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Does all this audio equipment go together well ?



  172
Hertz is good stuff personally i would go for a cheaper/less powerful amp for the front and go for a more powerful amp for the sub. IMO it will sound nice as the sub is 700rms so to feed it 3-500wrms is seriously under powering it. It will want about 700-1krms for it to sound good. Also will you be running your sub in sealed or ported. Make sure you get the right size box. If you dont mind using second hand the TA is the best place to buy stuff and its usually newish and not abused.
 
Equivalence ration stratification is easily achievable through direct injection timing and this does offer the possibility of a fast response system.

i would say that to run them speakers and sub you would need much bigger amp or 2 separate amps.

The components are rated at 150 rms and i think that will be at 4ohm i could be wrong there is not much description on the spec for them hi energy.

Just because they are rated at 150rms does not mean you have to run them at that all the time. But I would say if you was dead set on them speakers then I would look at getting an amp that can give them 150rms or at least 90% or that , this would give the amp some head room at most normal listening levels.

as for the sub 700rms duel voice coil at 4 ohm , that you can wire parralel so your amp gets a 2 ohm load so then just need to look for a mono block that can give you something like 700 rms at 2 ohm. if you use the 250 rms from the 5 channel it would be underpowered, you may only end up using 250 400 from the 700w mono block but again the amp will be delivering clean power and have head room so it can hit the peaks of the sound tracks if it needs to.

If I was you i would maybe consider looking at the focal range of speakers , check out the frequency response graphs you will see that even the access range is very good and not far off the high energy so you could save some money get just as good sq and maybe even get some rear coaxial to go with them.
 
  vaux cavalier

Depends entirely on how you plan installing & using it....

If your simply going to fit it & play it at loud levels then my response would be....NO....

If your actually going to install it with quality in mind, (MDF Baffles, Deadened & Sealed Door Cavities, Custom Built Door pods, A-Pillar mounted tweeters correctly mounted & aimed etc etc), with an emphasis on a balanced low volume quality orientated sound then I would say....YES....

So, my advice, If your after output then select more power, (Larger Amps), if your after a slightly louder than stock system which oozes warmth & quality, then go ahead....If you don't feel your able to distinguish between this kit & a cheaper brand, then maybe the cheaper option is for you....

Hertz is good stuff personally i would go for a cheaper/less powerful amp for the front and go for a more powerful amp for the sub. IMO it will sound nice as the sub is 700rms so to feed it 3-500wrms is seriously under powering it. It will want about 700-1krms for it to sound good. Also will you be running your sub in sealed or ported. Make sure you get the right size box. If you dont mind using second hand the TA is the best place to buy stuff and its usually newish and not abused.

From this statement one could assume that by turning the volume down, (reducing input power), the sub would lose output quality....

You should really state;

Due to lowish amplifier output, the tendency for novices is to increase the 'Gain/Sensitivity' control on the amplifier to compensate for low volume....Unfortunately this will force the amplifier into outputting a 'clipped' signal....This 'clipping' has 2 main drawbacks, firstly, it promotes excessive heat within the amplifier, along with the speaker voice coils, (in laymans terms the coil switches from being a 'motor force' to being a 'heater element'), & it also introduces distortion due to the extended period the speakers cone spends at full excursion....

Less power isn't an issue, provided the user understands that less power equates to less volume....

Without getting to techy, if you plan on playing mainly music, then selecting an amplifier at or below a given speakers rated power will simply result in the speaker never achieving full output....

If you plan on playing tones recorded at 0dB then the speaker may achieve its rated output assuming you can maintain voltage within the amp....

A 150w rms speaker will play no louder than a 90w rms speaker if they;
A, Are both driven using the same amplifier....
B, Both have similar sensitivity....

Going on a bit now....Sorry....
 
I would agree with wallop , and if you are intrested in good quality at lower levels ( normal listening levels) , have a look on talk audio for posts on SQ subs as i believe you can pick up relatively good sq subs that are not rated so high in tems of rms but will give good sq at a lower price.
 
  Golf TDI
its all getting fitted at a audio place near me . decided on a hertz ep4 amp , not with them components with some focals and maybe that sub . going in monday for sound deadening and fitting the components
 

Struggler

ClioSport Club Member
  Ph1 track 172
have you thought of looking at a sub with lower wattage but higher sensitivity??
im sure you could find one with that kind of dollar!

if not just make sure you leave gain knobs well alone, just because you have an impressive sub, doesnt mean you can give it everything, over gain even the smallest of amps into clip and they will pickle your subs internals,

and due to the tones the sub makes, its often very hard to hear when a subs clipping.
make sure whoever set it up use a scope,

will still give a lovely rich sound if its set up properly.

what wiring you planning on using??
id use 0awg if you want that amp to perform to its best.
and replace all the stock audio wiring in the car,

'a chain is only as strong as its weakest link'

very true statement for car audio, dont cut back anywhere or you might as well have bought halfrauds own! may even be worth getting a bigger battery to keep the amp running at a high voltage.
 


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