This post of mine should have been "stuck" first time around, pehaps an admin will do it now. Please?
These are the recommended grades for standard cars in a normal road use situation. If this does not apply to you because the car is modded or used on the track than read my comments.
Petrol
Clio 1.2i 1991-00 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio II 1.2,-16V (43/55kW) 2000 on 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio II 1.2 LPG (43kW) 2001 on 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio 1.4i 1991-00 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio II 1.4 16V (72kW) 2000 on 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio 1.6i 1998-00 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio 1.6i 16V 1999-00 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio II 1.6 16V (79kW) 2000 on 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio 1.8, RSi, -Baccara 1991-97 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio 1.8 16V 1991-00 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio 2.0 16V, -Williams 1993-00 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio II 2.0 16V (124kW) 2000 on 5w-40 or 10w-40
Clio II 3.0 V6 2000 on 5w-40 or 10w-40
Diesel
Clio II 1.5 dCi (48/60/74kW) 2000 on 10w-40
Clio 1.9 Diesel 1991-00 10w-40
Clio II 1.9 dTi 2000-02 10w-40
So, thats the basics but now it gets a bit complicated.
Which viscosity should I use? 5w-40 or 10w-40?
Pretty much all 10w-40s are semi-synthetics (petroleum based) and although they provide adequate protection for your standard car they are cheap to buy and therefore do not last as long. If you choose to go this route then it will not cost much but you will need to change your oil every 3000 miles as the oil loses viscosity very quickly. Always look for API SL!
There are fully synthetic 10w-40 oils on the market (non-petroleum based) which are made in laboratories by chemists using mainly PAO (poly alpha olefins) or ESTERS which are superior lubricants to their petroleum brothers but they cost more. They do however have a lifespan in the engine of 3 to 4 times longer so 9000-12000 miles between changes.
5w-40 is generally a safer bet quality-wise as to meet this rating they need to pour at -30degC. A petroleum oil alone is unable to do this so some "synthetic" basestock (normally PAO) needs to be added to make the oil pass the API tests.
There is however a difference in quality between various 5w-40s and generally its only identifyable by the price - Yes you get what you pay for!
You see there is a difference between a 5w-40 that uses 10% synthetic and 90% petroleum basestocks to meet spec and a 5w-40 that is 100% synthetic and this will be reflected in cost as synthetics are expensive.
The 100% synthetic is a superior oil in all respects as it doesnt have the constraints of a petroleum based oil and all the impurities. It will also be more stable at temperatures which means it stays in grade for longer.
All that explained, if you are running a non-standard car or using it for track days etc then the only way to go is 100% synthetic oil.
Dont use a thicker oil, just use a better oil! The advantage of using a 100% synthetic oil is that you can still use a low viscosity oil (5w-40) as it is capable of handling higher temperatures (around 120degC+) without losing viscosity and also it will give better fuel economy and BHP at the wheel opposed to a thicker oil (15w-50, 10w-60 etc) where the engine can lose power as its having to pump a thicker oil around. Of course the thicker the oil the more friction and therefore heat which long term causes wear.
PLEASE NOTE******************
If you are running excessive temperatures or need prices or indeed further advice, its best to email me as this forum gives no notifications of replies and I can respond immediately to you with my suggestions.
mailto:sales@opieoils.co.uk">sales@opieoils.co.uk or via my site: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/lubricants.htm
Cheers
Simon
[Edited by oilman on 05 July 2005 at 4:38pm]
