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BIGASH/FF-Racing X85 Clio Cup Racer Project



Donington race entry sent off and sorted :)

It's been an expensive week sourcing all the bits required so get the car back together, as per my usual attitude I didn't want to compromise and where I have had issues I've wanted to understand why it's happened and stop it from happening again which has meant some changes have been made. Money was looking tight after that to get the car entered for Donington but one of my very good friends (Porkie) has very kindly paid my entry for Donington which means I can now manage to race. A massive thank you to him as it means so much to me that he would do that for me and allowing me to be out there for the final race so now just got to hope I get a good result to make it worthwhile :) He is such a generous guy and I certainly won't be forgetting this!

As said a few pages back this is going to be my last race in the car probably for quite a few years unfortunately so lets hope I can go out on a high! As said before I will not be selling car and if anything I will keep developing it as and when I can afford to. The plan for next year is to rent the car out for track, test or race days and fully support the car. The car has come on leaps and bounds over the last year and it is now pretty competitive, I carry a wide range of spares so normally the car can run pretty faultlessly and it is meticulously maintained. If anyone is interested in racing the car next year or even just hiring it for a trackday please get in touch. It won't be cheap but it's a car that should see drivers racing at the front of the field in Tintops or French Trophy (Or any other series for that matter)

Thanks
James
 

shiftspark

ClioSport Club Member
  R53 GR86
Great news that you will be out again, with the amount of effort you put in I cant see you not racing it for very long.

(Now you just need to weld up the dampers and I can run it in the standard class next year :race:)
 
Had a few hours this afternoon and wanted to learn about the JC5 so took my knackered one apart

file_zps7750ac44.jpg


Had a few issues with the selectors but other than that not too bad. The diff does seem quite stiff in the bearings. Does anyone know the big nut size so I can remove the diff? I have bought a 182 gearbox so I am planning on getting that built up by gripper themselves over winter and then after Donington I will choose which box I prefer and stick with that one and sell the other I think :)

I am going to try and get the engine stripped down tomorrow and get it ready for the bits arriving early next week! It's certainly going to be tight for time and doesn't help i'm working 6 days next week and the one after!
 
  Chase Racing Clio
James, what made you decide not to race the car then? Surely once you've got passed some of these little issues it's just a case of racing and no more money spent on developing the car?
 
I think it is 50mm (that was on a laguna box though so could be different). The one I bought was too wide to get into the recess though. Not solved that issue yet but may just thin the socket with my grinder lol.
 
  clio cup
Yes, it's 50mm, you'll need a deep socket and may need to grind the outside of the socket down to slip into the recess,
When building mine, it's not the diff that's the issue as its not sandwiched between the casings, it just sits it the bearing, just make sure to torque setting is right.
The issue is when changing the ratios as to achieve this the crown wheel and pinion need to be changed, only way to do this is to machine a new main shaft. This shaft is sandwiched between the casings with a bearing each end, too much load on these bearings will cause issues with heat and wear!
There wasn't a shim available from Renault thin enough to get my box right so after measuring the end float and taking the shim and my measurement to a very good engineer it was machined down with consideration to expansion of casing and mainshaft.

James, taking the box apart is the easy job. Wait till you put it back together. A few swear words will thrown around then along with all your tools! Lol

Any questions mate, give me a call or message

Oh. And I still haven't seen anyone explain pre load. Lol
 
I plan on buying a spare gearbox to nick the CWP out of to send to quaife - and I was planning on stripping it down for the same reason you have. I've never stripped a gearbox and I'm eager to see how they work :)
 
James, what made you decide not to race the car then? Surely once you've got passed some of these little issues it's just a case of racing and no more money spent on developing the car?
Money :( Currently i'm living day to day off my wage and everything for the car is being spent from savings which will run out over winter so I just physically don't have the money to be able to race unfortunately. It seems a shame to have a competitive car sat there so thats why i'm thinking of renting it out.
Yes, it's 50mm, you'll need a deep socket and may need to grind the outside of the socket down to slip into the recess,
When building mine, it's not the diff that's the issue as its not sandwiched between the casings, it just sits it the bearing, just make sure to torque setting is right.
The issue is when changing the ratios as to achieve this the crown wheel and pinion need to be changed, only way to do this is to machine a new main shaft. This shaft is sandwiched between the casings with a bearing each end, too much load on these bearings will cause issues with heat and wear!
There wasn't a shim available from Renault thin enough to get my box right so after measuring the end float and taking the shim and my measurement to a very good engineer it was machined down with consideration to expansion of casing and mainshaft.

James, taking the box apart is the easy job. Wait till you put it back together. A few swear words will thrown around then along with all your tools! Lol

Any questions mate, give me a call or message

Oh. And I still haven't seen anyone explain pre load. Lol
That would explain the issues then as I couldn't understand how the diff itself where it is bolted in could cause my issues. I presume the main shaft is the one that goes out of the main casing and has 5th gear bolted onto the end of it (The one with the pinion at the end)?

Thankfully Dave I am just taking it apart and not having to put it back together lol Thanks for the offer though :)
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
I plan on buying a spare gearbox to nick the CWP out of to send to quaife - and I was planning on stripping it down for the same reason you have. I've never stripped a gearbox and I'm eager to see how they work :)

I thought that you shouldn't mix cwp from box to box, as they wear differently.
 
  clio cup
Its ok to swap Crown wheel and pinion into another casing but I would not mix a crown wheel with a pinion from another box.

The JC5 box is probably most complex selector wise, Everything else is pretty much standard engineering through manufacturers.


Main shaft is the one fith gear bolts onto, below that bearing you see in your pic james is a shim, As you bolt the casings together this is where you will find pressure build up, too tight and it will cause issues with heat,

My worries would be that Agency have tightend the casing bolts up not to torque but keeping some free play in the shaft, hence why they came loose.

Mind your hands, as the gear edges are very very sharp!
 
  clio cup
FYI

Below is a pic of how I measured the end float, fit mainshaft into casing with out shim, lift mainshaft with pliers and adjust measuremnt plate so it touches the end of the mainshaft, Drop the mainshaft and measure the gap with feeler gauges, repeat five times, make a note of all measurements and take the average,
Your engineer will then need his knowledge and experience to machine a shim to the correct size.

1F0ADE79-C758-4DF5-B39A-06481E889666-1934-0000024939E1DF80_zps38e53316.jpg
 
Yes the selectors were a pig! And yes I cut my hands twice on the gears lol :)

Thanks for the explanation Dave now I understand it! The main shaft was quite hard to turn so maybe that was the problem
 
Spent most of the afternoon stripping the engine down. 2 headbolts sheared so ended up having to drill them out :(

hazy3apa.jpg

3ave6ezy.jpg


I thought it was a broken ringland on one of the pistons but it turns out they were all okay. What it was though is it seems the pistons have been slapping around in the bores as there is scoring and a polished area in the bores. Which obviously stops the rings from sealing as effectively.

ehymunuz.jpg

eguserar.jpg


Then found a decent size chunk of metal in the oil pick up which was worrying but can't for the life of me see where it's come from

u2ypavyr.jpg


This puts a spanner in the works as the plan was to do a quick glaze bust and chuck a set of 82.7mm pistons with new rings. I have got another engine at Fred's which he is going to check for me and Chip has also very kindly offered a block so hopefully we can get sorted out :)
 
I'd strongly recommend going oversize to get the correct clearance, new pistons/rings in old bores with just a hone is a bodge, it will almost always end with early wear and short life expectancy.
 
I'd strongly recommend going oversize to get the correct clearance, new pistons/rings in old bores with just a hone is a bodge, it will almost always end with early wear and short life expectancy.
Yes Sandy I agree but this is just a solution to get me out for Donington and then over winter an engine will be getting built when we have time for machining etc :)

Obviously that block is no use for a quick hone so I need to find a very good block otherwise as you say its a bit pointless.

What causes that then? The bores in my original 140k engine looked fine.
I'm not too sure myself I guess its the high rpm and mine somehow saw 8200rpm at Oulton on the test day
 
  Megane r26
Yes Sandy I agree but this is just a solution to get me out for Donington and then over winter an engine will be getting built when we have time for machining etc :)

Obviously that block is no use for a quick hone so I need to find a very good block otherwise as you say its a bit pointless.


I'm not too sure myself I guess its the high rpm and mine somehow saw 8200rpm at Oulton on the test day

Marc saw 8k on the way home lol
 


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