Mick / Fred / Danny - Anyone - Help

[-J-]

I wonder if anyone can help my dad out....

Has a 2005 1.2 8v Clio Campus

It wont start, but is throwing up all sorts of funny electrical symptoms.

Turning the key the dash lights up as normal but each time some lights go out and others dont.

For example the SERV and Airbag and ABS light will stay on one turn of the key, the next they will go out and just SERV will be on and the Immobiliser light will stay solid. Other times they all go out as expected and just leaves the battery, handbrake and STOP light on.

When you turn the key you get a single click from the starter and all the lights on the dash flash on and off (Holding the ignition on) and you can hear relays firing (Sounds like the Hazard lights are on)

Head lights work fine but central locking wont work, nor will electric windows (Well they did go down but didnt seem to have enough power to pull them back up)

We have checked Earth from Battery to Gearbox

Pulled the starter Motor out and had it running on the bench

Checked the battery and tried another

Tried the 'Small' relays in the fuse box (Swapped them off my 172)

Its almost as if there is not enough power running through the electrics to get things running.

Any of you helpful people give me some Ideas as we are stumped and looking like its going to need an expensive trip into the dealer.

 

[MartinR]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, Geneva, Swiss, SunSans-Regular]Wire loom normally rubs on the ecu bracket which causes the wires to break. The loom can also break where it passes over the box [/FONT]

 

[Beef-Mc]

That's only on the pre-facelift model so shouldn't effect the campus model.

 

[-J-]

That's only on the pre-facelift model so shouldn't effect the campus model.

It's not the face lift campus with the daft boot. It's 1*2 shape

 

[-J-]

Will check ECU wires for rubbing.

Where do you mean over the box?

 

[Dan519]

probably immobiliser/key transponder related, but well worth plugging in to check for fault codes.

The ecu loom rubbing issue is a 16v engine issue so shouldn't be relevent here.

 

[-J-]

probably immobiliser/key transponder related, but well worth plugging in to check for fault codes.

The ecu loom rubbing issue is a 16v engine issue so shouldn't be relevent here.

Cheers Danny, will have to get it on a flatbed and down to the stealer

Tried both keys to and no joy.

Proper pain, bloody things only done 10k since my dad got it new!

 

[hilldawg172]

Don't take it to the dealership!

 

[JakeyP]

Also try the metal bracket fuse on the top of the positive terminal on the battery, If it arks across you can kinda get the starter motor to click but not enough to turn it over... I had this problem before =)

 

[-J-]

Don't take it to the dealership!

I'm well aware of the dealer cost etc. unfortunately there are no specialists near me.

 

[-J-]

Just been out having a further poke around.

Seems rather than a constant power feed through the ignition circuit, it's 'pulsing'

 

[Addicted]

Dodgy earth or something?

 

[-J-]

Dodgy earth or something?

We checked the earth, all seems to be ok and the cable seems to be in good nick.

 

[MicKPM]

Just been out having a further poke around.

Seems rather than a constant power feed through the ignition circuit, it's 'pulsing'

Pulsing how? That sounds like a relay fault or a very badly corroded fuse

 

[-J-]

Pulsing how? That sounds like a relay fault or a very badly corroded fuse

When cranking using a length of cable with a bulb in the middle held across the starter (old skool style as our Fluke meter is at work) the bulb lights and goes out the repeats for the duration the ignition is on.

The 'brown relays in the fuse box were swapped with the ones off my 172, all the main fuses have been pulled and checked and cleaned contacts.

Wasn't able to test the other relays in the fuse box as they seem to be different to the ones RS on my 172.

 

[MicKPM]

Have you checked the main power supply wiring for signs of damage?

 

[-J-]

Have you checked the main power supply wiring for signs of damage?

As in the main cable from battery? Yes, have tried bypassing the fuse as well without any joy.

It's an odd one as every-time you turn the key something different happens on the dash, sometimes the door locking works, other times it won't ect.

 

[MicKPM]

I'm afraid I'm out of ideas then chap and would need to see it to be able to hit it.

Mick

 

[-J-]

I'm afraid I'm out of ideas then chap and would need to see it to be able to hit it.

Mick

Cheers Mick, got our Fluke meter home tonight so going to try and see if we can work out what's what.

 

[-J-]

Well we have got somewhere,

We had bench tested the starter off my sisters cars battery and figured the clios battery was ok as the charger said fully charged and the little light was green. Was also showing 12.36v on the fluke meter.

Tried bench testing the starter on the clios battery, few sparks but no spinning.

Swapped battery's over between cars and now the Clio will crank...

However the immobiliser light stays solid red when on ignition one, go to start and the car cranks for 10sec then cuts out, looks like the car has 'lost' the keys (central locking still works remotely).

Can you do anything to get the existing keys recognised by the car immobiliser again?

 

[Dan]

you have to do the locking unlock thing and also hold the inside button for the lock, theres a thread in here i think?

found it, i know its a ph1 setup but its the same for ph1 and 2 i think
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...c-your-central-locking-with-your-key-(new-key)

i also know thats for syncin a new key but it also worked for me when my batt died

 

[-J-]

Cheers, done a bit more reading and the immobiliser light staying solid but not shutting off apparently is not the car failing to pick up the keys and more likely to be a damaged wire in the loom between the ECU and UCH.

Guess I'm gonna have to strip back the loom for a look, the cars not cranking all the time either I've just found out 50/50 maybe.

 

[MarcoB]

Immobiliser wire is green.

 

[-J-]

Have given up on this now, Car left for Renault Watford this AM:

Just off to Tesco's to buy some KY

 

[-J-]

Dealer just called, good job I got the KY! ECU has packed up

Cars only done 15000 miles, new ECU just under £700.

 

[MicKPM]

F - Off... ECU packed up my arse - That's my personal, technical assesment of course.

Buy a used set from RenParts in that case and save yourself nearly £500 but personally, i'd get a second opinion.

Mick

 

[-J-]

F - Off... ECU packed up my arse - That's my personal, technical assesment of course.

Buy a used set from RenParts in that case and save yourself nearly £500 but personally, i'd get a second opinion.

Mick

According to the Service Bod who called this is what an RTE has advised is the issue, trouble with 2nd opinion is that it's already cost to have the car taken down, plus diagnosis so long as the ECU sorts the issue... If it doesn't I'll be kicking off big time.

Will also be wanting the old part back off them.

 

[MicKPM]

Okay so let's play along with this, what I call fantasy, and say the ECU is buggered... How have they arrived at this conclusion? Actually ask for the RTE and get him/her to answer you directly. I know for a fact that no dealership has the equipment nor the trained personnel to debug, decode and run simulation on an ECU. They're not allowed and even Virgin ecu's are all setup and configured automatically via CLIP/NRE via Renault NET.

I'm guessing they simply cannot connect to it or enter dialogue via CLIP and so obviously the ECU is buggered.

Then, say for some reason the ECU is finished (I'm indulging the fantasy now as I've only seen a handfull of actual dead ECU's in 12yrs and they've all been due to water ingress) what has caused it? I ask because if they fit a brand new unit and the same thing happens to that one guess what happens to the warranty on the new unit? #void

Seriously mate, I think you're being taken for a long walk up a short path and I'd urge you to get a second opinion as that's not small money you are talking about here especially for that car. Your car, your choice of course and as I said on page 1 I'd rally need to see it to say more properly but knowing the dealers and how they work a red light is flashing in my head over this one.

Mick

 

[Dan519]

I also call shenanigans

 

[-J-]

Well, just been to collect the car and all is well!

New ECU + programming seems to have done the trick.

Seems the ECU has been spiked, what the old man failed to inform me was the night he drive home from work he has let someone jump their car from his, then drive home and that was the last the car started.

I'm guessing whoever jumped the car from his shorted out the ECU. Either way it's working now and all is well.