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Camber settings



ripp

ClioSport Club Member
  182 FFAT
1 degree negative is ok though, will be better for tyre wear if you do a decent amount of motorway journeys. however that was one of the reasons I didn't wanted coilovers with built in camber adjustment. I had my camber bolts on the std shocks and already knew they will give me the desired angle
 
Yeah it's the cup pack with the 60mm hole spacing. Car is handling a lot better, just waiting for the weather to pick up to start messing with the arch linen to stop it rubbing =)
 

Struggler

ClioSport Club Member
  Ph1 track 172
sorry if im going off course, but i didnt really want to start a new thread on this,

is camber measured as the degrees over all, asin, if you have 1.5 degrees of negative camber either side, is that a total of 3degrees negative??

im asking because while testing a set up today, with 1.75degrees (decimal) of negative camber either side, the reduction of ground contact caused the brakes to lock up very easily!! could anything else have caused this??

using continental sc3/4 tyres, m1155 pads and brembo HC's.
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
No not usually added together.

You have now lessened the contact patch from tyre to road,so yes you will suffer from brakes locking.

Not a simple science, as you have now found out.
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
sorry if im going off course, but i didnt really want to start a new thread on this,

is camber measured as the degrees over all, asin, if you have 1.5 degrees of negative camber either side, is that a total of 3degrees negative??

im asking because while testing a set up today, with 1.75degrees (decimal) of negative camber either side, the reduction of ground contact caused the brakes to lock up very easily!! could anything else have caused this??

using continental sc3/4 tyres, m1155 pads and brembo HC's.

I run 2.5 degrees negative camber up front and have never experienced any lock ups from reduced contact patch tbh......did you have the steering geometry reset when you altered the camber?? Thats the only time i've experienced the entire car feeling absolute garbage due to the tracking being out.
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
I run 2.5 degrees negative camber up front and have never experienced any lock ups from reduced contact patch tbh......did you have the steering geometry reset when you altered the camber?? Thats the only time i've experienced the entire car feeling absolute garbage due to the tracking being out.

Go faster. ;)
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Touring cars should remove their brakes to save weight as with the amount of camber those guys run their brakes cant work at all going by tony's comments, lol
 

ripp

ClioSport Club Member
  182 FFAT
Yeah it's the cup pack with the 60mm hole spacing. Car is handling a lot better, just waiting for the weather to pick up to start messing with the arch linen to stop it rubbing =)
I did some work on the arches but now I found out that I'm gonna have to cut some of the metal under the arches as the wheel lightly rubs on it too
I also have a thread on how I did the arches if you're interested mate
 
  Lionel Richie
incorrect sam, and stop posting our figures otherwise "someone" will nick that and call it thier own too ;)
 
  182/RS2/ Turbo/Mk1
Everything is a trade off.

Indeed, all about trial and error and finding what works best for your driving style and your car. Personally I like to rely as much on caster to introduce camber as you turn in as the setup of the car will allow me (most fwd hatchbacks are quite hard to get extra caster onto), and then only use static camber when I have to.


My comment is not made up.it's fact.

Apologies if you thought I was implying otherwise, wasnt my intention, im sure you are just commenting accurately on your experiences.
Sorry if you thought my reply a bit flippant but I was just giving an example of cars which do manage well on the brakes with a lot of camber as how you worded it really did make it sound like it would always be a bad thing braking wise to have even a couple of degrees of camber where as I doubt most people just doing trackdays would really notice it and when some people in racing thrive on it.

Im also sure your opinions as a racer are that things most of us would consider hardly having effected anything have from your point of view made a massive difference as invariably in close racing the odd tenth of a second a lap feels like a huge deal, where as on a trackday you dont even notice it.
Likewise on a trackday generally if a car brakes slightly worse but feels more stable through a bend it will be perceived as improved where as in racing if that means you got outbraked into the bend its not a good thing at all and it doesnt help that you could now potentially corner very slightly quicker if the person who outbroke you is in your way.
Very different disciplines im sure.
 
So, to re cap the faster you are going before you start to r****d ones forward motion, the harder you can push r****d pedal before overcoming the COF and then fully retarding ones self with the unlimited Armco that's available at the side of most tracks.

Of course the slower you are going and applying the same retardation forces will see the COF reached earlier as we all know every action has and equal and opposite reaction, though not on a Tuesday for some reason.

Glad that's all cleared up then.
 
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