Search results

If you are getting a strong smell of fuel the injector is more than likely working. I would be looking at the coil pack and leads, you will probably find cheap parts were used

All i can think of is, Badly worn bushes on rear axle A coil of the spring broken off lowering the ride height on one side Buckled wheel, have you hit any kerbs as the OZ wheels are prone to buckle I would take the car to a workshop with a pit (so you can get under the car with wheels on the...

Is there a spacer on the other side ? Is the arch liner fitted correctly ? Have you had new wheels or tyres fitted ? Can you see where the wheel has been touching, this will give an indication as to whether it is a ride height problem or something to do with the spacers.

The bracket the goes from the gearbox to dogbone bush, check the two bolts that hold the bracket to the box. I had a similar knock that would only happen when backing off at higher revs. Very annoying !!

There is an flimsy shield (exhaust shield i think) that bolts to the n/s/r with the exhaust mounting bracket. I have had issues with this rubbing on mine. I also have the same issue on a trackday and turned out the tyre had delaminated causing the tyre to be out of shape, unlikely but worth...

Rear shocks, took me a while but made a huge difference once done !

I have had exactly the same problem last couple of months. Ended up not starting at all last week. I got the spare key out and it fired up straight away meaning my key is knackered. Do you have a spare key you can try ?

Would anyone know the internal differences between the megane 165 (F4RT 776) and the Megane 225 (F4RT 774) engines. Thanks

Yes you are definitely missing a bolt, the stud has come out with the nut. You can put from what i can see an M8x1.25 bolt in that hole with a washer similar size to the one on the opposite side. The cable looks like an earth cable. I would check the cable with a test light if you are really...

Matt, Is the engine turning over or are you getting nothing at all ? If it is turning over, is the little red immobiliser light flashing ?

There is a rubber grommet with a plastic mesh filter attached to it that the pump pushes into, remove the grommet from the reservoir and you will notice (more than likely) a big bogey hanging off it..... Give it a clean and if you can, blast out the reservoir while you are in there to avoid it...

I would go with this, i had this problem when i first got my Clio. Plus it will not cost you a penny to try it out !

Was the clockspring a new part from Renault ? It can still be faulty if it is genuine, live data can confirm the steering angle sensor is working. Alternatively it could be a cracked ABS ring

Get some negative camber on the front. I put 1.5 - 2 degrees neg camber and solved my problems. Helps out a lot on track too. You can machine the top hole of the hub to shock mounting point and take it to a decent wheel alignment shop who can get it right for you.

Next time it makes the noise, rest your foot on the clutch pedal to see if the noise changes tone or goes away. I had the same problem on my Clio and was the clutch release bearing. The bearing was noisy until i drove the car and it warmed up a bit.

Take it to another garage, by the way the engine is behaving it sounds like the timing it out.

I totally agree. The thing is if they were competent technicians they should find a misfire problem within an hour. To save them screwing you over for 10 hours labour of fault finding, it may be worth taking it to a Renault specialist to diagnose the problem as a back up just incase they do try...

If you are getting a ticking noise the garage can not turn around and say there is nothing wrong ?! A simple cylinder leakage test would have shown if there were any mechanical issues with the engine. If that test came back ok then it will be a plug, lead, coil pack or a fuel injector. That is...

If only everything was that easy.

Its for the other people that havent had this problem......... yet. Was the kit you had fitted genuine ?

Come across this kit on ebay, genuine drive belt, idler and tensioner. Item number 190655682776 Would highly recommend changing them if you havent recently

Sounds unlikely to be a fuse, but worth checking. When you say you removed the CD changer wire, was it just a wire or part of a loom ?

I understand looking at the coil pack if there is hesitation at higher revs/load but you will be getting a richer mixture with a faulty coil due to unburnt fuel. I would start by looking at the MAP or TPS sensors. Has the fuel pressure been monitored when the fault occurs ?

Did you buy the suspension? Looks very similar to the budget ones on ebay. I have fitted these for a few people and had the same complaints.

I run a workshop in Acton, west London, we are a small back street garage building a good reputation in and around the area, http://www.facebook.com/pages/Churchill-Automotive/120349834717782 We have a few projects on the go, prep cars for track days and take part ourselves. I have a phase 1...

Should be straight forward, two bolts at the front of the pipe and a sleeve joint at the back. No need to remove a beam or bumper

I would start by checking the coil spring (could be broken) or the strut top bearing

That's interesting..... Maybe it's not the driveshaft. I reckon you should start by having a look out for a broken anti roll bar link or spring. Does it make the noise when stationary at all ?

Did you buy it new ? If so i would be getting it back to the shop you got it from. It sounds as though the inner joint may be noisy, there is nothing else i can think of that would be making that kind of noise. Just a few questions: Does the noise change in tone when you turn on lock? Does...

Has it been making the noise since the drive shaft has been replaced ?