctica



dk

  911 GTS Cab
Well as you might or might not know, i went to Antarctica in December, did a 2 week cruise with a stop off in Buenos Aires on the way and way back.

It was an amazing time and like living the frozen planet.

I took thousands of photos, so its taken me ages to go through them, here are a few from the first few days.

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Buenos aires from our hotel, very nice city

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Ushuaia, the southern most city in the world and the starting point for the cruise across Drakes Passage, which is supposed to be the roughest stretch of sea in the world also.

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This was our ship for the duration, a brand new giant yacht in effect, small for a cruise liner, but very luxurious, called L'Austral, and it had an identical sister ship (which we met up with during the trip) called Le Boreal. I've been on a 3 day mini cruise on a P&O liner to Belgium, but this was full on 10 days at sea.

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The cabin was very nice, really modern, lots of leather, big LCD screen with on demand movies, GPS charted maps and cameras on the bow and stern you could watch. Was the nicest cabin i have seen on a cruise liner before, and this was the most basic one, had a lovely balcony too and large windows which was nice.

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The boat had a swimming pool, but seeing as we wear heading to the southern ocean and to lots of snow, i didn't get to use it, which was a shame, especially as it looked so nice (well it was when they filled it up which they hadn't in this pic as the crossing back to land had been really bad and they lost half the water) with the sun out and bright blue sky.

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We left land with amazing rather, which we hoped would continue as we entered the Drake, the voyage before had experienced terrible seas, and while we secretly wanted a bit of action, we really didn't want to be ill all the time! Even so, i took some Sturgeon tablets to help keep me from being effected, although they had another side effect unfortunately.....

The crossing would take a day and a half, which was our chance to get acquainted with the boat, our new gear and have a safety drill etc. We were given a life jacket for on the boat, and one for the land, which was much smaller and less restrictive etc.

It was a french boat, and as such, lots of french onboard, the captain was french, but also spoke very good english. We were split into 4 groups, which were pretty much our english group (there were 50 of us on the trip from my company), a french group, and 2 groups of Chinese. To sail us safely out of the estuary from the mainland we had a local pilot, who left the boat via a tug just before we entered the sea.

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this was pretty much the last time we saw darkness like this for 10 days, the further south we got, the lighter it would stay at night, and at midnight it was still light for a fair few days.

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It was a fairly quiet first day as we all felt a little sea sick and those of us who took tablets tried to hold in the diarrhoea in! I stopped taking them as that was worse than feeling ill. You were fine while lying down, but standing up was weird, i remember after the first night crossing, i got up, felt fine, and then got in the shower with the boat rocking, and it just hit me, felt terrible, had to go and lie down again. There was a piano onboard, which a member of our group liked to play, and he was surprisingly good.

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link to video if you are interested http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_knight/6826547493/

We also had to take wellington boots for the landings, this is because we would be transported to land by zodiacs (big rubber dingys) and these would get close but we would still have to step into 10 inches plus of water getting off the boats. We also had to clean our boots, as they are very strict in antarctica that nothing enters or leaves the land, you need to be clean of any possible germs or matter you could leave there, like dirt on your boots. When leaving the boat or coming back we needed to wash our boots in disinfectant, and weren't allowed to remove anything from the land, and couldn't leave any rubbish etc. Antarctica is managed by a treaty of countries, no-one actually owns the area, although many would like to. We had seminars and briefings in the theatre onboard about all the wildlife there etc. Was very interesting and informative.

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This was an exciting moment, as we had now crossed drakes passage and had entered into the area around the south shetland islands (interesting fact, these islands are at the same latitude as the shetland islands (above the UK) but to the south instead, Shetland are 60 degrees north, south shetland 62 degrees south) we saw our first iceberg, at the time we thought it was huge (pictured is about half of it), but we soon learnt that these things can be as big as towns!

They are amazing colours too, a lot bluer than i thought, and its all to do with the amount of oxygen in the water i believe. Also, their age, some of them are thousands of years old! They can go miles under the water too, the majority of them are below the water, but if you watched frozen planet, you know that anyway.

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Anyway, this brings us up to the end of the crossing of the drake and our crossing into antarctic waters on our way to our first landing on Paulet Island, where there would be a colony of Chinstrap penguins, which was very exciting to finally come face to fare with a Penguin!

I'll update this thread with the pics from the next few days and continue the story if people wish me to continue. I might just be being very boring, I know it won't be to everyones taste, but I think it might have some interesting parts, and some very interesting pictures coming up, different types of penguins, seals, whales and an active volcano which is also an ex whaling station with some lovely abandoned buildings and equipment after the volcano erupted and drove them out.
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
guess as this is a photography thread, i should really talk about the camera too!

I had a Canon 50D, which i upgraded for the trip, to a 7D. Absolutely love the AF points on the 7D, real step up!

I took a few lenses with me, my favourite lens, the 70-200 f4L, and i had hired a 1.4x converter too, and then my 10-22 wide angle, and my 17-55 IS f2.8, which is also a cracking lens.

I used all free in anger tbh, got some great shots with the 10-22 which i would have struggled with not having it, although i was a bit worried with all that water and ice around, mainly of dropping it in the sea with all the zodiac trips we did, then falling over in the snow and dropping it, and just generally getting it wet. But i was ok in the end, i only fell over once and my lens hood saved me, it did sleet one day which made it very challenging, especially as we were walking into it! Someone gave me a lens plastic bag type thing with a pull cord at the lens end, was very useful actually, only cost a couple of quid apparently.

Anyway, was very happy with the new camera, got mostly keepers from the lens combo too, the only disappointing thing was the teleconverter, i felt it was softening the photos too much so i stopped using it after about day 3. Wish i hadn't bothered, but glad i hired it rather than purchasing it and wasting a load of money!
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
I was reading. Looking at pictures. Now you've basically cut it off :(

Chop chop with the rest, David.

FLOL, sorry, its taking me ages to do, and i thought if i waste hours on it and nobody cares and doesn't even read it, then its been a waste of time. So if people are genuinely interested in me continuing then i'll certainly make the effort!
 
  SQ5
Subscribing to this :)

Looks like an amazing trip and actually "knowing" the person taking the photos and getting your perspective on things makes it miles better than clicking on a random gallery on Flickr or similar.

Looking forward to more pictures DK
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
ok guys, glad some people are finding it interesting, its actually making me feel rather strange going over it all again, its going to be quite an emotional trip, i can't describe how amazing the experience is, i urge you, if you have even the slightest chance of going, you have to do it, it is so magical, the only downside is that i am not sure whether i am ever going to see anything as amazing ever again. I am so fortunate to have conquered the White Continent, i feel very privileged to have ticked this off my list, i really do. :)

Anyway, on with the story, so the next amazing event, was to actually set eyes on the antarctic peninsula, the continent is astoundingly huge, like seriously much bigger than you imagine. We spent 7 days travelling around it and we literally travelling around the tip which juts out, most of what we experienced were the islands around the tip, we actually made three continental landings i think, which was very special.

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This was our first view, admittedly its just another snow covered bit of land, but theres just something special knowing what it really is!

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since coming back and going through all the photos, i've found that my biggest hurdle, was actually my horizons, it is sooooo difficult to get them right when you're on a moving boat, and when the horizon is so obvious being that its always where the sea meets the sky or land, very difficult!

crazy coloured and shaped icebergs, were plentiful, loved the colours!

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only spotted the bird on the top of the right tip when i got back and looked through the photos

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heres where i spotted it!

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this is one of the many scientific stations littered around, some are active, some not, and this one is obviously an argentinian one with the flag on the roof.

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so once we had dropped the anchor, we were on to the first of many landings. We only got to do this one as we had such a good crossing over the drake, so this was a bonus trip! And what a bonus trip, introducing us to the chinstraps! So we would have a board in reception telling us the landing times for each group on each day, sometimes you were first, sometimes last, so they mixed it up. This sometimes benefited you, others it shafted you as you had a 7am landing after a night on the juice! As it never really got dark the day and night pretty much blended into one, and we would disembark whenever we had the chance. In the antarctic, the weather is very changeable very quickly(as i found out once!), and so they take every chance they get to make sure we get the best possible experience, and this was one of those times. So you'd get a warning over the tannoy that it was nearly your groups time, which meant getting your kit on. We were given these big red expedition coats, they were very warm, a bit too warm for me so i only wore mine on the first day and then went with the thinner one i had taken with me. Its actually surprisingly mild there at that time of year. I would wear slippers, t-shirt and shorts on deck, although i was probably the only one lol, i do like the cold though! Anyway, so we'd get the ski trousers, jacket and lifejacket on, then make our way to the back of the boat which was turned into a jetty. We could put our boots on at the last minute as we weren't allowed to wear them onboard because of the whole germ thing. So we'd then wash our boots and board the zodiacs, this was surprisingly easy, i was dreading that part, boarding a moving dingy in ice cold waters with 4k of camera equipment on me! They were very stable though, and there was about 10 per boat, 5 either side.

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The zodiacs were actually stored on the top of the boat, think there would be about 10 of them, so no real waiting around.

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this was the moment i walked ashore for the first time, the bags on the left are all the kit the expedition leaders would bring over first, they included loads of supplies, tents and other survival kit, in case people got stranded on the island from the weather coming in. Then the metal posts were the boot cleaning bristles and you'd hold on to the metal bars, this would need to be done just before you boarded the zodiac to go back.

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this was my first encounter with a penguin, they were so close, they must see plenty of weirdoes in red coats as they really weren't that bothered, and quite inquisitive at times. This is a chinstrap, for obvious reasons with the black band around its chin.

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there was also a rogue gentoo penguin, this is him just looking for his exit incase i look to hungry..... http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_knight/6831285651/

we saw the odd random boat shipwrecked, or left by explorers, probably been there for decades, maybe longer!

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so by now i've seen the odd penguin, but then i look around and i'm actually surrounded by them, they are up in the rocks, almost camouflaged.

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this was our clobber, ultra warm coat, and a very stylish life jacket, which were actually alright, would have been a right pain with a normal one, but with these minimal ones it was fine.

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then i just look to my right and the most amazing scene, dark and gloomy clouds with a bright whitey blue iceberg, chilling in the bay!

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so, by this point, I've worked out three important things about penguins.

1. They smell, really fishy and bad!
2. They are pretty noisy!
3. All the do is play all day, waddling up the slopes, and then sliding down on their bellies, so funny to watch!

heres a quick clip http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_knight/6831349669/

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i could literally just stand there watching them for hours!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_knight/6831365389/

hmmm, green stuff, have i just stumbled across their portapotty!!!!!

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this red on the track they are making, its some sort of organism, or plant life or something, got a picture later on i think.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_knight/6831409957/

here come the giants!

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more in a bit!
 

seb

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio trophy
Chop chop!

Was like "in on epic picture thread" :cool: then got to end of your post and was like "son am disappoint" :(

Hurry up with next post! :)
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
Chop chop!

Was like "in on epic picture thread" :cool: then got to end of your post and was like "son am disappoint" :(

Hurry up with next post! :)

Lol, give me a break, each post is taking an hour!

I personally think the pictures get better as they go, with the best ones being at the end ;)
 
  Megane GT
Glacial ice is blue because the OH bonds in the water absorb the red light end of the spectrum therefore you only see blue. They become a deeper blue the older they are as all air is forced out through freeze thaw so more light can be absorbed. :)

Excellent photos though. Looks like a really good trip, I'd like to go there myself.
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
Glacial ice is blue because the OH bonds in the water absorb the red light end of the spectrum therefore you only see blue. They become a deeper blue the older they are as all air is forced out through freeze thaw so more light can be absorbed. :)

Excellent photos though. Looks like a really good trip, I'd like to go there myself.

An expert, thanks for explaining, I was kind of right, just simplified it to myself ;)
 

eugegall

ClioSport Club Member
DK what do you do for work?

Amazing trip. If I could hand the sea sick i would do it. But im sure there would be people being sick all over the show.
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
DK what do you do for work?

Amazing trip. If I could hand the sea sick i would do it. But im sure there would be people being sick all over the show.

I am an IT consultant mate, working for an IT reseller, this is the half yearly sales trip and as I had good year I was voted to join them, so all expenses paid, I am extremely lucking to work where I do :)

Tbh, I never saw anyone being sick, I was never sick, people were either given these wrist band things or a patch behind their ear, both apparently worked, as did my sturgeon tablets, apart from the runny bum ;) 2000% worth it though for what you get to experience.
 
  Megane GT
An expert, thanks for explaining, I was kind of right, just simplified it to myself ;)

Thats quite alright. Im studying glaciers at the moment, thats the only reason I know that! :eek:
Can I be really cheeky and ask how much this trip cost?
 

Ben

ClioSport Club Member
Looks like you had a great time. I went on my first cruise last year and going again at the end of this month. I absolutely love them, I went on the Ventura which was huge!
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
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can't decide whether this is a good pic or just poor because he got in the way? thoughts?

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heres the dirty bugger by himself, this was not as dirty as they got though! he reminded me of happy feet!

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getting ready for takeoff!!!!

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this is known as a rookery in think, as in a group of penguins, or a rookery.

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think this is my favourite penguin pic for a canvas on my wall, the symmetry did it for me, thoughts?

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or maybe this one, can't decide between the two

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a bird, no idea what type sorry, I'm no bird watcher!

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home sweet home!

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when on the move, they can be quite fast at scooping themselves along!

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chickens/turkey feet? thats what they reminded me of.

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ok, something other than penguins ;) this is a tablet iceberg, these things are huge, way bigger than our boat, and are totally flat, they also go down a stupid number of meters.

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these were quite far in the distance, so not a great shot, but they were huge! this was very late at night too, hardly even dark.

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this was about as dar as it got, further into the trip it was even lighter

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who needs a fridge for ice cold water.........this was on the top deck.

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this pic of this iceberg has incredible definition in the ice

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so that kind of concluded our first day on the island, it was an evening landing and then iceberg fields well into the night.

Coming up in the next day, are adelie penguins, these are the smaller kind, and then the weather and ice showing what can happen if you don't react quickly.....
 

The Chubby Pirate

ClioSport Club Member
  Golf R
Very impressive mate, ive heard of that drake's passage, know a few guys that have sailed it - seemingly quite an experience in bad weather :(

That ship is very impressive indeed! Do you know any of her statistic's (Draft/Kw output etc?)
 
Great stuff. Much better reading it like this than looking at your Flickr pics (when you don't know what's going on 50 pictures of icebergs quickly merge into one!), keep the updates coming!

Any ideas what the tour was called or if any UK companies offer it up for us mere mortals? I'm guessing the cost would comfortably be "more than I could afford", but as once in a lifetime trips go...
 
Read all the way through. Photos and write up are really doing the trip justice :D I want to go lol! Top notch snaps as well. It looks like such an incredible landscape and I really can't compare it to anything I have ever seen before outside of TV clips.

On a side note, when you mentioned the worry of the Zodiac's and the camera gear you are in fact very safe (not that I wouldn't sh*t bricks with a few £K's worth of glass on me). My cousin designs RIB's for another company and they are virtually un-tippable apparently. Safer than any speed boat, very strong and incredibly stable.
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
so the next morning i woke up, and we were one of the later groups, but we were anchored, so i took a look outside, this was brown bluff island we were landing on today, home of adelie penguins. So i looked at the shore, saw the chinese, then squinted a little and realised that all the black dots i could see were actually penguins, thousands of them!!!

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fancied a slush puppy at this point, blue raspberry!

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my first spot of one close up, and they were a lot smaller than the chinstrap, possibly even nearly half the size.

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to land us, there were helpers and their job was to stand in the ice cold sea for hours in a wet/dry suit helping people on and off the zodiacs, no thanks, now that would be cold!!! We would also get a brief from the naturalists (no, not naturists, no nudity here!) on what we were about to see, a warning to keep about 10 meters from the penguins, although if you were stood still and let them come to you, thats fine. The orange box was for short people like me ;)

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you might notice quite a bit of ice floating around at the moment, that comes into play later!

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lots and lots of them

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these guys were the males, they were protecting the eggs.

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rather than explain this next hut, i'll post the plaque

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this reminds me of a mole for some reason

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busted!

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a couple of eggs which didn't make it :(

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is it me, or does that ice look more packed and as if its coming in to enclose us?

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i can't help but feel that he should have something sticking out down there rather than some pink flesh ;)

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trip onto the ice, oh, is that the ice now trapping me onshore?

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yep, definitely looks like theres a serious amount of ice between us and the boat now!

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this is getting worrying now

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ok, it was at this point that we were told we had to leave, the ice moving in was worrying everyone, and we had to change our landing location to further down the shore, so had to walk down to it. as were doing this, we saw penguins taking advantage of the extended land for them. In the background, you can see some zodiacs, they are stuck......

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so i'm busy taking pictures and fall behind, I'm taking a video of the penguins http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_knight/6832770645/ and then i get asked to move on, as i walk, i was past an ice shelf and literally after i get past it falls down, and it was a lot of ice and snow, if i had been 2 seconds later i would have been flattened!

so then i get to the where we are going to leave, and the ice is ridiculous, but they say we need to go, so i get on the zodiac, and we leave the shore, well try to and are straight away caught in ice. And its enclosing in on us. basically, we were trapped in this ice field for 45 mins while the other zodiacs tried to bash us a route though, was very cool, i actually enjoyed it, such an exciting day. We eventually made it back to the boat and everyone was on deck watching us after our little bumper car session.

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and it was just the expedition crew left onshore

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/david_knight/6832793029/

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ok, thats it for tonight, enough excitement for one day. i'll continue the story tomorrow assuming i haven't just bored people as its gone on longer than they expected ;)
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
Thats quite alright. Im studying glaciers at the moment, thats the only reason I know that! :eek:
Can I be really cheeky and ask how much this trip cost?

this particular trip was about £15k i think, thats what the company paid, but we did have 5* hotels in buenos aires etc, and we paid for unlimited drinks on the boat, and we drank a lot ;)

Very impressive mate, ive heard of that drake's passage, know a few guys that have sailed it - seemingly quite an experience in bad weather :(

That ship is very impressive indeed! Do you know any of her statistic's (Draft/Kw output etc?)

sorry i don't, but this is the website http://en.ponant.com/Ships/Le-Boreal 16 knots apparently, no idea if thats any good, apparently it has a strengthened hull but is not actually an ice breaker.

Great stuff. Much better reading it like this than looking at your Flickr pics (when you don't know what's going on 50 pictures of icebergs quickly merge into one!), keep the updates coming!

Any ideas what the tour was called or if any UK companies offer it up for us mere mortals? I'm guessing the cost would comfortably be "more than I could afford", but as once in a lifetime trips go...

loads of companies do it, we actually went with page & moy, the trips start around november time, you can do it for around 4-5k i think, maybe not quite as luxurious a boat as ours, but the same experience!

Read all the way through. Photos and write up are really doing the trip justice :D I want to go lol! Top notch snaps as well. It looks like such an incredible landscape and I really can't compare it to anything I have ever seen before outside of TV clips.

On a side note, when you mentioned the worry of the Zodiac's and the camera gear you are in fact very safe (not that I wouldn't sh*t bricks with a few £K's worth of glass on me). My cousin designs RIB's for another company and they are virtually un-tippable apparently. Safer than any speed boat, very strong and incredibly stable.
yeah, they told us this too, although we took it as a pinch of salt as we thought they just wanted us to be put at ease and not worry, much admit though, they did feel very stable, its just the fact that you are perched on the edge lol!
 
  RIP Dan
Brilliant David, worth the wait....just about ;-)

Some lovely pictures.

Next instalment please.
 
  Megane GT
this particular trip was about £15k i think, thats what the company paid, but we did have 5* hotels in buenos aires etc, and we paid for unlimited drinks on the boat, and we drank a lot ;)

Thats not too bad actually. That per person? I would pay that kind of money, although probably closer to 10 than 15.
I love that photo of the boat and then the solo penguin walking across the ice infront of it. And one of the landscape photos i could so see on my wall :p
And if youre on a boat, its standard practise to get bladdered 24/7, I do it every summer :D
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
Thats not too bad actually. That per person? I would pay that kind of money, although probably closer to 10 than 15.
I love that photo of the boat and then the solo penguin walking across the ice infront of it. And one of the landscape photos i could so see on my wall :p
And if youre on a boat, its standard practise to get bladdered 24/7, I do it every summer :D

Yes that was per person, there was 50 of us. All the photos are on flickr and free to download, I had some issues with some of them and habing the original size, but they are good for the biggest of canvases, I'm getting 2 done I think, a penguin one and seal one.

We paid £20 a day per person extra for all drinks I think, and told them that if they ran out of drink, we wouldn't pay any of it, as an incentive, as you can't pop down the offie out there. And they didn't run out.
 
  Mini Cooper S sport
Brilliant thread, I'm really enjoying it! Love all the penguin photos and videos, I'm insanely jealous that you did this. What an experience of a lifetime, I'd love to do that.

The colours in those icebergs is incredible, they're so BLUE.

This is definitely one of my favourite photos - put it on your wall:

6832795747_1b77117780_b.jpg


MORE!!!!

ps: my OH wants to know where you work and if you have any jobs hehe.

pps: this is the first thread I've ever subscribed to!
 

dk

  911 GTS Cab
Why thank you!

There are so many I want to put up, I just don't have the space or it would look like a gallery lol.

I had decided on the penguin symmetry as mentioned above, and then the elephant seal that was published in the metro, but the one above is a nice shot, just wish I had the space!

Oh and if he's technical, we are begging for IT engineers, and we are always employing sales people, but normally 20 year olds for sales lol. Softcat is one company that hasn't stopped recruiting over the 10 years I've been there, we have 10-20 people start every 3 months at least! I am very lucky, I know that.

We'll get on to gentoo penguins and whales tomorrow, and possibly the whaling station, that's my favourite, very eerie!
 


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