Fitting new front shocks - advice please

[Sesqui89]

Hi all, bear with me here as I'm not an experienced mechanic 🙈

I recently acquired some cooksport springs and new cup shocks all round so am carrying out a suspension refresh on my car.

Have done the rears no worries.

Got the old shocks out of the front no problem and built the new shocks up using the cooksport springs and the old top mounts and rubber inserts as they seem like they're in decent enough condition. However, when it came to refitting one of the shocks, I couldn't get anywhere near lining up the bottom of it with the two 21mm bolt holes, even with the top strut mount attached again. The spacing is correct, it's just too low. It's like the shock needs to be manoeuvred upwards but it's already as high as it can go.

I'm pretty sure I've done up the top (17mm) nuts of the shocks as far as they will go as both shocks have the same amount of thread showing out of the top before attempting to refit to car (around 30mm). Is that correct? Or could it be that I need to compress the springs to tighten the nut further and effectively shorten the shock?

Am I missing anything really obvious here? If the shock can't go up any higher do I just need to force the brake disc & hub down until the holes line up? I've been pretty gentle with it as I don't want to f**k anything up around the driveshaft.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Daniel]

You need to get a long bar and lever the hub downwards enough to get one bolt in.

 

[DrR]

Both wheels jacked up?

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

You need to get a long bar and lever the hub downwards enough to get one bolt in.

This.

I got someone to push down on the hub until I could slide a screwdriver into one of the holes, and then used the screwdriver to lever the strut so that I could get a bolt in the other hole.

Oh and make sure both front wheels are off the ground

 

[Sesqui89]

You need to get a long bar and lever the hub downwards enough to get one bolt in.

Thanks, it's ok to force it downwards?

 

[Sesqui89]

Both wheels jacked up?

Yup, up on axle stands

 

[Sesqui89]

This.

I got someone to push down on the hub until I could slide a screwdriver into one of the holes, and then used the screwdriver to lever the strut so that I could get a bolt in the other hole.

Oh and make sure both front wheels are off the ground

Thanks for the advice, it's probably around 10-15mm off of lining up at the moment, does that sound about right?

 

[Daniel]

Thanks, it's ok to force it downwards?

Yep.

Unless you've got 6-8 inches a miss, you'll be fine! Lol

It's hard to explain but I use a trolley jack handle (had it years for jobs like this) under the bottom of the subframe and over the top of the wishbone. Put your body weight on it with one arm, use your other arm to slide a bolt in.
For some reason I always put the bottom bolt in first.

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

Thanks for the advice, it's probably around 10-15mm off of lining up at the moment, does that sound about right?

Yeah sounds about right mate

 

[masekwm]

Thanks, it's ok to force it downwards?

Yup, just lever it against the subframe and it'll move down so you can get the bolts in, with pressure off the arb it shouldn't be too hard.

 

[Sesqui89]

Thanks chaps, was preparing myself for a bashing for missing something blindingly obvious but it turns out you're a friendly bunch! Much obliged :smile:

 

[Rubicon_]

I had the same issue mate was scratching my head for a bit, as above just used a bar and screw driver for the hole.

 

[Cub.]

Thanks chaps, was preparing myself for a bashing for missing something blindingly obvious but it turns out you're a friendly bunch! Much obliged :smile:

We all need to start to learn somewhere

I remember before joining here about 4 years ago all I could do was change a wheel...

 

[Budgie]

We all need to start to learn somewhere :smile:

I remember before joining here about 4 years ago all I could do was change a wheel...

I'm yet to see any evidence of improvement.

( ;

 

[Cub.]

I'm yet to see any evidence of improvement.

( ;

It is called the art of delegation. I could do it. But why bother when I have a Budgie?

 

[Paul.M]

Did you use spring compresors when swapping topmounts? I'm about to go through the same process and I'm sure I've read somewhere they aren't needed on the sports but I thought I would ask.

On a side note it's good to see another frome chap on here, I'm originally from Frome myself and I'm still down there quite regularly visiting family

 

[Budgie]

100% no need for spring compressors on a 1*2

 

[Sesqui89]

Did you use spring compresors when swapping topmounts? I'm about to go through the same process and I'm sure I've read somewhere they aren't needed on the sports but I thought I would ask.

On a side note it's good to see another frome chap on here, I'm originally from Frome myself and I'm still down there quite regularly visiting family :smile:

Nope. I was unsure myself thinking a coil spring was going to end up embedded in my leg at any moment but they're not under any tension so as everybody says, you absolutely do not require compressors!

I'll have to keep an eye out for your motor! I'm originally from the delightful town of Melksham and lived in Trowbridge for a while also but made the move across the border last year. To be honest I haven't spent a great deal of time in Frome town itself as I'm away a lot at weekends but it does seem like a very nice place! :smile:

 

[Sesqui89]

Just following on from this:
Had my tracking done a few weeks ago as the steering wheel wasn't sitting anywhere near straight.
I've since replaced all the shocks (thanks for the help) and standard springs with cooksport ones so ~30mm lower and had new tyres fitted. Had the tracking checked again today and the garage have told me it's still spot on. Does that sound legit? I was assuming changing that many things would at least throw it out by a bit!

 

[Budgie]

Nope. Entirely believable.