F*ck. How should I proceed?

[deadmau5]

I tried to fit some 15(16?)mm front spacers yesterday. Bolt on hub centric. I attached the spacer to the hub okay but my standard wheel nuts were too long. I only discovered this when I snapped a wheel bolt by over tightening it. Due to the pressure applied against the hub by the over tightened nut, the spacer sits proud by about 1mm. I tried to remove the hub bolts but they rounded almost instantly.

I tried drilling the Allen key bolts but I only got so far before I just couldn't drill any further. I couldn't get anywhere near enough purchase with the stud extractor kit (left hand thread things)

Any ideas?
I

 

[MarkX]

I bought my car with a bolt sheared of in the front hub. Drilled it and used an easy out (extractor) which also sheared off inside the bolt!!!!!!! Ended up welding a nut on it and winding it out, utter pita

 

[Rob]

Buy a front hub from a breakers, don't be so silly ever again

 

[Matt e]

Depending how far you are from a garage or someone with a welder. Stick a bolt about the same size has the hole and weld the bolt to it and undo it like that

 

[deadmau5]

I guess I will have to try and find a mobile welder tomorrow...

I had heard of needing longer wheelbolts for spacers but never shorter!

 

[deadmau5]

What's the process for removing the front hub nut? Mine will not budge. The wheel on the other side is spinning on the floor!

 

[STEVE.M]

What's the process for removing the front hub nut? Mine will not budge. The wheel on the other side is spinning on the floor!

.

Get someone to stand on the brake pedal.

 

[Steven103]

Front hub nut - put the car back on the ground so that you've got best part of 3300 newtons helping you, then crack the hub nut off with a large breaker bar, then once you're happy it's only ratchet tight jack it up again before undoing it any further.

 

[GCC]

Front hub nut - put the car back on the ground so that you've got best part of 3300 newtons helping you, then crack the hub nut off with a large breaker bar, then once you're happy it's only ratchet tight jack it up again before undoing it any further.

^^this.
Only way I've ever known to do it...

 

[Ian_s]

I'd carry on drilling out the spacer bolts. Once that's done the sheared bolt will wind out the spacer and there will be plenty enough thread on the spacer bolts to get mole grips on.

 

[deadmau5]

.

Get someone to stand on the brake pedal.

D'uh! Thanks, worked a treat

Tried to remove the track rod end, loosened the top bolt then tried to lock the bolt with an Allen key except the top was fucked so couldn't I get any purchase. Tried to hacksaw it and my Irwin hacksaw blade has blunted.

I'm getting ready to set the c*nting thing on fire now :banghead:

 

[deadmau5]

^^this.
Only way I've ever known to do it...

If I could put the car back on the ground I wouldn't have a problem

The brake pedal method worked.

 

[GCC]

If I could put the car back on the ground I wouldn't have a problem

The brake pedal method worked.

Oh yea, of course, no way to put the wheel on lol
Sorry for my stupid contribution, I'll learn to read next time lol

 

[deadmau5]

I'd carry on drilling out the spacer bolts. Once that's done the sheared bolt will wind out the spacer and there will be plenty enough thread on the spacer bolts to get mole grips on.

I'm going to buy a cobalt drill bit tomorrow. I think Machine Mart do a 10.5mm one.

 

[Knuckles]

Get some easy outs aldi have them for £6 atm

 

[deadmau5]

I've got some. They aren't heavy duty enough and the threads were just rounding.

Cheers anyway.

 

[SkidMarx]

Wherebouts are you?

 

[deadmau5]

Wherebouts are you?

I'm in Plymouth, near the centre. Are you willing to travel?

 

[SkidMarx]

I would If you were local mate, Im in derby.

I take it you have tried removing the spacer from the hub, then removing the snapped bolt? If theres tension on the snapped bolt because its pressing against the hub then you'll never get it off. If its not damaged the thread then it might wind out with your fingers.

If you cant get it out with an easy out, Id weld a 19mm nut to it.

 

[STEVE.M]

Wherebouts are you?

Up s**t creek without a paddle.:evil:

 

[STEVE.M]

D'uh! Thanks, worked a treat

Tried to remove the track rod end, loosened the top bolt then tried to lock the bolt with an Allen key except the top was f**ked so couldn't I get any purchase. Tried to hacksaw it and my Irwin hacksaw blade has blunted.

I'm getting ready to set the c*nting thing on fire now :banghead:

Lets analyse whats going on here.You`ve fitted your 15mm spacer and attempted to refit the road wheel with the original bolts?The 10mm thread on the original bolts is not long enough,and the bolt has bottomed out on the spacer on the 10.5mm shoulder of the bolt and sheared.
You need to remove the excess 0.5mm that is holding the spacer to the hub with a drill,you will probably need to work your way up from a 3mm drill bit pilot.This should release any pressure on the spacer,and you can then undo the 6mm tapered locating grub screw with a centre punch and replace it.
With regards to the track rod end,you have cracked the taper joint,and the nut wont come off as it just spins the joint?Either put a jack under the joint and attempt to do the nut back up.Or if the taper will not reseat,get the angle grinder onto the nut and split the nut.
Then replace the track rod end with a new one.You will then need to get the tracking done.

Finally,which is where you should have started,get some longer bolts with extended threads,or better still,a stud and nut conversion.Good luck with it. :cheers:

 

[STEVE.M]

I'm going to buy a cobalt drill bit tomorrow. I think Machine Mart do a 10.5mm one.

Correction to my previous post.Wheel bolts are 12mm,so you will want a 12.5 drill to remove the shoulder.Sorry I read this and jumped to the conclusion that bolts were 10mm.

 

[deadmau5]

Cheers for the offer Mark!

Thank you Steve, I'll try and get one of those. Not quite right with your analysis. As the the spacers are bolt on, I tried to use the original wheel bolts to bolt the wheel to the spacer. The issue is that the wheel bolts were too long so they hit the hub on the other side and were sticking out too far to secure the wheel tightly. I didn't know this so kept tightening... banghead The standard wheel bolts are about 3-4mm too long for 15mm spacers I would guess.

I've bought a new Lemforder track rod end, only £14.something from ECP.

 

[STEVE.M]

Cheers for the offer Mark!

Thank you Steve, I'll try and get one of those. Not quite right with your analysis. As the the spacers are bolt on, I tried to use the original wheel bolts to bolt the wheel to the spacer. The issue is that the wheel bolts were too long so they hit the hub on the other side and were sticking out too far to secure the wheel tightly. I didn't know this so kept tightening... banghead The standard wheel bolts are about 3-4mm too long for 15mm spacers I would guess.

I've bought a new Lemforder track rod end, only £14.something from ECP.

This is totally confusing me.That do mean by "the spacers are bolt on" and "bolt the wheel to the spacer"?
As your pictures were head on,I thought the spacer was already on the hub.
Can you do us a picture of the spacer please?What make are they and where did you get them?
In the mean time,I`ll go and measure a standard bolt.

 

[jackaleks]

Get an old Allen key that's 1mm too big and hammer it into your Allen bolts. When I say hammer, I mean big lump hammer and smash the Allen key in so it's press fitted. This is a tried and tested method of nicking wheels with locking nuts.

Take the Allen bolts out then your spacer should come off. Proceed to throw the spacer in the bin because the threads are probably minced.

Also, from now on remember to test fit fixings for length.

 

[deadmau5]

This is totally confusing me.That do mean by "the spacers are bolt on" and "bolt the wheel to the spacer"?
As your pictures were head on,I thought the spacer was already on the hub.
Can you do us a picture of the spacer please?What make are they and where did you get them?
In the mean time,I`ll go and measure a standard bolt.

The bolts with the red dots are the bolts that hold the spacer to the hub. The bolt with the blue dot is the wheel bolt that has snapped. The wheel bolt is poking out of the other side of the spacer by about 1mm and poking out of the front by about .5mm.

I'm not sure of the make. I bought them off a guy on here a few months back and the advert is gone now.

I can get another picture when I get home.

 

[STEVE.M]

This is totally confusing me.That do mean by "the spacers are bolt on" and "bolt the wheel to the spacer"?
As your pictures were head on,I thought the spacer was already on the hub.
Can you do us a picture of the spacer please?What make are they and where did you get them?
In the mean time,I`ll go and measure a standard bolt.

Right,I`v done a bit of research.The 15/16 mm spacers do NOT bolt to the hubl.The only ones that do are 25mm or more.With 15 mm spacer it would mean you only have 15mm of thread to hold the wheel on,no thanks.
My standard bolt has 22mm of thread length,but the hub looks like it would stand a slightly longer one.
You need 19mm spanner size 12mm x 1.5 thread size,with at least 37mm of thread,with 60 degree seat x 12(quantity)plus 4 corrosponding locking bolts.
Remove the grub screw with a centre punch or as Jackalecs suggested,Remove the brake caliper and tie it up,dont let it hang by the hose,and see if the disc will tap off.If there is a shoulder of the bolt holding it on still,you will have to drill it off as previously discussed.
Once the disc is removed,the bolt may be only finger tight,or come out with mole grips.If all else fails,replace disc and caliper,refit the wheel with 3 bolts and drive carefully to your nearest competent garage.
Your spacer may have 8 holes in it,as it is probably double drilled with 2 PCD`s,so it can be used on something other than a clio.Please still post that pic though.Good luck

 

[STEVE.M]

View attachment 113264

The bolts with the red dots are the bolts that hold the spacer to the hub. The bolt with the blue dot is the wheel bolt that has snapped. The wheel bolt is poking out of the other side of the spacer by about 1mm and poking out of the front by about .5mm.

I'm not sure of the make. I bought them off a guy on here a few months back and the advert is gone now.

I can get another picture when I get home.

OK,sorry for the confusion,not sure if that was my fault.Finally got the picture.Drill the heads off the red bolts,remove the spacer.IF the broken wheel bolt will not come out,just grind it flat.Get hold of longer wheel bolts,and mount the spacer through the 4 holes the red bolts are in.These spacers are really dodgy anyway,with so little thread to hold the wheel on.It would have been so much easier in the flesh.

 

[deadmau5]

Thanks again Steve.

Good idea on grinding the trapped bolt flat.

I'm going to buy a cobalt drill bit tonight. I'll let you know how I get on (aka come back on here after something else has broken and thus requiring more advice...).

 

[deadmau5]

What size drill bit should I use for drilling the rest of the two bolts out? 10mm? I'll get a 13mm for doing the heads/shoulders.

 

[SkidMarx]

Did you read my post about removing the spacer first??

 

[Matt e]

Did you read my post about removing the spacer first??

he cant i dont think, as the bolt he's trying to remove goes from the spacer to the hub

 

[STEVE.M]

What size drill bit should I use for drilling the rest of the two bolts out? 10mm? I'll get a 13mm for doing the heads/shoulders.

12.5 OR 13 MM,once you take the heads off the red bolts,which look like their made of cheese metal anyway.the spacer should pull off easyly,and the remains come out with mole grips hopefully.
What`s your drill chuck size?may need to get a drill bit with a reduction?
Also,there are only 2 red bolts fitted,is this because you successfully removed the other 2?

 

[deadmau5]

12.5 OR 13 MM,once you take the heads off the red bolts,which look like their made of cheese metal anyway.the spacer should pull off easyly,and the remains come out with mole grips hopefully.
What`s your drill chuck size?may need to get a drill bit with a reduction?
Also,there are only 2 red bolts fitted,is this because you successfully removed the other 2?

Yeah, the other two came out fine because there was no pressure on them.

Drill chuck goes up to 13mm. I've got 10 and 12mm cobalt bits. I've made some progress but I seem to have stalled. You can see on the one with the blue edge how hot it has got but it won't seem to go any further. That one has been drilled about half an inch with a steel drill bit but now the cobalt is struggling...

 

[STEVE.M]

Yeah, the other two came out fine because there was no pressure on them.

Drill chuck goes up to 13mm. I've got 10 and 12mm cobalt bits. I've made some progress but I seem to have stalled. You can see on the one with the blue edge how hot it has got but it won't seem to go any further. That one has been drilled about half an inch with a steel drill bit but now the cobalt is struggling...

View attachment 113273
View attachment 113274
View attachment 113275

We are not trying to drill out the length of the red bolts,just need to take the heads off.Get a 13mm drill bit and attack at a slow speed with plenty of pressure.If you can get a LH one and run the drill counter clockwise it could be a bonus,but not essential.
Can you put up a pic of one of the red allen bolts you have so I can see how deep you have to go.

 

[deadmau5]

Cheers Steve. I'm going to have another go tonight. If I can't do it, I'm going to take the hub off and take it to a garage or metal workers.

 

[deadmau5]

Cba drilling anymore. Thank god the abs cable had a break point half way because the head on the screw on the sensor rounded. I'll drop it off somewhere tomorrow and hopefully refit everything tomorrow.

 

[BoatNonce]

Top engineering tip: Swear at it profusely.

 

[deadmau5]

Quoted £30, ended up £50 because it took longer. Glad I didn't persevere with it!

Anyone want to buy a single 15mm spacer? (requires shorter wheel bolts)