Changing front calipers

[LeeRS]

Hi Guys,

I’m going to be changing the front calipers tomorrow as upon inspection, the rubber seals have perished on around the pistons.

I’ve got everything stripped back to change the discs / pads at the same time and new RBF to bleed through once conplete.

My question is, how am I best to take the old caliper off and fit the new without losing all of the fluid in the lines.

I’ve read about the pump needing to be sorted with clip of it does run dry so want to avoid this at all costs.

To note, I have braided lines if this makes a difference to any advice you may have.

Any tips/tricks are welcomed so this can go as smoothly as possible.

Also changing rear discs and pads at the same time so will be a full brake system refresh.
The retaining clips on the rear pads I am not looking forward to as these seem tricky?

 

[JamesBryan]

Fronts are easy mate.

Seeing as you have braided lines, hopefully the fitting at the caliper will spin, allowing you to undo it easily enough, failing that just crack it loose and spin the caliper around holding the line still.

You won't lose much fluid, it basically just drips out so you'll have plenty of time.

Take pictures of the rear pad fitting clips to remind you of how they go. You should be able to wind the pistons back with the shank of a screwdriver in the groove of the piston if you haven't got a wind back tool.

Just remember to line the piston groove up with the dimple on the inner pad, and also check the caliper slides in and out on it's slider pins.

 

[Mr Underhill]

As above and remember to push the pistons all the way in on your new calipers, so you don’t have to do it once connected up.

These are also worth buying for future swaps.

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/m10x1-female-blanking-cap

Brass M10 x 1 Male Blanking Plug

Undrilled fitting for plugging off M10 x 1 female unions.

www.carbuilder.com

You don’t have to rush then.

 

[JamesBryan]

As above and remember to push the pistons all the way in on your new calipers, so you don’t have to do it once connected up.

These are also worth buying for future swaps.

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/m10x1-female-blanking-cap

Brass M10 x 1 Male Blanking Plug

Undrilled fitting for plugging off M10 x 1 female unions.

www.carbuilder.com

You don’t have to rush then.

Yeah they come in handy, I have the male and female ones from them.

 

[Gus]

As above and remember to push the pistons all the way in on your new calipers, so you don’t have to do it once connected up.

These are also worth buying for future swaps.

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/m10x1-female-blanking-cap

Brass M10 x 1 Male Blanking Plug

Undrilled fitting for plugging off M10 x 1 female unions.

www.carbuilder.com

You don’t have to rush then.

I wish Id have had some of those when I did my brakes. Are they really M10 though?

 

[JamesBryan]

I wish Id have had some of those when I did my brakes. Are they really M10 though?

Yeah

 

[clio_ross]

Also, before you start, depress the brake pedal with a baton of wood or similar and wedge it between the seat and the pedal to keep the pedal depressed whilst you work. The pedal doesn’t have to be all the way to the floor; the aim is just to apply some pressure.

This will ensure the piston in the master cylinder is past the ports and minimise fluid loss and potential to draw air back into the system whilst you work.

 

[Advikaz]

Spray up all the fixings well prior. Seen loads snap/ disintegrate when you try and get them off

 

[LeeRS]

All went well with the front calipers and rear pads.

Couldn’t get the hub nuts off with a breaker bar or impact gun which I borrowed from a mate so had to call it a day at that.

Are there any impact guns out there you recommend as I’m going to need one because it makes jobs like this so much quicker.