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dCi Brake upgrade
- Thread starter DazJ
- Start date
Meg R26 + Mk4 GTTDI
Im sure they could handle a dozen extra horsepower
Clio 182
Friend had 65 chipped and BMW FMIC and had around 95hp.
BMW M4; S1000 RR
Standard brakes are more than adequate. How often do you do emergency stops?
E-stops are not the problem
.... if he starts playing around with his car, on twisty road the first thing that will go will be the breaks....4 pot brembo from peujot 406 is a winner
you could even had, front caliper from Citroen BX at the rear and you will have a fast relaible DCI
:approve:
BMW M4; S1000 RR
E-stops are not the problem
4 pot brembo from peujot 406 is a winner
you could even had, front caliper from Citroen BX at the rear and you will have a fast relaible DCI
:approve:
LOL Never had a problem with mine on race tracks but someone's going to get brake fade on a country road with 100hp? ok..
iimushroomzii
Toilet roll king
Transit Connect.
Get decent pads and discs ( for standard calipers) decent intercooler, then a remap.
It all depends how you drive, how you use you brake, literally what your driver skill will let you pull out of the car…
I can guarantee you that on some of the roads where I live, 4minutes and the brake of a lighten 172 are gone… pedal on the floor type of heat…
Concerning the track… on my early driver stage, I had massive fading with yellow stuff at 180 kmh , mostly cause by me staying to long on the track, but still….
I’m a heavy foot Kind of driver and carbon Loraine pads were my answers…they‘ve solve all my problems, I could stay on the track indefinitely with no fading and an incredible braking power..
But it came with a cost, I replace my rear disk every 2000 kilometers, my font every 4000, and rims are beyond cleaning as melted iron particle get on the varnish under breaking…
For sure he will get away with, let say Brembo max disk with, yellow or red stuff pad but, I was proposing an easy alternative to get really good breaking and still use normal everyday pad…
Anyhow I got confuse for a moment…. And actually you’re right…
The only thing that bug me in a set up were you cant upgrade the rear end (DCI < 100hp = no disk at the rear end) is if you upgrade the front in anyway and pray that your OEM electronic brake bias will do its job properly with an unbalance front/rear set up… it might be surprising sometime…. Surprising, because breaking distances sometime are even longer with a wrong balance between front/rear…. For sure you feel that you have breaks who bites better but that does not mean anything when you want to reduce braking distances…
Change of opinion!!! keep OEM disk linked with red stuff pad in the front and you should be ok to deal with the extra bit of horsepower you will get….
I can guarantee you that on some of the roads where I live, 4minutes and the brake of a lighten 172 are gone… pedal on the floor type of heat…
Concerning the track… on my early driver stage, I had massive fading with yellow stuff at 180 kmh , mostly cause by me staying to long on the track, but still….
I’m a heavy foot Kind of driver and carbon Loraine pads were my answers…they‘ve solve all my problems, I could stay on the track indefinitely with no fading and an incredible braking power..
But it came with a cost, I replace my rear disk every 2000 kilometers, my font every 4000, and rims are beyond cleaning as melted iron particle get on the varnish under breaking…
For sure he will get away with, let say Brembo max disk with, yellow or red stuff pad but, I was proposing an easy alternative to get really good breaking and still use normal everyday pad…
Anyhow I got confuse for a moment…. And actually you’re right…
The only thing that bug me in a set up were you cant upgrade the rear end (DCI < 100hp = no disk at the rear end) is if you upgrade the front in anyway and pray that your OEM electronic brake bias will do its job properly with an unbalance front/rear set up… it might be surprising sometime…. Surprising, because breaking distances sometime are even longer with a wrong balance between front/rear…. For sure you feel that you have breaks who bites better but that does not mean anything when you want to reduce braking distances…
Change of opinion!!! keep OEM disk linked with red stuff pad in the front and you should be ok to deal with the extra bit of horsepower you will get….
