Twin 40 webers

[PaulRobo]

ill get some pics of the 40s up in the next few days, i have some trumpets to, and like i said the filter and top part for the k&ns. Askin about £120 for em, as i paid £130 a few months agom but decided not to use em.

 

[BenR]

ok, keep me in mind!

And capt.....i dont use thakery!!! them cups and rubbers for me.

oh, and i need to post a pics of a aux venturi which has been in a fire!....as it turns out, not bashed by a hammer...hehe.

 

[BenR]

Oh capt!!

are you getting my emails? no reply to about 5 of them......

 

[Rasclart]

I recently owned a Nova GTE on twin 40s.

It was fast and sound ace but the fuel consumption was absolutely sh*t. They had to be tuned and setup quite regurlay to get the best performance out off.

Were a pain in the ass in the winter and are quite lumpy. Although I was running with Cams.

Stick with Injection

 

[helfire]

Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 04 November 2002


what was your X-flow in?

Let me see if i can remember.

Kent 244 cam double valve springs

High lift alloy roller rockers(looked well nice)

Fully chambered race head (of a formula ford i think)

stainles steel valves and bronze guides

Twin 45 weaber carbs, kn filters. Twin red top fuel pumps.

4-1 single box exhorst system

Flat top BDA pistons

Lightened and balenced crank and con rods, all toughrided Cosworth bolts

Lightened flywheel triple dowled.

Ajustable double timing gear.

High capacity and presure oil pump and cooler.

Thinks thats about it. Built it all myself when i used to work as an engineer. If i remember it was putting out around 150bhp. Would only pull from around 4000 up to 8000. And was extreamly loud. Mated it to a strait cut gear box and lsd. Would only do 120, but got there quick.

 

[bondy]

iv had lots of dealings with these blasted webbers dont get me wrong they are great and the noise too try mangoletsi for your inlet manifold

 

[BenR]

Quote: Originally posted by helfire on 28 November 2002

Quote: Originally posted by BenR on 04 November 2002


what was your X-flow in?

Let me see if i can remember.

Kent 244 cam double valve springs

High lift alloy roller rockers(looked well nice)

Fully chambered race head (of a formula ford i think)

stainles steel valves and bronze guides

Twin 45 weaber carbs, kn filters. Twin red top fuel pumps.

4-1 single box exhorst system

Flat top BDA pistons

Lightened and balenced crank and con rods, all toughrided Cosworth bolts

Lightened flywheel triple dowled.

Ajustable double timing gear.

High capacity and presure oil pump and cooler.

Thinks thats about it. Built it all myself when i used to work as an engineer. If i remember it was putting out around 150bhp. Would only pull from around 4000 up to 8000. And was extreamly loud. Mated it to a strait cut gear box and lsd. Would only do 120, but got there quick.

were on the same track then.....lovely.

ive got a flat head as its on a MK1 XR2 and they have a shorter head & block on them. But 41.3 inlets and 37 exhausts, DVS, titan std 1.56:1 rollet tipped rockers, bronze guides blah blah blah.

all on teh std block at the mo as im building a 1700 block for after chrimbo. should have 1300 HC pistons (i cant afford accralite yet), L&B everything, tuftrided, thinking about nitrided......but im hoping the crank will hold up to 8000-8500rpm.

one thing though is cam choice, im not too sure if i should ge the 234 or 244.......i really love when a cam comes on and top power is teh type i like as i used to race strokers and they didnt work below 11,000rpm. BUT, i dont know if i could live with no power below 4000rpm round town. is it that bad? if so i think ill go for the 234 as itll only loose a few bhp at the top.

suggestions?

Ta mate

 

[helfire]

Yeh mine was a bored out 1600 to 1700, i got the flat top BDA pistons by mistake should of got lotus twin cam ones, as the bda ones went almost to the tops of the cylinders. So my phase 4 flat top head was no good, lukly my friend gave me the chambered race head for free. I used to use the kent 23 cam and that started to pull from around 3-4000. As for the crank i would not go over 8000 on a std crank as it might let go on you, i used to change up at around 7500 so had a bit of room for a late shift. But best run the cosworth con rod bolts and maybe a steel fan belt pully aswell as they can let go on you. Tripple dowel the flywheel is its all apart and get it skimmed up. tuftriding is real cheap, its just getting a place to do it for you. You will need to get the crang re- polished afterwards and balenced. Use vandervell bearings and a high capacity and presure oil pump.

I used to drive mine on the road and it was not to bad just loud, but it was fun trunderling along a 30 mph and getting some young dick heads in astras try to race you, just drop down a gear or two and dump the clutch and boot it, left them standing with jaws droped. Those were the days.

Thinking of getting my gti-r modded up to 270-300bhp now to have the fun i used to to with the rally car.

 

[helfire]

Get the motoring news as this has loads of parts for sale in the back. You prolly know this , but just in case.

 

[Scott R]

I had a carb conversion on my Pug 205 1.9 GTI last year and the noise and torque you managed to get from them were wicked!

Cost me about £750 for the full kit which included:-

Twin Dellorto 45 carbs, inlet manifold, fuel pressure regulators, and linkages.

Did drink fuel, but its all worth it. A lot cheaper than Throttle Bodies but do take some looking after!

The MOT should not be a problem. All I did was take the car to a carb specialist and he set and balanced the carbs. Emissions then passed!

 

[BenR]

Quote: Originally posted by helfire on 29 November 2002


Yeh mine was a bored out 1600 to 1700, i got the flat top BDA pistons by mistake should of got lotus twin cam ones, as the bda ones went almost to the tops of the cylinders. So my phase 4 flat top head was no good, lukly my friend gave me the chambered race head for free. I used to use the kent 23 cam and that started to pull from around 3-4000. As for the crank i would not go over 8000 on a std crank as it might let go on you, i used to change up at around 7500 so had a bit of room for a late shift. But best run the cosworth con rod bolts and maybe a steel fan belt pully aswell as they can let go on you. Tripple dowel the flywheel is its all apart and get it skimmed up. tuftriding is real cheap, its just getting a place to do it for you. You will need to get the crang re- polished afterwards and balenced. Use vandervell bearings and a high capacity and presure oil pump.

I used to drive mine on the road and it was not to bad just loud, but it was fun trunderling along a 30 mph and getting some young dick heads in astras try to race you, just drop down a gear or two and dump the clutch and boot it, left them standing with jaws droped. Those were the days.

Thinking of getting my gti-r modded up to 270-300bhp now to have the fun i used to to with the rally car.

Thing is the kent lives on RPM, and so do i.......i love rpm..the more the merrier.....but 7500 is fine for now.....as a steel items is a bit wacko on the pricing...but its got leccy fan so a steel front pulley is all i need for anciliaries, although the item on the fezzy is stronger than on inline kents.

Still cant decide on the 234 or 244......argh......i will need to get my valve pockets amchined deeper ofr the 234 if i do, so ill go with the 234 first i think...then build up another better head.

oh, and i would be using ARP bolts all over anyways....no probs there.

i saw a fezzy with a 1700 all ateel item and it had 152bhp @ the wheels....8500rpm!!! must rip, and should have a good 170-180bhp at the crank.......

would love the webber gold setup on it alter though...yummy

 

[bondy]

if any of you guys want kent cams stuff get in touch phatnova24@hotmail.com

 

[BenR]

how much for a 234 and 244?

as they are already dead cheap from burtons....at 90 odd quid.