LED conversion, complete list of LED bulbs please

[GrahamS]

I've been looking around the site for ages this evening and there isn't a complete list of the bulbs needed for the dash conversion. I'll put down what I know but if someone could help me fill in the blanks that would be brilliant. @McGherkin @MWright maybe you guys can help

Clocks (needle type)
10 plcc-2 (4 for display, 6 for needles)

Digital
4 plcc-2 for needles
4 plcc-4 for display

Update list display
4 plcc-4

Tuner list display
?

Climate control
28 LEDs but which types?

Manual heater control panel
?

Radio
?

Window switches
?

ESP/Cruise switch
?

Central locking button/rear window heater
?

 

[msremmert]

Unless you plan on doing it on a large scale, just cut the hassle out of your life and buy a kit from here.
http://www.crazyleds.co.uk/Clio-MK2-Full-SMD-LED-dash-conversion-kit..html

If you don't have climate control let them know and they'll send you bulbs instead. I've fitted a few of these kits to friends cars.
Hint* White LEDs with a white display looks best.

 

[GrahamS]

@msremmert I'm going to get them individually as it's a huge amount cheaper and I'm a cheapskate. No no! Red display! Like an Audi. I love my clocks

I'll try and take apart some components later to get the exact sizes of a few more bits

 

[GrahamS]

okay so this is what I've been able to establish

Clocks (needle type)
10 plcc-2 (4 for display, 6 for needles)

Digital
4 plcc-2 for needles
4 plcc-4 for display

Update list display
4 plcc-4

Tuner list display
?

Climate control
28 LEDs all plcc-2

Manual heater control panel
?

Radio
?

Window switches
3mm dome topped led although flat top is fine

ESP/Cruise switch
3mm dome topped with inline 420ohm resistor to allow 12v

Central locking button/rear window heater
3mm led dome topped, again flat is fine

this is a quick few pics on how the rear window demist comes apart. All these kind of switches are the same. Be careful you don't unsolder the whole piece of copper as it's rather easy to do. Being careful it takes about 10 minutes per LED replacement.

The circuit board then comes off the pins if you prise is very carefully.

Note which way round the LED is, cathode and anode. Compare it to your new ones as it's fairly obvious. If you mount it the wrong way it won't work. On the below pic you can see the resistor in the board which allows the LED to work with 12v. Only the cruise control (maybe esp too) doesn't have this so you have to add the resistor in (very bottom pic)

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Do you have any links for each blub mate?

Going to be changing mine to blue I think, to match my alpine head unit

 

[GrahamS]

@james24785 these are the 3mm ones I got http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161153730729?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
come with resistors and some free red leds too oddly.
Ebay or Farnell are the best places for the plcc-2 or plcc-4 smds

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Cheers mate

 

[Timmsy]

@GrahamS fancy giving mine a go some time I'm useless with wiring and soldering!

Got my heater control panel to go in and still not confident just swapping pins around

 

[Bensport172]

I may have to give this a go

 

[BoatNonce]

The manual heater control panel is T5 capless wedge IIRC, but the contacts are f**king awful so it's easier to use strips soldered directly onto the pins on the circuit board that the main electrical connector uses.

(Cheers @Chris_Beer )

@james24785 don't go blue. You'll regret it.

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

The manual heater control panel is T5 capless wedge IIRC, but the contacts are f**king awful so it's easier to use strips soldered directly onto the pins on the circuit board that the main electrical connector uses.

(Cheers @Chris_Beer )

@james24785 don't go blue. You'll regret it.

Why mate, too in your face?

 

[BoatNonce]

Looks like a chav's dream.

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Looks like a chav's dream.

I think you might be right tbh mate. Just thought it may match the blueness of alpine headunits slightly

 

[BGEarles]

Does anybody do this in the North West? Ideally local to the SK10 (Macclesfield, Cheshire) area [emoji4]

 

[BoatNonce]

I think you might be right tbh mate. Just thought it may match the blueness of alpine headunits slightly

I'm fairly sure you've seen the photos of mine. White FTW

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

I'm fairly sure you've seen the photos of mine. White FTW :smile:

I'll go through your project thread later mate

 

[Chris_Beer]

All in my progress thread chaps

Cheers

 

[GrahamS]

to finalise. Hope this if of someuse to people.

It can easily take half a day to do this.

My tips would be to use a flat blade soldering iron and cut off tiny piece of solder. Hold the SMD in place, put the tiny piece solder next to the joint and then use the iron, otherwise it just gets a bit messy and you end up melting SMDs or having huge chunks of solder. If some of the radio ones don't work it's because they are in grouped circuits e.g. if the smd under "1" isn't attached properly then "2" won't work either even if correctly attached.

Clocks (needle type)
10 plcc-2 (4 for display, 6 for needles)

Digital
4 plcc-2 for needles
4 plcc-4 for display

Update list display
4 plcc-4

Tuner list display
?

Climate control
28 LEDs all plcc-2 careful as two of the vent directional LEDs have the opposite polarity to the other 26.

Manual heater control panel
?

Radio
11 plcc-2 with contacts bent out as they solder on the other way

Window switches
3mm dome topped led although flat top is fine

ESP/Cruise switch
3mm dome topped with inline 420ohm resistor to allow 12v

Central locking button/rear window heater
3mm led dome topped, again flat is fine